Full text of “Narrative of the expedition of an American squadron to the China Seas and Japan : performed in the years 1852, 1853, and 1854, under the command of Commodore M.C. Perry, United States Navy, by order of the Government of the United States“
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OAarinc 'Biob^ml Labcratoru Ubraru "VJoc^s 0(oU, Mmachuictts ^0YAQ£S ' 0? • (Exploration / -Im 4^; \Q Sfe •y> i.^&^^ --^■v:^ CoUcctcd ^M^C^B OliOMPSON MONTJOMERV iim-me) Thtkdeifhm urchttut, mphcW of Ihomas Jiarnson MontQomcru {1815-1912), (MBL wmtt^dtor, and Trwilla '3rmUn fMont^cmcru (1874- 19^6), MBL libranan. Q-jftpf tharsoni j(ugh {M.(mtg<»neri£, MfD. and 'J^aumtmd 'B. Montgcmeru — 1967. : 3- i o i 3- i a i ° : rn NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION OF AN AMERICAN SQUADRON TO THE CHINA SEAS AND JAPAN, PERFOEMED IN THE YEARS 1852, 1853, and 1854, UNDER THE COMMAND OP COMMODORE M, C. PERRY, UNITED STATES NAVY, BY ORDER OF THE GOVERNMENT OF THE UNITED STATES. COMPILED FROJI THE ORIGINAL NOTES AND JOURNALS OP COMMODORE PERRY AND EIS OFFICERS, AT HIS REQUEST, AND UNDER HIS SUPERVISION, By FRANCIS L. HAWKS, D. D. L. L. D. WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. PUBLISHED BY ORDER OF THE CONGRESS OF THE UNITED STATES. WASHINGTON: BEVERLEY TUCKER, SENATE PRINTER. 1856. PREFATORY NOTE. Prompted in a great degree by feelings of personal friendship for Commodore Perry, the compiler of the following pages yielded to his earnest request, enforced as it was by that of other friends, and consented to undertake the task of preparing this Narrative of the United States' Expedition to Japan. And here it is proper to mention, that among the expressed motives which induced the Commander of the Expedition to desire the execution of the work by other hands than hia own, none seemed more prominent than this consideration : that, as the facts here embodied were to be gathered not merely from the pages of his own journal, but from those also of several of his officers, as well as from their official reports to him, he thought it better to confide the compilation to a disinterested third party, who might weave the various mate- rials into a connected narrative of all the important events, uninfluenced by that partiality for his own words or acts, from which, owing to the infirmities of human nature, the most honest and best of men are not always entirely exempt. As the sole object on the part of the Commander was to afford to his government and countrymen the most ample account he could of what had been done by himself, his officers, and men — as in this respect he had nothing to conceal, as he wished to present truly all of interest that had been observed either by himself or others, and to do justice to the deserving officers who had so efiectually sustained him in .his plans for carrying out a new, delicate, and arduous work — he deemed it best to place in the hands of the compiler, without reserve, all the materials in his possession, whether from his own pen, or furnished by the labor of others, and to request nothing more than that the preparation of the work might be conducted in a spirit conformable to the ends and wishes just expressed. The materials were abundant and varied. Beside the manuscript journal of the Commo- dore, in three large folios, and his official correspondence ; the journals of his secretary and other officers, the diaries of the fleet captain and flag-lieutenants, the official reports of gentlemen detailed for special duties, and the public documents connected with the Expe- IV PEEFATORY NOTE. dition, were all placed ia the hands of the writer. Of these, the Commodore's journal and official correspondence form much the larger part.* The work to be performed was that of a compiler merely. With no responsibility as to the facts related, the writer believed his appropriate duty to be simply to weave into a connected narrative all of interest or importance that could be gathered from these various materials, and to present, in chronological order, the incidents of the Expedition. Eminently suggestive, as were many portions of the story, the compiler felt that it was his business to deal with the facts only, and spare the reader the infliction of his reflections on them. The book, therefore, is but little encumbered with the writer's observations or conjectures on the incidents related. Where a momentary digression from the story does occur, the remarks it embodies are generally those of the Commodore himself. In many instances, the language of the Narrative is a verbatim copy from his journal. Wherever it was possible thus to use his manuscript, it was done, as being the course most likely to avoid error. Every word of the work was read to the Commodore in manuscript, and received his correction before it went into the printer's hands ; every proof sheet also was read by him before it was sent back to the press. In order to expedite the preparation and publication of the work as much as possible, and place it, at an early period, in the hands of Con- gress, as the labor was that of compilation only, the present writer, with the approbation of Commodore Perry, availed himself of the kindness of a competent literary gentleman, f who assisted him in the work of comparing the various journals, documents, &c., arranging chronologically the incidents gathered from all sources, and presenting them in a connected form. Some portions of the story were also, in the first instance, sketched by this gentleman, and after undergoing the revision of the present writer, were incorporated by him into the Narrative, and then submitted to the Commodore for his corrections and suggestions. Some of the descriptions of scenery were thus prepared, as well as portions of the Narrative relating to the two vistis to Japan. By means of this valuable aid, the whole story was written out in less than a twelvemonth from the time its publication was ordered by Congress, a residt which would otherwise have been unattainable. The * The Commodore, unwilling to appropriate wliat may belong to others, desires here to acknowledge the use of the journals of the captain of the fleet, Commander Adams, of the flag-lieutenants, Mr. Contee and Mr. Bent, tliose of Purser Harris, Mr. Perry, (Commodore's secretary,) Mr. Bayard Taylor and Chaplain Jones ; the reports of Captains Abbot, Buchanan, and Adams, Commandants Boyle, Kelly, and Glasson, Chaplain Jones, Mr. Williams, Chinese interpreter, and Doctors Green and Fahs ; the services of Mr. Portman, Dutch interpreter, and of the artists, Mr. W. Heine and Mr. E. Brown, jr. In the hydrographical department he would specially acknowledge tlie accurate and laborious work of Lieutenants W. L. Maury and S. Bent. Nor would he pass by without notice minor contributions from any under his command ; to all he would render due credit and thanks. t Robert Tomes, Esq., M.D. PREFATORY NOTE, V compiler makes this statement, not only to acknowledge the kindness of a friend, but also to guard himself against the suspicion of being willing to appropriate, without recognition, the labors of another. As to the Narrative itself, the highest ambition of the writer was to tell the story, if he could, in such manner as would not only present a true picture, but also keep alive the interest of the reader ; his wish was to make a book that might furnish information without being wearisome. If in this he has succeeded, he has attained all to which he aspired. If he has not, he has only to say that he will feel more of regret than surprise. In some instances he may be thought to be needlessly minute, and especially in describing the pageantry of receptions, entertainments, &c. In this matter he felt obliged to consult something beside his own taste merely ; he was looking to the natural curiosity of his countrymen to know every particular of the story, and therefore preferred to tell too much rather than too little. Beside, the pageantry was often an important part of the history of the negotiation itself, with a people so ceremonious as the Japanese. Nor did the compiler hesitate to use freely the materials placed before him in the shape of journals, &c., even though the substance of some portions of them is already in the hands of the public. They were originally prepared for just such use as is here made of them ; the report was designed to tell the incidents of the whole story from beginning to end ; and the compiler was directed simply to use the materials that had been furnished him. It was not for him to omit facts because others had already related them. In but one respect did he venture to exercise any discretion. His duty required that he should tell all that occurred from the moment the Mississippi left the Capes of the Chesa- peake. As, however, the chief interest of the Expedition was to be found in events that occurred in China, Lew Chew, the Bonin Islands, and Japan, he endeavored to make as brief as duty would permit the incidents of the earlier part of the outward voyage, sensible that but little new remained to be said in passing over a track so often traversed and so well known by intelligent Europeans and Americans. Still he believes he has omitted nothing, which his materials furnished, that is likely to interest the general reader. Distance from the press has occasioned some typographical errors, which the intelligent reader will readily correct. for himself; there are probably other errors; for these the other duties of the compiler and the circumstances of his position will, he hopes, be accepted as an apology.* * This volume will be followed by three others, as soon as the labors of the government press can produce them. They are prepared. Appendix, vol. 1, will contain the Natural History and Illustrations, with various reports ; vol. 2 will embrace the Astronomical Observations; and vol. .3 the Hydrography of the Expedition. Vi AUTHENTICATION OF THE NARRATIVE, Tlie Narrative here presented of the Japan Expedition has been prepared under my supervision and at my request, from materials furnished by me, and is authentic. I present it as my official report^ and am alone responsible for the statement of facts it contains. M. C. PERRY, Late Commander-in-cJiief of the United States Expedition to the China Seas and Japan. New York, January 1, 1856. CONTENTS. Page. Ijjtkoduction 3 74 CHAPTER I. Probabilities of a successful mission from the United States to Japan. — Such a mission proposed to the Govern- ment by Commodore Perry. — Expedition resolved on. — Vessels selected for the squadron. — Vexatious delay in their equipment. — Commodore Perry sent in the Mississippi to the Gulf of St. Lawi-ence. — Applications of scientific men to join the expedition refused. — Causes of such refusal. — Dr. Von Siebold. — Visit of the President and Secretary of the Navy to Annapolis to take leave of the expedition. — Failure of the machinery of the steamship Princeton on the passage down Chesapeake Bay. — Substitution of steamer Powhatan in place of the Princeton. — Final departure of Commodore Perry on the mission with the Mississippi alone.. 75 — SO CHAPTER II. Voyage from the capes of the Chesapeake to Madeira. — View of the island. — Funchal. — Hospitality of the in- habitants. — Salubrity of the climate. — Exports of the island. — Novel mode of conveyance. — Departure from Madeira and arrival at the Canaries. — Early failure of northeast trades. — Extraordinary swell from the northwest. — General order as to private journals and communications to public prints. — General order as to scientific Investigations by officers. — The " Harmattan," consideration of hypotheses as to its origin. — Southeast trades. — Ship steered for St. Helena. — Observations on the currents. — Chaplain's observations on the zodiacal lights. — Ai-rival at St. Helena. — Description of the island. — Jamestown. — Longwood. — Tomb of Napoleon. — The calculating hospitality of the inhabitants of the island. — Adventure of Lieutenant . — Fortifications of the island. — Their sufficiency against sailing vessels. — Probable insufficiency against an approach fi-om the west by steam. — Departure from St. Helena 81 — 96 CHAPTER HI. Passage to the cape. — Fuel for steamers. — Table rock and Cape Town. — Description of Cape Town. — Climate. — Annoyance from dust. — Violence of winds and difficulty of holding to anchorage. — Supplies at the cape. — ■ Caft're war and its effects. — Mode of transporting produce on land. — Vineyards of Constantia. — Effects of emancipation of slaves on agricultural labor. — Mode of cultivating the vine. — Population of Cape Colony. — Bushmen. — Tlie Caffres. — Physical characteristics. — Fingoes. — Military organization of Caftres. — Condition of the emancipated slaves. — Departure from Table Bay. — Passage to, and arrival at, Mauritius. — Harbor of Port Louis. — Dangers of the harbor. — SkUl of port officers in mooring vessels 97 — 106 CHAPTER IV. Mauritius, its discovery. — Geological formation and physical aspect. — Production of sugar. — Effect on agricid- ture of the abolition of slavery. — Coolies. — Population of the island. — State of feeling between English and French residents. — Hospitable treatment of the expedition. — Description of Port Louis. — Grand Port. — Paul and Virginia. — Facts on which St. Pierre founded his story. — Tombs of Paul and Virginia, — Built by an eccenti-ic Frenchman. — Cyclones. — ^Their probable causes. — Interest felt in them at Mauritius. — Depart- ure of the Mississippi from Port Louis. — Her com-se thence to Point de Galle, island of Ceylon. — Reasons for taking it. — Point de Galle, description of. — Great rendezvous of steamers. — Difficulty of procuring fuel there. — American consul. — ^Thoughts on consular system. — Early knowledge of Ceylon. — Its several Euro- pean possessors. — Clima' j. — Salubrity. — Causes of its diminished prosperity. — Productions. — Value of cocoa- nut palm. — Pearl fishery. — Immense numbers of elephants. — Great slaughter of them. — Boa constrictor. — ■ Population of Ceylon. — Physique of Cingalese, Malabars, and Mahomedans in the island. — Religious con- dition. — Buddhism. — Pilgrimage to the temples. — Intercourse with a Siamese naval officer at Ceylon. — Commodore's letter to the second king of Siam. — Departure from Ceylon. — Passage through the Straits of Malacca. — Arrival at Singapore 107 — 124 VIU CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. Page, Singapore. — Its great commerce. — Population. — Rapid increase. — Hospitality of a wealthy Chinese merchant. — Importance of Singapore to England. — Coal depot at Smgapore. — Physical aspect of the country. — Agricul- tural products. — Animals. — Ferocity of the tiger. — "Water huffalo. — Passage from Singapore to Hong Kong. — Currents, rocks, tides. — Chinese fishing boats. — Airival at Hong Kong. — Finding there sloops-of-war Sara- toga and PljTnouth and store-ship Supply. — Susquehanna gone to Shanghai. — Disappointment of the Com- modore. — Condition and prosperity of Hong Kong. — Run to Macao, thence to "Whampoa on Canton river. — Navigation of the river. — First impressions made by the city. — Disappointed expectations. — Hospitality of American consul at Canton. — The hongs or factories. — Streets in Canton. — Proper name of the city. — Bocca Tigi-is. — Chinese forts. — Pirates on the river. — Attempt to rob one of the officers. — Canton market place. — Ti-ade of Canton -with Europe and America 125 — 138 CHAPTER VI. Hospitable treatment at Macao. — Usages of the foreign merchants toward visitors. — Depressed condition of Macao. — Description of the place. — Tanka boats, and girls who manage them. — Cave of Camoens. — De- parture of Mississippi from Macao. — Saratoga left to bring Mr. Williams, the interpreter. — Difficulties of navigation from Hong Kong to the mouth of Yang-tse-keang. — Entrance of the river dangerous. — Susque- hanna, Plymouth, and Supply all agroimd. — Mississippi saved by the power of her engines only. — Descrip- tion of Shanghai. — Its immense trade. — Cultivation of the country. — Population of the city. — Visit of the Commodore to the governor of the city. — Chinese rebellion. — Its effects. — Plymouth left at Shanghai to protect American interests. — Departure for Great Lew Chew. — Arrival of the squadron at the capital, Na- pha, the Saratoga having joined at the entrance to the harbor - - 139—150 CHAPTER VII. Number and position of islands of Lew Chew. — Their supposed political relations to Japan and China. — Descrip- tion of the island of Great Lew Chew, as seen on the first approach to it. — Visit of officials to the Susque- hanna. — Visit of Dr. Bettelheim. — Refusal of presents, and consequent mortification of the Lew Chewans. — Exploration of the island resolved on by the Commodore. — Daguerreotyping on shore. — Coral insect and its formations. — Second visit of the authorities of Lew Chew. — Regent of the island received by the Commo- dore, — Friendly nature of the interview. — Surprise of the Lew Chewans at sight of the steam-engine. — Commodore announces to them his intention of returning the visit at the palace of Shui. — Their e\'ident embarrassment thereat. — Leave to go on shore. — Description of Napha and its viciuity, by one of the offi- cers. — ^Exploring party sets out, placed under the command of the chaplain, Mr. Jones. — Mr. Bayard Taylor attached to it, with orders to take notes and furnish a detailed report of the journey. — Negotiations with the Lew Chew authorities to obtain a house on shore. — Tlieir manifest opposition. — Commodore persists and succeeds. — Officers, when on shore, continually watched by spies. — Captain Basil Hall's account of the Lew Chewans somewhat exaggerated. — Impressions made on the officers as to the character of the natives. — Hydrographic surveys. — Boat exercise of the crews, and drillmg on land of the marines 151 — 161 CHAPTER VIII. Report of an inland exploration of Great Lew Chew, by a party fi-om the squadron, under the command of Commodore Perry 1C2— 186 CHAPTER rs. Efforts of authorities of Lew Chew to prevent a visit to the palace. — All unsuccessful. — Landing for the visit. — Procession. — Appearance of the country. — Reception at the palace. — Embarrassment of the regent. — Enter- tainment at the regent's house. — Saki. — New dishes. — Commodore invites authorities to a dinner on board the Susquehanna. — General impressions produced by the visit. — Espionage still kept up. — Daily exercise of sailors and marines. — Settlement of accounts with Lew Chew authorities. — Mississippi and Supply remain at Lew Chew. — Susquehanna and Saratoga leave for the Bonin islands. — Death of an opium smoker on the passage. — Inhimianity of Chinese. — Sunday on board. — Arrival at Port Lloyd 187 — 19G CHAPTER X. Situation of Bonin islands. — First discovery of them. — Europeans have no claim as the discoverers. — Mixed character of present settlers. — External appearance of Peel island. — Geological formation. — Harbor of Port Lloyd. — Productions of the island, animal and vegetable. — Resort of whalers. — Condition of present in- habitants. — Commodore causes the island to be explored. — Reports of exploring parties. — Kanakas. — Ex- amination of Stapleton island, and report thereon. — Survey of harbor of Port Lloyd. — Land purchased for a coal depot. — Departure from Bonin islands on the return to Lew Chew. — Disappointment island.- — Its true position.— Borodinos. — Arrival at Napha 197 — 214 CONTENTS. IX Page. CHAPTER XI, Changes at Napha.^New regent. — Banquet on board of the Susquehanna. — Excessive dignity of the new re- gent. — Stateliness of Lew Chewans thawed out by the dinner. — Guests sent home. — Bamboo village. — In- terior of Lew Chew houses. — Men indolent. — Go.ssipping at Lew Chew. — Lew Chew loom. — Different classes of the people. — Their fear of spies. — Slavery of peasants. — Causes of degradation. — Excellence of agricul- tural cultivation. — Origin of population of Lew Chew. — Former kingdoms on the island. — Relation of Lew Chew to China and Japan, respectively. — Education in Lew Chew. — Religion of the inhabitants. — Christian mission in Lew Chew. — Distinctions of dress. — People sell themselves as slaves. — Clanship. — Coin in Lew Chew. — Sugar making. — Natural products of the island 215 — 227 CHAPTER Xn. Departure from Napha for Japan. — Course of the ships. — Oho-Sima. — Island seen by Commander Glynn, probably Oho-Sima. — Cleopatra islands. — Currents. — Fourth of July on board. — Approach to Cape Idzu. — Squadron, led by the Susquehanna, enters the bay of Yedo. — Rock island. — Hazy atmosphere of Japan. — Surprise of the Japanese at sight of the steamers moving against wind and tide. — Bay of Sagami. — Appearance of the coast and country inland. — Fu.si-Jama. — .Ships made ready for action. — Fleet of Japanese boats put off from the shore. — Left behind by squadron. — Bay of Uraga. — Opposite coast of Awa. — Japanese forts. — Squadron comes to anchor m the bay of Uraga. — Soundings on approaching the anchorage. — Japanese guard-boats put off. — No one permitted to come on board the ships. — Appearance of guard-boats and crews. — Skill of the Japanese in managing their boats. — Guard-boat comes alongside of the Mississippi, and Japanese functionary demands to come on board. — Not permitted. — Notice in the French language, ordering the ships away, held up to be read. — Interpreters directed to inform the Japanese that the Commodore would confer with no one but the highest official in Uraga. — Japanese replied that they had the vice governor on board. — This officer and his interpreter allowed to come on board the Susquehanna. — Not permitted to see the Commodore. — Conference with Lieutenant Contee, who explains that the Americans have come on a friendly mission, and that the Commodore bears a letter from the President of the United States to the ■Emperor. — Desires the appointment of an officer of suitable rank to receive it from the Commodore. — Commodore refuses to go to Nagasaki. — Informs the Japanese officials that if the guard-boats are not immediately removed he will disperse them by force. — The boats are withdrawn. — Vice governor returns to the shore, promising further communication on the morrow. — Policy resolved on by the Commodore. — • Meteorological phenomenon. — Visit on the next day from the governor of Uraga. — Conference between him and Commanders Buchanan and Adams. — Second refusal of the Commodore to go to Nagasaki. — Deter- mination expressed to deliver the letter there, and, if necessary, in the city of Tedo itself — Governor proposes to refer the matter to Yedo. — Commodore assents and allows three days for an answer. — Survey by the squadron's boats of the bay of Uraga, and ultimately of the bay of Tedo 228 — 242 CHAPTER Xni. Reply from the court at Yedo. — Efforts of the Japanese to get the squadron out of the bay of Yedo. — Commo- dore's firm refusal to leave Uraga. — Agreement of the Emperor to receive, through a commissioner, the President's letter. — High breeding of the Japanese gentlemen; not ill-informed. — Survey of the bay of Yedo. — Fogs of Japan. — Second visit from the governor of Uraga. — He brings a letter from the Emperor, authorizing a prince of the empire to receive, in his name, the President's letter. — Arrangements made for the Commodore's reception on shore to deliver the letter. — Minute attention of the Japanese to etiquette and ceremonials. — Preparations in the squadron for the visit on shore at the reception. — Ships brought near the land, so as to command the place of meeting. — Landing and reception, and delivery of the letter and other documents. — Princes of Idsu and Iwama. — Contents of President's letter. — Commodore's letter of credence, and liis letters to the Emperor. — Receipt given by the Japanese for the papers. — Return to the ships 243— 26r CHAPTER XIV. Concessions of the Japanese. — Relaxation of their restrictive laws. — Satisfaction of both Japanese and Americans at the result of the visit on shore and delivery of the President's letter. — Visit of Keyama Yezaimen to the ships. — Impudence of the interpreter Saboroske. — The squadron goes further up the bay towards the capital. — Policy of this movement. — Alarm of the Japanese gradually quieted. — Beautiful scenery up the bay. — Survey of the bay continued. — Conviviality on board. — Surveying boats enter a small river. — Cordial greeting of the inhabitants. — Crowd dispersed by a Japanese official. — Commodore transfers his pennant from the Susquehanna to the Mississippi. — The last-named vessel goes up in sight of the shipping place of Yedo. — Sinagawa. — Yedo about ten miles distant from the point where the ships turned about. — Good depth of water in Yedo bay, probably almost up to the city. — Tlic bay pretty thoroughly explored and CONTENTS, Page. sounded by the surveying parties. — Interchange of presents with the Japanese officers. — Avowed sorrow of Japanese officials on bidding farewell to the Americans. — Commodore's reasons for not waiting for a reply to the President's letter. — Leaves Tedo bay declaring his intention to return in the ensuing spring. — ^The Saratoga sent to Shanghai to look after American interests. — The Plymouth ordered to Lew Chew.— Oho-Sima. — Ships encounter a storm. — General results of the first visit of the squadron to the bay of Yedo. 2G'2^273 CHAPTER XV Amaliirima islands. — State of feeling in Lew Chew. — Commodore's measures for permanent arrangements with the authorities. — Coal depot. — Protest against espionage. — Trade in open market.— Letter to the regent. — • Interview with the regent — Entertainments of the Commodore. — During dinner the regent's answer Is brought. — Unsatisfactory to the Commodore. — ^Letter handed back to the regent, and the Commodore prepares to leave the house. — Informs the regent that he miift have a satisfivctory answer on the next day, otiierwise he will land and take possession of the palace at Shui and retain it until matters are adjusted. — Probable efi'ects of bunting up the old sedan cliair on shore — Commodore's propositions all accepted. — Coal depot built. — A'isit to the c.istle of Tima-Gusko. — Purchases in the bazaar. — Departure from Napba for China. — Plymouth left behind with orders to visit Bonin islands and make further surveys. — Captain Kelly's report of the visit and surveys. — Form of government and constitution of the settlers on Peel island. — General effect of this last visit to Lew Chew. — Arrival of the Vandalia ; of the Powhatan. — Overhauling of the vessels of the sq.uadron at Hong Kong 274 — 28$ CHAPTER XVI. Alarm of Americans in China. — Request to Commodore that he would send a ship to Canton. — Supply sent. — The rest of the squadron at Cum-sing-moon. — Hospital established and house taken at Macao. — Sickness in the squadron. — Work kept up in all departments, notwithstanding. — He;ilthines6 of Canton. — Gluttony of the Chinese. — Chinese servants- — C'hinese English, or "pigeon." — JIale dressmakers, chamber servants^ etc. — Chinese female feet. — Chinese guilds. — Beggars. — Charitable institutions. — Tlideves. — Boatmen. — Laboring classes. — Domestic servants. — Polygamy and its moral results. — Decadence of Macao. — Humbled condition of the Portuguese. — Harbor of Macoa. — Commodore establishes his depot for the squadron at Hong Kong. — Pleasant society of Macao- — Powhatan stationed at Whampoa to relieve the Susqueliarma. — Supply still at Canton. — Chinese peaceable towards foreigners. — Steamer "Queen" chartered to protect American interests in China while the squadron should go to Yedo. — Suspicions movements of Russians and French induce the Commodore to hasten his return to Japan. — Lexington arrives. — Tlie squadron ordered to rendezvous at Napha, Lew Chew. — Orders received, just as the- squackon leaves Cliina, to detach a steamer for the use of Mr. McL;i.ne, Ameriam Commissiorter to ChiiEi. — Embarrassment of the' Commodore in consequence. — HLs mode of proceeding to accomplish both the objects of the government. — Correspond- ence with Sir George Bonham touching the Bonin islands. — Courtesy of the English Admiral Pellew. — Squadron assembles at Naplui _ 287 — 3J8 CHAPTER XYII. Increased cordi;ility and friendly intercourse on the part of the Lew Chewans. — Second visit of the- Commodore- to the i>alace at Shui. ^Entertainment by the regent. — No metallic coin of Lew Chew to be obtained. — Eev. Mr. Jones' .second exploration in search of coal. — Finds it at Shah bay. — The mineral not valued by the natives. — Additional geological observations in Lew Chew. — ^Remarkable salubrity of the island. — Tenure of lands. — ^Agriculture. — Rice, potatoes, sugar, cotton, wheat, barley, millet, sago, beans, peas, tobacco, edible roots, fruits, trees, flowers, etc. — Sugar miills. — Grain mills and granaries. — Population. — Ethnology. — Costume. — Politeness of manner. — General intelligence. — Architecture. — Rude attempts in painting and sculpture. — Amusements. — Government. — Religion. — Fimeral rites. — Japtvuese spies in Lew Chew.— Departure for the bay of Y'edo - 309—329 CHAPTER XVm. letter from Dutch Ciovemor General of India announcing the death of the Japmese Emperor. — Commodore's reply. — Enumeration of the several objects in view. — Prospects of their attainment by the mission. — Officers and men left in Lew Chew. — Arrival of the Saratoga. — Run to Yedo bay. — Oho-Sima. — Cleopatra Lsles. — Mijako-Bima. — All belong to Lew Chew group. — Entrance of gulf or outer bay of Yedo. — Jajxinese charts of little value; made for nicre coasting. — ^Vintry aspect of Japan. — Macedonian aground. — Hauled off by the Mississippi. — Friendly offers of the Japanese to assist the Macedonian. — Squadron proceeds np the bay and anchors at the "American anchorage." — J.apanese officials come alongside. — Received by Captain Adams on the Powhatan, pursuant to the Commodore's orders. — Tliey attempt to prevail on the Commo- dore to return to Uraga, stating that the high Japanese functionaries were there awaiting his arrival, by appomtment of the Emperor. — Commodore declines on account of ssifety of the sliii^s. — Visit on the nex:* CONTENTS. Xi day from the; officials, wlio reiterate tlieir request, witli an assurauee that tlie commissioners were ordereil to receive tlie Commodore at Uraga with distiuguislietl cousideratiou. — Commodore again declines. — Japanese ask that an officer may be sent to Uraga to confer with the commissioners as to a place of meeting. — Commodore consents that Cai>tain Adams may hold such a conference, but that the commissioners must come there to hold it. — Japanese become alarmed as to tlie friendly feelings of the Americans. — Their fears allayed. — Survey of the baj' resumed without interruption by the Japanese. — Our boats forbidden by the Commodore to land. — Japanese persist for several days in desiring the Commodore to go to Uraga with the ships. — Commodore invariably refuses. — At length the Japanese are informed that the Commodore will allow Captain Adams to meet a commissioner on shore near the ships, or that he will proceed up the bay to Yedo. — Note from the commissioners to the Commodore. — His reply. — Captain Adams sent down to Uraga to communicate to the commissioners the Commodore's reasons for declining to take the ships to Uraga. — Some of the Japanese accompany him in the Vandalia. — Interview of Cai)tain Ailanis with the commissioners at Uraga. — Visit to Captain Adams fronr Yezaiman on board the Vandalia. — Assures Captain Adams of the friendly disposition of the Emperor. — Vandalia returns, and perceives ahe.id the squadron standing up the bay toward Yedo. — The Japanese no longer urge going to Uraga. but suddenly propose Yoku-Hama, where the ships then were, about eight miles from Yedo. — Commodore immediately assents. — Buildings constructed at Yoku-Hama. — A Japanese seaman in the squadron sends a letter to his family ashore, by Yezaiman. — Yezaiman desires an interview with him. — The interview. — Ceremonials settled as to the conferences on shore for negotiation 321 — 342 CHAPTER XIX. Ships anchored in Yoku-Hama bay so as to command the shore. — Kanagawa "treaty house." — Imperial barge. — Landing of the Commodore. — Description of the Jap.anese commissioners. — Interpreters. — Servility to superiors. — Negotiations commenced. — Commodore submits a copy of the treaty of the United States with China for consideration. — Death of one of_our men. — Commodore propo.ses to buy a burial ground for Americans. — Commissioners propose to send the body of the deceased to Nagasaki for interment. — Commo- dore refuses, aud proposes to bury the dead on Webster's island. — Commissioners consent to the interment at Yoku-Hama. — The burial by Chaplain Jones. — Interest of the Japanese in the ceremony. — They after- wards perform their own rites over the covered grave. — The Japanese build an enclosure around the spot. — Japanese artists attempt the portraits of our officers. — Answer to the President's letter. — Informal confer- ence between Captain Adams and Yenoske. — Landing and delivery of the presents. — Japanese workmen assist the Americans in preparing for their exhibition. — Negotiations continued. — Surprise and delight of the Japanese at the telegraph and railroad. — Curiosity of the Japanese in examining mechanism. — Passion for buttons. — Note-taking of everything strange to them — Love of pictures. — Drawings. — Common people disposed to social intercourse with the Americans. — Excitement on Chaplain Bittinger's attempt to reach Yedo by land. — Written reply of commissioners, declining to make a treaty like that of the United States with China. — Further negotiations. — Accuracy of the Japanese in noting all the discussions. — Ports of Simoda and Hakodadi agreed to, but with great difficulty on the part of the Japanese 343 — 365 CHAPTER XX. Cordiality between Japanese and Americans. — Presents from the Japanese. — Coins. — Singular custom of includ- ing rice, charcoal, aud dogs, in a royal Japanese present. — Japanese wrestlers. — Their immense size and strength. — Exhibition in the ring. — Contrast in the exhibition of the telegraph and locomotive. — Parade of the marines. — Ycno.ske visits the flag-ship, and seeks to draw the Commodore out. — Failure. — Entertain- ment of the Chinese commissioners on board the flag-ship. — Great cordiality. — Peformance on ship-board of "Ethiopian minstrels," to the great amusement of the Japanese. — Negotiations continued. —Japanese object to the immediate opening of the ports. — Finally concede the point to a certain extent. — Absolute and persistent refusal to allow Americans permanently to abide in Japan. — Reluctant consent, after much discussion, to allow one consul to reside at Simoda. — Treaty finally agreed on and signed. — Presents by Commodore to the commissioners, that to the chief being the American flag. — Entertainment of the Com- modore aud his officers by the commissioners. — Peculiarities of the mission to Japan. — ^Obstacles to making any treaty at all. — Disposition of the Japanese shown in the conferences. — Particular refusal to make a treaty allowing American families or females to live in Japan. — Analysis of the treaty. — Commodore care- ful to secure for the United States all privileges that might thereafter be granted by treaty to other nations. — Case of the American schooner Foote 3fi7— 392 CHAPTER XXI. Departure of Commander Adams for the United States, with the treaty. — Visits of the Commodore aud officers on shore. — Imperturbable composure of Yenoske when charged with falsehood. — Call upon the Mayor of Yoku-Hama. — The ladies of his household. — Disgusting fiishion of dyeing their teeth. — Use of rouge. — En- Xll CONTENTS. tertainment of the Commodore. — ^The Mayor's baby. — ^The common people very comfortable. — Field labors shared by the women. — Straw great-coat for rainy weather. — Paper umbrellas. — People not indisposed to intercourse with foreigners. — Respectful treatment of the female sex. — Japanese un-oriental in this re- spect. — Polygamy not practised. — Japanese women naturally good-looking. — Some strikingly handsome.— Girls have great vivacity, yet dignified and modest. — Social habits. — Visits. — Tea parties. — Squadron, after notice to the Japanese authorities, proceeds up the bay with some of the officials on board. — Powhatan and Mississippi go within sight of the capital. — Its immense size. — Sea front protected by high palisades. — - Change of Japanese policy on the second visit to Tedo. — All show of military resistance studiouslj' avoided. — The Commodore assures the Japanese officials that he will not anchor the steamers near the city, and, after a glance, at their request, returns. — Great joy of the officials thereat. — Preparations for departure. — Mace- donian ordered to Peel island. — Southampton, Supply, Vandalia, and Lexington sent to Simoda. — Webster island. — Departure of the Commodore for Simoda. — Harlx)r examined. — The town and adjacent country. — • Shops and dwellings. — Public baths. — Food. — Mode of cultivation. — Buddhist temples. — Grave-yards and tombs. — Statues of Buddha. — Offerings of flowers on the graves. — Epitaphs or inscriptions. — Charms for keeping away fom the dead malignant demons. — A temple appropriated for the occupancy of our officers. — A Sintoo temple. — -Mariner's temple. — Salubrity of Simoda. — Made an imperial city since the treaty 3U3 — 414 CHAPTEE XXn. Survey and description of the harbor of Simoda. — Discipline in the squadron. — Intercourse with the authorities of Simoda. — Kura-kawa-kahei, the prefect. — His disposition to produce trouble. — Treatment of the Ameri- can officers. — Eemonstrances of the Commodore. — Equivocation of the prefect. — He is frightened into pro- priety. — Efforts of two Japanese gentlemen clandestinely to leave their country in the squadron. — Commo- dore's conduct. — Buddhist temples at Simoda. — Prefect again shows bis petty hostility. — His prevarications and falsehoods. — ^Funeral of an American on shore. — ^Insult offered to American officers on shore. — Pre- fect's further falsehoods. — Compelled to apologize, and informed that his insolence would not be borne in future. — Friendly intercourse with the people. — Departure for Hakodadi. — Volcano of Oho-Sima. — Tlie Kuro-siwo, or Japanese " gulf stream. " — Straits of Sangar. — Fogs. — Harbor of Hakodadi. — Directions for entering - 415—432 CHAPTER XXHI. Visit from tlie authorities at Hakodadi. — Tlicir ignorance that a treaty had been made. — Visit to authorities and explanation of affiiirs to tlie Japanese. — Answer of the officials at Hakodadi. — Their friendliness and courtesy. — Visit-; and rambles of the Americans on shore. — Houses allotted for their temporary accommo- dation. — Description of Hakodadi. — Resemblance to Gibraltar. — Cleanliness of streets. — Pavements and sewers. — Division into districts under Ottonas. — Pack-horses used; no wheel-carriages. — ^Town very thriv- ing. — Buildings described. — Preparations against fires in the city. — Skill of carpenters and house-joiners. — Shops, their construction and goods. — Carvings in wood. — Furniture. — Cliairs and tables. — Fashion in eat- ing. — Tea, how prepared; fire for boiling the kettle. — Kitchens, stables, and gardens. — Fire-proof ware- houses. — Ti'affic at the shops. — Buddhist temples. — Grave-yards. — Praying by machinery. — Inscriptions on tombs. — Sintoo temples. — Shrines by the way-side. — Gateways on the roads. — Prospects for Christianity in Japan. — Weak military defences of Hakokadi. — Surrounding country. — Look-out for ships approaching. — Japanese telescope. — Geology of the country. — Mineral spring. — ^Natural cave. — Culinary vegetables. — Commerce and fisheries. — Japanese junks. — Ship-yards. — Few birds. — Fish abundant. — Wild quadrupeds. — ■ ■> Fox considered as the devil. — Horses much used. — Kagos. — Climate of Hakodadi. — PopiUation and physical characteristics of the people. — Ainos or hairy kuriles. — Mechanical skill of the Japanese. — Carpentry and masonry. — Coopers. — Iron ore workers. — Blacksmiths, their bellows. — Copper much used in junk building. — Spinning and weaving. — Dyed cottons. — Silk iiibrics. — Lacquered ware. — Printing, drawing, and paint- ing. — Sculpture. — Architecture. — General intelligence. — Information, derived through the Dutcli at Na- gasald, from European publications. — Japanese game of chess. — Cards. — Loto. — Ball and jackstraws among the children - 433 — 466 CHAPTER XXIV. Interview between the Commodore and the representative of the prince of Matsmai. — Southampton sent to ex- plore Volcano bay, including Endermo harbor. — Report of the survey- — Poverty of the region around the bay. — ^Eruption of a volcano at midnight. — Ainos. — Boundaries of Americans at Hakodadi left to be settled with the imperial commissioners. — Good understanding between the Americans and people of Hakodadi. — Japanese delighted with the exhibition of the "Ethiopian minstrels" on board ship. — Squadron theatricals. — Interest of Japanese in the machinery and fire-arms of the ships. — Answer of Hakodadi authorities to Commodore's inquiries as to European or American vessels wrecked in Japan during the last ten years. — Answer of the imperial commissioners to similar inquiries. — Macedonian sails for Simoda. — Vandalia des- CONTENTS. Xni Page, patched for China by the western passage. — Japanese officers desire a conference witli tlie Commodore. — Flag-lieutenant sent ashore to bring them on board. — Disrespectful conduct of the officers. — Flag-lieuten- ant returns without tliem. — Japanese officers finally come off in their own boat. — Not allowed to see the Commodore until they apologize for their behavior. — Apology accepted. — Conference results in nothing but a further illustration of Japanese finesse. — Burials of Americans at Hakodadi. — Respect shown for the ceremonies by the Japanese. — Buddhist priest performs his funeral ceremonies after the Americans retire. — Services in a Buddhist temple. — Japanese erect a fence around the American graves. — Sailor's epitaph com- posed by his shipmates. — Block of granite presented by the Japanese at Halcodadi for the Wasliington monument. — Volcano of Olio-Sima. — Arrival at Simoda. — Meeting with the commissioners. — Boundaries at Hakodadi settled. — Appointment of pilots and harbor-master agreed on. — Value of Japanese and Ameri- can money respectively fixed. — ^Additional regulations between the commissioners and Commodore agreed to and signed. — Coal supplied at Simoda. — Its comparative quality and value. — Cost of various articles furnished to the .ships. — Another block of stone for the Washington monument presented by the imperial commissioners at Simoda. — Japanese present of dogs to the President. — Sam Patch lias an interview with the officials of his country. — Refuses to go on shore or leave the ship. — Praiseworthy conduct of a marine towards Sam. — "Dan Ketch." — Japanese punishment of crucifixion. — Practice of the "Hari-kari" or "Hap- py-despatch." — Departure from Simoda. — Macedonian and supply sent to Formosa and Philippines. — Eed- field rocks. — Party sent on shore for observation of Oho-Sima. — Arrival at Lew Chew. — Southampton or- dered to Hong Kong. — Powliatan and Mississippi come to anchor at Napha 467 — 490 CHAPTER XXV. Preparations for final departure from the Japanese waters. — Macedonian and Supply ordered to Formosa. — In- structions to Captain Abbot, of the Macedonian, to toucli at the Philippines on his way from Formosa to China. — Mississippi, Powhatan, and Southampton proceed to Lew Chew. — State of affairs in Lew Chew. — Supposed murder of an American by Lew Chewans. — Trial of Lew Chewans for murder by their own au- thorities on the Commodore's demand. — Description of a Lew Chew court of justice. — Accused made to plead by punches in the ribs. — Accused convicted and In'ought to the Commodore for punishment. — He hands them over to their own authorities. — They are banished. — New Tear's customs. — Coal removed from the depot to the ships. — Compact or treaty made witli Lew Chew. — Present from the Lew Chewans to the Commodore. — A stoue for the Washington monument. — Eifort of a Japanese to come off in the squadron to the United States. — Parting entertainment to Lew Cliew authorities. — Departure of the squadron for China. — Macedonian's visit to Formosa. — Unavailing search for Americans supposed to have been wrecked on the island. — Explorations by Chaplain Jones for coal. — Found in abundance and of good quality. — Survey of the harbor of Kelung. — Lying and cunning of the Formosans. — Run to Manilla. — Very stormy passage. — Marine volcanoes in the neighborhood of Formosa. — Inquiries at Manilla into tlie murder of certain Americans. — Satisfactory conduct of the Spanish authorities in the matter. — Delivery by Captain Abbot to the Governor of six Sillibalioos that had been picked up at sea by Lieutenant Commanding Boyle, of the Southampton, floating in an open lioat. — Remarkable distance that they had drifted. — Physical appear- ance of the Sillibaboos. — Voyage of Macedonian to Hong Kong. — Captain Kelly's handling of tlie Chinese pirates and imperial troops; forces them to make reparation. — Chastisement of the Chinese by the joint action of the officers and men of the Plymouth and of those of her Britannic Majesty's ships Encounter and Grecian. — The Commodore, by leave from the Navy Department, turns over the command to Captain Abbot, and returns home by the overland route. — On the arrival of the Mississippi in New York, on the 23d of April, the Commodore repairs on board, and formally hauling down his flag, terminates the expedi- tion - - 491—508 SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. Commander Adams arrives in the United States witli the treatj'. — Submitted by the President and ratified by the Senate. — Commander Adams sent back with authority to exchange ratifications. — Arrives at Simoda after an absence of little more than nine months. — Altered aspect of the place from the effects of an earth- quake. — Japanese account of the calamity. — Loss of Russian ship-of-war Diana. — Russians make a treaty exactly like ours, with a substitution merely of Nagasalvi for Napha as one of the tliree ports. — French ship brings in two shipwrecked Japanese. — Authorities refuse to receive them except from under our flag, having no treaty with France. — Men taken on board the Powhatan, and then received by their country- men. — Energy of Japanese in rebuilding Simoda. — Freedom of intercourse with the people. — No more espionage. — Brisk traffic at the shops. — Delivery to Captain Adams of some religious tracts left at Simoda by Mr. Bittinger. — Japanese had learned to manage the locomotive, but not the telegraph. — Moryama Yenoske promoted. — Message from the commissioners to Commodore Perry. — Ratifications cxelianged 509 — 512 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. LITHOGRAPHS. PHgn. "Mississippi" passing Point Atristow Heine & Brown KI Loo Roclt and Pontinha, Madeira Heine & Brown 82 Fiinchal, Madeira, fiom the Curral Heine & Brown 84 Jamestown, St. Helena - Heine & Brown 90 Valley of the Tomb, near Longwood Heine & Brown 92 Longwood, from the gate - Heine & Brown 94 Cape Town and Table mountain - ..Heine & Brown 98 Mauritius, from the "Pouce" Heine & Brown 105 Hindoo ablutions, Mauritius - Heine & Brown 112 Light-house, Point de Galle, Ceylon Heine & Brown 114 Buddhist temple, Ceylon Heine & Brown 120 Eajah of Jahorc, Singapore — from life Brown 129 River Jnrong, Singapore Heine & Brown 130 View of Hong Kong from East Point ..Heine & Brown 1.3.3 Chinese temple, Hong Kong. Heine & Brown 134 Whampoa Pagoda and anchorage Heine & Brown 135 Fish market. Canton .Heine 138 Chinese temple, Macao Heine 144 Chief magistrate, Napha — from a daguerreotype Brown 155 Street in Napha, Lew Chew Heine _ 156 Napha, from Bamboo village Heine 164 Ancient castle, Nagagusko, Lew Chew Heine & Brown 170 Village near Napha, Iiew Chew Heine & Brown 173 Ancient castle, Nagagusko, Lew Chew Heine & Brown 174 Lew Chew exploring party. Heine & BRO^VN 176 Tshandicoosah, Lew Chew Heine & Brown ^^. 182 Bridge and causeway, Machinatoo, Lew Chew Heine & Brown 184 Commodore Perry's visit to Shui, Lew Chew. Heine 189 Reception at the castle, Shui, Lew Chew Heine 190 Dinner at the Regent's, Lew Chew Heine 191 Court interpreter. Shin, Lew Chew — from a daguerreotype Brown ,. 192 Temple at Tumai, Lew Chew Heine & Brown 194 Kanaka village, Bonin Islands Heine & Brown 204 Regent of Lew Chew — from a daguerreotype Brown 215 Afternoon gossip. Lew Chew — from a daguerreotype Brown 219 Lew Chew costumes, middle class — from a daguerreotype Brown 226 View of Uraga, Yedo bay Heine 233 First landing at Gorahama Heine 256 Delivery of the President's letter Heine 261 Torig.asaki, Yedo bay Heine 268 Inner harbor and ruins, Timagusko. Heine & Brown 281 China girl, sycee head-dress — from a daguerreotype Brown 296 Macao, from Penha Hill Heine 298 Jesuit convent, Macao Hei.ne 300 Napha, from the sea Heine 309 Market-place in Napha Heine 317 Bay of Wodowara Heine & Walke 325 Commodore meeting commissioners at Yokuhama Peters 346 Tenoske and Takojuro, interpreters. Brown 348 View from Webster island. ^ Heine 353 Temple at Yokuhama Heine 355 XVI ILLUSTRATIONS. Page. Delivery of presents Peters 357 Japanese soldiers, Yokuhama Heine 359 Wrestlers at Yokuhama - Peters 371 Dinner on board the Powhatan - Heine 375 Siinoda, from A'andalia Bluff Heine 401 Bridge of cut-stone, &c., Simoda Heine _ 403 Japanese woman, Simoda Brown 404 Mother and child, Simoda — daguerreotype Brown 405 Temple of Hat-clii-man-ya-chu-ro Heine 406 Devotions in great temple, Simoda Heine 407 Buddhist priest, Simoda, in costume Brown 408 Buddhist priest, Simoda — likeness - Bbown 409 Bell-house, Simoda — daguerreotype Brown 410 Mariner's temple, Simoda — Heine _ 411 Japanese rice-mill, Simoda - Kellogg 414 Kura-Kawa-Kakei, prefect of Simoda — daguerreotype Brown _ 417 Japanese women — daguerreotype Brown 418 Simoda, from the American grave yard Heine 425 Japanese funeral, Simoda - Heine , 426 Hakodadi, from Snow Peak _ Heine 430 Prefect of Hakodadi — daguerreotype Brown 433 Chief temple, Hakodadi - Heine _ 442 Street in Hakodadi - -. Heine 443 Entrance to a temple, Hakodadi - Brown 445 Hakodadi, from Telegraph Hill Helve ._ 447 Japanese junk, section _ - -Kellogg 448 Japanese junk, cross-section Kellogg 449 Japanese boat - - - - Kellogg 450 Japanese junk, view complete Meffert ^. 451 Fire company's house and engine Heint; 459 Fac simile, Japanese painting 462 Japanese painting — crossing the Oho-e-ga-wa 462 Deputy of Prince of Matsmai — daguerreotype Brown 468 Conference-room, Hakodadi - Heine 470 Governor of Simoda — daguerreotype - Brown 477 Tatsnoske, second interpreter — daguerreotype Brown 485 Faiewell visit at Simoda - Heine 486 Japanese fac simile, crucifixion -. 487 WOOD-CUTS. View of Funchal, Madeira Heine & Brown 82 Funchal Cathedral, Madeira - - Heine & Brown - 83 Ox sledge, Madeira - Heine - 84 Old house, Longwood, St. Helena Heine & Brown 93 Travellers in South Africa - Heine - 100 Kaffir chief and Fingo woman C. Town, artist 102 Kaffir chief " Seyolo" and wife — from life E. Brown - 102 Port Louis, Mauritius Heine & Beown 108 Costumes of Mauritius - Heine 110 Public square, Port Louis Heine 111 Pointde galle, Ceylon Heine - 115 Buddhist temple near Point de galle, Ceylon Heine 121 Mississippi saluted by an English frigate, straits of Malacca E. Bro-»tn 123 Malay Proa - E. Brown 126 Mosque in Singapore Pobtman 127 Malay tombs near Singapore - - Heine 131 Barber boy. Hong Kong Heine 134 View of Old China street. Canton Heine 137 Tanka boat, Macao E. Brown 141 Tanka boat girl E. Brown 141 Chinese woman and child E. Brown 141 ILLUSTRATIONS. XVU Page . Oamoen's cave, Macao, (front) Heixe - 142 Do. do. (rear) .- Heixe - Ii3 American consulate and Port of Shanghai Hei.n'e - - - 14.') Lew Chew peasant — daguerreotype _E. Brown - 157 Lew Chew merchant — daguerreotype E. Bkown Kil Night camp of exploring party, Lew Chew Heixe l(><i Banner Kocls, Lew Chew Heixe 16S Tombs in Lew Chew Heine 1G9 Ground plan of Nagagusko, Lew Chew Heixe - 170 Nagagusko interior _ Heine 171 Euins of Nagagusko north Heine ._ .- 172 Eice-houses in the valley of On-na, Lew Chew E,\y.\rd Tatlok __ 178 Kung-Kwa of On-na Heixe & Brown 180 Cave at Port Lloyd, Benin - - - Heine 201 Valley near Southeast bay, Peel island Bayard Taylor 207 Southeast bay, Peel island Heine - 208 Stapleton island Heine __ 210 Dinner to tlie Eegent of Lew Chew on board U. S. S. Susquehanna Heine _ - 21fi Sugar mill. Lew Chew Heine 227 China girl showing head-dress — daguerreotype Brown 291 Chinese beggar, Macao — daguerreotype Brown _ _ 29.3 Chinese fruit-seller — daguerreotype - - - Brown _. 295 Dress of Chinese lady of rank — daguerreotj'pe. Bkown 296 Chinese barber, Macao — daguerreotype - -Brown _ 297 Protestant gi'ave yard, Macao - _ -Heine _ 300 Salt flats, Napha - Heine 317 Americans landing at Uraga - _ Heixt; _ __ 334 Imperial barge, Tokuhama. _ Heixe _ 345 Buddhist priest, full dress _ Brown 354 Namoura, third interpreter Brown 373 Farm yard, Yokuliama Heine 384 Japanese women — daguerreotype Brown 397 Mia at Yokuhama Heine 400 Simoda, from the creek Heine -- 400 Landing place, Simoda Heine 402 Street and entrance to great temple, Simoda Heine _. 403 Grave yard of chief temple, Simoda -. Heine _ 407 A'alley above Simoda. _ Heine - 412 Japanese women, Simoda .Brown - - -- 418 Hakodadi from the bay Heine - 43 1 Kitchen at Hakodadi _ Heine 441 Fishing at Hakodadi Heine 451 Japanese Kago Brown - 452 Sub-prefect, Hakodadi Brown 453 Water boats and junks, Hakodadi ,. Heine 454 Japanese cooper Brown _ 455 Blacksmitlis' shop Heine 456 Ship yard Heixe. 457 Spinning and weaving Heixe _ _ 458 Fac similes of horses, Japanese drawing 459, 4C0, 461 Japanese wonien Brown _ 474 Boat with Sillibaboos _ __ Brown 502 Chinese rice-hulliug machine _ Heixe _ 507 Cotton whipping. Hong Kong Heine _. 508 Temple of Ben-Ting, Simoda _ _ _ __ _Heixe 510 [.Vll the initial letters and tail-pieces of tlie several chapters are from tlie pencil of Mr. Heixe.] C J EREATA. Page 264, 4th paragraph : "while" for "with." 308, 1st line : "Hong Kong" for "Canton." 325, 2d paragraj)h, 4th line : "infer that these" for "infer that this." 357, (List of presents:) " ship's breakers" for "bealiers." 415, 1st paragraph, 9th line : omit "lower " or " gulf of," and read "of the bay of Yedo.' 461, 1st line : illustration referred to not published. LETTER THE SECEETARY OF THE NAVY, COMMnNICATING, IN COMPLIANCE WITH A EESOLUTION OF THE SENATE, EEPORT or COMMODORE M. C. PERRY, OF THE NAVAL EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. January 22, 1855. — Ordered to be printed, and tliat 5,000 additional copies be printed ; five hundred of which for the use of Commodore Perry. January 29, 1855. — Ordered, That 500 copies be for the use of the Navy Department. Navy Depaktment, August 28, 1855. Sir : In compliance witli the resolution of the Senate of the United States, passed on the 22d January last, calling upon the Secretary of the Navy " to communicate to the Senate a copy of the report of Commodore Perry of the Naval Expedition to Japan," I have the honor to enclose herewith a coj^y of the letter of Commodore Perry to the Department transmitting the manuscript, &c., of said report. I am sir, very respectfully. Your obedient servant, AsBURT DicKiNS, Esq., J. C. DOBBIN. Secretary of the Senate of the United States, Washington, D. C. New Tore, August 27, 1855. Sir : In compliance with a resolution of the United States Senate, bearing date January 22, 1855, calling upon the Secretary of the Navy "to communicate to the Senate a copy of the report of Commodore Perry of the Naval Expedition to Japan, and that the same, with the maps, charts and drawings^ be printed," I have now the honor of transmitting the manuscript of said report, together with drawings, maps, charts, &c., illustrative of the same. With great respect, I am, sir. Tour most obedient servant, Hon. J. C. Dobbin, M. C. PEKRY. Secretary of the Navy, Washington, D. C. INTRODUCTION. v-^ lEWED in any of its aspects, the Empire of Japan has long presented to the thoughtful mind an object of uncommon :^ interest. And this interest has been greatly increased by >- the mystery with which, for the last two centuries, an _ exclusive policy has sought to surround the institutions of this remarkable country. The curiosity of Christendom has been on the alert ; and the several votaries of various pursuits have naturally longed to add more to the little that is known of this self-isolated Kingdom. The political inquirer, for instance, has wished to study in detail the form of government, the administration of laws, and the domestic institutions, under which a nation systematically prohibiting intercourse with the rest of the world has attained to a state of civilization, refinement, and intelligence, the mere glimpses of which so strongly invite further investigation. The student of physical geography, aware how much national characteristics are formed or modified by peculiarities of physical structure in every country, would fain know more of the lands and the seas, the mountains and the rivers^ the forests and the fields, which fall within the limits of this almost tery-a incognita. The naturalist asks, what is its geology, what are its flora and fauna ? The navigator seeks to find out its rocks and shoals, its winds and currents, its coasts and harbors. The man of commerce asks to be told of its products and its trade, its skill in manufac- tures, the commodities it needs, and the returns it can sujiply. The ethnologist is curious to pry into the jshysical appearance of its inhabitants ; to dio- if possible, from its language the fossil remains of long buried history ; and in the affiliation of its people to supply, perchance, a gap in the story of man's early wanderings over the globe. The scholar asks to be introduced to its literature that he may contemplate in historians poets, and dramatists, (fur Japan has them all,) a picture of the national mind. The Christian desires to know the varied phases of their superstition and idolatry ; and longs for the dawn of that day when a purer faith and more enliiihtened worship shall bring them within the circle of Christendom. 4 INTRODUCTION. Amid sucli a diversity of pursuits as we have enumerated, a common interest unites all in a common sympathy ; and lience, the divine and the philosopher, the navigator and the natu- ralist, the man of business and the man of letters, have alike joined in a desire for the thorough exploration of a field at once so extensive and so inviting. With so much to allure, it is not at all wonderful that the attempt to explore should have been repeatedly made. Scarce a maritime nation in the civilized world has been wanting in effort. The Portuguese, Spaniai'ds, Dutch, English, French, and Kussians have, each in turn, sought to establish commercial relations with Japan. The Portuguese and English have both so far succeeded, that, but for themselves, they might permanently have retained their posi- tions. The first were expelled ; the latter voluntarily abandoned the field. The Dutch alone, of all Christian nations, were allowed to remain for purposes of traffic, and they purchased the privilege at the price of national humiliation and personal imprisonment, for which all the profits ■■>'' gainlul barter offer but an inadequate compensation. Limited, however, as have been their sources of information, it is to the Dutch chiefly that the world, until within a very recent period, has been indebted for the knowledge it has had of the Japanese. Nor is that knowledge quite as circumscribed as has sometimes been supposed. Kpempfer, Thunberg, Titsingh, Doeff, Fischer, Meylan, Siebold, and others, have. certainly told us something about Japan. But they could not tell us all it is desirable to know. All were connected with the factory at Dezima, and were watched, of course, with suspicious jeal- ousy. Their only opportunities for seeing anything beyond the town of Nagasaki were afforded at their periodical visits to the court ; and Kfempfer, the first in the list, has so fully related all that an European could learn from this source, that very little has been added to our stock of knowledge by his successors, with the single exception of Siebold. He has collected new facts and materials, and the result of his observations and researches has been given to the world in his "Nippon, Archiv sur Beschreibicng von Japan," (Nippon, an Archive toward the Description of Japan.) While, therefore, it is not quite correct to say that the civilized world knows nothing of Japan, it may truly be asserted that what is known is very much less than what is unknown. Notwithstanding, however, the national efforts at exploration to which we have alluded, it was reserved for our own, the youngest of the nations, to break down at last the barriers with which this singular people had surrounded themselves ; and to be the first, in modern times, to establish with them a treaty of friendship and trade which (already copied as far as was possible by other governments) is to form, as we hope, the initiatory step in the introduc- tion of Japan into the circle of commercial nations. May we not be permitted here to add that it seems not altogether inappropriate that the United States should be the instrument of breaking down these barriers, and of opening Japan to the rest of the world. When, in 1295, Marco Polo returned to Venice from his long sojourn in Asia, he spake to Euro- peans, among other marvels which shocked their credulity, but which have since been fully verified, of the existence of a large island oS the coast of Cathay, (China,) which he called Zqxingu. That island is the modern Nippon of the Japanese Kingdom. He told, also, the story of the indomit- able courage of the people of Zipangu, and related how they had successfully resisted the armies of the powerful Kublai Khan, the conquerors, at that day, of all Asia, and the terror of Europe. He laid before them the ma^.;; which he had made and brought home, with an inscription written INTRODUCTION. upon the shore-line of the Yellow sea : " There is a great island to the east." Years rolled on ; Marco Polo's written story and maps had found their way to Genoa, and probably had been forgotten. At length, in the sixteenth century, they fell into the hands of a man who did not cast them idly by; that man was Christopher Columbus, whose strong mind was then travelling to the overruling conviction of his lite that there must be, to the westward of Europe, great bodies of land at that time utterly unknown. It was Marco Polo's map, and his statements concerning Zipangu particularly, which confirmed his conjectures ; and when he sailed, it was Zipangu, or, as the Italian manuscript of Marco Polo had it, Cipango, on which he hoped and expected to find the termination of his voyage. Accordingly, (as we know,) when he landed on Cuba he believed that he had reached the goal of his long cherished hopes. He knew not that a continent barred his way between Europe and Zipangu;. nor that, still further westward, beyond that continent a mighty ocean rolled its waters^ which must be traversed before Zipangu could be reached. But though not destined himself to find and open Japan to Christendom, it has so hajipened, in the order of Providence, that on the continent which he discovered, and which barred his way to the land he sought, has grown up a nation which has performed a part of his contem- plated work, and fulfilled a portion, at least, of the plan which lured him westward ; a nation which, if it did not discover Zipangu, has, we trust, been the instrument of bringing it into full and free communication with the rest of the world ; a nation which has, as it were, taken the end of the thread which, on the shores of America, broke in the hands of Columbus, and fastening it again to the ball of destiny, has rolled it onward until, as it has unwound itself, it has led the native and civilized inhabitants of the land discovered by the great Genoese to plant their feet on the far distant region of his search, and thus fulfil his wish to bring Zipangu within the influence of European civilization. It is the story of the American entrance into Japan that we propose to relate ; and it is hoped it will aid in the better understanding of the narrative, as well as show what additions, if any, have been made to our previous knowledge, briefly to present^ in a rapid sketch, the out- lines of such information as the world possessed before the American expedition left our shores. On this work we now enter. SECTION I. NAME, EXTENT, AND GEOGRAPHY. There can be no doubt that Japan was unknown to the Greeks and Eomans, and that it was first brought to the knowledge of the European world by the celebrated traveller, Marco Polo. His family was Venetian, and devoted to commercial pursuits. In the year 1275, at the age of eighteen, he accompanied his fathei' and uncle into Asia on mercantile business ; and there, mastering the languages of Tartary, on the return of his relatives to Europe, he remained, and entered into the service of Kublai Khan, the then reigning monarch. In this situation he continued for seventeen years. Possessed of a good mind, he was a close observer of what he saw around him, and rendered the most important services, both military and diplomatic, to the 6 INTRODUCTION. monarcli, with whom he hecame not merely a favorite, but in some degree a necessity. At length, in 1295, after an absence of some twenty years, he returned to Venice, and was the first European traveller who made known the existence of Japan to the inhabitants of the west. He had not visited it in person, (as he is carelul to state,) but he had traversed the greater part of China, and had there heard what he related concerning Japan. We may remark, in passing, that his statements of what he had seen and heard so far surpassed the experience and knowledge of his countrymen that he shared the fate of some modern travellers, and was not believed. Nothing, however, is more sure than that modern research has impressed with the character of truth all that he related on his personal observation, and much of that which he gathered from the statements of others. He, as we have already said, called Japan Zipaiuju; it was the name which he had heard in China. The Japanese themselves call their country Dai Nippon, which means ' ' Great Nippon. " As to the origin of the latter word, it is a compound of two others ; nitsu, " the sun," and pon or foil, " origin ;" these, accordmg to the Japanese rule of combination, become Nippon or Nifon, signifying " origin of the sun ;" in other words, the East. In the Chinese language, Nippon, by the usual change of pronunciation, becomes Jih-pun, to which Koue is added, meaning " country" or " Kingdom." The whole Chinese word, Jih-pun-hme, therefore, is, in English, " Kingdom of the origin of the sun," or " Eastern Kingdom." The reader will readily perceive how, on the lips of an European, the name would become Zi-pan-gu. We thus have the derivation, Nippon, Jih-pun, Japan. As to the extent of the Kingdom : it consists of a great number of islands, said to be 3,850, lying off the eastern coast of Asia, and spread over that part of the ocean which extends from the 129th to the 146th degree of east longitude from Greenwich, and is between the 31st and 46th degrees of north latitude. The chain to which they belong may be traced on the map from the Loo-Choo islands to the southern extremity of Kamtschatka, and from this latter peninsula, through the Kurile islands, to the promontory of Alaska, on our own continent. They are in the line of that immense circle of volcanic development which surrounds the shores of the Pacific from Tierra del Fuego around to the Moluccas. The Kingdom is divided into Japan proper and the dependent islands. The first named division consists of the three large islands, Kiu-siu, Sitkokf, and Nippon, and the whole Empire contains about 160,000 square miles. Of many of the islands we know nothing. Their coasts are so difficult of access, and shallow seas and channels, with sunken rocks and dangerous whirl- pools, added to winds as variable as they are violent, have interposed most serious obstacles to nautical exploration, so that we have yet much to learn of the navigation of the waters around the islands of Japan. Those of which we have as yet most information are Kiu-siu, Nippon, and Yesso, or Jesso. On the first of these is the town of Nagasaki, and this is the port to which the Dutch have been most rigorously confined, in all their commercial transactions, for two hundred years. Indeed, they have not been permitted to live within the town itself, but have been literally imprisoned on a very small island in the harbor, called Dezima, where they have been most closely watched, and many rigid restrictions have been imposed on their intercourse with the people. Under certain circumstances, they have been at times jiermitted to go into the town, but not to remain for any long period, nor have they ever been allowed to explore the island. Their ojjijortuni- ties, therefore, except in the case of Siebold, have been very limited for acquiring, from personal observation, a knowledge of anything on the island of Kiu-siu beyond what they could see from their prison. INTRODUCTION. 7 As to Nippon, ou which is Ycddo^ tlie capital of the Kingdom, they have had the oppor- tunity of seeing more. This has resulted from the fact that periodical visits, with presents, have heen made to the Emperor at the capital hy the cliief Dutch commissioner at the factory on Dezima ; and on these visits he has heen accompanied hy his physician and a small numher of his suhordinate officers. It is, therefore, to the chief commissioners and their medical attendants that we have been indebted for all we have been told since the establishment of commercial rela- tions with the Dutch. Titsingh, Doeff, Fischer, Meylan, were all chiefs of the factory, while Kasmpfer, Thunberg, and Siebold have all been the physicians. Tiiese visits were formerly annual, latterly they have heen less frequent, and a more jealous surveillance has been exercised over the European travellers. Still they have evaded restrictions as far as was possible, have seen all they could, and told all they saw. But they were, of necessity, obliged to gather miich of wliat they relate from the information of the Japanese ; how far it is to be considered as in all respects accurate neither they nor we are able to say. Yet the Dutch residents undoubtedly knew for themselves more about the island of Nippon than they did concerning Kiu-siu, in one of the harbors of which was their prison. As to Yesso, or Jesso, it is confessedly very imperfectly known. One of its ports is Matsmai, and here Captain Grolownin, of the Kussian navy, was kept as a prisoner for two years. In an effort which he made to escape he wandered over a part of the island ; but as he was not seeking on this excursion materials for description, nor studying at his leisure the habits of the people, his statements are, as might be expected, altogether unsatisfactory, and yet we have none better from an European eye-witness. Kajmpfer, Thunberg, and Siebold are our most valuable sources of information since the days of the Dutch commerce. At an earlier period, and before Japanese jealousy of foreign influence had prompted them to adopt their system of exclusion, the opportunity was far more favorable for the acquisition of information by the personal observation of strangers . The Portuguese missionaries and some early English navigators, therefore, afford us on some points a knowledge such as no European during the last two hundred years could possibly have procured. Of the physical aspect of these principal islands former writers give different accounts. Thunberg represents them as composed of a succession of mountains, hills, and valleys, while Kffimpfer says that he travelled over several plains of considerable extent. The country is un- doubtedly very hilly, and in general the hills come down near to the seashore, leaving but narrow strijjs of land between the water and their bases ; it is, however, not improbable that level plains of some extent may be found in the interior. The hills, however, are not sterile • and covered, as most of them seem to he, with the fruits of cultivation up to their summits bear witness alike to the numbers and industry of the population. Mountains, however are to he found as well as hills, nor is it surprising that some of them should he volcanic. Westward of the bay of Yeddo rises to the height of some twelve thousand feet the Fudsi Jamma, with its summit whitened by perpetual snow ; it was once an active volcano. The northern part of Nippon also is known to he traversed by a chain of mountains, from which rise several isolated peaks, the craters, in some instances, of extinct volcanoes, while others still burning, are to be seen on the islands scattered in the gulfs of Corea and Yeddo. In such a country the rivers cannot probably be long ; while the rapidity of their currents indicates that their sources must be considerably elevated. It is said that over some of them no bridges can be built, as none would resist the force of the stream fed by the waters of the 8 INTRODUCTION. mountain torrents. Some of the rivers, however, are navigable by small boats for several miles from the sea into the interior. The Japanese, from the nature and position of their country, ought to be a maritime people ; they can have but few natural facilities for inland trade. Their ingenuity and industry have, however, been taxed to open modes of communication with the interior ; roads and bridges have been constructed, and in some instances canals have been made to unite their rivers and lakes. Of the climate of Japan it is not possible to speak with much certainty. In the southern part of the Kingdom it is said to be not unlike that of England. Some winters are remarkably mild, without any frost or snow, though generally such is not the case ; when however these occur, they last but for a few days. The heat in summer is said to average 98° of Fahrenheit at Nagasaki. This, which would otherwise be excessive, is much moderated by the breeze which, in the day time, blows from the south, and at night from the east. There is what the Japanese call satkasi, or the rainy season, in June and July ; by this, however, it is only meant that the rains are then most abundant ; for, in point of fact, they are frequent all the year round, and the weather appears to be variable. No part of the ocean is subject to heavier gales than the sea around Japan, and the hurricanes are terrific ; fogs also are, as might be expected, very prevalent, thunder storms are common, and earthquakes have more than once destroyed a great part of the most populous towns. Kfempfer remarked, also, that water-spouts were of very frequent occurrence in the seas around Japan. Yet, notwithstanding all these things, the country cannot^ we think, be deemed insalubrious ; for the Japanese are in general a healthful people^ and the country is very thickly inhabited. SECTION IT. ORIGIN OF THE JAPANESE PEOPLE. An opinion has been expressed by several writers that Japan was colonized by the Chinese. Such an opinion, founded on very superficial observation, was advanced long before comparative philology had been resorted to by the learned, as one of the safest and best tests of truth in tracing the relationship of nations. But since the application of this test, no one, competent to speak instructively on the subject, has ventured to deduce the Japanese from a Chinese origin. The structure of the languages of the two people is essentially different. It is true that certain Chinese words, the names of objects, introduced by the Chinese, may be heard from the lips of a Japanese, modified however in the pronunciation ; it is also true that the Chinese dialect of the Mandarins forms a species of universal language among the learned, a sort of latin in the extreme east that is understood by the highly educated, not only in China, but in Corea, at Tonquin, and other parts, and also in Japan ; but so little is the affinity between the primitive language of Japan and that of China, that the common people of the two countries, neighbors as they are, cannot understand each other without the aid of an interpreter. Probably those Europeans who too hastily adopted in former times the conclusion of a Chinese origin for the Japanese, may, in their ignorance of the languages, have been misled by. observing among the Japanese the occasional use of the idiographic cypher of the Chinese iu INTRODUCTION. 9 some of the Japanese writings. It was introduced into Japan A. D. 290, but the Japanese have an alphabet^ or rather a syllahariura of their own, constructed on a principle entirely difi'erent from the Chinese idiograph. Each of these Chinese characters is in Japan pronounced in two distinct manners. The one, as among the Chinese, with a sliglit variation in the Japanese pronunciation. This idiom is called /iTo/ze, which means simply '' a Chinese sound or luord ;" the other mode of pronouncing is Japanese, and is called Yomi, which signifies "interpretation;" the meaning of the Koye ivord. An example will illustrate. The words (according to Japanese pronunciation) tin, chi, nin, all Chinese, are Koye, and mean respectively heaven, earth, man : the words ame, tsoutsi,fito, are the Yomi (pure Japanese) of those Koye words, and have, in the proper language of Japan, the same meaning as the three Chinese words above named. Hence, among the Japanese, there are three dialects ; the first is pure Yomi, without any admixture of the Koye. This is the primitive langviage of the country, and is at this day used in poetry and works of light literature. The second is pure Koye, and is employed by the bonzes in their religious books. The third is a mixture of the two, and constitutes the common language of the Empire. But the construction of sentences in the Chinese and Japanese, as to the collocation of words, is entirely different, as is also the pronunciation by a Chinaman and a native of Japan. That of the last is neat, articulate, distinct, and rarely is there heard a syllable composed of more than two or three letters of our alphabet; while the speech of the former is little better than a con- fused sing-song monotone, unpleasant to the ear, in which constantly occurs a disagreeable crowding together of consonants. If an analysis of the sounds of our letters be made, a Chi- nese pronounces our aspirate H very plainly, while a Japanese never sounds it, but invariably substitutes for it F ; while, on the other hand, our E and D, which are sounded by a Japanese with a distinctness equal to our own, always become L in the mouth of a Chinese. But without dwelling longer on this pointy it is sufficient to say that an examination of grammatical struc- ture conclusively settles, on the testimony of language, that the original inhabitants of Japan were not Chinese. But the question still remains to be answered, "whence came the primitive occujiants of Japan ?" On this subject a diversity of opinion is to be found. Kamrpfer brings them from the plains of Shinar, at the dispersion. He supposes them to have passed from Mesojiotamia to the shores of the Caspian, thence through the valleys of the Yenisi, Silinga, and parallel rivers to the lake of Argueen ; then following the river of that name, which arises from the lake, he thinks they reached the Amoor, following the valley of which they would find themselves in the then uninhabited peninsula of Corea, on the eastern shore of Asia. The passage thence to Japan, especially in the summer season, would not be difficult. He supposes that this migration occupied a long time ; that they stojjped when they found a pleasant region, and then resumed their march when they were pressed on their rear, or annoyed by other nomadic tribes. It was easy for them to make a home wherever they could find water and pasture for their flocks and herds. From the jnirity of the primitive language of Japan^ (the intermixture of Chinese words is within the historic period and easily accounted for^.) he supposes that the original stock could not, in its migration, have remained very long in any one inhabited place, or mingled much with any people then existing, of whose language we at this day have any knowledge ; otherwise words from such language would have been found incorporated in the primitive Japanese tongue. 2 J 10 INTRODUCTION. This, if not satisfactory, is at least ingenious. Modern ethnologists, however, turn to language as the best evidence of origin. Dr. Pickering, of the United States exploring expe- dition, seems disposed, from an observation of some Japanese whom he encountered at the Hawaiian islands, to assign to them a Malay origin. Others, judging from language, consider them of the Mongol stock. Very close affinities cannot probably be found between the Japanese and any other Asiatic language ; but in its grammatical structure the Yomi of Japan is by some thought to be most analogous to the languages of the Tartar family. Siebold found, as he supposed, analogies between it and the idioms of the Coreans, and the Kurilians, who occupy the islands of Jesso and Tarakai or Karafto. He has described the coast of Tartary opposite to this last island, (called improperly by Europeans Sakhalian,) and thinks he finds a resemblance in citstoms ; but Klaproth has shown that the language of the Tartary coast (Sandan) is a Tungusian dialect;, and says that the language of Japan bears no decided marks of affinity either with it or with any other of the idionas named by Siebold. It is clearly not Tungusian. Kla- proth's vocabularies of some of the idioms of Asia, particularly of the Mongolian, the Finnish, and some Indian dialects, show a very considerable number of simple and original words which belong also to the Japanese. In the present state of our information, the more commonly received opinion seems to be that the Japanese are of the Tartar family. But they certainly do not all have the Tartar complexion or physiognomy. The common people, according to Thim- berg, are of a yellowish color all over, sometimes bordering on brown and sometimes on white. The laboring classes, who in summer expose the upper parts of their bodies, are always brown. Their eyes are not round, but oblong, small and sunk deep in the head. In color they are generally dark brown or rather black, and the eyelids form in the great angle of the eye a deep furrow, which gives them the appearance of being sharp or keen sighted. Their heads are large and their necks short, their hair black, thick, and from their use of oil, glossy. Their noses, although not flat, are yet rather thick and short. The inhabitants of the coast of Kiu-siu, according to Siebold, differ in physical aspect, as well as in other respects, from those in the interior of the island. Their hair is most freq^uently black, in some cases crisped, the facial angle is strongly marked, the lips puffed, the nose small, slightly aquiline and depressed at the root. In the interior the people, mostly agricul- turists, are a larger race, with broad and flattened countenances, prominent cheek bones, large space between the inner angles of the eyes, broad and very flat noses, with large mouths and a reddish brown skin. But beside these, Thunberg also tells us that the descendants of the eldest and noblest families, of the princes and lords of the Empire, are somewhat majestic in their shape and countenance, being more like Europeans, and that ladies of distinction, who seldom go out into the open air without being covered, are perfectly white. Siebold also, speaking of the inhab- itants of Kiu-siu, informs us that "the women who protect themselves from the influences of the atmosphere have generally a fine and white skin, and the cheeks of the young girls display a blooming carnation." These facts, as Dr. Latham has said, do not necessarily involve the assumption of a double source of population, while, at the same time, such a second source is not an ethnological improbability. The darker race, he intimates, may have come from Formosa. INTRODUCTION. 11 SECTION III. GOVERNMENT. Japan jiresents the singular feature of having tivo Emperors at the same time, the one secxilar, the other ecclesiastical ; hut it is a mistake to suppose that this duplicate sovereignty was estahlishcd from the beginning, as one of the original elements of her civil polity ; it has resulted from historical events that occurred long after Japan had a system of government. The Japanese, like many other people, claim for their nation an immense antiquity ; hut the authentic history of the Kingdom commences with Zin-mu-ten-woo, (whoso name signifies "the divine conqueror,") about the year 660 B. C. Klaproth thinks he was a Chinese warrior and invader ; he tliis however as it may, he conquered Nippon, and built a temple palace, dedicated to the sun-goddess, and properly called a dairi ; his own appropriate title was Mikado, though the two terms are frequently confounded by European writers. He was the founder of the sovereignty of the Mikados, and from liim, even to this day, the Mikados descend. He was sole sovereign, both secular and spiritual, and claimed to rule by divine riglit. His successors, asserting the same right, added to it that of inheritance also, and their government was a despotism. By degrees these monarchs ceased to lead their own armies, and entrusted the military command to sons and kinsmen, though the supreme power still was theirs. This jjower, however, appears gradually to have been weakened by a custom which prevailed, of abdication by the Mikados, at so early an age, that the sovereignty descended upon their sons while they were yet children, the abdicating monarch frequently governing for the young king. The cause of these abdications was the desire to escape from the grievous burden of monotonous ceremonies, and complete isolation from intercourse without, which made the occupant of the throne little better than a royal prisoner. At length it happened that the reigning Mikado, who had married the daughter of a powerful prince, abdicated in favor of iiis son, a child three years old, while the regency passed into the hands of the grandfather of the infant monarch. The regent placed tlie abdicated monarch in confinement, and this produced a civil war. Yorifomo, one of the most distinguished characters in Japanese history, espoused the cause of the imprisoned king, and after a war of several years was triumphant, when he released the captive and made him regent. But his regency conferred a nominal autliority only ; the real power resided in the hands of Yoritomo, who was created Sio i dai Ziogoon, or " genei'alissimo fighting against the barbarians." Ujjon the death of the ex-Mikado, Yoritomo, as lieutenant of the sovereign, virtually ruled for twenty years ; and when he died, liis title and authority devolved upon Iris son. Tliis was the com- mencement of the power of the Ziogoons, or temporal sovereigns. Time contributed to strengthen it under the successive reigns of infant Mikados, until it became recognized as hereditary. But, though a very important, and indeed dangerous power, was tlius vested in the Ziogoons, yet the Mikado was looked on as possessing the royal authority, and to him it belonged to appoint the Ziogoon, wlio was, intrutii^ vice regent, but did not ojienly aspire to coequal rights of sovereigntj'. Tliis condition of things remained until tbe latter half of the sixteentli century. The Emperor (Mikado) was an autocrat who had a sovereign deputy, (Ziogoon,) tlie efficient and active ruler. During this long period, however, the power of the Ziogoons was silently and 12 INTRODUCTION, imperceptibly increasing ; until, at last, that happened which it requires hut little sagacity to perceive could not but be, in the end, the unavoidable result. Men invested with power are more apt to encourage its growth than to keep it stationary or diminish it ; more especially when those whose interest it is to check their ambition are known to be imbecile. It was about the middle of the sixteenth century that two brothers, descendants from Yori- tomo, became rivals for the office of Ziogoon. The princes of the Empire took part with the one or the other, domestic strife raged, and the end of the contest was the death of both the rival brothers. The mightiest prince of that day was the prince of Owari, who, on the death of the brothers, immediately set up for himself as Ziogoon. One of the most sagacious as well as bravest of his adherents was an obscure man named Hide-yosi or Fide-yosi. His station was so lowly that, even in his own times, his parentage was matter of doubt ; but his zeal and talents commended him to the notice of his master, and he became the trusted friend and confidential adviser of the prince of Owari, who, by his aid, succeeded in being appointed Ziogoon. Men's minds had been wrought to such excitement by the civil strife, that when the prince triumphed over his oppo- nents, the reigning Mil:ado did not dare to breast popular opinion, and therefore conferred on him the office. The new Ziogoon, of course, rewarded his faithful ally, and conferred on Fidc- yosi a high military appointment. Presently, the j)rince of Owari was murdered by one who usurped his office ; he, in his turn, shared a like fate ; and now the hour had come for Fide-yosi. When all was in confusion, he seized upon the office for himself; and so well known were his talents and power, that the frightened Mikado, at once, without hesitation, approved and con- firmed him in the office, and he took the name of Tayko-sama, (the Lord Tayko.) With his title thus legitimated, in the confidence of his abilities, he trusted to himself for the rest, and has left behind him a name among the most celebrated in the history of Japan. He was a statesman and a soldier, and displayed on the throne all the energy and ability which had contributed to place him there. He put an end at once to the civil commotions, by giving to the opposing princes of the Empire work to do in the invasion and conquest of Corea. He was about marching to subdue China, when death arrested him, in the year 1598, at the age of sixty-three. The Japanese, to this day, consider him as one of the ablest men their country has X>roduced. During his reign he made large progress in the work of reducing the sovereignty of the 3Iikado almost to a shadow ; and inthralling him by more and more burdensome ceremonials, and a most rigorous seclusion, all under the seemingly loyal pretext of profound deference and respect for his heaven-born authority, he quietly left him to " wield a barren sceptre." Tayko-sama left an only son, six years old. To secure him in the succession, his father, on his death bed, caused him to njarry the granddaughter of one of his own most particular friends and counsellors, lyeyas, prince of Micava, from whom he obtained a most solemn promise that when the boy should have attained his fifteenth year he would have him recognized as Ziogoon. lyeyas proved unfaithful, became Ziogoon himself, and his descendants to this day hold the office, while a veil of mystery covers ujj the fate of the wronged son of Tayko. As to the Mikado, lyeyas jmrsued the policy of his predecessor, and depriving him even of the little power which Tayko had left to him in temporals, he reduced the once absolute autocrasy which he represented to a mere ecclesiastical supremacy, and brought him down to the utter heljdessness and depend- ence which at this day mark liis condition. And tliis is, in brief, the liistory of events by which Japan has come to present that singular and unique feature in government of one empire simul- taneously under tivo sovereigns. INTRODUCTION. 13 The residence of the Mikado is at Miako ; that of the Ziogoon is at Yeddo ; each is sur- rounded with imperial splendor ; the one is monarch dejure, the other is Emperor de facto. But however ahsolute may have been the usurped authority of the Ziogoon in the beginning, it has been subsequently very much modified ; and certain it is that at tliis day tlie rule of the Ziogoon is by no means arbitrary. He cannot do just what he pleases. The laws of the Empire reach him as much as they do the meanest subject. These laws are unalterable, and are exceedingly minute in detail, controlling almost every action of life. The Emperors, both spiritual and secular, are just as much enthralled by them as the humblest man in the Kingdom. In times of usurpation or political trouble they may, in some few instances, have been set at naught, but these are exceptional cases. There are two prominent features in the Japanese system of government: the one elemental, the other practical ; and the two serving as the bases of almost everything else in their polity. The first is feudalism, or something very similar to it ; and the second, exhibited in the practical administration of the government, is a system of checks and balances, founded on an all-pervad- ing secret espionage, ramifying through all classes of society, from the highest to the lowest. To explain this we must briefly advert to the several grades of society. We have already spoken of the two Emperors. The Mikado is supreme in rank and nominally recognized as such ; but he has not a particle of political power ; is not allowed to have troops, and is literally, from birth to death, shut up at Miako, in his little principality of Kioto, with the revenues of which, and the rich presents sent him by the Ziogoon, he must be content. Even in his own principality he is governed for, as an independent prince, by some grandee of his court, so that never lived there sovereign with less of sovereign attributes allowed him. But for the tenacity with which the Japanese cling to their ancient usages and laws, the Mihados would, doubtless, have long .since ceased to form a part of the cumbrous and complicated machinery of government. Formerly it belonged to them to name or appoint the Ziogoon; they may, indeed, still nominally have this power ; but it is without any real value, as the office of Ziogoon has for a long time been heredi- tary. But politically insignificant as the Mikado is, he is venerated with a respect little, if at all, inferior to that rendered to the gods themselves. Living in mysterious, though, for the mo.st part, indolent seclusion, he is venerated because he is inaccessible ; and is, in truth, a prisoner who must find, if he find at all, solace for his confinement in the golden chains and ornamental prison-house of his captivity. No wonder that the abdication of a Mikado is common in Japanese history. As to the Ziogoon, he commands the revenues of the country, has at his disposal an army, and is anything but a prisoner. Once in seven years he makes a visit, surrounded with royal pomp, to the court of his brother sovereign, whom he takes care to keep, at all times, under the surveillance of unsuspected secret spies. He sends, too, in the intervals between his visits, embassies with rich presents to the shadow king of the holy court, and receives in turn what he probably deems a valueless bundle of blessings and jirayers. The hereditary classes in society are said to be eight in number ; and, except under very peculiar circumstances, no one can leave, through life, the class in which he was born without a forfeiture of respectability. Class I. These are the hereditary vassal princes of the Empire. Class II. These are hereditary nobility, below the rank of ^jrtnces. They hold their lands as fiefs, subject to knight service or the rendition of military service to some one of the hereditary 14 INTEODDCTION. princes. If tliey belong to one of the imperial cities, tlieir military service is clue directly to the Ziogoon himself. The number of armed vassals required of them is regulated by the extent of their respective domains. These hereditary nobles have generally sub-vassals on their lands, who are bound to furnish their several quotas of fighting men. Out of tliis class, governors of provinces, generals, and officers of State are selected. Class III. This includes all the priests of the Kingdom— seemingly, those of the ancient religion of Japan, Sintoo, as well as of Buddhism. Class IV. This is composed of the vassal soldiers, furnished by the nobility of Class II. These four classes are the higher orders of Japanese society, and enjoy certain privileges of dress. They carry two swords, and wear a species of loose petticoat trowsers, which none of lower rank dare to put on. Class V. These constitute the higher portion of the middle classes, such as medical men, government clerks, and other professional men and employes. Class VI. Merchants and shopkeepers, who rank low in Japan, no matter what may be their wealth. Any one of the classes above this would be disgraced forever should he engage in any trade or traffic. The richest men in the Empire belong to this class ; and yet they are not permitted to expend their money in a luxurious or ostentatious style of living. Sumptuary laws impose restraints which they dare not violate. They are not allowed to wear even the single sword, imless they purchase the privilege, by becoming the menial followers of some great lord, at the price of a considerable sum of money. Class VII. This is composed of retail dealers, little shopkeepers, pedlars, mechanics, and artisans of all descriptions, save one, to be mentioned presently. Painters and other artists belong to this class. Class VIII. This consists of sailors, fishermen, peasants, and agricultural and day laborers of all kinds. The peasants seem to be a species of serfs, attached to the soil, like the ancient villein of feudal times, and belong to the land-owner. Sometimes the land is hired, and worked "on shares," the agriculturist paying the proprietor a certain proportion of the crops. Tlie exception alluded to among mechanics, in Class VII, is one which is supposed to have originated in one of the superstitions of the Sintoo religion, which tabooed all who had defiled themselves by coming in contact with a dead body. Whether this be the origin of the excep- tion, we know not ; but the fact is well established, that the tanners, curriers, leather dressers, and, in short, every one in any way connected with the making or vending of leather is placed under ban or interdict. Those of this proscribed class cannot dwell in the towns or villages that are occupied by the other classes ; they are not even numbered in the census of the popula- tion. They dare not enter an inn, tea-house, or any public place of entertainment. If they are travelling, and want food or drink, they must wait outside of the wall of the house, and there be served in their own bowl or platter ; for no Japanese, not of their own class, would ever touch or use the vessel out of which they had taken food. Out of this class come the public executioners and gaolers throughout the Empire. In short, they are shunned like the leper of old. Before we proceed to speak of the singular system by which these various classes are governed, it is proper to premise that originally the Kingdom was sub-divided into sixty-six or sixty-eight principalities. These had been previously independent kingdoms, and were continued, as prin- cipalities, under the rule of their resi^ective princes, subject, liowever, to a forfeiture of the INTRODUCTION. 15 rights of the governing family, in case of rebellion or treason. This penalty of forfeiture was incurred by many of the reigning princes, and advantage was taken of the circumstance, as often as it occurred, to split the forfeited principalities into fragments ; so that, instead of the original number, there are now no less than six hundred and four distinct administrations, in- cluding therein principalities, lordships, imperial provinces, and imperial towns, of which last the Ziogoon himself is the ruling head. 1. There is under the Emperor, {Ziogoon,) a grand council of state, consisting of thirteen, which governs in the Emperor's name. Of these thirteen, five councillors are taken from the first class we have named, the hereditary princes and vassals of the Empire ; the remainino- eight are taken from the second class, the old nobility, below the rank of princes. There seems to be among these a head councillor of state^ whose powers and functions are not unlike those of a grand vizier in Turkey. He is called " Governor of the Empire," and all the other council- lors are subordinate to him. He decides upon all afiairs of moment ; has the universal appoint- ing power ; receives returns from all the authorities of the Empire ; may, on appeal, sanction or reverse every sentence of death passed ; and, in short, acts for the lay Emperor in all these and some other exercises of sovereignty. To this grand council, too, belongs the very important power of dethroning the Ziogoon. Important resolutions of the council are always laid before the Emperor, who generally assents without delay or investigation. Should he, however, dis- sent, a mode of proceeding is pursued, which we will describe presently. It is doubtful whether all these high offices are not hereditary ; and under these are — 2. Inferior state functionaries, in regular and interminable gradation, consisting of lords, guardians of the temples, commissioners of foreign affairs, governors, ministers of jjolice, superintendents of agriculture, &c. No relative of the spiritual sovereign, however, is ever jiut into any of these offices. 3. The vassal princes still govern the principalities or such fragments of them as may be left to them, with an outward show of their former sovereignty ; but it is show only. The princes themselves can do nothing without the consent of the Ziogoon and council. And here we find in full development that system of espionage of which we have spoken. The prince himself, beside being surrounded with a multitude of private sjjies, unknown to him, who watch his domestic as well as public business and doings^ has also tioo official spies ajjpointed by the chief of the grand council, and these, in truth, conduct the administration of the prin- cipality. These are known as secretaries, and both are never permitted to reside in the pro- vince at the same time. They alternate yearly. The families of both secretaries reside con- stantly in Yeddo. The secretary who is in the principality therefore leaves his family behind him in the capital as a hostage for his fidelity. When his year expires he may rejoin them, and his colleague then, bidding adieu to his household for a year, takes his place. Each sec- retary, therefore, is a check upon the doings of the other ; it is the interest of each to report any misfeasance in the official conduct of the other ; in short, they are spies on each other. But the jealous suspicion of the government is not satisfied with even these ^precautions. The family of the prince himself is made to reside at Yeddo, and he must spgnd each alternate year there near the Ziogoon. And this feature of making officials serve in pairs, as spies ujjon each other, we may here remark, once for all, pervades the entire polity of Japan. Every body is watched. No man knows who are the secret spies around him, even though he may be, and is, acquainted witli 16 INTRODUCTION. those that are official. The Emperors themselves are not exempt ; vizier, graml councillors, vassal princes, provincial secretaries, all are under the eye of an everlasting unknown police. The wretched system is even extended to the humblest of the citizens. Every city or town is divided into collections of five families, and every member of such a division is personally responsible for the conduct of the others ; everything, therefore, which occurs in one of these ftimilies, out of the usual course, is instantly reported to the authorities by the other four to save themselves from censure. It has well been said that the government of Japan is a "government of spies." We have said that the Emperors are not exempt. The Ziogoon has his minions about the Ifihado, and the grand council have theirs about the Ziogoon. And the cowardice engendered by such ceaseless distrust necessarily leads to cruelty in penalties. Take as an illustration the case of a measure submitted by the grand council to the Ziogoon ; to which, contrary to his usual custom, he does not at once assent without examination. Suppose he should disapprove, the measure is referred immediately to the arbitration of the three princes of the blood who are the nearest kinsmen of the Ziogoon, and their decision is final. If they do not agree in opinion with the monarch, he must instantly relinquish the throne to his son or to some other heir. He is not allowed even the poor privilege of revising or retracting an opinion. Should the three princes concur in the Ziogoon's opinion_, then the member of the council who proposed the obnoxious measure thus rejected must die; and those who voted with him are often required to die also. Sometimes the whole council, with the " Governor of the Empire" at their head, have in this way been obliged to atone for a mere mistake in national policy by putting them- selves to death. 4. As to the government of lordshijjs, which are only smaller principalities, the rule is the same ; a duality of governors, an alternation in the discharge of official duties, and a separation every other year from all domestic enjoyment. 5. In the imperial provinces and imperial cities the Ziogoon, or rather the vizier and grand council for him, select two governors from the nobility, and surround them with the usual appa- ratus of secretaries and under secretaries, police officers, spies, and all other officials. As to the spies themselves, they are of every rank in life below that of the hereditary princes. The highest nobility dare not shrink from the occupation, and even stoop to disguise themselves, the more efiectually to perform the degrading office. The fact is, if directed to act as spies, they must either do it or adopt as the alternative, death ! Doubtless many of those who jicrform this dishonorable work would gladly, were it j)0ssible, escape from the degradation ; while there are some, ambitious of succeeding to those whom they denounce, tg whom the occupation is congenial enough. A story is told by the writers on Japan which illustrates this. Complaints were sent to the grand council of the governor of the town of Matsmai ; the council resorted to its usual plan of employing a spy. In a little while the offending governor was removed. To the amazement of the people, they recognized in his successor a man whom they had known as a journeyman tobacco-cutter in the town, who, a short time before the displacement of the old governor, had suddenly disappeared from his master's shop. The journeyman was a disguised nobleman, who had acted the part of a spy by order of the court. A very singular custom of self-punishment, even unto death, prevails among all the officials of Japan. When one has offended, or even when in his department there has been any violation INTRODUCTION. 17 of law, altliougli 'beyond liis power of prevention, so sure is he of tlic punishment of death that he anticipates it by ripping up his own body, disembowelling himself, rather than to be delivered over to the executioner. In fact, he is encouraged to do so, inasmuch as by his self-destruction he saves his property from forfeiture and his family from death with him. With many of the high officials it is a point of honor thus to kill themselves on any failure in their departments ; it is construed into an acknowledgment that they deserve to be put to death by the Emperor, and their sons are often promoted to high positions, as a sort of reward for the fother's ingenuous acknowledgment of guilt. It is easy to see, from what has been said, why the laws and customs of Japan are so obsti- nately unalterable. Every man is afraid of proposing an innovation, however wise or necessary, because the penalty is so fearful should it not be approved . He who in the grand council offers a measure which is disapproved by the tribunal of final resort pays for his act with his life. A governor, or lord, or prince, knows that if he attempt any alteration, no matter how salutary, he will be instantly denounced by his colleague, or secretary, a spy upon his conduct, as a violator of the established usages of the Empire, and the certain consequence is death. So, too, with the common people ; broken up into their little sections of five families, they dare not depart in the slightest degree from what is prescribed, for they are quite sure that the authorities will be informed of it, and the penalty inevitably follows. There cannot, under such a system, be anything like judicious legislation, founded on inquiry, and adapted to the ever varying circum- stances of life. All must proceed exactly as it has done for centuries ; progress is rendered imjjossible, and hence, in some degree, the difficulty, so long experienced in all Christendom, of bringing the Japanese into communication with other nations. As a remedy for an existing evil, they saw fit, centuries ago, to interdict entirely all such communication ; and though the fact admits of proof that many of their wisest men would gladly have seen the interdict removed or modified, as being no longer necessary in their altered circumstances, yet no man dared to propose any alteration. We may venture to hope that, even in the partial communication with strangers allowed to the Japanese by the late treaty with our country, the first step has been taken in breaking down their long prevalent system of unalterable laws and unchangeable customs. But among a people so sensitive and suspicious considerable time must elapse before much progress is made in a better direction. And in the first exercise of our rights under the treaty, it is to be hoped the greatest care will be taken by our countrymen to avoid everything which can alarm the sleepless Japanese jealousy of strangers ; if there be not, there is danger lest in their apprehensions, or perchance in mere caprice, they may seek to undo all that they have thus far done. It is obvious that a great deal depends now on the fairness, good sense, and good temper of our consular representa- tives. One rash man may overturn all that has been accomplished. The system of espionage to which we have alluded explains also what all the writers on Japan, and all the officers of our late expedition, represent as a prominent characteristic. We allude to the systematic falsehood and duplicity exhibited, and often without shame, by the high Japanese officials and public functionaries in their negotiations and intercourse with strangers. We do not mean to say that these bad traits belong to the people generally. On the contrary, almost every writer describes them as naturally frank in manner, communicative and open in speech on ordinary topics, and possessed of a very high sense of honor. They are a people of very ingenious and lively minds, possessed of shrewdness, of great personal bravery, as their 3 J 18 INTRODUCTION. history shows, and far superior (at least in our opinion) to any other civilized eastern nation. But the officials are placed in a false position by the -wretched system of spies, and dare not act openly and frankly. As government functionaries they lie and practice artifice to save themselves from condemnation by the higher powers; it is their vocation; as private gentlemen, they are frank, truthful, and hospitable. MacFarlane, who speaks of this official deception, says he has observed precisely the same thing among the Turks. Nearly every Turk, unconnected with government, may be described as being in his private intercourse a frank, truth-loving, honorable man ; while nearly every one holding a government office may be considered as exactly the reverse. These facts present a seeming anomaly, and yet we are not sure that something very like it, and differing in degree only, may not be found nearer to home than Japan. The severity of the Japanese laws is excessive. The code is probably the bloodiest in the world. Death is the prescribed punishment for most offences. The Japanese seem to proceed on the principle that he who will violate one law will violate any other, and that the wilful violator is unworthy to live ; he cannot be trusted in society. Their laws are very short and intelligible, and are duly made public in more modes than one, so that no man can truly plead ignorance ; and the proceedings under them are as simple as the laws themselves. There are no professional lawyers in the kingdom ; every man is deemed competent to be his own pleader. If a party is aggrieved, be immediately appeals to the magistrate, before whom the other party is soon made to appear. The case is stated by the complainant in his own way, and the accused is heard in reply. The magistrate examines the witnesses, and it is said that this officer generally displays great acuteness in detecting falsehood. He passes sentence, and it is carried into execution histanter ; and so ends an ordinary lawsuit. If the matter in controversy be of great importance, the magistrate may refer it to the Emperor in council ; but if he sees fit to decide it himself there is no appeal. Sometimes, in trifling cases, he orders the parties to go and settle the matter privately with the aid of friends, and it is well understood that it 7nust be thus settled, or unpleasant consequences will result. Sometimes, when both plaintiff and defendant are in fault, he awards censure to both, as they may deserve it, and sends them about their business. "We have said their code is bloody in principle, and very often it is sanguinary in practice. Still the relentings of humanity have forced the administrators of justice to some modification of tlie theory which prescribes indiscriminate severity. The magistrate may sentence to death, but he is not obliged to do so, except in cases of murder. He may, therefore, exercise a large discretion. He may imprison in a raya or cage. In this case, the prisoner is allowed a fair projiortion of wholesome food, and provision is made for cleanliness and ventilation. But there is another prison, commonly a dungeon in the governor's house, known by the significant name of gokuya, hell. Into this more are thrust than it will conveniently hold ; the door is never opened except to admit or release a prisoner ; the food is passed within through a hole in the wall, and there is neither light or ventilation except through a small grated hole or window at the top. Books, pipes, and every sjiecies of recreation are prohibited ; no beds are allowed, and the prisoner is subjected to what he considers the deep degradation of being made to wear a rope of straw around his waist instead of the usual silk or linen girdle. The diet is limited and very poor ; but if a rich man is confined, he may buy better food, on condition that he will share it equally with all his fellow j^risoners. The Japanese doctrine is that, if a man of wealth or influence is a criminal, he has no right to fare any better than the poorest man in the Kingdom who commits a crime, therefore all shall be treated alike. INTRODUCTION. 19 We Have already alluded to the well known, yet remarkable feature of Japanese polity, wliicli lias for so long a time induced the government rigorously to interdict all communication between its subjects and foreigners, with the single exception of the Dutch and Chinese. This exclusive system did not always prevail. We shall have occasion, presently, to give the history of its origin, and to place before the reader a statement of the means whereby the Dutch succeeded iu the establishment of their commercial factory at Dezima, in the port of Nagasaki. It is only necessary now to remark that, prior to the visit of the United States' expedition, no other port but Nagasaki was open to a European ship, and, except at that spot, no Japanese was permitted to buy from or sell to a western stranger. The Chinese had some few privileges of trade, but these were hedged around with jealous restrictions that hampered their commercial relations and intercourse quite as much as those of the Europeans. With this general, and necessarily brief view of the leading features of the Japanese government and policy, we pass on to another topic. SECTION IV. RELIGION. StJCH are the contradictions among the several writers on Japan upon the subject of the religion of the country that it is not easy to discover what is the precise truth. Nor is this discrepancy much to be wondered at, for, since the extirpation of Christianity from the Kingdom, there is, probably, no topic on which a Christian would find it more difficult to obtain from a Japanese accurate information than on the subject of religion. There are, however, certain particulars in which all agree, and which are doubtless correct. The original national religion of Japan is called Sin-syu, (from sin, the gods, and syu, faith,) and its followers are called Sintoos. Such, at least, is the statement made by some writers ; but Siebold says the proper Japanese name is Kami-no-mitsi , which means " the way of the Kami," or gods ; this the Chinese have translated into Sliin-tao ; and the Japanese have modified the Chinese into Sinfoo. It is said that the only object ot worship among the Sintoos is the sun-goddess, Ten-sio-dai-zin, who is deemed the patron divinity of Japan. But there are thousands of inferior deities, called Kami, of whom the greater number are canonized or deified men. It is through these and the Mikado, as mediators, that prayers are made to the sun-goddess, who is too great and holy to allow of an independent approach to her in prayer. The Mikado is supposed to be her lineal descendant. But with all these divinities the Sintoos are not idolaters. They have no idols in their temples ; there are images indeed of their Kami, but, as it is alleged, not for purposes of worship. This statement, however, is very questionable. The only decorations of the old temples were a mirror, the emblem of purity of soul, and many strips of white paper formed into what is called a goJiei, also an emblem of purity. Siebold thinks the image of the Kami, introduced into the temples, is a foreign innovation, and never existed before the introduction of Buddhism. The numerous Kami he considers as analogous to the saints of the Komanist. MacFarlane looks on the Sintoo worship at this day as thoroughly permeated with Buddhism. Meylan 20 INTRODUCTION. would make the original religion of Japan a pure theism. It is not easy to say what it was or is. As to the Sintoo creed, its leading features, according to Siebold, are some A'ague notion of the immortality of the soul, of a future state of existence, of rewards and punishments, a paradise and a hell. Its five great duties are : 1st. Preservation of pure fire as an emblem of purity and instrument of purification. 2d. Purity of soul, heart, and body to be cherished, the first by obeying the dictates of reason and the laws, the last by abstaining from whatever defiles. 3d. Observance of festival days, which are numerous. 4th. Pilgrimages, which at certain times in the year are imposing and costly ; and 5tli. The worship of the Kami, both in the temples and in private habitations. Impurity may be contracted in various ways : By associating with the impure, by hearing obscene or wicked language, by eating certain meats, and by coming in contact with blood, or with a dead body. For all these there are the prescribed modes of purification. The festivals all begin with a visit to the temple. There the votary performs his ablutions at a reservoir provided for the purpose ; he then kneels in the verandah, opposite to a grated window, through which he gazes at the mirror, and then offers up his prayers, with his sacrifice of rice, fruit, tea, or the like. This done, he drops his coin in the money-box, and retires. This is the usual form of Kami worship at the temples. The moneys contributed are applied to the support of the Kaminusi, as they are called. These are the priests of the temple, and their name or title means, literally, the landlords of the gods. These priests live in houses within the grounds of their respective temples, and are hospitable to strangers. Siebold says that they marry, and that their wives are priestesses, who have prescribed religious duties ; though we have been told by an intelligent Japanese, in reply to our inquiries, that the Sintoo priests do not marry. Pilgrimage, however, is the great religious duty of the Sintooites. There are two-and-twenty shrines in the Kingdom commanding such homage ; but the great and most sacred one is that of the sun-goddess, Ten-sio-dai-sin, at Isye. To make at least one pilgrimage to this shrine is incumbent upon everybody of the Sintoo faith. The very pious go annually. Even the Buddhists (with the exception of the Bonzes or priests) perform this pilgrimage. The Ziogoon is permitted to perform this religious duty vicariously, and annually sends an embassy of pilgrims to Isye. The Kaminusi are the regular clergy of the Sintoo religion in Japan ; but the European writers on the subject mention two institutions or religious orders, if they may be so called, composed entirely of the blind, and constituting a quasi clergy. The Japanese tell romantic stories about their origin. One of the fraternities they say was founded many centuries ago by Senmimar, a prince of the Empire, and the younger son of the then reigning Mikado. The prince was one of the handsomest men in the Kingdom, and loved a princess whose beauty was a match for his own. She died, and such was his grief, that he wept himself blind. He then founded this order. The other association had a different, but not less remarkable origin. In the times of Yoritomo, of whom we have spoken in the last section, there was a general named Kakekigo, who commanded a part of the troops of Prince Feki. In battle with Yoritomo, Prince Feki was slain, and Kakekigo was taken prisoner. So great was the renown of the prisoner, throughout Japan, that Yoritomo strove most earnestly to gain his friendship ; he loaded him with kindnesses and finally offered him his liberty. Kakekigo replied : "I can love none but my slain master. I owe you gratitude ; hut you caused Prince Feki's death, and never INTRODUCTION.. 21 can I look upon you without wishing to kill you. My best way to avoid such ingratitude, and to reconcile my conflicting duties, is never to see you more; and thus do I insure it." With these words, he tore out his eyes, and presented them to Yoritomo on a salver. The prince, struck with admiration, released him, when Kakekigo withdrew into retirement and founded this second order of the blind, which is called, after Prince Feki, the Feldsado. There are two sects among the Sin-syu : the Yuitz and the Riohoo-Sintoo. The first are the rigidly orthodox, who will allow of no innovation. They are few in number, and consist mostly of the Kaminusi or priests. The other sect, which comprises the great body of the Sintoos, is eclectic, and has introduced a great deal of Buddhism into the system. Buddhism is the most widely diifused of all false creeds. Its followers amount to three hundred and twenty millions, while those of Mohammed fall short of this number by fifty millions. The founder of this religion was a man called Sal-ija-Sinha, (Syaka in Japan,) who, by his virtues and austerity, attained to divine honors, and after death was deified under the name of Buddha, or "the Sage." It is impossible to say when he was born. The earliest period named is 2,420 years before the Christian era ; the latest is but 543 years prior to that event. Neither can it be said with certainty when Buddhism was introduced into Japan. Klaproth and Siebold, both of whom profess to follow Japanese writers, differ as to dates. The probability is that it was brought in from India or Corea near the close of the sixth century of our era. The leading features of this system of religion are the metempsychosis, whence arises the dogma that prohibits the taking of animal life ; the worship of a countless host of idols ; that the grand Lama, or high-priest King, never dies ; that their priests constitute a distinct order in the State, and that they are bound to celibacy. The chief commandments of Buddhism are five in number, and constitute a code which is called the Gokai, or five laws. They are these : not to kill, not to steal, to live chastely, not to lie, and to abstain from strong drink. The Sika'i, or ten counsels, contain the division and application of these laws to particular cases. Buddhism made its way in Japan by degrees, although the government tolerated it from the beginning. Indeed, no feature is more striking among the institutions of the Empire than its enlarged spirit of religious toleration. It was extended to Christianity on its first promulgation by the Portu- guese ; and was not withdrawn until the Japanese supposed that intolerance and treason lurked under the new religion. Christianity was driven from Japan on political, not on religious grounds. Such is the liberality of the government on the subject of religion that, at this moment, may be found in Japan no less than thirty-four sects, all quite distinct from Buddhism, (which is the faith of a majority of the Kingdom,) perfectly unmolested. The truth is, that the Japanese government exhibits now, as it always has done, a very remarkable indifference to mere doctrinal points, so long as they interfere not with the public tranquility. "When the priests of the Japanese sects joined, centuries ago, in a petition to the Emperor that he would banish the Jesuits and the Komish monks, annoyed by their importunities, he asked them how many different religions there were then in Jajjan ? They answered "thirty-five." "Well," said the Emperor, ' ' when thirty-five religions can be tolerated we can easily bear with thirty- six ; leave the strangers in peace." The Buddhism of Japan, at this day, has probably much of the old Sintoo mixed up with it ; but there is reason to think that no creed in the Kingdom has a very strong hold on the popular mind. Christianity, however, is viewed with suspicion by all, and at present is not, in any degree, tolerated. 22 .INTRODUCTION. The idolatry of the common people, who are Buddhists, is exceedingly gross, while among the learned the religion assumes the character of a high mystic creed, not wanting in some features that are pure enough. There is a third sect, called by some writers religious, though Kcempfer more properly speaks of it as a school of philosophers. It is known by the name of Siutoo, which means "the way of philosophers." It inculcates no particular faith, and can accommodate itself to any, whether true or false. In some of its features it borders closely on Pantheism. It is supposed, and we presume correctly, to be an importation from China, compounded of most of the moral precepts of Confucius, and some high, mystic Buddhist notions. It has no religious rites or ceremonies of its own. There are five great points which characterize it. They call them Dsin, Gi, Be, Td, Sin. Dsin teaches them to live virtuously ; Gi to do right and act justly with everybody; Re to be civil and polite ; Tsi sets forth the rules for a good and prudent government ; and Sin treats of a free conscience and upright heart. Nearly all the early European writers say that by far the larger number of the learned men of Japan belong to this school, which is remarkable for its scorn of the Buddhist idolatry. When Christianity was driven from Japan, the Siufooists were suspected of a tendency toward that faith, and thenceforth every Japanese was required to have in his house an idol of some kind. Meylan, the Dutch official at Dezima, speaks of a fourth religion, which co-existed with these three prior to the introduction of Christianity. His story is, that about A. D. 50, a Brah- minical sect was introduced into Japan, wliich taught as doctrines the redemption of the world by the son of a virgin, who died to expiate human sin, thus insuring to man a joyful resur- rection. It also taught a trinity of immaterial persons constituting one eternal, omnipotent God, the maker of all things, who was to be adored as the source of all good. Some have hence in mated what certainly is not impossible, that Christianity may have thus early reached Jajjan thro gh India. But there is probably some mistake in this statement of the doctrines held. No wrier but Meylan has mentioned the story, and both the Buddhist and Brahminical systems afford materials which an over zealous and i;ninformed spirit of Christianity may easily convert into seemingly Christian doctrines. Thus, the old Spanish ecclesiastics who first came to America were quite convinced that the gospel had been brought to our continent by St. Thomas, long before their arrival. SECTION V. GENERAL VIEW OF THE PAST RELATIONS OP THE EMPIRE WITH THE WESTERN CIVILIZED NATIONS. THE POKTUGUESE. Ferdinand Mendez Pinto has been immortalized by Cervantes, but unfortunately for his reputation it is, to use the phrase of Shakspeare, as a "measureless liar." Like Marco Polo, when he told strange things that had befallen him in his wanderings, the men of his generation refused to believe him. But like Polo, he related a great deal that has since been found to be true ; and we arc inclined to think that, when telling what he professed to have seen himself, INTRODUCTION. 23 he interspersed his narrative with as few lies as some of his more accredited successors of modei'n times. Pinto was a good representative of the Portuguese discoverer of the sixteenth century. In his day Portugal was a power. In less than two centuries she had traversed the Atlantic, conquered Madeira, tlie Cape de Verds, tire coast of Guinea and Congo ; liad planted herself on the shores of India, and ohtained a foothold in China. She had founded in her wealtliy metropolis of Goa what has heen called "the Kome of India." She possessed Macao, and was among the first of European maritime powers in the east. Alhuquerque had laid for her the foundations of a magnificent oriental empire, which it needed a man like Alhuquerque to consolidate and retain. The man was wanting, and the empire never grew to maturity. But this her prosperous day produced for her many a hardy sailor, half hero, half adventurer ; now exhibiting a toucli of chivalry and now a touch of trafiic ; a soldier on land to-day and a corsair of the seas to-morrow; exceedingly devout or surpassingly profane, according to circumstances; hut always ready to encounter fatigue, privation or peril, to promote the gain of himself and the grandeur of his country, which on most occasions he felicitously contrived to reconcile and blend into one common end. Of this class Pinto was a type. He visited Jajmn, and has told us the story of his adventures ; and the better authorities of this day believe that he was an eye-witness and actor in such scenes as he relates of personal incidents. There is, however, some room for discussion on the subject of dates ; for if we may credit the Japanese annals, it would seem that about the same time there must have been two visits of Europeans to Japan ; but if there were^ both were made by natives of Portugal, so that to them unquestionably belongs the honor of having first landed on the Japanese soil, and of having brought that country into communication with Europe. The discovery, indeed, was acci- dental in both cases, if two there were, but that does not alter the fact that it was made by the Portuguese. We incline to think, however, that there was but one visit. Tlie annals of Japan record the arrival of the first Europeans, and substantially they agree with Pinto's story. So remarkable was the event, and so strange the appearance of the new comers, that the Japanese preserved portraits of them. Tlie date assigned in the annals would correspond with our October, in the year 1543. Pinto makes the date of his arrival in 1545. Still the details given by Pinto, and confirmed by the annals, force us to believe that both are telling the story of the same event. Whether it were in the one year or the other of those named above, the story is, that a Portuguese shiji or Chinese corsair, (we know not which,) on board of which was Pinto, after great stress of weather, was driven to the shores of Japan, and anchored at last in the harbor of Bun go, on the island of Kiu-siu. The Japanese at that time, though vigilant, yet manifested no reluctance to admit the strangers and hold communication with them. They extended courtesy and kindness to them, and no obstacle was interposed to a free trade with the inhabitants. The names of those who first landed are said by various writers, from Mafleius ujj to Thunberg, to have been Antonio Mota, Francisco Zeimoto, and Antonio Peixoto. Fraissinet, however, thinks that the names have been disfigured or altered, and that the individuals meant were Fernan Mendez Pinto, Diego Zeimoto, and Cliristoval Borallo. The Japanese annals speak of two under the names of Moura Siouksia and Krista Mota, and Fraissinet suggests tliat Siouksia may be the Jajmnese pronunciation of Zeimoto, and Krista their nearest approach to Christoval. The natives and 24 INTRODUCTION. strangers were so well pleased with each other that, hy an arrangement with the viceroy or prince of Bungo, (the rulers of the principalities were then probably more independent of the Emperor than they are now,) a Portuguese ship was to be sent annually to the island of Kiu-siu laden with woollen cloths, furs, manufactured silks, taffetas, and other commodities needed by the Japanese. This ship was to be dispatched probably from Macao, or, it may be, from Goa. The returns were to be made in gold, silver, and copper, of the last of which there is undoubted abundance in Japan, and probably no small quantity of the first. But with this introduction of commercial relations^ the Portuguese soon introduced also priests of the religion they professed. In 1549, seven years only after the discovery, Hansiro, a young Japanese of some rank, had found it necessary to fly from his country, on account of a homicide, and had gone to the Portuguese settlement of Goa, on the Malabar coast. Here he encountered ecclesiastics of the church of Kome, by whom he was converted to the Christian faith and baptized. He was enterprising and shrewd, and soon convinced the Portuguese merchants of Goa that they might establish a profitable trade with Japan, and assured the Jesuits that they also might find a rich harvest of souls in the Empire. The Portuguese hastened to act on both his suggestions ; a ship was loaded with goods and presents and sent to establish a permanent trade with Japan ; while, for the accomplishment of the second object, some of the Jesuit priests were ready enough to embark. Among them was that remarkable man, Francis Xavier, who possessed in an eminent degree many of the most important qualifications of the Christian missionary. To talents of a very high order he added a zeal and enthusiasm rarely equalled, and a courage never surpassed. The thought of the perils attending the mission, so far from disheartening him, served only to strengthen his resolve to undertake It. On board the ship returned the young Japanese convert who had suggested the undertaking. •On arriving at the province of Bimgo all were received with open arms, and not the slightest opposition was made to the Introduction of either trade or religion. No system of exclusion then existed, and such was the spirit of toleration that the government made no objection to the preaching of Christianity. Indeed the Portuguese were freely permitted to go where they pleased In the Emijlre, and to travel, by land or sea, from one end of it to the other. The people bought the goods of the merchants and listened to the teachings of the missionaries. The labors of the last were very successful, for it Is but justice to Xavier and the first missionaries to say that they were most exemplary men — humble, virtuous, disinterested^ and very benevolent. Possessed of some medical skill, they used it kindly and gratuitously among the sick, and were deservedly viewed by the people as friendly and superior men, whose lives were devoted to doing good. They meddled with no public affairs ; unmolested by the government, they troubled not themselves about Its administration ; and imitating the example of the devoted Xavier, they modestly and unceasingly pursued the appropriate duties of their holy calling only. In fact, they loved the Japanese. With one voice the early missionaries speak In terms of strong affection when they describe the docile and good disposition of the Japanese. Xavier says : "I know not when to cease in speaking of the Japanese. They are truly the delight of my heart." This eminent man went from Japan to China In 1551, and in 1552 died at Shan Shan, on the Canton river, not far from Macao. He left behind him, however, among his beloved Islanders, some very able and excellent men, and churches were built and converts made by thousands. Nor were the commercial relations of the new comers less prosperous. They could readily obtain the commodities they wished for the Japanese market from their establishments at Macao INTRODUCTION. 25 and Goa. The profits tliey made on their European mercliandise were commonly one himdred per cent. ; so tliat, as Kfempfer has said, if their commercial prosperity had contimied but twenty years longer, Macao would have been so enriched from Japan that it would have surpassed all that was accumulated in Jerusalem during the reign of Solomon. As one of the old writers expresses it, the Portuguese obtained " the golden marrow" of Japan. In fact they had but to proceed prudently and they would ere long have been the dominant race in Japan. Many of them had married the daughters of the wealthiest Christian Japanese, and no other nation of Europe could have driven them from their strong position. It was about the year 1566 that the Portuguese first called the attention of the reigning prince of Omura to the superiority of the harbor of Nagasaki over the ports they were accustomed to frequent ; and it was at their siiggestion that a settlement was formed there. Bungo, Firando, (Firato,) and Nagasaki were the principal places of commercial business. But all this prosperity was destined to have an end, and we are sorry to say it was occasioned by the ecclesiastics themselves. Had the work begun by Xavier and his companions been left in the hands of men like themselves, we very much doubt whether the severe Japanese laws prohibiting Cliristianity in the Empire would ever have existed. But these prudent, inoffensive , and laborious men were soon outnumbered by swarms of Dominican, Augustinian, and Fran- ciscan friars from Goa and Macao, who were attracted by the flattering accounts of the remarkable success of the Jesuits. They had not labored in making the harvest, they were ready enough to go and reap it. The Franciscans and Dominicans quarrelled with each other, and all the orders quarrelled with the Jesuits. In vain did the latter implore them to profit by their experience, to be discreet and suppress their strife, to respect the laws and usages of the country . In vain did they represent that their conduct would prove fatal, not merely to their own hopes and purposes, but even to the progress, possibly to the continuance in Japan of Christianity itself. All was of no avail. To the Japanese convert was presented the strange spectacle of one ecclesiastic quarrelling with another, of one body of priests intriguing with heathens to defeat another ; while even the poor native Christian labored to reconcile the feuds and rivalries of these consecrated belligerents. The quarrels of these Eoman monastic orders may, therefore, be accounted as one cause of the expulsion of Christianity from Japan. But this was not all. The pride, avarice, and extortions of the Portuguese laity had become excessive about the close of the sixteenth century, and disgusted the Japanese. Very many of the clergy, forgetful of the spirit of their office, instead of rebuking these sins, rather gave their countenance to their wealthy countrymen, and often sustained their acts without inquiring into their propriety. Indeed, their own pride quite equalled that of the laity ; and even the native Christians are said to have been both sliocked and disgusted when they saw that their spiritual instructors were quite as diligent in the effort to acquire their property as in the endeavor to save their souls. The Japanese traditions, to this day, represent the downfall of Christianity in the Empire as having been, in part at least, produced by the avarice, sensuality, and pride of the ecclesiastics. They treated with open contempt the institutions and customs of the country, and insulted the highest officials of the government by studied indignities. A circumstance is related as having occurred in 1596, which is said to have been the immediate cause of the great persecution. A Portuguese bishop was met on the high road by one of the highest officers of the State on his way to court. Each was in his sedan. Tlie usage of the country required that, 4 J 26 INTRODUCTION. in such case, the conveyance of the bishop shoukl be stopped, and that he shonhl alight and pay his respects to the nobleman. Instead of conforming to this established act of courtesy, tlie bishop took not the least notice of the Japanese dignitary, but, turning his head away from him, ordered his bearers to carry him on. The insult, evidently intended, was so gross that the grandee took mortal offence, and confounding the Portuguese generally with their haughty clergy, he conceived toward all an implacable resentment. He forthwith presented his grievance to the Emperor, and touched his sense of dignity and national pride by a strong picture of the vanity and insolence of the Portuguese. Taiko, of whom we have already spoken, was at that time Emperor, and he was the last man to permit the laws and customs of his Empire to be treated with contempt by a set of presumptuous foreigners, who had neither good feeling nor good sense enough to repay the kindness they had received with the decency of common civility. With the Emperor's kind sentiments thus alienated the end was certain ; it involved a question of time only ; and such was the infatuation of these inflated ecclesiastics that this stupid act of episcojDal insolence was perpetrated at a time when the Portuguese, by their pride and avarice, had already lost the best part of the favor they had once possessed. At length a Portuguese ship, on its way from the East to Lisbon, was captured by the Dutch, and among other matters found on board were certain treasonable letters, written by Moro, a native Japanese, to the King of Portugal. Moro was a zealous Komanist, a warm friend of the Jesuits, and one of the chief agents and friends of the Portuguese in Japan. From these letters it appeared that the Japanese Christians, in conjunction with the Portuguese, were plotting the overthrow of the throne ; and all they wanted was a supply of ships and soldiers from Portugal. It may be difScult to ascertain, with certainty, all the details of the conspiracy ; but of the consp iracy itself there can be no doubt. The Dutch, who were the sworn foes of the Portuguese, lost no time in communicating the intercepted letters to the authorities of Japan, and the result was that in 1637 an imperial proclamation decreed that " the whole race of the Portuguese, with their mothers, nurses, and whatever belongs to them, shall be banished forever." The same proclamation forbade, under penalty of death to those concerned, any Japanese ship, or native of Japan, to depart from the country. It directed that any Japanese returning home from a foreign country should be put to death; that any person presuming to bring a letter from abroad should die; that no nobleman or soldier should purchase anything from a foreigner ; that any person propagating Christian doctrines, or even bearing the title of Christian, should suffer ; and a reward was offered for the discovery of every priest, as well as of every native Christian. Under these severe edicts some of the Portuguese were at once frightened out of the country. Others, however, lingered, cooped up in their factory at Dezima, hoping that the tempest would presently pass over, and that they might resume their traflSc. But the Emperor was firmly resolved to root them out forever, and forbade them ever to import even the goods of their own country ; and so ended the trade of the Portuguese with Japan, and the toleration of the Christian religion in the Empire. The writers of the church of Eome assert that it was owing to the malice and misrepresenta- tions of the heretical Dutch that the missionaries and early Japanese converts were exposed to the persecutions, which afterward resulted in the expulsion of Christianity. An examination of dates, however, will show that this statement is entirely erroneous. The Portuguese, clerical and lay, must blame theinselves only for their final expulsion. Doubtless, the Dutch, as we shall INTRODUCTION. 27 see jiresently, were ready enough to give increased impetus, whenever they could, to the tide of calamity which ultimately overwhelmed their rivals, hut that tide had commenced its flow, in the form of persecution of Christianity, fully three years before a Dutchman set foot in Japan. It began, as we have said, in the quarrels of the monastic orders themselves. It would be wrong to leave this brief sketch of the Portuguese relations with Japan without bearing witness to the noble constancy of the thousands of native Christians who were put to death for their religion. The history of Christianity's persecutions contains no more touching chapter than that which records the cruel torments and heroic Christian courage of men, women, and even children, as they bore testimony to the sincerity of their Christian convictions. THE DUTCH. It is to an Englishman that the Hollanders are indebted for an introduction to Japan, and for the establishment of their earliest commercial relations. After the grant by the Pope of all the western and about half the eastern hemisphere to the Spaniards and Portuguese, these people, who were then not without naval strength, were unwilling to allow any share of trade to the other powers of Europe ; and, whenever they could, they seized their unarmed vessels as contraband, if they found them within the imaginary limits of their Papal grant, confiscated their cargoes, and treated their crews as sea-thieves and smugglers. The Dutch and English, who had no respect for the Pope's geography, and as little faith in his religion, denied his title to the ownership of the whole earth, and profanely likened him to Satan when he ofiered to our Lord whole kingdoms, in which he had not title in fee to a single square foot. But as Spain and Portugal were, in the assertion of their title, as much in the habit of relying on powder and ball as on men's conscientious submission to the decrees of the holy father, the Dutch and English rarely sent out their ships, and especially to the "south seas," without taking care to arm them ; and commonly they dispatched them in squad- rons. Thus, cruising in company, they went wherever they thought they could find a profit- able trade ; and deemed it a religious duty (which they scrupulously performed) to seize and plunder, whenever they could, any Spanish or Portuguese ship, and to make a descent on their coasts, and burn their colonial towns and villages. Whoever would read the story of their wild, exciting, and often romantic adventures, may find them in Esquemeling's or Burnet's histories of the buccaneers. The hatred between Spain and Portugal on the one side, and the Dutch and English on the other, was intense. Differing in religion, the first named had no gentler epithets to apply to their enemies than "vile Lutherans," "schismatics," "accursed heretics ; " while the latter repaid them, by applying the equally mild terms of "lying Papists," "foul idolaters," " worshippers of wood and rotten bones." This state of embittered feeling prevailed all through the reigns of Elizabeth, James I., and Charles I. of England, and ceased only in the time of William III., when the peace of Kyswick allowed, on the part of Spain and Portugal, a little freedom of commerce to other nations, who, by the way, were becoming more powerful than the Spaniards and Portuguese on the Pacific and the eastern waters. It was during this period of national animosity, in the latter part of the reign of Elizabeth, that the Dutch made their way to Japan. A fleet of five sail of Dutch ships, under the com- mand of Jaques Mahu, left the Texel on the 24th of June, 1598. It was sent out by the Indian Company of Holland ; and on board of the admiral's ship was William Adams, as pilot. Adams 28 INTEODUCTION. has told his own story with captivating simplicity ; and it has heen preserved in the pages of that worthy compiler, honest old Purchas. He tells us as follows: "Your worships will understand that I am a Kentish man, Lorn in a town called Grillingham, two English miles from Eochester, and one mile from Chatham, where the queen's ships do lie." After stating that he was regularly apprenticed and bred a seaman, he thus proceeds : "I have served in the i)lace of master and pilot in her Majesty's ships, and about eleven or twelve years served the worshipful company of the Barhary merchants, until the Indian traffic from Holland began; in which Indian traffic I was desirous to make a little experience of the small knowledge which God has given me. So, in the year of our Lord God 1598, 1 hired myself for chief pilot of a fleet of five sail of Hollanders," &c. But the " little experience" of our English pilot proved both long and sad. Sickness broke out in the ships, the admiral and a great many of the men died ; after divers calamities they reached the Straits of Magellan in April, 1599 ; they were forced, not by any fault of Adams but by the folly of the commander, to winter in the Straits, remaining in them nearly six months, until provisions were exhausted and some of the men actually died of hunger. At length, after getting into the Pacific, storms dispersed the fleet ; some were lost, some captured ; the savages on the islands where they landed in search of food and water, in more than one instance, lay in ambush and murdered the men ; and finally, after great suifering, it was resolved, on Adams' advice, to make for Japan. Of the five ships that had left Holland together there remained but the one of which Adams was pilot. But he kept a stout heart, and at last, on the 11th of April, ICOO, he saw the high lands of Japan in the province of Bungo, and on the 12th came to anchor, when there were actually but five men of the whole ship's company able to go about and do duty. They were hospitably received, soldiers were placed on board to prevent a robbery of their goods, a house was provided for the sick, and their bodily wants were all supplied by the prince of Bungo, who sent word to the Emperor of their arrival. The Portuguese, it will be remembered, were already established in Japan, and one of their commercial depots was at Nagasaki. Five or six days after the arrival of the Dutch, there came from that place a Portuguese Jesuit, with some of his countrymen and some Japanese Christians. The former of these immediately denounced the Hollanders as pirates, denying that they had come for any purposes of trade, as they alleged, though their ship had a full cargo of merchandize on board. This created a prejudice against them in the minds of the Japanese, and the poor Hollanders lived in daily expectation of being put to death. This was precisely what the Portuguese would have been glad to see, influenced by the double motive of hatred of heretics and the wish to monopolize trade. But the case having been submitted to the Emperor, who was then at Osaca, he ordered tliat Adams and one of the Dutch sailors should be sent to him. He was sent accordingly, and furnishes a long and interesting account of his interview with the monarch, (conducted through the medium of a Portuguese interpreter,) in the course of which Adams had an ojiportunity of showing the Emperor samples of the merchandize he had brought with him, and of begging that he and his companions might have liberty to trade, as the Portuguese had. An answer was returned in Japanese, but Adams did not understand it, and he was carried to prison, but his comforts seem to have been duly regarded. He remained in prison forty-one days, during all which time, as he subsequently discovered, the Jesuits and Portuguese residents spared no eftorts to induce the Emperor to put INTRODUCTION. 29 all the Dutch ship's company to death as pirates. At last the Emperor answered their appli- cation with equal justice and good sense, by telling them that, as yet, the Dutch had done no hurt to him or any of his people, and that therefore he had no just cause to take their lives ; nor could he find any sufficient reason for such severity as they desired in the fact that wars existed between Portugal and Holland, with which he had nothing to do. At length he summoned Adams before him again, and asked of him a great many questions. Finally, he enquired of him whether he would like to go to his ship again to see his companions ? Upon his answering affirmatively he bade him go, and this was the first intimation Adams had that the ship had been brought by the Emperor's order to Osaca, and that his companions were alive. Everything was now taken out of the vessel, which was ordered to a spot nearer to Jeddo, whither the Emperor had gone. Tlie whole ship's company were liberally provided for at the expense of the government. Presently, they petitioned that they might be permitted to take their vessel and depart, but the Emperor would not consent. Finally, at the expiration of two years, during which time they had been at liberty and mingled freely with the Japanese, they were informed that they could not have their ship any more, and that they must make up their minds to live, for the rest of their days, happily and peacefully in Japan. Hereupon the Dutchmen dispersed themselves, going where they pleased, and living comfortably enough upon the daily allowance made them by the Emperor. Adams, however, remained about the court, and, by his ingenuity and good qualities, soon made friends, and gradually rose in the esteem of the Emperor until he attained to a high position of honor in the country. He taught his majesty some of the principles of mathematics, and built for him two vessels. These things gave to him such commanding influence, that even the Jesuits and Portuguese, who, for the reasons already mentioned, were gradually losing favor, were glad to secure his friendly inter- position with the Emperor for their benefit. At length, in 1609, two armed Dutch ships came to Japan. Their object was to intercept and make prize of the large Portuguese carrack which made the yearly voyage from Macao to Japan with merchandize for the established trade. They were, however, a few days too late for her capture, and so they put in at Firando, and the commanders went thence to the court of the Emperor. Here William Adams, being the chief negotiator for them, they were kindly received, and obtained the Emperor's free pass, and permission for their nation to send annually a ship or two for purposes of trade ; and this was the beginning of the Dutch commerce with Japan. Adams, as we have said, rose to high distinction. He thus describes his situation: "Now for my service which I have done and daily do, being employed in the Emperor's service, he hath given me a living like unto a lordship in England, with eighty or ninety husbandmen, who are as my servants and slaves. The precedent was never done before. Thus, God hath provided for me after my great misery ; to his name be the praise forever. Amen." But, with all this external prosperity, poor Adams had a heartsore that could not be healed in Japan. He had left a young wife and two children in England, whom he tenderly loved. Some of the most affecting passages he has written are those in which he alludes to his family, and expresses the dreadful apprehension that he should never see them again. There are such honest, natural outpourings of a true and faithful heart in these passages, that it is impossible to read them without the deepest sympathy. The Emperor was not willing he should go at all. Had he been willing, Adams could not have gone in the Portuguese ships, which were, at first, the only vessels that came annually for trade ; birt when he liad successfully negotiated for the 30 INTKODUCTION. Dutcli, his hopes of once more seeing his family hegan to revive. He thought that in some of their vessels God might at last provide a way for his return to England. But, though thus saddened at heart, he never lost his self-j)ossession and prudence. He thought that, should he never he ahle to go himself, he might at least let his beloved family know where he was, and assure them of his unabated affection. From the Dutch ship which came in 1611, he for the first time learned that his countrymen, the English, were carrying on considerable trade in the East Indies, and had made a humble beginning, in the way of factories, on the Malabar coast. He, of course, knew not who of his countrymen might be there, or elsewhere in the east, but whoever or wherever they might be, they were English, and through them he might tell the sad story of his thirteen long years of separation from home and wife and children. He accord- ingly wrote two long letters, the one addressed to his wife, the other endorsed as follows : "To my unknown friends and countrymen, desiring this letter, by your good means or the news or copy of this letter, may come to the hands of one or many of my acquaintance in Limehouse or elsewhere, or in Kent, in Gillingham by Eochester." The last sentence in this is in these words : " Thus, in short, I am constrained to write, hoping that by one means or other, in process of time, I shall hear of my wife and children ; and so with patience I wait the good will and pleasure of God Almighty, desiring all those to whom this my letter shall come to use the means to acquaint my good friends with it, that so my wife and children may hear of me ; by which means there may be hope that I may hear of my wife and children before my death ; the which the Lord grant to his glory and my comfort. Amen. "Done in Japan, the two and twentieth of October, 1611, by your unworthy friend and servant to command in what I can, "WILLIAM ADAMS." In both these letters Adams related the principal occurrences that had befallen him since he left the Texel, and from these we have drawn the facts previously related. The letters did reach England, but whether they found his wife and children living, or whether he ever heard from them we cannot tell. As to himself, he might have sadly appropriated the words of the poet : " Nor wife nor children more shall he behold, Nor friends nor sacred home." He died at Eirando, in Japan, in 1619 or 1620, after having resided there from the year 1600; and we have dwelt the longer on his personal history, not merely on account of its melancholy interest, but because when we come to speak of the doings of his own countrymen in Japan, these letters will be necessary to elucidate our narrative. Leaving now these letters, we proceed with the history of the Dutch commerce. The first factory of the Hollanders was at Eirando, and was on an humble scale. That of the Portuguese was at Nagasaki, on the island Dezima, which is now occupied by the Dutch. The rivalry between the two establishments was, of course, very great, and each sought to injure the other as much as possible with the Japanese authorities. At length, before the close of 1639, the Portuguese were totally expelled the country ; and then occurred an act on the part of the Dutch in Japan too clearly proved to admit of denial, and too wicked and infamous to allow of palliation. It was no better than cold blooded murder, prompted by no higher motive than the base love of commercial gain. The facts were these : Though no Portuguese Christian remained in Japan, yet tlie native Christians were not all extirpated. Tliese poor creatures, deprived of INTRODUCTION. 31 their European teachers, persevered in their faith, though threatened with imprisonment, torture, and death. Oppression presently drove them into open rebellion, and they took refuge and made a stand against the imperial forces in Simabara. The Japanese authorities called on the Dutch to assist them in making war against these Christians, and the Dutch did it. Kocke- hecker was then director of the Dutch trade and nation in Japan. The native Christians had endeavored to fortify themselves in an old town, which the troops of the Emperor could not take. A Dutch ship was lying at Firando, and on board of this Kockebecker repaired to Simabara, and battered the old town with the ship's guns as well as from a battery he had erected on shore. After a fortnight of this work the Japanese were satisfied to discharge the Dutch director ; for though the Christians had not surrendered, yet they had lost so many of their number and the place was so weakened that it was obvious it could not hold out much longer. Eequiring, therefore, of the Dutch director that he should land six more guns for the use of the Emperor, they dismissed him. The place was finally taken, after a very large number of the besieged had perished by famine, and a total massacre of men, women and children followed ; not one was spared. We have spoken of this act as perpetrated by the Dutch in Japan, for we cannot deem it fair to involve every Hollander in an indiscriminate censure. There were other Dutch ships at Firando beside that which was employed in the bombardment ; but the commanders of these, either suspecting, or having.intimation that the Japanese would demand aid at their hands, quietly left their anchorage, and went to sea before the demand was made, and thus escaped participation in this atrocious wickedness. To us it seems that the infamy must rest chiefly on the Dutch director, and that M. Kockebecker deliberately preferred this most foul murder of the innocent to the loss or interruption of the Dutch trade. Be this as it may, i\efact is distinctly admitted by all the Dutch writers on Japan from the middle of the seventeenth century up to Fischer's work, published in 1833. It is true, one says, that the Dutch were compelled to do it ; another states, that the Dutch only supplied cannon, powder, and ball, taught the Japanese artillery practice, and sent ammunition, arms, and troops in their ships to the scene of action ; but old Ksempfer, who, though in the Dutch service as a physician, was by birth a German, afSrms positively that the Dutch were active as belligerents. Fraissinet (a recent French writer) endeavors to give a different coloring to the fact, but, as we think, in vain. He represents the case as one of political rebellion, in which the native Christians took sides with the rebels ; and is pleased to consider the Dutch as allies merely of the Emperor, carrying on a lawful war as allies ; and he says that the archives of the Dutch factory at Dezima, as well as the relations of natives of respectability, acquit the Hollanders of all blame. What the archives of the Dezima factory may now state, we have not the means of knowing, and we are not furnished by the French apologist with their language ; but it is certainly very remarkable, if they do contain exculpatory evidence, that the Dutch writers, all of whom were officials at Dezima, and many of whom lived much nearer to the time of the transaction than an author of this day, should have overlooked this evidence ; particularly when some of them seek to palliate the act itself. Surely the Dezima records were open to Fischer, the last Dutch writer on the subject, (1833 ;) why, then, instead of producing them, does he admit the fact, and urge in extenuation compidsion of the Dutch by the Japanese? As to the relations of respectable natives, we can only say we have never seen, in any work on Japan, such relations as M. Fraissinet has named. But there is one fact which, as it seems to us, conclusively negatives the supposition that it was a mere political insurrection which the Dutch assisted in suppressing. Over the vast common grave in which these unhappy 32 INTRODUCTION. Cliristians were Ijuriecl at Simabara was Bet up, by imperial order, the following impious inscription : "So long as the sun shall warm the earth, let no Christian he so hold as to come to Japan ; and let all know that the King of Spain himself, or the Christian's God, or the great God of all, if he violate this command, shall pay for it with his head." And now, as to what respectable natives really did say about this sad transaction, let us hear one who was on the spot, honest old Kasmpfer. He was the physician in the Dutch service, and thus writes : " By this submissive readiness to assist the Emperor in the execution of his designs, with regard to the final destruction of Christianity in his dominions, it is true, indeed, that we stood our ground so far as to maintain ourselves in the country, and to be permitted to carry on our trade, although the court had then some thoughts of a total exclusion of all foreigners whatsoever. But many generous and noble persons at court, and in the country, judged unfavorably of our conduct. It seemed to them inconsistent with reason that the Dutch should ever be expected to he faithful to a foreign monarch, and one, too, whom they looked upon as a heathen, while they showed so much forwardness to assist him in the destruction of a people with whom they agreed in the most essential parts of their faith, (as the Japanese had been well informed by the Portuguese monks,) and to sacrifice to their own worldly interest those who followed Christ in the very same way, and hoped to enter the Kingdom of Heaven through the same gate. These are expressions which I often heard from the natives when the conversation happened to turn upon this m/)urnful subject. In short, by our humble complaisance and connivance, we were so far from bringing this proud and jealous nation to any greater confidence, or more intimate friendship, that, on the contrary, their jealousy and mistrust seemed to increase from that time. They both hated and despised us for what we had done." This, then, is the testimony as to the opinion of the natives who knew something of the occurrences ; and it is a sad reflection, that, in the work of exchiding Christianity from Japan, Komanists and Protestants alike bore their part. Neither can, with justice, reproach the other. If the worldliness and pride of the Portuguese Christian prompted him to conspiracy, and drove him and his companions from the Empire, the avarice and cruelty of the Dutch professed believer finished the work, and extirpated the last remnant of the faith in the destruction of the native followers of Christ. True Christianity indignantly disowns both. In 1641, the Dutch were ordered to remove their factory from Firando_, where they were comfortable and unrestrained, and to confine themselves to the now forsaken station of the Portuguese at Dezima, a miserable little island in the port of Nagasaki, " more like a prison than a factory," says Ktempfer. Here they were placed imder a surveillance the most rigid, and subjected to many a humiliating degradation . "So great' ' (says our honest old German) ' ' was the covetousness of the Dutch, and so strong the alluring power of the Japanese gold, that rather than quit the prospect of a trade, (indeed, most advantageous^) they willingly underwent an almost perpetual imprisonment, for such, in fact, is our residence at Dezima, and chose to sufler many hardships in a foreign and heathen country ; to be remiss in performing divine service on Sundays and solemn festivals ; to leave off praying and singing of psalms ; entirely to avoid the sign of the cross, the calling upon the name of Christ in the presence of the natives, and all the outer signs of Christianity ; and, lastly,' patiently and submissively to bear the abusive and injurious behavior of these proud infidels towards us, than which nothing can be offered more shocking to a noble and generous mind." And to such humiliation have they submitted even to this day. Dezima is shaped like a fan ; and the island is, for the most part, of artificial INTRODUCTION. 33 construction. Its greatest length is about COO feet, and its greatest breadth about 240. A small stone bridge connects it with the town of Nagasaki ; at the end of this bridge there is always stationed a strong Japanese guard, and no one passes either to or from the island without license. The whole island is surrounded with a high fence, on the top of which are jjlaced iron spikes. Two water gates, on the north side of the island, are opened to let in the Dutch ships when they arrive, and are at all times kept shut save at the ingress and egress of these vessels. The Dutch are not permitted to build a house of stone on the island, and their miserable habitations are of fir wood and bamboo. The island has on it, at all times, Japanese spies, in the situations of interpreters, clerks, servants, &c., whom the Dutch are obliged to pay ; and is beside subject at any moment to the intrusion of the police of Nagasaki. In short, a more annoying and thorough system of imprisonment and espionage was never devised. When a ship arrives, the first act is to take out of her all her guns and ammunition. She is then searched in every part, and an exact list is made of the goods and everything else she has on board. The crew are then permitted to land on Dezima, where they are kept, as long as the ship remains, under the inspection of guards. Every Japanese official, whose business is with the Dutch at the factory, is bound twice or thrice in a year to take a solemn oath of renunciation and hatred of the Christian religion, and is made to trample under his feet crosses and crucifixes. It is not true, however, as has been stated, that the Dutch also are required to perform this act ; but they dare not say openly that they are Christians. A story is told of one who, in the time of the great persecution at Nagasaki, being asked by the Japanese poliqe "if he were a Christian," replied : "No! I am a Dutchman." With such an exhibition of Christianity, who wonders that the Japanese despise it. Formerly the chief of the factory, with the physician and some other officials at Dezima, visited the Emperor at Jeddo annually, and made to him costly presents. The visit is now quadrennial. On these occasions the Europeans had an opportunity of seeing and knowing something of Japan ; and almost all they have published to the world has been gathered in these periodical journeys to the capital. The story, however, is so uniform that we are constrained to believe there is a well defined class of objects and subjects with which alone the strangers are permitted to come into communication. Kfempfer says that in his time (1690-'92) the Dutch were allowed, while the ships were away, once or twice in the year, to walk into the country in the neighborhood of Nagasaki ; but they were always objects of suspicion and surrounded by spies. At present, (as we learn from Siebold,) if a member of the factory wishes such recreation, he must petition the governor of Nagasaki twenty-four hours beforehand ; leave is granted, but the Dutchman is accompanied by a swarm of interpreters, policemen, (banyoos, as they are called,) and other official spies to the number of some twenty-five or thirty persons. Each of these, too, may invite as many of his acquaintance as he pleases, and the unfortunate Dutchman must entertain them all. This heavy expense is doubtless designed by the Japanese to prevent the members of the factory from leaving Dezima. Nothing is more obvious than that the Japanese, as a people, have but little respect for the Dutch. Thus, when one of the factory goes out on leave, the boys follow him in a crowd, hooting and shouting, Holanda! Eolanda! or, as they pronounce it, Eoranda! Horanda! The gentleman, in pursuit of pleasure and the picturesque, is not allowed to enter any private residence during his ramble, and he must be back at Dezima by sunset. If a Dutchman, at any time, wishes to visit a private acquaintance, or is invited by an inhabitant of Nagasaki to 5 J 34 INTRODUCTION. partake of his hospitality, he must present a petition to the governor, and obtain sj)ecial permission to go ; while on the visit, he is surrounded by spies as usual. And to all this humiliation, the Dutch have submitted, for more than two hundred years, for the purpose of securing the monopoly of the Japanese trade I THE ENGLISH. We must now remind the reader of the letters written by William Adams, one of which was addressed to any of his countrymen in the east into whose hands Providence might cause it to fall. Adams was, in truth, the founder of the English as he had been of the Dutch trade. The letters he wrote reached Batavia, and were thence sent to London, where they were submitted to a corporation then known as the " Worshipful Fellowship of the Merchants of London, trading into the East Indies," but in later times by the far more celebrated name of the " Honorabla East India Company." No time was lost by the corporation in dispatching a ship for Japan, and Purchas has preserved for us the history of the voyage. The vessel was called the Clove, and was commanded by Captain John Saris, who had already made several voyages to the east. Taking on board such a cargo as was deemed suitable, and furnished with a letter from King James I. to the Prince of Firando, and one also, with presents, to the Emperor, Saris left Eng- land on the 18th of April^ 1611, and stopping and trading at various places on the way, reached Firando on the lltli of June, 1613, when the English met with a most iriendly reception from the natives. Saris found on his arrival that Adams was at Jeddo, nearly 900 miles distant, and imme- diately put himself in communication with him, desiring him to repair at once to Firando. Until he came he carried on his conferences with the Japanese, by means of a native of the country whom he had picked up at Bantam, and who spoke the Malay language, which Saris understood. Saris delivered the King's letter to the Prince of Firando, Foyne Sama, who received it with pride, but would not open it until Adams (whom they called Ange) should arrive to interpret it. The Prince also sent intelligence to the Emperor of the arrival of the Clove. On the 29th of July Adams arrived, and Saris conferred with him on the subject of trade ; and let us hope he had also something to tell him of his wife and children. Early in August Saris left Firando for Jeddo, having in his company Adams and ten other Englishmen. The purpose of the visit was to offer to the Emperor the presents of the English King, and to nego- tiate a treaty. The Prince of Firando furnished the party with one of his own galleys of fifty oars. Saris gives us the particulars of his journey, which are not without interest, especially as it respects the manners and customs of the people, which (as there were then no restrictions on the intercourse with foreigners, and as he had Adams for a companion) he had ample opportunity of seeing imder the most favorable circumstances. At length he had an interview with the Emperor, by whom he was graciously received, and from whom, after some little negotiation between Saris and the Emperor's secretary, he obtained privileges of trade, as follows : " 1 . We give free license to the subjects of the King of Great Britain, viz : Sir Thomas Smith, governor, and the company of the East Indian merchants and adventurers, forever safely to come into any of our ports of our Empire of Japan, with their ships and merchandise, without any hindrance to them or their goods ; and to abide, buy, sell, and barter, according to their own manner with all nations ; to tarry here as long as they think good, and to depart at their pleasure. INTRODUCTION. 35 "2. We grant unto them freedom of custom for all such merchandises as either now they have hrought, or hereafter shall bring into our Kingdoms, or shall from hence transport to any foreign part ; and do authorize those ships that hereafter shall arrive and come from England to proceed to present sale of their commodities, without further coming or sending up to our court. " 3. If any of their ships shall happen to be in danger of shipwreck, we will our subjects not only to assist them, hut that such part of ship and goods as shall be saved be returned to their captain or cape merchant, or their assigns. And that they shall or may build one house or more for themselves in any part of our Empire where they shall think fittest, and at their departure to make sale thereof at their pleasure. " 4. If any of the English merchants or others shall depart this life within our dominions, the goods of the deceased shall remain at the dispose of the cape merchant ; and that all offences committed by them shall be punished by the said cape merchant, according to his discretion ; and our laws to take no hold of their persons or goods. "5. We will that ye our subjects trading with them for any of their commodities pay them for the same, according to agreement, without delay, or return of their wares again unto them. " 6. For such commodities as they have now brought^ or shall hereafter bring, fitting for our service and proper use, we will that no arrest be made thereof; but that the price be made with the cape merchant, according as they may sell to others, and present payment upon the delivery of the goods. " 7. If in discovery of other countries for trade, and return of their ships they shall need men or victuals, we will that ye our subjects furnish them for their money as their need shall require. "8. And that, without other passport, they shall and may set out upon the discovery of Jesso or any other jjart in or about our Empire." These certainly were privileges of the most liberal kind, and conclusively show that the original policy of Japan was not at all one of exclusion ; and that Europeans may thank themselves for the introduction of that rigorous system which has so long shut her ports against the commerce of nearly all the civilized world. The Japanese, when they discovered that foreigners were conspiring to take their country from them, did not choose to permit it ; and, as the shortest mode of preventing it, sent out such foreigners as were in the country, and forbade any more to come in. Now, whatever doubts may be entertained as to the wisdom or expediency of such a remedy, no sane man will question the right, or find fault with the desire, of the Japanese to keep Japan for themselves. If, ixnfortunately, some of the conspirators were European ecclesiastics, they justly paid the penalty of expulsion from the kingdom for making their religion a part of their politics. The blunder was their own, not that of the Japanese. The Emperor also sent by Captain Saris the following letter to the King of England : " To the King of Great Britain : "Your Majesty's kind letter sent me by your servant, Captain John Saris, (who is the first that I have known to arrive in any part of my dominions,) I heartily embrace, being not a little glad to understand of your great wisdom and i^ower, as having three plentiful and mighty kingdoms under your powerful command. I acknowledge your Majesty's great bounty in sending me so undeserved a present of many rare things, such as my land affordeth not, neither have I ever before seen, which I receive not as from a stranger, but as from your 36 INTRODUCTION. Majesty, whom I esteem as myself. Desiring the continuance of friendship with your highness — and that it may stand with your good liking to send your subjects to any jmrt or port of my dominions, where they shall be most heartily welcome, applauding much their worthiness in the admirable knowledge of navigation, having with much facility discovered a country so remote, being no whit amazed with the distance of so mighty a gulf, nor greatnes.s of such infinite clouds and storms, from jirosecuting honorable enterprises of discoveries and merchan- dizing — wherein they shall find me to further them according to their desires. I return unto your Majesty a small token of my love, (by your said subject,) desiring you to accept thereof, as from him that much rejoiceth in your friendship. And whereas your Majesty's subjects have desired certain privileges for trade, and settling of a factory in my dominions, I have not only granted what they demanded, biit have confirmed the same unto them under my broad seal for better establishing thereof. " From my castle in Surunga, this fourth day of the ninth month, in the eighteenth year of our Dairi, according to our computation. Eesting your Majesty's friend. The highest commander in this Kingdom of Japan. "MINNA, MONTTONO. Yd, ye, yeas." [lyeyas.] Three years after this, in 1616, a slight modification was made in the grant of privileges, without, however, injuriously affecting the commercial interests of England. The ships were directed, upon arriving on the coast, to repair to Firando, and carry on all their trade at their factory there. They might, however, in case of opposing winds or bad weather, enter and stay in any harbor of the Kingdom without paying anchorage duties, and though they could not sell, they might freely buy any necessaries their ships required. "When Saris returned to England, he left in charge of the factory he had established at Firando Mr. Kichard Cockes, who had under his direction eight Englishmen, three Japanese interpreters, and two native servants. Among the Englishmen was Adams, whom the company were very glad to employ at a liberal salary. The Protestant factories — Dutch and English — were thus neighbors at Firando, while the Portuguese were at Dezima, in the harbor of Nagasaki, and bore them no good will. The English, however, soon gained the friendship and confidence of the natives, and Cockes paid more than one visit to the Emperor at Jeddo. He remained in the country many years, and, as it would appear from his letters, (printed in Purchas,) had ultimately trouble with his Dutch neighbors, who seem to us, at least, to have systematically acted, from the first hour of obtaining foothold in Japan, upon the policy of driving away all European traders but them- selves. It is a policy from which (notwithstanding their profes.sions) we think they have never swerved. The English company, it is probable, made an injudicious selection of merchandise for shipment to Japan ; at any rate, from this or some other cause, certain it is that the business did not prove remunerative ; and, discouraged by this and some other circumstances, the company, in 1623, after an expenditure of £40,000, voluntarily closed their factory at Firando, and withdrew from the country. But they left with an unstained reputation, and departed with the esteem of the higher classes and the regrets of the more humble. It is useless to indulge in conjecture as to what might have been the present condition of Japan had they remained. Possibly, long ere this, she might have had commercial relations established with the rest of the INTRODUCTION, 37 world. The departure of tlie English took place before the bloody persecution of the Christians reached its height. They left native Christians in Japan ; we are not prepared to believe they would ever have deliberately assisted in their extermination. It was, perhaps, fortunate for them that they were out of the Kingdom before the bombardment of Simabara. Thirteen years after the abandonment of their factory, the English were disposed to make a new attempt. Acccordingly, four vessels were dispatched, but they were ungraciously received at Nagasaki, the only port then open to foreigners, and occupied by the Dutch, and they returned without accomplishing their object. The Dutch were now becoming all-powerful in the east ; established on the ruins of the Portuguese dominion at Amboyna and Timor, fortified in Batavia, masters of the Moluccas, Ceylon, tlie coasts of Malabar and Coromandel, they were not likely to admit a rival among them, and to them the English, without doubt justly, attributed the failure of this attempt to re-establish themselves in Japan. But they deemed it best, for a time, to keep still ; dark days were coming upon England ; the country had to pass through the civil wars that marked the reign of the first Charles. It was no time to undertake bold commercial enterprises. The East India Company consequently did but little more for many years than keep up an intercourse with Bantam. They wanted a time of peace and a firmly settled government before they made further efforts. At length, in 1673, the company renewed its efforts to re-enter Japan. It had received a fresb and much enlarged grant of powers from the King, and was in fact made little less than a sovereign power in the east. The ship that was now sent was called the "Return." A journal, as yet unpublished, was kept of the voyage ; and Fraissinet says it is now in the possession of the Southwell family at Loudon. He has had access to it, and furnishes us with many interesting extracts ; observing very justly that it strikingly illustrates three particulars — the remarkable circumspection of the Japanese, their extreme opposition to the introduction of any strangers among them, and, above all, their unappeasable hatred of the Portuguese. Charles II, it will be remembered, had married a princess of Braganza, and was therefore allied to the royal family of Portugal ; and the Dutch were by no means backward in commu- nicating this fact to the Japanese. Accordingly, on the appearance of the English ship in the Japanese waters, she was, from this cause alone, viewed with unusual suspicion. We give from the journal alluded to above, or rather from the French version of it, some of the conversations between the English and the Japanese ofiicials. "Are you English?" "Yes. We have come here with the permission of our sovereign, the King of England, to carry on trade for the East India Company, and re-establish the commerce which our countrymen commenced with you and left fifty years ago. We have letters from our King, and from the company, to his Majesty the Emperor of Japan;" and with this was handed to the Japanese commissioner a copy of the privileges of trade already set before the reader. This was written in the Japanese character. The governor next charged the interpreter to ask ' ' if England was at peace with Portugal and Spain ; if our King had been long married to the daughter of the King of Portugal ; whether there were any children of the marriage; what was our religion, and what sort of merchandize we had?" We answered that just now we are at peace with all the world ; that our King had been married eleven years ; that the Queen had no children ; that we were Christians as the Dutch were, but not papists. As to our merchandize, the cargo of the ship was a general one. 38 INTRODUCTION. At the next interview, the governor said, "it is fifty years since the English were here; we shouhi like to know the reason of your long ahsence." The civil wars of England, two wars with Holland, and the expense and danger of so long a voyage were assigned as reasons and seemed to be satisfactory. The questioning then proceeded : "Have you none among you who have been in this country before ?" "Not one." " How, then, were you able to find your way here?" "By means of marine charts which guided us." "What is the religion of the Portuguese? is it not called Koman Catholic? have they not the image of a woman whom they call Santa Maria, and of a man named Santo Christo? do not they worship these images? and how many other saints have they?" "We cannot answer the last question, not knowing enough of the Eoman religion to do so." " What is your own worship ? Have you also images like the Portuguese?" "No. We are of the reformed religion, which is like that of the Dutch. We offer our prayers to none but to Almighty God, the creator of heaven and earth, who fills all things with his presence. We never make any image or figure to represent him." "Can you tell me who is that Santo Christo, and who is that Santa Maria?" "We call the first the son of God, and the last the Virgin Mary; but we never offer prayers to the Virgin." "How do the Dutch worship God?" "I have told you, as we do." "What do they call him?" "They call him God." "And the Christ?" "They call him Christ?" "What name do you Dutch and English give to the religion of the Portuguese?" "We give the name of the 'Eoman Catholic religion.' " "And what to those who profess it?" "We call them papists, Eomans, Koman Catholics." "What do the Portuguese call you?" "Sereyes in their language, in ours heretics." Just at this moment the British flag was hoisted, when instantly the question was put : "Why do you hoist your flag to-day, and why have you not done it every day since you came in?" "To-day is our Sabbath, and it is our custom always to hoist our flag on the return of the seventh day." "At what times in the day do you pray ?" "Every morning and evening." "And the Dutch, do they the same?" "Certainly." But the St. George's cross in the flag troubled the Japanese, and they made it the subject of many inquiries, desiring to know why it was there. "We do not carry the cross in our colors from superstition, nor does it have any religious meaning there. It is nothing more than our distinctive sign. Beside, our flag and cross and those of the Portuguese are very different." INTRODUCTION. 39 "Have you ever been under the dominion of Portugal or Spain ?" "Never. Our sovereign is King of three great States. He is a prince much more powerful than the King of Portugal." "Is it not then from either of these nations that you have received your cross?" "We have had it from time immemorial ; for six centuries at least." Notwithstanding all these explanations, however, the Japanese officers, not by command, but 23rivately and as friends, advised the English not to hoist the flag with the cross, as a o-reat many of the people mistook it for the Portuguese standard. At length the answer came from the Emperor, to whom had been referred the English application for a renewal of trade. "We have received letters from the Emperor. Your request, as well as the reasons by which you enforced it, have been duly considered. But you cannot be allowed to trade here, because your King has married the daughter of the King of Portugal. That is the only reason why your request is refused. The Emperor orders that you depart and come back no more. Such is his will, and we cannot change it in any particular. You will therefore make sail with the first favorable wind, and at the latest within twenty days." "It is impossible for us to leave before the trade winds change." "■'In that case, how much time do you wish us to grant you?" "Forty-five days ; for in that time I suppose we shall have a change." The English asked permission at least to sell their cargo before going. " The Emperor forbids it ; we dare not disobey. It is your unfortunate alliance with Portugal which stands in your way." And thus ended this attempt to revive the English trade. It may be that other causes beside the Portuguese marriage operated ; and of these the Dutch, it cannot be doubted, would gladly avail themselves ; but if there were no other, then it is quite certain that the Hollanders, by communicating this unpropitious fact to the Japanese, were the sole cause of the exclusion of the English. And such was the opinion of all on board the "Eeturn." More than a century elapsed, after this unsuccessful experiment, before the English made another attempt ; but in 1791, the "Argonaut," which was employed in the fur trade, on the northwestern coast of America, made an effort to barter with the Japanese. On the arrival of the vessel, however, she was immediately surrounded, according to the usual custom, by lines of boats, and no communication was allowed between the ship and the shore. All that was obtained was wood and water, and with these the "Argonaut" took her departure. In 1803 the "Frederick," an English inerchantman, was sent from Calcutta with a cargo to Japan, but was refused admittance to the harbor, and was ordered to dej^art within twenty-four hours. This unceremonious treatment of the English was, undoubtedly, owing to the Dutch. England had made great conquests in India, and securely established her power in the east ; some of these conquests, too, were made at the expense of the Dutch. Under Clive and Warren Hastings all the fond anticipations the Hollanders had formed of a foothold in India had been dissipated. They could not accomplish their wishes, but they could use the very triumphs of their rivals as an instrument in defeating the English efforts to increase their trade. This was to be effected by awakening the jealousy and alarming the apprehensions of the Japanese. These last were uncommonly well informed of the progress of events in India, from the time of Clive downward. Where could they have learned them but from the Dutch? The Hol- landers told the story with such coloring as suited them ; whitewashing their own disgraces and 40 INTRODUCTION. defeats, and covering with blackness the acts of their successful rivals. They thus taught the Japanese to form an idea of the English character and ambition perfectly fatal to the establish- ment of friendly relations. And, unfortunately, in many instances, (one of which, in Japan, we shall detail directly,) the English were furnishing them, from time to time, with abundant material. We do not mean to apologize for England's misdoings in the east ; but we do mean to impute to the Dutch the seeming pursuit, from the very beginning, of a uniform system of policy, which, whether it be so or not, appears, at least, to have sought the exclusion of Portuguese, English, Americans, and every other commercial nation in Christendom, from any participation in the trade with Japan, of which, at the price of a servility utterly unworthy of the noble deeds of Holland's past history, she had procured the monopoly. The next English visit we have to record is that of an armed ship-of-war, in 1808. In October of that year an European vessel, with Dutch colors, appeared off Nagasaki. It was the time when the usual Dutch trader was expected, and M. Doeff was then director of the factory at Dezima. Supposing it to be the expected annual trader from Batavia, two of the employes of the factory, one of whom was a book-keeper, named G-ozeman, put off to the ship ; according to Doeff's account, the native interpreters, who never went on board, reported on their return that the shijj's boat put off on the approach of the boat containing the two Dutch clerks, as if to meet them ; and that the crew of the ship's boat had weapons concealed on their persons. The Japanese boat, with the interpreters, was astern of that from the factory. As the boats approached that of the Dutchmen was boarded from the other and the two employes were forcibly carried, as prisoners, on board the ship. Be this as it may, certain it is that Gozeman and his companion did not return, and that they were detained on board of the strange vessel. The Japanese could not conceal their astonishment, nor understand how Hollanders, in that part of the Kingdom where they were permitted to be, and lawfully employed, too, could be thus treated by men sailing under the Dutch flag. Doeff, however, instantly suspected that the vessel was English, and he knew that war then existed between his own country and England. The governor of Nagasaki, enraged beyond measure, had driven the Japanese interpreters from his presence, and bade them not dare appear before him again without Gozeman and his companion ; and instantly set about making preparations for repelling a warlike attack. But, to his horror, he discovered that, at a strong point on the harbor, where there should have been a garrison of a thousand men, nearly all were absent without leave ; the commander was away, and not more than sixty or seventy soldiers could be mustered. Though it was not the governor's duty to command this point in person, yet to him belonged its oversight ; and from the moment he discovered its condition he considered himself as a dead man. At eleven o'clock that night, Doeff received a note in the hand-writing of one of the detained Dutchmen, in these words : " The ship has come from Bengal. The captain's name is Pellew ; he wants water and provisions." The vessel was H. M. S. Photon, belonging to the squadron of Admiral Drury, cruising in the eastern seas. As we have said, England was at war with Holland, which at that time was a mere dependency of France. The admiral had ordered Captain Fleetwood Pellew to cruise off the Japanese islands, for the purpose of intercepting the Dutch traders to Nagasaki. Captain Pellew, after cruising for a month, supposed that the Dutch vessels might have reached the harbor of Nagasaki, and jjut in to that port in the hope of finding them there. Doeff did not dare to send off water and provisions without the concurrence of the Japanese INTRODUCTION. 41 governor ; and when tlie latter asked his advice ahout acceding to the request^ he declined giving it, and said he conld give no support to anj^ request made by one whom he now knew to he the enemy of his country. In the midst of the embarrassment and confusion of the poor governor, his first secretary made his appearance to submit a proposition, strikingly characteristic of some of the traits of Japanese character : ' ' This, ' ' said he, " is my plan . The foreign ship has entrapped the Dutchmen by treachery ; therefore, all means are lawful to punish the treachery. I will contrive, then, to go on board alone under the guise of friendly professions. I will demand of the captain the two Dutchmen ; if he will not surrender them, I will strike him dead, and then immediately kill myself with a dagger which I will conceal in my bosom. I know that assassination is repugnant to our national character ; but the English commander, who has thus dishonorably invaded our country to attack those whose flag he has usurped for his protection, is worthy of no better fate. In short, to punish him, I am quite willing to sacrifice my life." M. Doeif, however, represented to him that the consequence of this plan would certainly be his own death, and jirobably that of the two Dutchmen on board the ship ; and the governor concurring in this view, the secretary abandoned his desperate scheme. The plan next considered, was to detain the ship on one pretext or another, until the forces of the neighboring princes could be collected for an attack. In the course of the day, how- ever, G-ozeman was sent on shore with a note, as follows : "I have ordered my own boat to set Gozeman on shore to procure me water and provisions. If he does not return before evening, I will enter the harbor early to-morrow morning, and burn the Japanese and Chinese vessels that may be there." Gozeman 's story was, that when he was taken on board, he demanded to see the commander, whereujjon he was carried before a youth, seemingly some eighteen or nineteen years old, who, taking him into the cabin, asked him whether there were any Dutch ships in Japan, threat- ening him with the severest punishment if he should deceive him. G-ozeman told him truly, that the Dutch ships had not arrived that year. The commander, however, pretended to know better ; accused the Dutchman of having spoken untruly, and said he would enter the harbor, and see for himself, and, in case he found any, Gozeman might consider himself a dead man. Accordingly, he did enter in his boat, and made examination, and on his return, told Gozeman it was fortunate for him that his statement had been found true. He then sent him on shore with the note given above, instructing him to return, whether he obtained the supplies or not, and informing him that if he did not come back, his companion, who was kejit on board, should be hanged. The governor was transported with rage when he heard this story, but was finally induced by what Doeff said to him to send off water and iirovisions by Gozeman. Soon after the two Dutchmen were sent on shore in safety. And now the Japanese governor employed himself in taking measures to detain the ship (as was his duty) until the pleasure of the government could be known. But how to do this was a question not very easy of solution. Doeff was again consulted, when he did not conceal the difficulty, not to say the impossibility, of the capture by the Japanese of a British frigate, in a perfect state of warlike equipment. One plan was suggested by the prince of Omura, who promised to take the lead in its execution, and the Japanese by no means lacked the courage necessary to attempt it. They are a brave race. The plan was to man three hundred boats loaded with reeds and straw and other combustibles, 6 J 42 INTRODUCTION. to siiiTuund the frigate aud Lurii lier. The calculation was that if the English destroyed two hundred of the boats, enough would still he left to effect the object. The rowers were to save themselves by swimming. But Doeff advised another course. He recommended to the governor to amuse the com- mander of the ship by promises of water the next day, so as to detain him as long as possible, and to improve the time by causing a number of native boats to go with stones and throw them into the narrow channel by which alone the ship could pass out to the open sea. This he hoped could be done, without discovery by the English, in the course of tlie next day and night ; and the work was ordered ; but before anything was accomplished, a favorable wind sprung up, and the Phaiton stood out to sea. MacFarlane thinks that, anywhere but in Japan, the whole affair, having terminated blood- lessly, would have been laughed at as a clever ruse de guer-i-e ; but it was no matter for mirtli to the unfortunate Japanese officials. The law of the Kingdom had been broken, and the consequence was inevitable. In half an hour after the ship made sail, the governor of Nagasaki was dead by his own hand ; he had followed the custom of the country and disembowelled himself. The officers of the neglected garrison did the same thing ; the interpreters were ordered to Jeddo, and never were seen again in Nagasaki ; nor could the Dutch ever learn their fate; and this "laughable" ruse cost no less than thirteen Japanese lives. The governor of the jjrovince (Fizen) was the officer who had supreme command of the troops that belonged to the garrison ; and was, at the time of the Phaeton's arrival, residing, compulsorily, in the distant capital, (Jeddo,) yet was he punished by an imprisonment of one hundred days for the delinquency of his subordinate officers. The visit of the British frigate therefore brought in its train very sad consequences, creating very strong prejudices against the English, and to this hour it is remembered in Japan with embittered feelings. Five years had elapsed after the visit of the English frigate before another attempt was made. During that period the wars -of Europe bad cut off the Dutch at Dezima, not only from communication with Holland aud her colonies, but with all the rest of the world. They were in profound ignorance of all that had passed in this interval outside of Japan. In July, 1813, they heard with joy that two European ships under the Dutch flag were off the port. They showed also the private Dutch signal, so that M. Doeff had no doubt they were the long expected vessels that had come from Batavia for the annual trade. Letters also were sent on shore to the factory, from which he learned that M. Waardenar, formerly president of the factory, and under whose patronage and friendship M. Doeff had commenced his career as an employ^ at Dezima, was on board one of the ships in the capacity of commissary of the government, with his secretary and physician ; and that on board the other was M. Cassa, accompanied by three assistants, and charged to replace M. Doeff. Immediately the storekeeper, Blomhoff, with another of the Dezima officials, (they had but three left in the whole factory,) put off to meet the ships ; and, on their return, Blomhoff told Doeff that M. "Waardenar was indeed on board, and that the Dutch captain, Voorman, who had often been to Dezima before, commanded ; " but," added he, " everything aboard wore a strange aspect ; and the commissary, instead of confiding to me, as usual, the papers from the government, said he woiild deliver them to you in person." Presently the vessels came into harbor ; and as all the crew spoke English, the Japanese, who had been accustomed to hear that language since 179.5, concluded that the vessels were American, and that they had been INTRODUCTION. 43 hired at Batavia by tlio Dutch, wlio they knew had sometimes sought to carry on their commerce, without risk of capture, under the flag of the United States. To ascertain the truth, M. Doeff himself went on board, when M. Waardenar met him with evident embarrass- ment, and handed him a letter. The Dutch director saw that there was something not yet intelligible to him, and prudently declined opening the letter until he should reach the factory, whither he soon returned accompanied by Waardenar and his secretary. When they reached Dezima, Doeff opened the letter in the presence of Blomhoff and of Waardenar and his secretary. It was signed "Raffles, Lieutenant Governor of Java and its Dependencies," and announced that M. Waardenar was appointed commissary in Japan, with supreme power over the factory. The poor director was utterly bewildered. In his long isola- tion great events, and among them the utter absorption of his own nation into that of France, and the subjugation of all the Dutch colonies, had occurred; and he asked in amazement, "Who is Eaffles?" Then was opened to him the last five years of European history, and he learned that Holland no longer had an independent national existence, and that Java belonged to Eng- land ; that Sir Stamford Eaffles, who ruled there, had appointed Waardenar and Dr. Ainslie, an Englishman, as commissioners in Japan, and required of him a surrender of everything into their hands. It was an ingenious but most hazardous attempt on the part of Eaffles to transfer the trade which the Dutch had so long monopolized to the hands of the English. . Doeff instantly refused compliance, on the ground that Japan was no dependency of Java, and could not be affected by any capitulation the Dutch might have made on the surrender of that island ; and further, that if Java was now an English island, then the order to him came from an authority to which he, as a Dutchman, acknowledging no allegiance to England, certainly owed no obedience. Doeff, who was exceedingly shrewd, saw also in an instant that the ships and crews were completely at his mercy. He had but to tell the Japanese the facts he had just learned, and, exasperated as they were by the affair of the Phaeton, the destruction of the ships and their crews would inevitably follow. He saw his advantage, and shaped his course accordingly. Fraissinet (who in his work on Japan is very much of an apologist for the Dutch in all cases) represents this conduct on the part of M. Doeff as an example of exalted humanity and patriotism ; while MacFarlane intimates that, such was the hatred of Doeff to the English, he would probably have denounced the ships to the Jaj^anese but for the fact that M. Waardenar was his countryman, his friend, and early benefactor. We cannot undertake to arbitrate between these conflicting views, our business is to record the fact that, in the exercise either of loyalty, or friendship, or humanity, as the case may be, he contrived to preserve, in all its purity, the high reputation of the Dutch for taking care of their commercial interests in Japan, at any expense, particularly when such expense could be made to fall upon others. The Dutch factory had for five years been without its annual supplies from Batavia, and had consequently been obliged to contract a large debt to the Japanese for their support during this long period. M. Doeff, after working upon the fears of Waardenar and Ainslie by a threat of exposure to the Japanese, induced them to enter into an arrangement with him, and to bind themselves in writing to the fulfilment of the contract, which was in substance this : In the first place, the ships were to be passed off as being American, employed by the Dutch, for the sake of obtaining the protection of the neutral flag of the United States. Secondly, the presence of M. Waardenar, well known to the JajDanese as a Dutchman, and formerly President of Dezima, was to give countenance to this view. Thirdly, M. Doeff" demanded as the price of holding his 44 INTRODUCTION, tongue, tliat is, as tlie price of saving the lives of Waardenar and the English, that the cargoes of the two ships should he delivered to him, as Dutch factor, in the usual manner ; that he should disjjose of them, and out of the proceeds pay first all that Holland owed the Japanese for the supplies of the last five years. The surplus was to he applied to the purchase of copper, to load the ships as f;xr as possible, tliough the copper was to he estimated at more tlian the usual price to the English purchasers. Finally, it was provided that when the ships reached Batavia and sold the copper, twenty-five thousand rix dollars were to he placed to the personal credit of M. Doeff. On these terms the Dutch director connived at the imposition of a deception upon the Japanese, and successfully managed to secure the silence of such of the interpreters as he could not help trusting with the secret. The ships were loaded and disjiatched as soon as possible, and they certainly encountered no small risk while they remained at Dezima ; for the son of that governor of Nagasaki who killed himself about the affair of the Phaeton was now a man of office and influence at Jcddo, and would undoubtedly have availed himself of the oppor- tunity, had he known it existed, to avenge his father's death. Sir Stamford Kaffles is generally supposed by his best friends to have made a mistake in sending these ships. If Doeff had surrendered the factory, the probability is that as soon as the Japanese discovered it to be transferred, and that, too, without consulting them, they would have destroyed Dezima, and put all the English there to death. In 1814, however, Eaffies sent Cassa back in one of the ships, (Waardenar was probably too wise to put his neck into the halter again,) when the same stratagem was resorted to, the same commercial profit was secured by the wily Dutchman, and Cassa failed entirely in superseding M. Doeif as director of Dezima. The latter was more than a match for him in the game of cunning and trickery by which each sought to countermine the stratagems of the other. Doeff kept Dezima ; and for a time the flag of Holland floated nowhere else in the world but on that distant spot, where it was unfurled by sufferance only. At last, after the restoration of the house of Orange, and the return of Java to»the Dutch, the old trade was resumed, and Doefi" was succeeded by a new director. In 1818, another attempt was made in a little vessel of sixty-five tons, that was commanded by Captain Gordon, of the British navy. She entered the bay of Jeddo, and was immediately surrounded with the usual line of boats. Her rudder was unshipped, and all her arms and ammunition were taken ashore. The interpreters, one of whom spoke Dutch, and one Kussian, and both some English, inquired if the Dutch and English were now friends, and if the vessel belonged to the East India Company? They were c^uite civil, but utterly refused all presents and trade. The last English visit, prior to the time of the United States expedition under Commodore Perry, was in May, 1849. This was made by H. M. S. "Mariner," under Com- mander Matheson. She went to Oragawa, about twenty -"five miles from Jeddo, but nothing of importance resulted from the visit. THE RUSSIANS. The efforts of Eussia to obtain foothold in Jajmn commenced in the latter part of the last century. Her possessions in Asia, her seizure and occupation of some of the Kurile islands which belonged to Japan, and her small portion of territory in America, in the colony at Sitka, have placed her on every side of the Japanese Empire but the south. She has pursued her policy noiselessly ; possibly meaning at the proper time to make her communications as com- INTRODUCTION. 45 plete as circumstances will allow lietwcen lier Asiatic and American possessions. "VVitli Corea, Japan, and the Aleutian islands, stretching over to the promontory of Alaska on our northwest coast, and with a strong point at Sitka, she might be in a situation to show the world that her plans of extension were by no means confined to the limits of the Eastern hemisphere. With harbors on the coasts of Eastern Asia and Western America, opening on a sea which must bo the seat of an immense and lucrative commerce, she might aim to be a great maritime power, and to rule mistress of the Pacific. If she possessed Japan, she would have an abundance of harbors, unrivalled in the world for excellency, and with her resources would control the commerce of the Pacific. It is not, therefore, the interest of any part of the commercial world that "Russia should ever own Jajjan; but Kussia has, doubtless, long seen the importance to her of its acqui- sition. If she aims at being a commercial nation, the possession of Japan would make her eminently so. Some seventy or eighty years ago, a Japanese vessel was wrecked on one of the Aleutian islands belonging to Russia. The crew was rescued, and was carried to the Eussian port of Okotsk, or Irkutzk. Bat, instead of being sent hoem at once, they were detained in Rtissia ten years. The object undoubtedly was, that the Japanese and Russians might learn each others' languages. It seemed to be a small matter, but it had a specific end. At last, the discovery was made that it would be humane to attempt, at least, the return of these poor shipwrecked Japanese to their country. Russia, probably, was ignorant that they would be refused admission. Had they been sent ten years before, the consequences would have been the same ; but Russia did not know this ; and beside, her later efibrt deprives her of any apology for her tardy humanity. Tlie Empress Catharine, however, directed the governor of Siberia to send them back, and to endeavor, through their instrumentality, to establish such mutual relations as might tend to the benefit of both nations. He was ordered to dispatch an envoy, in his own name, with credentials and suitable presents ; and was expressly forbidden to permit any Englishman or Dutchman to be employed in the work. A Russian lieutenant, named Laxman, was the agent employed, and in the autumn of 1792, he sailed from Okotsk, in a transport ship called the " Catharine." He soon made a harbor on the northern coast of the island of Jesso, and there wintered ; in the succeeding summer he went round to the southern coast of the same island and entered the harbor of Hakodadi. The Japanese were polite, but refused to take back their countrymen, informing Laxman that it was against their laws. They also told liim that he had sulyected himself and his crew, as being foreigners, to perpetual imprisonment for landing anywhere in the Kingdom except at the appointed port of Nagasaki ; yet, in consideration of the Russian ignorance of this law, and of tlieir kindness to the shipwrecked Japanese, they would not enforce the law, provided Lieutenant Laxman would promise for himself and his countrymen to return immediately to his own country, and never again come to any part of Japan but Nagasaki. Laxman left without landing the Japanese, and the Empress Catharine made no further attempt during her reign. In 1804, her grandson, the Emperor Alexander, renewed the effort. A government ship, commanded by Krusenstern, was sent to Nagasaki, having on board Resanoff, sent as special ambassador to Japan. He had hardly arrived, however, before he furnished abundant evidence of liis unfitness for the delicate mission with which he was intrusted. He commenced his intercourse with the Japanese oflicials by a dispute on a ridiculous point of etiquette, viz : whether he should make a bow to the Emperor's representatives. Next he positively refused to surrender the arms of the ship, according to the usual custom, though it 46 INTRODUCTION. ■was perfectly useless to retain them, as he had given up all the ammunition to the Japanese. He then very foolishly contrived to convince the inmates of the Dutch factory at Dezima, to whom he hrought letters, that he suspected them of secretly intriguing to defeat his pirrposes with the Japanese ; while, in point of fact, the sagacious Dutchman, Doeff, who had charge of Dezima, was exercising all his ingenuity to pursue such a nicely balanced system of non-committal, that, let the mission terminate as it would, he might he ahle to exclaim, "thou canst not say, /did it," and to turn events to the advantage of himself and his countrymen. But, at last, the ship was broTight into safe anchorage, within the harbor ; and after a great deal of negotiation and delay, consent was given that the Eussian ambassador might live on land until an answer to his message was received from the Emperor at Jeddo. An old fish warehouse was cleaned out and prepared for his reception, and surrounded with a high fence of bamboos. At last, when he was summoned to go to Nagasaki to hear the Emperor's answer to his application, curtains were hung before the houses on each side of the street through which he passed, and the inhabitants were all ordered to keep out of sight, so that he saw nothing of the place. Indeed, as we read the account of Eesanoff's mission, it is liard to resist the belief, that the Japanese took pleasure in mortifying the ambassador, and in overwhelming him, at the same time, with an "affectation of great personal politeness. They kept him waiting, too, until 1805 for his answer ; when it came, it was peremptory enough. " Order from the Emperor of Japan to the Eussian ambassador." "Formerly, our Empire had communication with several nations ; but experience caused us to adopt, as safe, the opposite principle. It is not permitted to the Japanese to trade abroad ; nor to foreigners to enter our country." * * * "As to Eussia, we have never had any relations with her. Ten years ago, you sent certain shipwrecked Japanese to Matsmai, and you then made us propositions of alliance and commerce. At this time you have come back to Nagasaki, to renew these propositions. This proves that Eussia has a strong inclination for Japan. It is long since we discontinued all relations with foreigners generally. Although we desire to live in peace with all neighboring States, the difference between them and us, in manners and character, forbids entirely treaties of alliance. Yourvoyagesandyourlaborsare, therefore, useless." * * * " All commimications between you and us are impossible, and it is my imperial pleasure that, henceforth, you no more bring your ships into our waters." Eesanofi" departed, the Japanese paying all the expenses of the embassy while it was in Japan. It is easy to understand how the indignant Eussian envoy immediately resolved to be revenged for the treatment he had received. He gave 'way to his angry feelings, and proceeding to Kamtschatka, directed two Eussian naval officers, Chwostoff and Davidoff, who happened to be there in the temporary command of two armed merchantmen that traded between Asia and the northwest coast of America, to make a hostile landing upon the most northern Japanese islands, or their dependencies. He, himself, started for St. Petersburg, and died on the way. The Eussian officers did make a descent upon one of the southern Kurile islands that belonged to Japan. That Empire had once owned the whole Kurile archipelago ; but Eussia had contrived, by some means, to possess herself of the northern islands ; and it was doubtful to the Dutch whether this appropriation of territory was even known at Jeddo. It is said not to he unlikely that the prince of these islands, (thus taken by Eussia,) and his spy secretaries, deemed it expedient to conceal from the Emperor this loss of a territory, of but little value, rather than make known an event which would be deemed disgraceful to Japan, and subject them to INTRODUCTION. 47 puuislimcnt. If this be so, they had, of course, to buy up the spies of government. The isLinds were of but little value except from ^Msition. It was precisely on account of their position that Russia desired them. On the southern Kuriles, however, their officers landed, and wreaked their vengeance on the unoffending inhabitants, by plundering their villages, killing some of the peoj)le, and carrying off others in their vessels. This was in 1807. The news of these events filled the Japanese court with surprise and indignation ; and they sought, through the medium of the Dutch, to find out whether they had been authorized by the Emperor of Russia. Some time after, in May, 1811, Captain Golownin, of the Russian navy, was sent in the sloop-of-war " Diana," ostensibly to make a survey of the Kurile group, though it was suspected (not proved) that he had ulterior objects, and was instructed once more to attempt the establishment of commercial relations. When he came to the island Eeterpoo (which Siebold calls letorop) he landed, supposing he would find Kuriles only ; but he was met by a Japanese officer and soldiers, who asked him if the Russians meant to treat them as Chwostoff and Davidoff had treated another island some few years before? Golownin, on this, thought it best to get away as soon as he could. He then went to an island called Kunaschier, and here the Diana was fired ujjon. Golownin, however, strove to show them that his purposes were friendly, and was finally, by the cunning of the Japanese, tempted to land with only a midshipman, pilot, four Russian seamen, and a Kurile interpreter. All were made prisoners, and passed through various adventures, which Golownin has recorded. They were kept prisoners for a long time, avowedly in retaliation for the injuries that had been committed to gratify the angry feelings of Resanofi'; nor would the Japanese release them until they were satisfied that these injuries had not been ordered by the Russian Emperor. When Golownin left he was furnished with a document warning the Russians no more to attempt the impossibility of establishing trade with Japan. It is but just to the Japanese to add that Golownin, notwith- standing all his sufferings, unavoidable in a state of imprisonment, gives to the people of Japan a high character for generosity and benevolence. Thus ended the efforts of Russia, until within a very recent period, of which we shall speak presently. THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. The attempts of our own country are all recent, and need not detain us long. In the year 1831 a Japanese junk was blown off the coast, and, after drifting about for some time in the Pacific, at length went ashore on the western coast of America, near the mouth of the Columbia river. Kindness was shown to the shipwrecked Japanese, and finally they were carried to Macao, where they received the protection and care of the American and English residents. It was determined, after a time, to return the poor creatures to their home. Either their benevolent friends were ignorant of the Japanese law which prohibited the return of natives to Japan, or, if they knew it, they supposed that, at any rate, those who went to Japan on such an errand of mercy would not be molested for entering one of the hai'bors of the Emj)ire. Accordingly the '' Morrison," an American merchantman, was fitted out by the American house of King for the voyage to Japan ; and the more effectually to manifest her purely pacific purposes, all her guns and armanent were taken out. In 1837 she made the voyage, notes of which have been published by Mr. C. W. King, an American merchant of great respectability, who sailed in the "Morrison." The ship reached the bay of Jeddo, and the Japanese very soon found out that she was entirely 48 INTRODUCTION. unarmed and defenceless. The official visitors soon showed their contempt after making this discovery, and early the next day the vessel was fired at with shotted guns. She immediately weighed anchor and ran to Kagosima, the principal town of the island of Kiu-siu, where she again came to anchor. After a while preparations were made here, also, to fire upon the vessel, and hefore she could remove^ a battery opened upon her. The ship then returned to Macao with the Japanese on board. In 184:6 an expedition was sent from the government of the United States to Japan ; its business was, if possible, to open negotiations with the Empire. The ships consisted of the "Columbus," of ninety guns, and the corvette " Vincennes." Commodore Biddle commanded the expedition. In July the vessels reached the bay of Jeddo, and were, as usual, immediately surrounded by the lines of guard boats. On this occasion they numbered about four hundred. Some of the' Japanese went on board the " Vincennes," and one of them placed a stick with some sort of a symbol carved on it at the head of the vessel and another of similar kind at the stern. The act was not perfectly understood by the Americans, but they construed it to mean taking possession of the ship, and ordered the sticks to be taken away. The Japanese complied immediately without making any objection. The ships remained ten days, but no one belonging to them landed, nor was anything accomplished. The answer of the Emperor to the application for license to trade was very short : "No trade can be allowed with any foreign nation except Holland." In February of the year 1849 the United States ship Preble, under Commander Glynn, formed part of the American squadron in the China seas, when information was received, by way of Batavia, of the detention and imprisonment, in Japan, of sixteen American seamen, who had been shipwrecked on the coast of some of the Japanese islands. The Preble was immediately dispatched to demand their release. As the ship neared the coast of Japan, signal guns were fired from the prominent headlands to give warning of the approach of a strange vessel ; and when she entered the harbor of Nagasaki, she was met by a number of large boats which ordered her off, and indeed attempted to oppose further ingress. But the ship steadily standing on with a firm breeze soon broke their ranks, and came to anchor in a desirable position. Fleets of boats, crowded with soldiers, shortly afterward began to arrive, and from that time until the Preble's departure, they poured in, in one constant stream, day and night. The troops they brought were encamped on the elevated shores surrounding the anchorage of the Preble. From these heights also were unmasked, at intervals, batteries of heavy artillery, numbering in all sixty guns, which were trained upon the Preble's decks. Commander Glynn forthwith commenced negotiations for the release of the American seamen, who had been imprisoned for nearly seventeen months, and been treated with great cruelty and inhumanity. When they were first confined, they were made to trample on the crucifix, and were told that it was the "devil of Japan," and that if they refused to trample on it their lives should be taken. When Commander Glynn first demanded the release of the prisoners, the Japanese officials treated the demand with a well affected, haughty indifference ; finding, however, that this would not answer, they resorted to evasive diplomacy ; when the captain of the Preble, with the rough bluntness of a sailor, peremptorily told them, in most unmistakeable language, that they must immediately give up the men, or means would be found to compel them to do so, as the government to which they belonged had both the power and the will to protect its citizens. This very soon changed their tone, and deprecating any angry feeling, a INTRODUCTION 49 promise was immediately made that the men should he sent on hoard in two days from that time. This promise having been fulfilled to the letter, the Preble returned to join the squadron on the coast of China. The next effort made by the government of the United States was that of which the story is told in the subsequent pages of this work. We have thus laid before the reader the chief features of the principal attempts made by civilized nations to open commerce with Japan ; and, in the following tabular view, these may he seen at a glance, and thus, by showing what efforts were simultaneous, we may facilitate, perhaps, the understanding of the subject as a whole. YEAR. PORTUGUESE. DUTCH. ENGLISH. RCSSIAN. UNITED STATES. 1543- '45 1550 Christianity intro- duced ..•>••.■••. 1597 Persecution of Chris- 1600 1609 1613 Saris reaches Firando 1623 1636 Futile attempt to Expelled ftom Japan. Assist in persecuting native Christians.. 1639 1641 Sent to Dezima . • • • > 1673 Attempt again to re- 1791 '^Jlrgonaut's*^ futile 1792 1803 " Frederick's " at- 1804 1807 Descent on Kuriles. , .,,,, .,,, 1808 ^^Phcetons^^ visit un- 1811 Captivity of Captain Defeat Raffles' at- Sir S. Raffles' at- 1813 1814 Defeat Raffles' at- tempt i 1818 1 1837 1846 1849 Glynn, in the Preble. Com. Perry's visit .. 1852 Tj 50 INTRODUCTION SECTION VI. PROGRESS IN INDUSTRIAL ARTS, AND EXTENT OF CIVILIZATION IN JAPAN. The Japanese are an exceedingly industrious and ingenious people, and in certain manufac- tures are surpassed by no nation. Metals. — They work well in iron, copper, gold, and silver, and, indeed, in all the metals they have. Of iron, it is supposed the supply afforded by their country is not large ; still they have extracted the metal from such ores as they possess, and wrought it into shape. Copper is very abundant, and they understand perfectly well the mode of treating the ore, and preparing the metal for market or for manufactures. Gold also exists, and probably to an extent as yet un- developed ; the deposits are likely, we think, to prove large on fiirther and scientific exploration. At any rate, there does not seem now to be any scarcity of it for the purposes to which they apply it. They have silver mines which they work. They know, too, how to make some com- binations of metals which produce a beautiful effect. Thunberg tells us that they work witli great skill in what they call soivas. This is a mixture of gold and copper, which they color with tousche, or ink, making it a fine blue or black, by an art imknown among Europeans. They make steel, and temper their sword blades admirably. Clocks and watches are also made by them, but in these they are not entitled to the merit of invention ; they have copied from European models. The same may be said of their astronomical instruments ; they make very well the metallic portion of telescopes, &c., and buy mirror glasses from the Dutch, which they grind into suitable lenses. They also manufacture excellent metallic mirrors ; and Golownin says, he saw carpenters' and cabinet-makers' tools, particularly saws, made in Japan, quite equal to any English tools of a similar kind. They are exceedingly quick in observing any improvement brought in among them by foreigners, soon make themselves masters of it, and copy it with great skill and exactness. They are very expert in carving metal, and can cast metal statues. Their copper coinage is well stamped, for they are good die-sinkers ; and several of their operations in metal are carried on in very large and well-ordered manufactories. Wood. — No people work better than they can in wood and bamboo, and they jjossess one art in which they excell the world. This is in lacquering wood work. Other nations have attempted for years, but without success, to equal them in this department. In this operation they select the finest wood of fir or cedar to be covered with varnish. They get the gum from which they prepare the varnish from the rhus vernix — a tree that is abundant in many parts of their coTmtry. On puncturing the tree the gum oozes out, of a light color, and of the con- sistence of cream, but on exposure to the air grows thicker and blacker. It is so transparent, that when laid unmixed on wood, the grain and every mark on the wood may be seen through it. They obviate this, however, where it is desirable, by placing beneath the varnish a dark ground, one element in the composition of which is the fine sludge caught in the trough under a grindstone. They also use for the purpose minutely pulverized charcoal, and sometimes leaf gold ground very fine. Tliey then ornament the varnish with figures and flowers of gold and silver. They make, and thus varnish, screens, desks, caskets, cabinets, and other articles, INTRODUCTION. 51 exceedingly beautiful, and of wliicli specimens may from time to time be seen in Europe and in this country. It is, said, however, that the best samples never are sent out of the Kingdom. Glass. — They know how to make this article, and can manufacture it now for any purpose, both colored and uncolored. Formerly they did not know how to make the flat pane for window glass ; and probably what they make is an inferior article, as they still purchase thick mirror glass from the Dutch to grind into lenses. Porcelain. — This they make, and some say in greater perfection than the Chinese can. At any rate, specimens we have seen of Japanese porcelain are very delicate and beautiful ; though some writers tell us, that, owing to the exhaustion of the best clay, they cannot now manufac- ture such as they once could. Paper. — Of this they make an abundance, as well for writing and printing, as for tapestry, handkerchiefs, packing cloths for goods, &c. It is of different qualities, and some of it is as soft and flexible as our cotton cloth. Indeed, that used for handkerchiefs might be mistaken for cloth, so far as toughness and flexibility are concerned. The material of which it is made is the bark of the mulberry, (morus papyri/era,) and the process is described as follows : In December, after the tree has shed its leaves, they cut ofi"the branches about three feet in length, and tie them up in bundles. They are then boiled in a ley of ashes in a covered kettle till the bark is so shrunk that half an iuch of the wood may be seen projecting at either end of the branch. When they have become cool, the bark is stripped off and soaked in water three or four hours until it becomes soft, when the fine black skin is scraped off with a knife. The coarse bark is then separated from the fine ; the new branches make the finest paper. The bark is then boiled again in fresh ley, continually stirred with a stick, and fi-esh water from time to time is added. It is then put in a sieve and taken to a brook, and here the bark is incessantly stirred until it becomes a fine pulp. It is then thrown into water and sej^arates in the form of meal. This is put into a small vessel with a decoction of rice and a species of Hibiscus, and stirred until it has attained a tolerable consistence. It is then poured into a larger vessel, from whence it is taken and put in the form of sheets on mats or layers of grass straw ; these sheets are laid one upon another with straw between, and pressed to force the water out. After this they are spread upon boards in the sun, dried, cut, and gathered into bundles for sale. This paper will better endure folding, and last longer than ours. Woven fabrics. — Tliey make silk, the best of which is superior to that of China. The best silks are woven by criminals of high rank, who are confined upon a small, rocky, unproductive island, deprived of their j)i'operty, and made to support themselves by their labor. The exportation of these silks, it is said, is prohibited. They have but small skill in producing cotton fabrics, though such are made. For many purposes to which we apply cloth of cotton, they use the coarse spongy paper to which we have alluded. They require woollen cloths, for the winters are cold ; but, we believe, they make none. Indeed, they have no sheeii or goats, and therefore lack materials from whicli to make woollen cloths. Leather. — They convert the skins of certain animals into this article ; but, as we have stated on a previous page, all those who have anything to do with the making or vending of leather are outcasts from all the rest of the population and universally proscribed. They never apply the article, as we do, to making shoes, or other coverings for the feet. They hardly ever wear shoes or slippers that are not made of plaited straw. Thunberg says the shoes are always the 52 INTRODUCTION. shabbiest part of the dress of the Japanese. As they are of straw, they consequently last but a little time. But they are made in immense numbers, cost but a trifle, and may be bought in every town and village in the Empire. The pedestrian, therefore, throws away the old ^mir by the road side, and buys new ones as he goes along ; while the more provident man takes two or three pairs with him on starting. Immense numbers of these discarded shoes may be found on the sides of all the roads. In wet weather they wear under the shoe a wooden clog, which is attached to the foot by ties of plaited straw. Dignitaries sometimes wear slijipers made of fine rattan slips neatly plaited. Agriculture. — Japan is very mountainous, as we have already stated ; but with the exception of that portion of the ground covered by the roads, and by the woods left to supjily timber and charcoal, nearly every foot of ground, to the very tops of the mountains, is cultivated. Of animals to assist in culture they have the horse, ox, and a large species of buffalo, which they train to draw carts and carry heavy goods on the back. They plough with both the ox and cow. Of milk and butter they make no use. When they cannot use cattle to plough, as on the steep sides of hills, men are substituted ; and sometimes the plough is laid aside and all the labor in preparing the earth is done by hand. Generally, their soil is rather poor ; but by means of the immense labor they bestow upon it, by irrigation, and, especially, by the use of manures, which they understand well, they make very large crops. Their chief grain is rice, of which they are said to produce the best in all Asia. They also make barley and wheat. The first is used for feeding the cattle ; the other is not much valued, and is chiefly used for cakes and soy. This last is made by fermenting, under ground, wheat with a peculiar kind of bean and salt. Next to rice, in imjjortance, is the tea plant. This was not cultivated in Japan before the beginning of the ninth century, when it was introduced from China. Immense quantities of it are now produced, for its use is universal. Beside the plantations devoted to it, the hedges on the farms are all of the tea plant. Siebold says the finer kinds require great care and skill in the cultivation. The plantations are situated, as far as they conveniently can be, from all other crops and from human habitations, lest the delicacy of the tea should be impaired by smoke or any other impurity. They manure the plants with dried anchovies, and with the juice pressed out of mustard seed. The harvesting is a process of great nicety. Dr. Siebold thinks that the green and black tea are from the same plant, and differ only in the mode of preparation ; though others have said the plants themselves differ. Neither, however, is ever dried on copper, but both are dried in an iron pan. Beans of various kinds are produced, and some other vegetables. Several edible roots are carefully cultivated. They grow the mulberry tree in large quantities for the sake of the silk worm, and also for making paper. In Loo-Choo they make a coarse sugar from the cane ; in Nippon they manufacture it from the sap of a tree. Our farmers deem it a part of their business to rear such animals as we use for food ; but the Japanese farmer is most frequently a Buddhist and cares nothing for animal food. The Dutch, a great while ago, introduced some sheep and goats, and some few may, possibly, still be found in the Kingdom. If attended to they would thrive very well ; but the religion of the natives forbids them to eat the flesh, and they do not know how to manufacture the wool and hair ; hence the animals are little valued. They have, also, a few hogs, which were originally brought from China. Some of the country people near the coast keep them, but not to eat. They sell them to the Chinese junks which are allowed to INTRODUCTION. 53 come over to trade. The Chinese sailor lias a passion for pork. The hog thrives well and becomes very fat in Japan. Horticulture. — In this department the Japanese are very skillful. They possess the art, in a wonderful degree, either of dwarfing, or of unnaturally enlarging all natural productions. As an evidence of the first, may be seen, in the miniature gardens of the towns, perfectly mature trees, of various kinds, not more than three feet high, and with heads about three feet in diameter. These dwarfed trees are often placed in flower pots. Fischer says that he saw In a box four inches long, one and a half wide, and six in height, a bamboo, a fir, and a jjlum tree, all thriving, and the latter in full blossom. As proofs of the last, Meylan tells us that he saw plum trees covered with blossoms, each of which was four times the size of the cabbage rose ; it produced no fruit, however. He also saw radishes weighing from fifty to sixty pounds ; and those of fifteen pounds were not at all uncommon. The fir trees are represented as being forced to an enormous size ; we are told that the branches, at the height of seven or eight feet from the ground, are led out, sometimes over ponds, and supported upon props, so that they give a shade around the tree three hundred feet in diameter. The cedar, also, is a tree which reaches a great size. Navigation. — Formerly the Japanese made voyages, in vessels of their own construction, to Corea, China, Java, Formosa, and other places at some distance from their own islands ; but when the Portuguese were expelled a decree was made that the natives should not leave the country ; bence navigation declined. Still, short coasting voyages are made witliin the bound- aries of the Kingdom ; and fishing-smacks go to sea, but not very far from the coast. This coasting trade, however, is large ; and the Japanese use fish for food so extensively that the number is immense of these trading boats and fishing smacks. The Japanese have the compass ; not divided, however, into as many points as ours. The construction of their vessels, as to model, is very clumsy ; and, as they have seen and examined many European ships, it may seem strange that a people so skilful and ingenious should not, ere this, have improved in naval architecture. The fault is not theirs ; the fact is that they have, in more than one instance, built very good vessels after European models ; but the law has interposed, for a special reason, and retarded improvement among a people wbose insular position would have made them sailors, and whose quick perceptions would have made them good ones if left to themselves. Their craft are, by law, made with the stern open, so that they cannot weather an open and heavy sea. The smaller ones never, if they can help it, go out of sight of laud, and upon any threatening appearance of rough weather they instantly run in to make a harbor. The object of this law of construction is to keep the natives at home. Internal trade hy land and icater. — This is large, resulting from the variety of produce aflbrded by the variety of climate, and from the immense population. In many places, town joins on to town, and village to village, for miles, so that the road looks like a continued street. Kajmpfer thus speaks of the population: "The country is indeed populous beyond expression, and one would scarcely think it possible that, being no greater than it is, it should, nevertheless, maintain and support such a vast number of inhabitants. The highways are almost one con- tinued line of villages and boroughs. You scarce come out of one, but you enter another ; and you may travel many miles, as it were, in one street, without knowing it to be composed of many villages, save by the diflering names that were formerly given them, and which tliey after retained, though joined to one another. It hatli many towns, the chief whereof may, of a 54 INTRODUCTION. certainty, vie with the most considerable in the world for largeness, magnificence, and numher of inhabitants." Kasmpfer says of Jeddo, that he was one whole day, riding at a moderate pace, "from Sinagawa, where the suburb begins, along the main street, which goes across, a little irregularly indeed, to the end of the city." As to the variety of climate and produce, the southern part of the Kingdom, reaching down as low as the twenty-fourth degree of north latitude, produces the sugar cane and the tropical fruits ; while the northern, extending as high up as fifty degrees, yields the products of the temperate zones. The mineral wealth of the country is very great, the manufactures numerous, and, under such circumstances, the internal trade among so many people is necessarily active. Of the facilities for carrying it on, we remark that goods are conveyed by land on pack-horses and pack-oxen, and that the roads are excellent, and kept in admirable order. In the rugged and mountainous parts of the country where the road must pass, they make it zigzag on the side of the mountain, and, where necessary, cut steps in the rocks. Indeed, the roads must be kept in order otherwise they could not accomplish what they do by their postal arrangements. As among the ancient Mexicans and Peruvians, the post is pedestrian, and very expeditious. Every carrier is accompanied by a partner to take his place in case of accident. The men run at their utmost speed, and as they approach the end of their stage, find the relay waiting, to whom, as soon as they are near enough, they toss the package of letters, when the new runners set off before the coming ones have stopped. Nothing must be interposed to delay them a moment on the road. The highest prince of the Empire, with all his train, must make way for the post- men if he meet them on the road. Where necessary and practicable on their roads, the Japanese make good bridges, often of stone ; but they do not seem to have arrived at the art of tunnel-making. Some principles of civil engineering they understand and apply, but of military engineering they know nothing. But beside their roads, they use their rivers and inland lakes for internal trade wherever it is possible ; and in those parts of the Kingdom nearest the sea, probably the greater part of the inland trade is carried on by the rivers, which, though short, are navigable for some miles into the interior. On the roads, in all parts of the Empire, stables, inns, tea-shops, and other resting places occur at intervals, and the distances are regularly marked. Scientific knoiuledge and its applications. -^'We'haNein^&i &aa^ that the Japanese possess some knowledge of the principles of civil engineering. They know something of mathematics, mechanics, and trigonometry. Thus, they have constructed very good maps of their country ; they have measured the height of some of their mountains by the barometer ; they have made some very good canals ; they have constructed water-mills, and lathes moved by water power. They make clocks, and herein, by the way, they have shown remarkable ingenuity and skill. Meylan o-ives the following account of a clock which they made, and exhibited to the Dutch, while he was an inmate of Dezima. " The clock," says he, " is contained in a frame three feet high by five feet long, and presents a fair landscape at noon-tide. Plum and cherry trees in full blossom, with other plants, adorn the foreground. The back-ground consists of a hill, from which falls a cascade, skilfully imitated in glass, that forms a softly flowing river, first winding round rocks placed here and there, then running across the middle of the landscape till lost in a wood of fir trees. A golden sun hangs aloft in the sky, and, turning upon a pivot, indicates the striking of the hours. On tlie frame below, the twelve hours of day and night are marked, where a slowly creeping tortoise serves as a hand. A bird, perched upon the branch of a plum tree, by INTRODUCTION. 55 its song and the clapping of its wings, announces the moment when the hour expires ; and as the song ceases, a hell is heard to strike the hour — during which operation, a mouse comes out of a grotto and runs over the hill. * * * * Every separate part was nicely executed ; hut the hird was too large for the tree, and the sun for the sky, while the mouse scaled the mountain in a moment of time." Whatever may have heeu the defects of taste, the ingenuity and skill in this piece of mechanism are very apparent. Fischer also tells us a story of the ingenuity of a Japanese fisherman, of which, perhaps, the specimen may now he found among ourselves. The Japanese, like many other people of lively temperaments, have a passion for things that are strange and odd, and rather prefer sometimes to he gulled. This fisherman, availing himself of this passion, contrived to unite the upper half of a monkey to the lower half of a fish, so neatly as to defy ordinary inspection. He then announced that he had caught a strange animal alive in his net, but that the creature had soon died when taken out of the water, and invited his countrymen to come, and, for a consideration, to see the curiosity. After he had put money in his purse to some considerable extent by this bold reliance on human credulity, he improved on the original story, and said that during the few moments of its life the strange creature had spoken to him, (whether in the language of Japan or in that of the Fee-jee islands, he did not say,) and had jDredicted a certain number of years of great fertility, to be followed or accompanied by a most fatal epidemic ; and that against this last the only remedy would be the possession of a likeness of the marine nondescript, half human half fish. Pictures of the mermaid were forthwith in demand, and the sale was immense. Presently, as the affair had well nigh had its run in Japan, this mermaid, or one made like it, was sold to the Dutch factory at Dezima, and was sent off in the next ship to Batavia. Here one of our speculating brethren of the "universal Yankee nation" contrived to get it, and forthwith repaired to Europe, where he very successfully played the part of proprietor and showman of a veritable mermaid, during the years 1822-'23, thus settling a disputed qiiestion in natural history and filling his pockets at the same time. We are inclined to think that this is the identical mermaid which graces the collection at the New York Museum ; if it be not, then our Japan fisherman furnished the parent, (so ingeniously made as to elude detection,) from which was born the Fee-jee prodigy. But another more remarkable and far more creditable instance of the ingenuity and talent of a Japanese fisherman is related in the Dutch annals of Dezima. It occurred during the presidency of M. Doeif. The Dutch at Batavia, during the war, feared the English cruisers too much to send one of their own ships on the annual voyage to Japan. They therefore more than once hired American vessels. One of these having taken in at Dezima the usual cargo of copper and camphor, as she set sail in the night, struck upon a rock in the harbor, filled and sunk. The crew reached the shore in boats, and the authorities of Nagasaki, the Dutch factory, and the American captain, were all alike concerned to devise means of raising the vessel. Japanese divers were sent down to fetch up the copper, but the camphor had dissolved, and the efiliivia thus disengaged cost two of the divers their lives. The idea of unloading her was then aban- doned. Efforts were then made to raise her as she was, but without success. A simple fisherman named Kiyemon, who now perhaps for the first time in his life saw an European built ship, for he did not live in Nagasaki, promised to raise the ship, provided his mere expenses in doing it were paid; if he did not succeed he asked nothing. He was laughed at by the people for his presumption, but, as the case was hopeless, those interested permitted him to make the 56 INTRODUCTION. attempt. At low tide lie fastened on eitlier side of tlie vessel fifteen or seventeen boats, sucli as those by whicb the Dutch ships are towed in, and connected them all together firmly by props and stays. He then waited for a spring tide, when he came in a Japanese coasting vessel, which he attached firmly to the stern of the sunken ship, and at the moment when the tide was highest, he set every sail of every boat. The sunken vessel was lifted, disengaged herself from the rock, and was towed by the ^fisherman to the strand, where she could be unloaded and repaired. Fraissinet says he was handsomely rewarded for this. The reader will be amused to learn that his reward consisted in being allowed to wear two sabres, (which is the badge of elevated rank,) and to bear as his coat of arms a Dutch hat and two Butch tobacco pipes. "We have never read in any narrative of the circumstance that he received any money with which to support his rank. The Dutchmen and the American captain should have furnished that. If the circumstances had been changed, and either Hollander or Yankee had raised the vessel for the Japanese, it would have been very soon intimated to the natives that two swords with a picture of a Dutch hat and two tobacco pipes afforded very inadequate compensation for such a valuable service. We think it would scarcely have satisfied the Japanese mermaid maker, had he been the fortunate fisherman instead of the modest Kiyemon. Iledicine. — All the writers on Japan agree in the statement that on the visit of the Dutch president to Jeddo, his European physician, who accompanies him, is always visited by the native physicians, and closely questioned on points jjurely professional. Their object is to gain information. But they already know something. They have not, however, availed themselves at all of j)Ost mortem examinations, either to investigate disease or to study anatomy. We cannot suppose they are without opportunities of thus acquiring knowledge,, for we read that after a criminal is executed it is not uncommon for his body to be hacked in pieces by the young nobility, that they may try the temper and edge of their sword blades. But superstition is in the way. To come into contact with death is deemed pollution. Without such examinations, it is obvious that the knowledge of the physician and surgeon must be but imperfect at best. There are, however, in Japan, original medical works constantly appearing, and translations are also made of all such as they can obtain in the Dutch language, which they best understand. The European medical gentlemen, who have come in contact with their professional brethren of Japan, report favorably of them ; and Dr. Siebold speaks with high praise of the zeal with which the native physicians thronged around him, from all parts of the Empire, seeking to enlarge the stores of their knowledge. He bears testimony also to their intelligence, as evinced by the questions they asked. Acupuncture and moa^a burning are both used in Japan and are native inventions. They have an original treatise on the first, and the proper cases for its use. Their drugs are mostly animal and vegetable ; they are too little acquainted with chemistry to venture upon mineral remedies. They study medical botany, however, with great attention, and their remedies are said to be generally efficacious. Some of their medicinal preparations are very remarkable, producing most singular effects. Of these there is one spoken of by Titsingh, who saw its application and its consequences ; and from some of the oflicers of our own expedition we have heard of this preparation, of which, we believe, they have brought home specimens. Titsingh thus writes : ' ' Instead of enclosing the bodies of the dead in coffins of a length and breadth proportionate to the stature and bulk of the deceased, they place the body in a tub, tliree feet high, two feet and a half in diameter at the top, and two feet at bottom. It is difficult to conceive how the body of a grown person can be compressed into so small a space, when the limbs, rendered rigid by INTRODUCTION. 57 death, cannot be bent in any way. The Japanese to whom I made this observation tohl me that they produced the result by means of a particular powder called Dosia, which they introduce into the ears, nostrils, and mouth of the deceased, after M'hich, the limbs, all at once, acquire astonishing flexibility. As they promised to perform the experiment in my presence, I could not do otherwise than suspend my judgment, lest I should condemn, as an absurd fiction, a fact wliich, indeed, surpasses our conceiitions, but may yet be susceptible of a plausible explanation, especially by galvanism, the recently discovered effects of which also appeared at first to exceed the bounds of credulity. The experiment accordingly took place in the month of October, 1783, when the cold was pretty severe. A young Dutchman having died in our factory at Dezima, I directed the physician to cause the body to be washed and left all night exposed to the air, on a table placed near an open window, in order that it might become completely stiff. Next morning, several Japanese, some of the officers of our factory, and myself, went to examine the corpse, which was as hard as a piece of wood. One of the interpreters, named Zenby, drew from his bosom a santock, or pocket-book, and took out of it an oblong paper, filled with a coarse powder resembling sand. This was the famous Dosm powder. He put a pinch into the ears, another pinch into the nostrils, and a third into the mouth ; and presently, whether from the effect of this drug, or of some trick which I could not detect, the arms, which had before been crossed over the breast, dropped of themselves, and in less than twenty minutes by the watch, the body recovered all its flexibility. "I attributed this phenomenon to the action of some subtle poison, but was assured that the Dosia powder, so far from being poisonous, was a most excellent medicine in child-bearing, for diseases of the eyes, and for other maladies. An infusion of this powder, taken even in perfect health, is said to have virtues which cause it to be in great request among the Japanese of all classes. It cheers the spirits and refreshes- the body. It is carefully tied up in a white cloth and dried, after being used, as it will serve a great number of times before losing its virtues. " The same infusion is given to people of quality when at the point of death ; if it does not prolong life, it prevents rigidity of the limbs ; and the body is not exposed to the rude handling of professional persons, a circumstance of some consequence in a country where resjiect for the dead is carried to excess. I had the curiosity to procure some of this powder, for which I was obliged to send to Kidjo, or the nine provinces, to the temples of the Sintoos, which enjoy the exclusive sale of it, because they practice the doctrine of Kobou-Daysi, its inventor. The quantity obtained in consequence of my first application was very small, and even this was a special favor of the priests, who otherwise never part with more than a single pinch at a time." Titsingh, however, obtained a considerable quantity afterward, whicli he carried home with him in 1784. It has the appearance of sand, and when it is fully perfected for use is as white as snow. It is obtained on the mountain of Kongosen orKinbensen in the province of Yamatto, where there are many mines of gold and silver. The process by which it is prepared is the secret of the priests. Their knowledge is doubtless the result of accidental exjierience ; for their acquaintance with chemistry is so slight that we may safely conclude they do not under- stand the rationale of its preparation. Astronomy. — In this science they have made very considerable proficiency. They understand the use of European instnmients, and have caused many of them to be very successfully imitated by native workmen. Meylan says he saw good telescopes, chronometers, thermometers, and barometers, made by Japanese mechanics. They calculate eclipses accurately, and yearly 8 J 58 INTRODUCTION. almanacs are prepared in the Jeddo and Dairi colleges. Lalande's treatises and other astro- nnmical works have been translated from Dutch into Japanese, and are studied with great ardor. They have in their division of time a cjcla of sixty years, calculated out of their zodiac, which, like ours, has twelve signs, differing from ours in their names only. But this is not the place to consider minutely their astronomical system. We cannot leave it, however, without the remark that, on a comparison of it with that of the Muiscas, an ancient, semi-civilized, and now extinct race, that once inhabited the plains of Bogota, in New G-ranada, the resemblances were so striking that they produced on our mind a conviction that the astronomical systems of the two people were substantially the same. SECTION VII. LITERATURE AND THE FINE ARTS. Paper was made by the Japanese as early as the beginning of the seventh century, and printing from blocks, after the Chinese fashion, was introduced in the year 1206 of our era. The city of the Mikado appears to be the great metropolis of literature in Japan. A great many books are there made, and a great many reside there whose occupation is that of letters. Seminaries of learning of different grades have existed in the country ever since Eurojieans knew anything about it. Xavier says that in his day there were four "academies" in or near Miako, each having between three and four thousand pupils ; and he adds that much larger numbers were taught at an institution near the city of Bandone, and that such seminaries were universal throughout the Empire. Beside the colleges or higher institutions at the city of Miako, we know of similar ones at Jeddo, and of one at Nagasaki. How many there may be in the Kingdom we cannot say ; but education, such as it is, is by no means neglected in Japan. There would seem to be something like a common school system, for Meylan states that children of both sexes and of all ranks are invariably sent to rudimentary schools ; whether supported by the State or not he does not say. Here the pupils are all taught to read and write, and are initiated into some knowledge of the history of their own country. Thus much the meanest peasant child is expected to learn. There are immense numbers of cheap, easy books continually issuing from the Japanese press, which are designed for the instr^^ction of children or poor people ; so it will be seen they have their " cheaji literature." Books innumerable of a higher order are provided for the rich, and all, of both kinds, are profusely illustrated with wood-cuts, engraved on the same block with the tj'pe. Some of these books, which we have examined, show also that an art but recently introduced in Europe and America is very old in Jajiau, viz : that of printing in olors. So that in our modern inventions of stereotyping and printing in colors, and in our manufacture of cheap literature for the people generally, Japan has antici- pated us by centuries. Their books consist of works of science, history, biography, geography, travels, moral philosophy, natural history, poetry, the drama, and encyclopjedias. Beading is a favorite occupation with both sexes ; and it is said to be common in Japan to sec, when the weather permits, a group of ladies and gentlemen seated by a cool running stream, or in a shady grove, each with a book. INTRODUCTION. 59 Of the merits of the Japanese hooks it is impossible for us to si)eak with much confidence. Very few Europeans or Americans know anything of the language ; it is not the easiest of acqui-. sition; and yet, all we have of the Japanese hooks is in translation. We doubt if any western scholar has ever yet mastered it thoroughly, for opportunity has been wanting ; and very sure we are that Klaproth accuses Titsingh of ignorance, and Siebold and Hoffman similarly accuse Klaproth, while a Japanese at our side informs us that all are mistaken. Now, without a thorough understanding of the language, no translation can convey a correct idea of the sentiments expressed, much less of tlie spirit embodied in the original. An ex cathedra critical opinion on the Japanese literature is, therefore, premature. Let us hope that, ere long, both Europeans and Americans will master the language completely ; and then let them speak. J§(.s/c. — The Japanese music, of which, by the way, the natives are passionately fond, has nothing in it to recommend it to the ears of Europeans or Americans. The principal instrument is the samsic or guitar, and every young female of the upper classes is taught to play upon it. It is the invariable accompaniment of ladies when they go to parties ; and on these occasions the female guests sing and play by turns. They have, besides, various other instruments, but little can be said in commendation of their music. Arts of design, paintings, prints, &c.- — In this department they have made some progress, and in certain branches have attained to no small skill. Of anatomy, as we have already said, they know nothing, and consequently are no sculptors ; neither are they portrait painters. They are ignorant of perspective, and, therefore, cannot paint a landscape ; but in the repre- sentation of a single object, their accuracy of detail and truthful adherence to nature cannot be surpassed. Their deficiency is in composition. Nothing is more beautiful than their delineations of a flower, or a fruit,^nd especially of birds. The drawing is accurate and the coloring perfect. They make, too, colors which European artists pronounce to be unrivalled ; and some of which excel any we can produce. The Japanese are very fond of painting, and are eager collectors of pictures. They sketch boldly with charcoal or ink ; and of an isolated object the drawing, as we have said, is apt to be good. They do not paint in oil at all ; all their specimens are in water colors, the management of which they certainly understand very well. They have prints in great abundance ; all, however, are made from wood cuts, and very often are printed in colors. Engraving on copper has but recently been introduced among them, and as it has been adopted with great eagerness, it will probably be prosecuted with success. We have already said that they make castings in metal of vases and images, and the sides of their bells are adorned with bas-reliefs. They cannot be said to understand architecture as an art, though they cut stone and lay it skilfully enough ; nor have they any skill in the work of the lapidary. The country produces precious stones, but they do not know how to cut or polish them. Hence there is very little jewelry worn by either sex. But they have a substitute for jewels, such as we cannot make. This is called syaJcfdo, in which various metals are so blended and combined that they produce an efiect resembling, very much, fine enamel. This is used, instead of precious stones, for girdle clasps, sword hilts, boxes, and other ornamental work. 60 INTRODUCTION SECTION VIII. NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. Mineral luealth. — Kajmpfer, whom we believe to be as accurate as any writer on Japan, remarks that, "the greatest riches of the Japanese soil, and those in which this Empire exceeds most known countries, consist in all sorts of minerals and metals, jDarticularly in gold, silver, and copper." The gold is found in many parts of the Empire. Sometimes it is obtained from its own ore, sometimes from the washings of the earth or sand, and sometimes it is mixed witl%the copper. The quantity in the country is undoubtedly great. An old S2)anish writer of the seventeenth century tells us that, in his day, the jjalace of the Empei'or at Jeddo, as well as many houses of the nobility, were literally covered with plates of gold. In the beginning of the Dutch trade, the annual export was £840,000 sterling ; and in the course of sixty years the amount sent out of the Kingdom, through the Dutch alone, was from twenty-five to fifty millions sterling. Silver mines are quite as numerous as those of gold. In one year, the Portuguese, while they had the trade, exported in silver, £58*7,500 sterling. Copper abounds through the whole Jai)anese group, and some of it is said to be not surj^assed by any in the world. The natives refine it and cast it into cylinders about a foot long and an inch thick. The coarser kinds they cast into round lumps or cakes. Quicksilver is said to be abundant, but this, so far as we know, has neyer been an article of export. Lead, also, is found to be plentiful, but, like quicksilver, it has not been sent out of the Kingdom. Tm has also been discovered in small quantities, and of a quality so fine and white that it almost equals silver ; but of the extent of this mineral little is known, as the Japanese do not attach much value to it, and therefore have not sought for it. Iron is found in three of the provinces, and probably exists in others. The Japanese know how to reduce the ore, and the metal they obtain is of superior quality, of which they make steel imsurpassed in excellency. Coal. — "They have no want of coals in Japan," says Kaempfer, "they being dug up in great quantities in the province of Sikusen and in most of the northern provinces." Dr. Siebold also speaks of coal as being in common use throughout the country ; and on visiting one of the mines he saw enough to convince him that it was skillfully worked. For domestic purposes they convert the coal into coke. Viewed in the light of commercial intercourse between the two hemispheres, this coal is worth more than all the metallic deposits we have enumerated. Native sulphur. — In a region so volcanic, this is, as might be expected, an abundant mineral. In some places it lies in broad deep beds, and may be dug up and removed with as much ease as sand. A considerable revenue is derived by the government from sulphur. Fr-ecious stones. — No diamonds have been found, but agates, carnelians, and jaspers are met with, some of them of great beauty. But the wealth of "the kingdom in precious stones is imperfectly known, as the Japanese are not lapidaries. INTRODUCTION. 61 Pearls. — These are fislied up on nearly all jiarts of the coast, and are frequently large and beautiful. The Chinese taught the natives their value, by offering them very high prices for the linest qualities. Mother of pearl, corals, ambergris and uaptha are also to be enumerated among tlie articles of export. Forest and fruit trees. — The most common forest trees are the fir and the cypress; and so sensible are the Japanese of the necessity of preserving their timber trees, that neither of those above named can be cut but by permission of the local magistrate ; and the law requires that for every full grown tree that is felled a young one must be planted. The cedar grows to an immense size ; sometimes more than eighteen feet in circumference. An English ship at Nao-asaki within a recent period, wanted some small Spars ; they were furnished ; all were cedar, about ninety-six feet long. This tree would, no doubt, prove a very valuable article of export. There are two varieties of oak, both good and both diiferent from the oaks of Europe. The acorns of one kind are boiled and eaten for food, and are said to be both jialatable and nutritious. The mulberry grows wild in great abundance ; but it is so useful that the people transplant and cultivate it. Of the varnish tree we have already spoken. The camphor tree is valuable and lives to a great age. Siebold visited one which Charlevoix had described as having been seen by him one hundred and thirty-five years before. It was healthy and covered with foliage, with a circumference of fifty feet. The country people make the camphor by a decoction of the root and stems cut into small pieces. The chestnut and walnut are both found, and the former yields excellent fruit. There is also the pepper tree, or a tree which bears a species of pepper. Of fruit trees, there are the orange, the lemon, the fig, the plum, the cherry, and the apricot. The plum and cherry, however, are not cultivated as much for their fruit as for their flowers. The vine is very little cultivated; and of the tea plant we have already spoken. Having thus endeavored to furnish the reader with a condensed view of the leading features that characterize the past progress and present condition of Japan, we would at once proceed to the narrative of the expedition ; but there is a duty which we owe to our country and which we will now endeavor to perform. Of certain events which have transpired since the successful expedition under Commodore Perry, or occurred during its progress, it is due to the claims of truth that something should be said. It had been more gratifying to us to be silent on the topics to which we are about to allude ; but official publications by other nations, as well as by some individuals, have been put forth, the obvious purpose of which is to deprive our country and her officers of whatever merit may attach to the fact that the United States were the first, by peaceful negotiations, to cause an alter tion in the policy of excluding foreigners hitherto pursued by Japan. On the 24th of November, 1852, Commodore Perry left our shores on his mission to Japan. Taat such a mission had been resolved on by our government was announced to the world some twelve months before the time of its leaving, and had formed the subject of comment in more than one country of Europe. The general opinion abroad was that the mission would, like the many others that had been attempted by various powers, pi'ove fruitless. Dr. Von Siebold, in jiar- ticular, whose long residence in Japan was supposed to give great importance to his opinions, thus wrote to a friend concerning it: " My mind accompanies the expedition. That it will be successful by peaceful means I doubt very much. If / could only inspire Commodore Perry, he 62 INTRODUCTION. would triumpli," &c. The progress of the expedition was, of course, watched by foreign powers with great interest. Commodore Perry cast anchor in the bay of Jeddo, the commercial capital of Japan, on the 8th of July, 1853. On the 22d of August, 1853, a Eussian squadron, under the command of Admiral Pontiatine, anchored in the bay of Nagasaki. We know not precisely of what vessels this expedition was composed ; but we believe that, beside the frigate Pallas and the steamer Vostoclc, the Aurora, of 48 guns, and the corvette Navarino, of 22, were sent, the one to the Paciiic, and the other ostensibly to Kamtschatka, while it is quite certain that not long after a Eussian squadron of several vessels-of-war was at Copenhagen, the officers of which said tliat they were destined to remain five years in the waters of the Japanese archipelago. An unusually large Russian naval force was therefore collected m the Pacific, and in the vicinity of Japan, to be there on the expected visit of Commodore Perry. There were not wanting those who sus- pected that Eussia was silently pursuing her own system of policy. If Commodore Perry unfor- tunately should fail in his peaceful attempts, and be brought into forcible collision with the Japanese, Russia was on the spot, not to mediate, but to tender to Japan her aid as an ally in the conflict, and if successful, to avail herself of the moment of confidence quietly to get a foot- hold in some part of the Kingdom, with the intention, at the proper time, of absorbing all. There is no power in the other hemisphere to which the possession of Japan, or the control of its affairs, is as important as it is to Eussia. She is on one side of the islands, the United States on the other. The Pacific ocean is destined to be the theatre of immense commercial under- takings. Eussia is, in a gi-eat degree, shut out by local position from easy access to the Atlantic ; but with such liarbors on the Pacific as Japan would give her, she might hope to become the controlling maritime power of the world. Our friendly relations and influence with the Japanese, therefore, might interfere materially with the ulterior plans of Eussia. Hence she was first in the field to watch all our movements. Thus, we say, some interpreted her conduct. We do not mean to say that they interpreted it correctly, or that such was the policy Eussia had resolved on. But the fact is, as we have stated, that simultaneously with our expedition she did largely increase her naval armament in the waters of Japan. Commodore Perry was at some loss to understand precisely the policy of Eussia. In a letter of November 12th, 1853, the Eussian admiral made a distinct proposition of joining his forces to, and entering into full co-operation with, the American squadron. Tliis may have been prompted by. an expectation of our success and a doubt of his own. At any rate, the Commodore civilly, but decidedly, declined the proposal, and, in a letter to the Secretary of the Navy, assigned most satisfactory reasons for so doing. He stated that it was "inconsistent with our policy of abstaining from all alliances with foreign powers ; and for the reason, also, tliat his co-operation cannot advance the interest of the United States, however it might benefit the objects of the Eussian Emperor, of the nature of whose designs I (says the Commodore) am utterly ignorant." But whatever were her secret purposes to promote her own, or throw obstacles in the way of our success, if she had any, one thing is certain, for that success we are not indebted in the slightest degree to Eussia, by any direct act of hers to that end. Indirectly, however, she may have furthered tlie object. We ai-e in possession of very recent information from Japan tending to show that the imperial government seems to be distrustful of the purposes of Eussia. The movements of that nation on tlie Amour river have been viewed with so much apprehension that the Emperor some time ago dispatched a special agent to discover, if possible, their ulterior jmrposes. The INTRODUCTION. 63 Japanese have resolved that tlicy will raise an efficient army, and eqnip a navy, not composed of junks, hut of vessels huilt after the European model. The restrictions on ship-building have been removed, and already, since our treaty was signed, one vessel for commercial purposes has been built and rigged like ours. The Japanese have heard, too, of the war in which Kussia is at present engaged. The ini'ormation jiroduced intense excitement, and it was resolved by the imperial council that treaties similar to that made with the United States should be made with all nations seeking them. This opens Japan to the trade of the loorld. They knew, too, that the British Admiral Stirling was seeking the Kussian vessels in the neighborhood of Japan, and they were hence the more willing to make treaties with all, as the means of securing Japan from aggression by any, and of enabling her to preserve, as she wishes, a strict neutrality. The visit of Eussia, however, led to no treaty. The squadron left Nagasaki on the 23d of November, 1853, and returned to it early in 1854. It left again, after several fruitless interviews with the Japanese authorities, on the 5th of February, and was absent until the 20th of April, when it reappeared at Nagasaki, but remained until the 26th only, when it took its final departure. But other foreign powers have contributed as little to the success of our negotiations as Kussia has. On the Yth of September, 1854, Admiral Stirling, in command of the English squadron, arrived at Nagasaki, one purpose of his visit being to make a treaty, in which lie succeeded. But the English never pretended that they facilitated our negotiations ; they may f)0ssibly have indirectly derived some benefit from our success ; but we will not undertake to assert that they did. We think that they are more indebted to the Japanese apprehension of Eussia's designs, and to the fact of the war in which she is now engaged, than to anything else. We may, indeed, by having induced the first departure from the long established rule to exclude all foreigners but the Dutch and Chinese, have made it more easy to commence negotiation, but our aid goes not beyond this accidental assistance. Of the precise terms of the English treaty it is not here necessary to speak. One of the officers of Admiral Stirling thus speaks of it in a public communication through the English newspapers: "The treaty now made with Japan contains nothing about commerce, yet it ojiens the way and jirepares for future negotiation on this important point." "It is highly probable that what has been done by Sir James Stirling at Nagasaki may exceed in durability and value the work done at Yeddo by the Americans, although that cost a special mission, and was heralded to the world with a very loud flourish of trumpets indeed." To this pert outbreak of transparent envy, we have only to say we earnestly hope that when a treaty is made which does say something '^ about commerce," it may prove both durable and valuable to England ; and to add that we should be sorry to think such flippant impertinence as is here exhibited is a common characteristic of British naval officers. From the brave we look for "liigh thoughts seated in a heart of courtesy."* But the Dutch have claimed, and that by an official document, that they, in effect, did most of our work for us. It is strange that a nation of which all Christendom has, for more than two hundred years, supposed that it has sought uniformly to secure to itself a monopoly in the trade of Japan, should venture, when their monopoly is destroyed, to stand fortli and say, in substance, that they always lamented its existence and labored for its demolition. Has Christ- endom been so long deceived? We fear the world will ask embarrassing questions. It will say: "Did not the Dutch do what they could to drive out the Portuguese? Did not they assist •Since the above was written, intelligence has been received of a commercial treaty between England and Japan. G4 INTRODUCTION. in the bombardment at Simabara, and contribute to the extirjiation of the native Christians, who were siqiposed to sympathize with the Portuguese? Did they not manifest liostility toward their Protestant neighbors of the English factory at Firando, established by Saris and conducted by Cockes, until the English left? When, in the reign of Charles II, the English sought to renew tlie trade with Japan, was it not the Dutch who hastened to inform the imperial government that the wife of Charles was the daughter of the King of Portugal, thus arraying the deep-seated and ancient Japanese hatred of the Portuguese against the English? When the 'PhfBton,' iinder Pellew, visited Nagasaki, in 1808, was it not M. Doeif, the Dutch chief at Dezima, who devised and counselled the plan whereby the English were to have been murdered to a man? When Java was in possession of the English, and Holland, for a time, had been blotted from the list of nations, was it not the same M. Doeff, who, to the craft of the trader added the cunning of the dii)lomatist, and, by treachery to the Japanese in the bribery of their officials, contrived, at one and the same time, to pay the debts of Dezima and enrich himself personally, out of the two expeditions sent by Sir Stamford Raflies?" And noio, when the United States have, without seeing a Dutchman, or using a Dutch document, successfully negotiated a treaty, Holland stands forth, and by a formal official report from her minister of colonies, declares that she will now "perform the agreeable task of showing the persevering and disinterested efforts which the Dutch government has made' ' to cause Japan to open her ports to the commerce of the United States. A brief notice of this extraordinary document is called for by a regard to the truth of history. The statement of the Dutch "minister of colonies," when condensed, is substantially this: That in the year 1844, about the time of Commodore Biddle's visit to Japan, the then King of Holland, William II, wrote a letter to the Emperor of Japan, in which attention was called to the introduction of steam in navigation, the consequent increased development of commerce in the Japanese seas, and the danger likely to result to Japan from her rigid system of excluding foreigners from the Kingdom. It recommended friendly and commercial relations as the surest means of avoiding collisions ; and finally, from a grateful sense of the long continued favor shown to the Dutch by the Japanese, it tendered to the latter the "disinterested counsel to relax the laws against foreigners," and offered to send an envoy to give fuller explanations to Japan of what she should do, provided the Emperor desired it. This letter, the Dutch document states, contains the principles which have formed the basis of all Holland's subsequent action, so far as other powers are concerned. In 1845, the Emperor caused an answer to be sent to the letter, in which it was politely, but very decidedly, announced that Japan had no wish to alter her ancient laws with rcsiject to foreigners. With this the Dutch remained content ; and, so far from pressing the subject in any way, in 1846 they became the medium of announcing to the civilized world an edict of Japan forbidding foreigners to make charts and drawings of the Japanese waters and coasts, and forbidding ship- wrecked Japanese sailors to return to their country in any ships hut those of the Netherlands and China. Presently, when, in 1852, it became certain that an expedition was to be sent from the United States, under Commodore Perry, the Dutch forthwith sent out orders to their governor general in the Indies to address the governor of Nagasaki, requesting that he would appoint a confi- dential agent to enter into negotiations with the Dutch chief at Dezima, "about the means that INTRODUCTION. 65 the latter should indicate in order to preserve Japan against the dangers that threatened her ." And at the end of the governor general's letter was an intimation to the Nagasaki authorities that the Dutch might be forced to abandon Japan entirely if hostile collisions with other nations should be the result of perseverance in her system of exclusion. This, it is claimed, was a renewal of the effort to open Japan on the princij^les set forth in the letter of William II, in 1844. From 1844 to 1852 the Dutch made no effort at all, on the ground, as the document alleges, that it was expedient to wait a more favorable opportunity. In 1852, the Dezima chief was furnished, by the governor general, with instructions to urge upon the Japanese government a change in its policy of exclusion, not particularly with reference to the Americans, but in favor oi all nations who hitherto had lived in peace with Japan. At the same time powers to negotiate with Japan were sent to the Dezima cliief, and the draft of a treaty was furnished him by his government. He was also ordered to conform to the instruc- tions of the governor general and the draft of the treaty, if he should be consulted "in the Japanese American affairs." The draft of the treaty was substantially this : Article I. The relations now existing between Japan and the Netherlands to be confirmed. Article IT. The port of Nagasaki to be opened to other nations beside the Dutch for the following purposes, viz: to procure provisions and navy stores ; to repair vessels; and to take care of sick seamen. Article III. Other nations beside the Dutch may "even be admitted to trade :" provided they conclude a treaty u-ifh Japan on the bases expressed in the next article. Article IV. (a) Trade to be limited to the j^ort of Nagasaki. (6) Every nation admitted to trade to have its own consul. (c) Japanese government to indicate to foreign merchants a quarter in Nagasaki for their residence. (d) Trade to be carried on with the privileged Japanese merchants of the five imperial cities, Teddo, Miako, Ohosaka, Sahai, and Nagasaki, and placed under the care of the governor of Nagasaki. (e) Agents of the Japanese princes allowed to buy foreign wares, and to pay for them with the products of their principalities. (/) Japanese government to make regulations as to the manner of carrying on traffic ; such regulations to be enforced by the police of Nagasaki. (g) Japanese government to issue notes, payable at the imj^erial treasury, to facilitate trade with foreigners. (A) Foreign traders allowed to pay out and receive the Japanese copper coin, in the matter of daily household expenses. (t) Eight reserved to the Japanese government of imposing a moderate tariff of duties on foreign importations. (/) All differences arising in trade to be settled by the consul of the foreign trader and the governor of Nagasaki, or his proxy. {k) Crimes committed by a foreigner to he tried and punished by tlie nation to which the criminal belongs. (I) The Japanese government to indicate two places where the foreign nations, admitted to trade, may establish depots for coal. One shall be in the bay of "Good Hope," in Jesso, in the northern part of the Empire ; and the other in the southern part, on one of the islands of the Linschop archipelago. 9 J 66 INTRODUCTION. Article V. The stipulations above mentioned shall he suhmitted to every foreign poiver that desires to make a treaty with Jajian, and shall form the bases of such treaty. Article VI. In case treaties are made with foreign powers on tlie foregoing bases, the Dutch shall have all the privileges granted to the most favored nation. This draft was accompanied by a document from his Majesty the King of the Netherlands, entitled "Explanatory note to the draft of the treaty to be concluded between his Majesty the King of the Netherlands and his Majesty the Emperor of Japan." This commences with the declaration that "his Majesty appreciates the difficulties which exist in the Japanese institutions, in satisfying the demands of foreign powers for entering into commercial negotiations with that Empire, and foresees the dangers to which Japan is inevitably exposed, if the government of that Empire does not listen to reasonable demands of that kind," It then proceeds to state that "his Majesty, by the communications of his subjects, who have long navigated to Japan, and are well acquainted with the aifairs of that Emjjire, esteems himself, indeed, better able than any other firince to make propositions to the sovereign of that Empire, in order to mitigate the severe laws against foreigners." "Therefore, the King has taken the resolution to cause to be drawn up and presented a treaty between their Majesties the King of the Netherlands and the Emperor of Japan, in which, in respecting the laws and the ancient customs of the Empire of Japan, is indicated the way, by means of which, for the future, may be maintained, not only friendly commercial relations with the subjects of his Majesty the King of the Netherlands, but also with those maritime nations who desire commerce with Japan, or who, having peaceful purposes, are thrown by accident on the coasts of the Empire." "For the elucidation of a treaty drawn up in that spirit, his Majesty causes the following lines to be written." Then follows a separate comment on each of the articles of the treaty, and particu- larly on each of the bases enumerated under Art. IV, recommending and enforcing them all. These documents were all prepared and placed in the hands of the Dutch officials as soon as possible after the government of the Netherlands became certain that an expedition would sail from the United States, and some months before Commodore Perry left our shores. In anticipation of the contemplated enterprize, the government of the United States, in July, 1862, (at which time the Dutch draft of a treaty had been sent out on its way to Dezima,) applied respectfully to the government of the Netherlands, announcing officially that the American squadron would be sent, that its visit was meant to be friendly, and that its object was, if possible, to obtain from Japan some mitigation of her system of exclusion ; it asked, also, that instructions might be given to the Dezima chief to afford, if it should be desired by us, his official co-operation in furthering the accomplishment of our object. This request was answered by a promise that such instructions should be given ; and, by request, copies were furnished to the United States of the letter of William II, of 1844, and of the Emperor's answer to it of 1845 ; but of the draft of a Dutch treaty then on its way to Japan, or of any accompanying instructions to the Dutch officials in the east, the United States, of course, heard and knew nothing. Thus affairs stood when our squadron sailed on the 24th of November, 1852. Long before it arrived in the Japanese waters, the Dutch chief at Dezima had been endeavoring to carry out his instructions, and negotiate loith the Japanese the treaty of tc?iich the draft had been sent to him. But the authorities of Japan persisted in their refusal to appoint a person of consideration as their confidential agent to negotiate any treaty at all. In this state of affairs, the Dezima chief, " rightly resolving not to sacrifice the business to a more matter of form," as the Dutch document INTRODUCTION. 67 expresses it, at once addressed the governor of Nagasaki, and attempted to open a negotiation Avith liim. He laid before liini the several items in the draft of the treaty witli whicli he had been furnished, accompanying them with explanations, and set forth what he deemed the prin- ciples which were for the Japanese interest, and which should predominate in the negotiations ivhich he thought might result from the anticipated propositions of the United States ; for both he and the Japanese knew that our squadron was on its way. He concluded his letter as follows : " His Majesty, the King of the Netherlands, expects that the peace of the Japanese Empire can be preserved, if the government of Japan will answer the propositions of the United States in the manner indicated;" that is, on the bases set forth in the Dutch draft of a treaty. But the Japanese treated this attempt as they had all the previous ones from the Dezima chief; and its only effect was to quicken their native shrewdness, and prompt to more numerous demands for explanation, and more thorough investigations into the subject. At length, in June, 1853, the American squadron, purposely avoiding Nagasaki, made its appearance in tlie bay of Jeddo, and thus was in Japan before the Dutch were able to anticipate the American commissioner in making a treaty. The American squadron never was at Nagasaki, and our representative never had the least communication with the Dutch chief at Dezima. The Russian squadron soon after entered the port of Nagasaki, and the result of that visit has already been stated. Russia made no treaty with Jupan. Commodore Perry signed the treaty with Japan on the last day of March, 1854 ; and the Dutch government dispatched their war steamer Soemhing from Batavia for Japan on the 25tli of July, 1854. This was deemed a measure of expediency, as the sight of the American and Russian steamers had excited the liveliest interest in the Japanese. The Soemhing, during her stay, was visited by men of the highest rank, and, in fact, was made a school of instruction for a large number of Japanese. Finally, the English squadron, under Admiral Stirling, came in on the 7th of September, 1854, and deepened the impres.sion which had been made in Jajjan by the spectacle of so many armed ships of different nations. The document before us ooncludes by claiming great merit for the Dutch, in having opened Japan to the world. It thus speaks : " The Netherlands have understood their mission when, in consequence of the course of events, they placed themselves at the head to oiserate, in the interest of all, a mitigation of the system of exclusion that existed relative to foreign nations in Japan. The letter of his Majesty, the late William II, is thereof an irrefragable proof." " The United States of North America have obtained, by treaty, the opening to their flag of two ports in the Japanese Emjiire ; and one other power seems to have succeeded in a similar manner. In the face of such results, we cannot deny or undervalue the impression and effect produced by the presence of powerful fleets, or the influence exerted by the simultaneous and serious attempts of diSerent nations. But we wish to see acknowledged the part that the Netherlands had in it by their advice and persuasion. Indeed, these fleets realized the predictions of your Majesty's royal father, and served to procure a more ready acceptance of his disinterested advice. The draft of a treaty of 1852 — the letter of the chief at Dezima of the 2d of November, 1852 — the com- munication of the governor of Nagasaki of the 9th of November, 1853 — finally, the comparing of the said draft of a treaty with the convention concluded by the United States — all this jrresents the undeniable fact, that the measures taken, in consequence of your Majesty's orders, have powerfully contributed to the results obtained hy other nations." "In fact, the Netherlands have always desired an opening of Japanese ports, in the general interest, and in favor of commerce. Attached disinterestedly to that jiolicy, the Netherlands 68 INTRODUCTION. have sought no privileges for themselves in Japan ; hut they have, in equity, desired and ohtained treatment similar to that of others, when to these favors were granted." These are the facts as set forth hy the Dutch, and this the extent of their claims ; nor would we in the slightest degree detract from what may be justly their due. We confess, however, that, to us, the importance as well as effects of Dutch co-operation in our treaty seem to be somewhat exaggerated. It sometimes happens that men and nations cannot work to the production of their own particular ends without thereby contributing, whether they wish it or not, to the accomplishment of similar ends sought hy others. The success, however, of others, which they never sought, and which is but an accident resulting from their efforts to another end, can scarcely he claimed as a ground of merit, or demand very loud acknowledgments from those who may have been thus casually benefitted. The basis of a claim, quanhcm meruit, is some benefit purposely done by one to another, or some loss purposely sustained for his advantage. We readily concede that the Dezima chief, with the draft of the Dutch treaty in his possession, strove faithfully and judiciously, as became him, to induce the Japanese authorities to accede to the terms of that treaty and sign it, before our ambassador could reach Japan. Of this we have no right to complain. We concede also that his proceedings brought to the knowledge of the Japanese what the nature of a commercial treaty was, and furnished them also with some valuable hints as to some of its provisions,which afforded them topics of reflection and investigation, and prepared them for the consideration of our treaty when it should be proposed; but it will scarcely be pretended that the Dutch action was prompted by the direct design of aiding the United States; and still less, that it induced the Japanese government to depart from its long established policy of exclusion. The Dutch were themselves endeavoring to negotiate a treaty ; and such a departure must be pre-supposed before it was expedient to present the terms of a treaty at all. But further, as to this point of departing from their settled policy, it is on the record, that the letter of the King of Holland himself on this very subject, written in 1844, was answered by the Japanese government in 1845, with a most explicit declaration that they would not abandon their ancient policy and usage. At this time then (1845) the Dutch seem to have accomplished nothing ; and it is not on the record that they ever renewed their effort from this time forward until 1852, when they kneiu the American expedition would certainly be sent; and the mode of renewal was to offer to Japan a treaty which they had prepared to suit themselves, and which was for their own benefit. For it will be remembered that by that treaty no foreign nation was to be allowed by treaty to trade with Japan, but on certain bases, laid down in the 4th article of the Dutch draft. Now suppose Japan had signed the treaty proposed to her hy Holland, what would have necessarily resulted? The following consequences, vi^;: 1. That the Dutch should alone dictate what kind of treaties all other foreign nations might make with Japan. 2. That Japan, an independent power, should preclude herself from the right of making any treaty but such as Holland should approve. 3. That as Holland was to be placed on the footing of the most favored nations in any treaty Japan might make, the Dutch, in addition to the privileges they already possessed in Japan, and in addition to any others they might obtain by future negotiation, should have also every privilege of every kind that any nation might chance to get by treaty. Had the Dezima chief succeeded in negotiating his treaty before Commodore Perry's arrival, would it have benefitted the United States? INTRODUCTION. 69 But this is not all. We are constrained, from public documents of the Dutch themselves, to believe that they never cordially furthered our efforts to effect a treaty which should open Japan. In a letter from the Dutch governor general of the Indies, written from Java on the 22d September, 1852, addressed to Commodore Perry, (then on liis way to Japan,) the commodore is informed that a dispatch for the Dezima chief is enclosed, which the commodore may transmit to him, in case he wishes his co-operation. Now, at this very time, the governor general well knew that the Dezima chief had the draft of a treaty, and instructions to have it ratified if possible ; and every effort was being made to have it thus ratified before Commodore Perry could arrive. Had it been thus ratified, we have seen above what sort of co-operation the Dezima chief would have rendered ; it would have been to allow Japan to negotiate just such a treaty as Holland had seen fit to make for her and for us. But further still — the last clause of the governor general's letter to Commodore Perry is suggestive of a fact pregnant with evidence as to the cordiality with which Holland seconded our efforts. "I beg to remark, in view of the object at present contemplated by both our governments, that in case the Netherlands chief of the factory at Dezima should have succeeded in opening negotiations witli the government of Japan, it is not unlikely that any proof of co-operation between America and Holland would prejudice these negotiations, as you are aware that the American expedition to Japan has not always been represented to he of a icholly friendly and peaceful character." Of course, these latter words, to have any meaning, must imply that the Japanese had doubts of the friendly nature of our visit. Noio, who told the Japanese that it was unfriendly? The Dutch were the only Europeans with whom they had any intercourse, or from whom they could hear anything about it. And from the Dutch they did hear it ; for, in anticipation of the American movements, instructions were sent by the Netherlands to their governor general in Batavia to write to Jajjan and invite negotiation about the means that should be adopted ' ' to preserve Japan from the dangers that threatened her." The Dutch, therefore, told the Japanese to look for danger from our visit. Commodore Perry never invoked the aid of the Dutch, from the beginning to the end of his mission, but purposely avoided them ; and the treaty which he made is essentially different from that which the Dutch had provided. The draft from the Hague made Nagasaki the only port open to foreign ships for obtaining supplies, repairing vessels, and recruiting the sick ; and provided that foreigners might " even be admitted to trade," after they had made a treaty on the Dutch basis. The two ports of Simoda and Hakodadi, with a considerable space around each, are, by the American treaty, thrown open for trade ; and in case of distress, or when driven by stress of weather, all the ports in Japan are open to ships of the United States ; and as, when Holland shall succeed in making a commercial treaty with Japan, we cannot but hope and believe she will be admitted to like favors with ourselves, we have been inclined to think that the Dutch are far more indebted to us for releasing them from their imprisonment of two centuries and a half at Dezima, than we are for any aid they have rendered us, directly or indirectly, in negotiating our treaty with Japan. That Holland should seek to advance her own interest is both natural and proper ; when other nations succeed in promoting theirs, it is scarcely graceful or dignified to deny to them the modicum of merit which may attach to their success. It only remains to say a word about the singular statements of Dr. Von Siebold. This individual was the physician employed by the Dutch at Dezima, and has published, more largely than all his predecessors combined, the result of his observations during his residence. Of the value of his publications we have already spoken. During liis continuance in the Empire, however, a 70 - INTRODUCTION. circumstance is said to liave occurred involving a very melanclioly cataf5trop'he, in •wliicli Von Siebold was an unwilling actor. The story is thus related by a modern writer on Japan. Sieboid had been with Colonel Van Sturler, the Dezima chief, to Jeddo ; the Japanese astronomer, Takahasi Lakusaimon, had, in violation of the law, furnished him with a copy of a recently made map of Japan. The draughtsman who made the copy having become, from some cause, offended with the astronomer, dMiounced him to the authorities. An investigation followed, Sieboid' s correspondence with Takahasi was demanded, and the topographical and geographical information contained therein, added to the fact that Sieboid was not by birth a Hollander, led to the suspicion that the physician of Dezima was a Russian spy. This caused the investigation to become more rigorous still, and severe measures were threatened. All who were known to be friends and corre.spondents of Sieboid, with a single exception, were thrown into prison. The excepted individual was made a witness for the government. He broke his oath in the cause of friendship, and privately informed Sieboid of what was designed against him. Tliis warning enabled him to place his most valuable documents in security, and to prepare copies for the use of the government commissioners, before his papers were seized and his person arrested at Dezima. Sieboid was repeatedly examined by the governor of Nagasaki, and steadily refused to name any of his Japanese accomplices ; and requested to be permitted to pass the residue of his life in a Japanese prison, as a hostage, for the innocence of his friends, and as a penalty for the consequences of his transgressions. The investigation lasted nearly a year. Sieboid was hanished from Japan ; and Takahasi and the draughtsman who accused him both committed suicide. Whether this story be true or not, in every particular, it was, at least, circulated on the continent of Europe, and in this form it had reached the United States before our expedition sailed. After Commodore Perry had been designated as commander, Sieboid applied for employ- ment as a member of the expedition, and so anxious was he to go, that he caused great and unusual influence to be exerted for the accomplishment of his wishes. Commodore Perry, for several reasons, and particularly from a desire not to compromit himself, or hazard the success of his mission by taking back to Japan a man generally believed to have been banished, resisted all influences, even the highest, and persisted in his positive refusal to have Sieboid in any vessel of the squadron. At length, our treaty was made, and the fact was announced to the world. Within a few months, and since such announcement, has appeared a pamphlet, by Sieboid, published at Bonn, and bearino- the following title : ' ' Authentic account of the efforts of the Netherlands and of Russia toward the opening of Japan to the navigation and commerce of all nations." We regret its publication for the author's sake. It subserves no scientific end, nor does it add a single fact concerning Japan to what the author has already communicated in his previous valuable writings. It is evidently the product of mortified and irritated vanity, and has two objects in view which are perfectly obvious. The one is to glorify the author, the other to disparage the United States and its Japan expedition. Appreciating, as we sincerely do, the voluminous writings of Dr. Von Sieboid concerning Japan, we regret exceedingly the egotism, vanity, and self-importance exhibited in the pursuit of the one object ; while we are not disposed to overlook, without rebuke, the misiepresentations and impertinence displayed in the accomplishment of tlie other. The text and spirit of the whole work may be found at the commencement, on the third page of the book, in the following statement : "We have noiu to thank the Rtissians, and not the Americans, for the opening of Japan." When we remember that, up to a very late period, the Russians had effected iio treaty at all loith Ja^an, the reader may possilily incline to tlie belief, INTRODUCTION. 71 that the shrewd Japanese were not far from the truth, when they suspected Von Siebold to ho a Eussian spy, and banished him. Of his intimate connexion with Kussia there can be no doubt ; the pamphlet itself shows it ; and though in the revelations it makes, its purpose is to glorify the author and show his great political importance, yet his boasts of services rendered to Kussia, his published extracts from the flattering letter of a Russian official of high rank, his acknowledgment of a summons and visit to St. Petersburgh, and his declaration that Japan knows Russia to be the most powerful nation in the world, are all facts indicative of the author's close and interested relation to the great northern power. Indeed, it has been said by some, that by his advice the Russian squadron was sent to checkmate us in our attempt to open Japan. If this be so, then, his extreme desire to go in our squadron may have been produced by his entire conviction, nay, assured knowledge, that his presence alone would have proved fatal to the success of our mission. Of the inordinate conceit and self-importance of Von Siebold there is, unfortunately, abundant evidence. Thus, he informs us, that he it was who induced King William II, in 1844, to write to the Emperor of Japan ; and states that the original of the King's letter was deposited with him and is still in his possession. He dwells, at length, upon the vast amount of valuable information he had acquired in Japan, upon the admirable opportunities he enjoyed for tliat purpose, and more than insinuating that all the rest of the world, compared with liim, is in almost entire ignorance, he contrives to make the pamphlet an advertisement of his really valuable works, of which he retains, we b&lieve, the sale in his own hands ; at least we know that it was not to be obtained in the book stores of Europe, and that the copy procured for the Astor library was purchased by the accomplished superintendent from Von Siebold himself. So, too, the services he has rendered to Russia lose nothing of their value and importance in his representations ; and we are furnished with an extract of a letter from a distinguished Russian statesman, addressed to our author, the publication of which by Von Siebold proves that the noble correspondent of whom he boasts could not have enumerated modesty among the personal qualities for which he commends the learned physician. We are also told of his intimacy with some of the Japanese nobility, though he dared not show his face in Japan, nor was he at liberty even to address to them a letter. A letter from M. Von Siebold, addressed to one of the gentlemen of the expedition, whom he ostentatiously calls in his pamphlet, " my correspondent on board of the Mississippi," is now lying before us. A single extract will illustrate the weakness of which we have spoken : "I see with much pleasure that Commodore Perry knows how to a^^preciate my profound knowledge and long experience of Japanese aifairs. I was very sorry not to have been called upon to trace a programme for the American expedition to Japan. I would have produced a plan to open the Japanese Empire to the world, under the watchwords ' humanity and patience.' I do not transgress the bounds of modesty when I say that I, only, am able to trace such a plan. The Netherland government knows my views, and has undertaken to support the peaceful intentions of the President of the United States toward the Japanese government." " Probably all overtures will be declined, or they will try to delay, as long as possible, giving a final answer. The Japanese government understands perfectly the art of protracting diplo- matic negotiations, to exhaust patience ; of spinning out endlessly the thread of objections against overtures for a commercial treaty. They will recall constantly the unalterable nature of their laws ; will urge the danger of breaches of etiquette or courtesy, the want of articles for exporta- tion, the great influx of foreigners. It will also be pretended that the Siogun is not allowed to 72 INTRODUCTION. enter into negotiations witli foreign nations (other than the Hollanders) without the co-operation of the Mikado ; and it is easy to understand that the Mikado will decide for or against a treaty according to the will of the Council of State. All these are only pretexts, and the sole reason why the Japanese ohject to more intimate relations with foreigners is the fear that Christianity may be introduced into the country, and so the Siogun dynasty, which consolidated itself hy the extermination of Christianity, may he put in jeopardy. The fanatic Gutzlaif and Father For- cade, (now in Heaven, I hope,) the narrow-minded missionaries, have, by their conduct of late, contributed to excite afresh the fears of the Japanese government, who saw in these two mission- aries the whole of Christendom marching against Japan. " It shows a want of caution, in that the letter of the honorable President states that the mes- sengers whom he has sent to the Emperor of Japan are not missionaries. Why insert this assurance, calculated to excite distrust ? It is a matter of course that an ambassador is not a missionary ; and what guarantee can be given to the Japanese government that there prevails no intention to propagate Christianity in Japan ? No maritime power but Holland enjoys her confidence. Holland only can make a movement to open Japan to the commerce of the world. Holland has not listened to my advice, and will repent it." " Please to pray Commodore Perry not to allow his jjatience to be exhausted, to receive quietly the objections of the Japanese government ; but then he must declare decidedly that America will not trouble herself about the present religion and politics of Japan. America leaves these untouched, but insists on a commercial treaty to be effected by peaceful negotiation. Probably the proposals will not be listened to ; but beg Commodore Perry not to make hostile demonstra- tions against the good, faithful, innocent people of Japan, but to intimate to the Japanese gov- ernment that it is in his power to destroy their cities, ships, and men, but that to do so would give him pain ; that he will therefore give them a year to consider his proposals, because he would not by force of arms seek to obtain conditions which might as well be secured by friendly measures." " Then, if notice is given to me in proper time, I would still be willing to submit a plan by which the United States government may attain its purposes." With reference to this letter, in the pamphlet before us M. Von Siebold states that by means of his " correspondent on board the Mississijipi" he did not fail " to advise Commodore Perry to follow a peaceful plan, which counsel seems to have borne good fruit." It is very remarkable how strikingly facts in the history of our negotiation have contradicted the confident predictions of this gentleman, who professed such "profound knowledge and long experience of Japanese affairs." The Dutch, he states, were the only people who could establish a commercial treaty with Japan, and they had undertaken to sustain our effort. The facts are, that they were not able to make a treaty for themselves until long after ours was consummated ; that their support of our efforts consisted, as we have shown, in the attempt to make a treaty for themselves before our arrival, committing the Japanese to agree to no treaty with any foreign power but such as they prescribed ; and that from the arrival to the dei^arture of our ships in no mode, either directly or indirectly, did they have any communication with the Dutch, nor was the aid of the latter either invoked or employed in the slightest degree in the negotiation of our treaty. M. Von Siebold predicted that our overtures would be declined, or that a final answer would be delayed as long as ijossible. The facts are, that our overtures were not declined, and that, under the circumstances of the death of the Emperor and other events, the delay was not unrea- sonably long. The squadron returned to Yeddo bay on the 13th of February, and all tha INTRODUCTION. 73 terms of the treaty were substantially agreed on by the 23d of March, and it was formally signed on the 31st of that month. So that about six weeks elapsed from the commencement of the negotiation to its close in a treaty. M. Von Siebold predicted that various pretexts would be resorted to by the Japanese to pro- tract the negotiation. Singularly enough, the fact is, that of the six anticipated objections specified by Von Siebold not one was urged in the negotiation as insurmountable, and five were not mentioned at all. The only one named was the unalterable nature of the Japianese laws. And as to the complacency with which M. Von Siebold congratulates himself on the "good fruit" resulting from his counsel, we have only to remark that we are very sorry his good advice did not arrive in time to afibrd the Commodore any aid, inasmuch as his course had been fully decided on and in part followed without the slightest reference to it. In fact, Commodore Perry never saio M. Von Siebold' s letter at all. Of the disposition to disparage the United States and its expedition to Japan, the proofs are quite as unequivocal as those we have given above of self-conceit and arrogance. Our country is more than once brought into disadvantageous comparison with Russia ; is accused of being influenced by the most selfish motives ; of seeking her own advantage without the slightest regard to those of Japan or of the rest of the civilized world ; and in this respect her conduct is contrasted with that of Holland, which is afiirmed to have been always prompted by a most liberal desire to open Japan to the commerce of the world. Russia, also, is said to be bene- volently pursuing the same end, and also to be seeking the free exercise of Christian worship for all Russian subjects in Japan. With Russia's zeal for the protection of Christians in Japan we have nothing to do ; we may remark, however, it is a little curious that Russia should not be warned to avoid the subject of Christianity in Japan, while Commodore Perry is so decidedly advised, by M. Von Siebold, carefully to proclaim that he is no Christian missionary ; and is informed that the dread of the introduction of Christianity is the only real obstacle to his success. The chief magistrate of our country is also rebuked for a want of the usual diplomatic form, and of the dignified tone, so necessary to be used toward the sovereign of a country so much accustomed to etiquette. Piqued at Commodore Perry's success in the bay of Tedo, when M. Von Siebold had predicted that he would be obliged to go to Nagasaki, and that his proposals would not be listened to anywhere else, if, indeed, they would be listened to at all, he sneeringly attributes his success to what he imputes as a, fault, viz : that Commodore Perry informed the Japanese that the mere request to go to Nagasaki would, if repeated, be construed into an insult to the United States. And, finally, though we have succeeded, it is to be of but little value to lis, inasmuch as Russia and the Netherlands can better supply Japan's wants than we can, and their political and com- mercial regulations are such as the Siogoon can sympathize with, while ours are not. Of the selfishness of our motives we readily admit that we sought commercial intercourse with Japan, because we supposed it would be advantageous. Such, we suppose, is the motive of all intelligent nations in establishing friendly relations with others. We can only smile at the simplicity of those who expect to deceive the world by professions of pure, disinterested friend- ship from one nation toward another, irrespective of all considerations of national benefit. We think that every nation which has sought intercourse with Japan has supposed that such inter- course would prove advantageous to the seeker ; nor are we aware that there is anything very criminal or selfish in the desire that advantage may result from the communication. But it is quite possible to believe that benefit to both nations may result from the intercourse we would 10 J 74 INTRODUCTION. establish, and such henefit may he honestly desired, even while we seek our own interest. This is not selfishness. But further, we heg distinctly to state the fact that Commodore Perry did express to the Japanese commissioners the desire that other nations might have the benefits of our treaty, or of one similar to it, and received for reply that there were many commercial nations on the globe ; and that if they wished to have a treaty they should do as we had done, visit Japan and seek to make one. That our late President (Mr. Fillmore) should have been wanting in the courtly proprieties of diplomatic etiquette, and prove himself ignorant of the dignified language in which it became him to address a sovereign, is certainly very lamentable. But we are comforted by the reflection that his Japanese majesty was not offended by the manly, yet respectful, frankness of our republican chief; that the Emperor seems perfectly to have understood what he said, (which is something unusual in diplomacy ;) and that, through his commissioners, he responded in a very friendly and cordial manner to the propositions made by our President. At all events, we made a treaty with Japan satisfactory to hath governments. Our rude ignorance of propriety was thus kindly overlooked ; and we, therefore, hope that M. Von Siebold, the self-constituted court chamberlain of Japan, will henceforth generously forbear to speak of the shortcomings of such a semi-civilized people and government as ours. It may indicate our barbarism, but we would rather be clowns than calumniators. We plead guilty, too, to the charge that Commodore Perry went to the bay of Yedo and refused to go to Nagasaki ; and that he added to this enormity the very plain declaration that ' ' the Americans will never submit to the restrictions which have been imposed upon the Dutch and Chinese, and any further allusion to such restraints will be considered ofiensive ;" to which we will add that the Japanese commissioners put in writing, as one of the points agreed upon between them and Commodore Perry, that "the citizens of the United States will not submit to degradations like those imposed upon the Dutch and Chinese." And Commodore Perry's coun- trymen expected him to say precisely what he did say, and are quite satisfied with the result. It only remains to be added that, until since the return of our expedition, neither the Dutch nor Eussians were able to effect a treaty. England and the United States alone succeeded ; and England readily admits that, in point of time, ours was the first. This is all we have ever said ; and we conclude with the wish that all the powers of Europe, seeking commercial treaties with Japan, may succeed as well as England and ourselves, and that most interesting Empire thus be opened to, and enriched by, free communication with the civilized world. .e^.^^i^■.^■sic CHAPTER I. PROBABILITIES OF A SUCCESSFUL MISSION FROM THE UNITED STATES TO JAPAN. SUCH A MISSION PROPOSED TO THE GOVERN- MENT BY COMMODORE PERRY. EXPEDITION RESOLVED ON. VESSELS SELECTED FOR THE SQUADRON. VEXATIOUS DELAY IN THEIR EQUIPMENT.— COMMODORE PERRY SENT IN THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. APPLICATIONS OF SCIENTIFIC MEN TO JOIN THE EXPEDITION REFUSED. CAUSES OF SUCH REFUSAL. DR. TON SIEBOLD. VISIT OF THE PRESIDENT AND SECRETARY OF THE NAVY TO ANNAPOLIS TO TAKE LEAVE OF THE EXPEDITION. FAILURE OF THE MACHINERY OF THE STEAMSHIP PRINCETON ON THE PASSAGE DOWN CHESAPEAKE BAY. SUBSTITUTION OF STEAMER POW- HATAN IN PLACE OF THE PRINCETON. FINAL DEPARTURE OF COMMODORE PERRY ON THE MISSION WITH THE UISSISSIPFI ALONE. / isIM HE treaty which closed the war of the United States with Mexico transferred to the former the territory of California. Its position on the Pacific could not but suggest the thought of an extended field for commercial enterprise ; and with our territory spreading from ocean to ocean, and placed midway %i^ "^ between Europe and Asia, it seemed that we might with 'r^^, "^^ propriety apply to ourselves the name by which China had ' Xj,^ J^ loved to designate herself, and deem that we were, in truth, £f"the Middle Kingdom." If the shortest route between Eastern Asia and Western Europe be (in this age of steam) gS^ across our continent, then was it obvious enough that our ^& continent must, in some degree at least, become a highway for the world. And when, soon after our acquisition of California, it was discovered that the harvest there was gold, nothing was more natural than that such discovery should give additional interest to the obvious reflections suggested by our geographical position. Direct trade from our western coast with Asia became, therefore, a familiar thought ; the agency of steam was, of course, involved, and fuel for its production was indispensable. Hence aro.se inquiries for that great mineral agent of civilization, coal. Where was it to be obtained on the long route from California to Asia? Another inquiry presented itself: With what far- distant eastern nations should we trade? China was in some measure opened to us ; but there was, beside, a terra incognita in Japan which, while it stimulated curiosity, held out also temptations which invited commercial enterprise. True, we knew not much about its 76 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. internal regulations ; we knew that it had, for centuries, isolated itself, as it were, fi-om the world, and persisted in a system of excluding foreigners from intercourse ; that but one European nation was allowed to approach for purposes of trade, and that repeated efforts made by others for a similar privilege had uniformly failed of success. But we knew, too, that it possessed valuable productions, and ought to be brought into communication with the rest of the world. By some, indeed, the proposition was boldly avowed that Japan had no right thus to cut herself off from the community of nations; and that what she would not yield to national comity should be wrested from her by force. It was, perhaps, but natural that the minds of our naval officers should be drawn strongly to a consideration of the subject of intercourse with Japan. Not simply to the desirableness or probable advantages of such intercourse, for on those points all men's minds readily reached the same conclusion ; but on the means by which the wished for end might be best attained. And this part of the subject required some study and calm reflection, aided by such experience and knowledge of men of all latitudes as a naval officer would be apt to acquire in many j'ears of active service on shipboard. Commodore Perry, in common with other members of his profession and with the rest of his countrymen, had his thoughts directed to the subject, with especial reference to the probabilities of accomplishing the end in view. He knew that there miist be causes for a state of things so singular as was presented in the complete voluntary isolation of a whole people ; and his first object was, therefore, to obtain a correct history of the past career of Japan. For this purpose he mastered all that he could derive from books, and found that the exclusive system of Japan was not the result of any national idiosyncracy, but was caused by peculiar circumstances, long since passed, and was^ in fact, in direct opposition to what history proved to be the natural temperament and disjiosition of the Japanese people. He also found, in a careful examination of the repeated efforts of other nations to break down the barrier that shut them out, what he supposed to be the secret of their failures. Peculiar circumstances in the then political condition of the power seeking admission ; the rivalry of different nations striving to thwart each other ; the indiscretion, not to say arrogance, of some of those entrusted with the mis,sion, who sought to bully a brave people into acquiescence with their wishes ; a misconcej^tion of the true char- acter of the Japanese, who readily distinguish between obsequious servility and a manly spirit of conciliation, founded on the principle of doing what is kind and just, but submitting, not for an instant, to what is insulting or wrong ; all these seemed to him to be elements of failure clearly to be traced, in a greater or less degree, in the efforts that had been made. Beside, a disadvantage under which the European nations labored was that Japan had known something concerning all of them for many years, and, indeed, had been more or less brought into contact with them. Thus Portugal had given early and unpardonable offence in encouraging domestic treason ; England (who once had foothold) had abandoned it ; one of her kings had married a Portuguese princess ; one of her officers (Pellew) had committed what they deemed an insolent outrage in her waters ; Russia had taken possession of some of lier islands, had excited sus- picions of ulterior designs by fortifying on another "annexed" territory, at the mouth of the Amour, and, as the Japanese Emperor said, "had an inclination for Japan ;" while Holland had so quietly submitted to degradation, imprisonment and insult for two hundred years, tliat the Japanese unquestionably formed their ojnnion of European foreigners, in some measure, from the Dutch. MISSION TO JAPAN PROPOSED BY COMMODORE PERRY. 77 The United States occupied a different position from all the above named powers, for they had not been brought into such contact with Jajjan as awakened unpleasant associations. The only effort we had made toward opening friendly relations, (and it scarcely deserves the name,) was in sending two ships under Commodore Biddle, which remained at anchor some eight or ten days, accomplished nothing, and quietly left when the Japanese desired it. Commodore Perry, after careful examination, believed that, under all the circumstances, there was a favorable opportunity for our country to establish commercial relations with Japan, and avowed his belief to several of his brother officers, as well as to some of the dignitaries of the government, and eminent citizens, long before the subject was publicly discussed, and the expedition resolved on. There were doubtless others (and among them probably some of high station in the government) whose minds had been led to a similar conclusion, and who, like Commodore Perry, anticipated popular opinion on the subject of an expedition. Indeed, instructions had been sent out to Commodore Aulick, then on the East India station, directing him to proceed to Japan ; and the State Department, -then under the charge of Mr. Webster, had sought information concerning Japan from the officer who commanded the Preble on her visit. Commander Glynn, who very strongly felt and urged the importance of establishing, if possible, a friendly communication between that Kingdom and our own country. We believe, however, we do no wrong to any one, when we say that the thought of making an immediate effort was urged by Commodore Perry ; and, at all events, on the recal of Commodore Aulick, he formally proposed to the government of the United States the expedition, which was finally sent. The proposition was favorably received, and it was determined that a squadron should be dispatched, under his command, on the peaceful mission of endeavoring to open a friendly commercial intercourse with the Japanese.* The expedition having been resolved on, the following vessels were selected to compose the squadron, viz : The Mississippi steamer, which had been the flag ship of Commodore Perry in the Gulf during the Mexican war, and was deservedly his favorite vessel; the Princeton and Alleghany steamers ; the Vermont, 74 ; and the sloops-of-war Vandalia and Macedonian. The steamship Susquehanna, and sloops-of-war Saratoga and Plymouth were already on the East India station, and were to form part of the squadron. The armed storeships Sujsply, Lexington, and Southampton, were also attached to the exjiedition. The liveliest interest in the under- taking was manifested by the President, (Mr. Fillmore,) by Mr. Webster, and his successors in the State Department, (Messrs. Conrad and Everett,) by the Secretary of the Navy, (Mr. Kennedy,) and indeed by all the members of the Cabinet. The most liberal equipment was authorized, and the commander of the expedition was invested with extraordinary powers, diplomatic as well as naval, because much was necessarily confided to his prudence and discretion. The instructions from the department designated the East India and China seas and Japan as the field of service ; but the great objects of the expedition were to procure friendly admission to Jajjan for purposes of trade, and to establish, at proper points, permanent depots of coal for . our steamers crossing the Pacific. Orders were given to fit the squadron for sea with as little delay as possible ; yet such was the mismanagement in the equipment of the vessels, that more than once the public were led to * The subject of establishing commercial relations with the East occupied tlie minds of so many of our countrymen, that it is, of course, impossible to say, with certainty, with whom its discussion originated. It is, however, due to one gentleman, (Aaron H. Palmer, esq., of New York,) to say that he was, at least, among the earliest to call attention to its importance. 78 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. supjDose tliat the enterprise had been abandoned simply from the delay in its departure. More than nine months had passed beyond the time when the chief of the Bureau of Construction and Equipment had promised that the Princeton should be ready, before that vessel was reported as completed; and when thus reported, she was found, on trial, to be utterly inefficient for the intended service, owing to the imperfection of her boilers. Some new, and in this country untried, plan had been adopted in their construction or arrangement, and the experiment cost the expedition the loss of a year. The Princeton never formed part of the squadron, as the Powhatan was substituted for her. Amid these vexatious delays, however, the Commodore was not idle. While he was waiting for the completion of the Princeton, the misunderstanding arose concerning the fisheries in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and it became necessary to dispatch an armed vessel to that region. The Mississippi was ready for sea, and Commodore Perry was ordered to repair in her to the fishing grounds, and assist in amicably adjusting the respective rights of the English and American fishermen. Having performed this duty satisfactorily to the government, he returned to New York, earnestly hoping that he should find removed all obstacles to his speedy departure on his mission to the East. As soon as it was publicly announced that the United States had resolved on sending an expedition to Japan, applications came from all quarters of the civilized world for permission to take part in the service. Literary and scientific men, European as well as native, and travellers by profession, eagerly sought to accompany the expedition; and extraordinary infiuences, in some instances, were brought to bear upon our government inducing it to second some of the applications thus made ; but Commodore Perry resolutely persisted in an unqualified refusal to all such requests. And here it may be well to explain the grounds of sucli refusal. The duties confided to the commander were of a peculiar nature, and required the most prudent and delicate management on his part. He had his own views of what he had to accomplish and of the best mode of doing it ; and an essential element to success was the possession of absolute authority for the time being. It was indispensable that the most exact order and discipline should be main- tained. To effect this, strict military control would be necessary; but civilians could not be expected to submit patiently to the restraints of naval discipline, to the confinement on ship board, and to the sanitary regulations necessary to preserve health in crowded ships. But, further, after the accommodation of the proper officers of the vessels there would be but little room left for that of scientific men, who were accustomed to the comforts and conveniem es of life on shore, with abundant space for their books and instruments ; and beside, they would severely feel the disappointment of not being able to go and come at their pleasure, when curiosity and their scientific researches might make it desirable, to say nothing of the embar- rassments they might cause to the commander when they did land, by collisions with the people, arising from inadvertence or experience. But paramount as a ground of refusal was the fact that the object of the expedition was not scientific, but naval and diplomatic ; to attempt both would probably be to succeed in neither. If one, the last named, were prosecuted to a favorable result, the door would then be opened for success in the other. At any rate, the commander thought it would be best to do one thing at a time, and that the one thing confided to him for performance, must take precedence of every thing else. DR. VON SIEBOLD'S REJECTION. 79 Another matter, of no little delicacy in its adjustment, was likely to arise from the presence of scientific gentlemen not subject to the strict discipline of the navy. The Commodore's instructions required of him to prohibit those under his command from making any communi- cations to the newspapers and other public prints touching the movements of the squadron or the discipline and internal regulations of the vessels composing it ; and even private letters to friends were to avoid these topics. All journals and private notes kept by members of the expedition were to be considered as belonging to the government until permission should be given from the Navy Department to publish them. The object of these regulations was to withhold information from other powers which, if communicated, might jeopard the success of our mission. It was known that other nations, particularly Kussia, had ordered ships to Japan as soon as it was known that the United States had sent there a squadron. Now, the cor- respondence of scientific gentlempn with their friends and families was a delicate subject to be discussed between them and the commander. The latter would neither demand to see their letters nor prescribe the topics on which they might write. It was, therefore, best to avoid embarrassment by preventing the possibility of its occurrence. Some professional feeling also influenced the determination of the Commodore. He supposed that it was desirable to cherish a taste for scientific observation and study among the officers of the navy, many of whom are already not without reputation in science. If an opportunity were afforded them, and facilities furnished for observation, it would make them students of science ; and though they might not always, in their early efforts, be able to account philosophically for what they saw, yet they could record facts which others might explain ; and, as they would never forget the facts or the explanations, they would thus be adding to their stores of scientific knowledge. Many of the officers of our army are scientific men ; there is no reason why our naval officers should not be so also. These were the general causes which led the Commodore to the determination we have mentioned, without reference to persons. It is proper, however, to add, that, with respect to one individual, who manifested extraordinary desire to be of the expedition, and who has published untruths concerning it since its return, (Dr. Von Siebold,) Commodore Perry refused on f)ersonal grounds. From information received from abroad, he suspected him of being a Russian spy, and he knew that he had been banished from Japan, where, by a violation of law, he had forfeited his life. On the Commodore's return from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, he found that the vessels under his command were by no means ready for sea ; and, leaving New York, he proceeded in the Mississippi to Annapolis. He was not long in making the discovery that, unless he sailed alone and trusted to the chances of being joined at uncertain periods by the vessels assigned to his command, and then under equipment, he might be detained in the ynited States several months longer. He therefore, with the approbation of the Navy Department, determined to proceed on his voyage in the Mississippi without further delay ; with the understanding that he should be followed, as soon as possible, by the other vessels of the squadron. Before leaving Annapolis, President Fillmore, with the Secretary of the Navy and many other persons of distinction, both ladies and gentlemen, visited the ship and bade farewell to the Commodore and his officers. As the Mississippi and Princeton steamed down the Chesapeake bay, the discovery was made of the entire unfitness of the last named vessel to make the contemplated voyage. Her machinery failed, and it was on the arrival at Norfolk that 80 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. the Powliatan (which had then just arrived from the West Indies) ^was substituted for the Princeton. The Commodore, tired of delays, was not disposed to wait any longer for a consort, and, accordingly, on the 24th of November, 1852, the Mississippi alone took her departure from Norfolk, on the mission to Japan, with the intention of touching on the outward passage, for supplies of coal and refreshments, at Madeira, the Cape of Good Hope, Mauritius, and Singapore. 'III!" Am , III , In I, " lr-M^,r -3 > > « ' — ' 21 CO -^ to o ' — I S CO — CO s -- „. s» p OQ CO o o VOYAGE FROM THE CHESAPEAKE TO MADEIRA. 81 CHAPTER IL VOYAGE FROM THE CAPES OF THE CHESAPEAKE TO MADEIRA. VIEW OF THE ISLAKD. FtTMCHAL. HOSPITALITY OF THE INHAB- ITANTS. SALUBRITY OF THE CLIMATE. EXPORTS OF THE ISLAND. NOVEL MODE OF CONVEYANCE. DEPARTURE FROM MADEIRA AND ARRIVAL AT THE CANARIES. EARLY FAILURE OF NORTHEAST TRADES EXTRAORDINARY SWELL FROM THE NORTHWEST. GENERAL ORDER AS TO PRIVATE JOURNALS AND COMMUNICATIONS TO PUBLIC PRINTS. GENERAL ORDER AS TO SCIENTIFIC INVESTIGATIONS BY OFFICERS. THE "HARMATTAN," CONSIDERATION OF HYPOTHESES AS TO ITS ORIGIN. SOUTHEAST TRADES. SHIP STEERED FOR ST. HELENA. OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. CHAPLAIn's OBSERVATIONS ON THE ZODIACAL LIGHTS. ARRIVAL AT ST. HELENA. DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND. JAMESTOWN. LONGWOOD. TOMB OP NAPOLEON. THE CALCULATING HOSPITALITY OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE ISLAND.' — ADVENTURE OF LIEUTENANT ■. FORTIFICATIONS OF THE ISLAND. THEIR SUFFICIENCY AGAINST SAILING VESSELS. PROBABLE INSUFFICIENCY AGAINST AN APPROACH FROM THE WEST BY STEAM. DEPARTURE FROM ST. HELENA. N leaving the capes of the Chesapeake, the wind for ten days was strong from the southward ; it then changed to N.N.E., making a heavy "wallowing" sea; and then, hauling to the westward, blew with such violence as to render the ship uncomfortable. She, however, sustained the high opinion the Commodore entertained of her good qualities, behaving (as she always had done) most admirably, and averaging more than seven knots during the whole passage. Though unusually deep in the water, but eight of her twelve furnaces were put in requisition, and her daily consumption of Cumberland coal was about twenty-six tons. After crossing the Gulf stream a southwestern current of about a knot per hour was experienced ; and this continued until the ship was within a thousand miles of Madeira, when it ceased entirely. No other current was observed during the remainder of the passage to the island. The land was made on the evening of December 11th, seventeen days after leaving Norfolk. On making the northern extremity of the island, "Point Atristow," the wind was blowing a gale from the W.S.W., which occasioned a heavy "rolling" sea. The ship was, therefore, run along the northern end of the island with the view of finding smoother water, the more conveniently to bend the cables. In coasting the island, several very pretty villages were observed occupying sheltered nooks, usually at the bottom of some ravine, and near an indentation of the coast, which offered 11 J 82 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. indifferent anchorage to the small vessels employed in transporting the produce of the island to the shipping port, "Funchal." What added to the heauty of the scenery and roused the admiration and enthusiasm of the artists of the expedition was, that, as the rainy season had just passed, the torrents could be seen from the ship rushing down the sides of the mountains and forming in their descent many heautifiil cascades. i/lU'V^^J' View of Funchal, Madeira. Knowing that the wind, for the last few days, must have thrown into the bay of Funchal a heavy swell, rendering anchorage there unsafe, it was determined to run under the lee of the " Deserters," and there wait a favorable moment for anchoring in the roads. But on rounding the southeastern point of the island it was found that the wind had considerably abated, and had hauled to the northward of west, making it safe to proceed immediately to the anchorage ; and accordingly, just at dark, on the 12th, the ship came to anchor in thirty-three fathoms, the castle back of the town just open with the Loo rock. The vice consul of the United States, Mr. Beyman, with several coal agents were soon along- side, and arrangements were promptly made to send on hoard all the coal and water that might be required, so that the vessel would be ready to sail on the next Wednesday night. Accord- ingly, at daylight the next morning, (Monday, the IStli,) lighters containing coal and water were seen coming off, and by Wednesday, at four o'clock, p. m., between four and five hundred tons of coal, and ten thousand gallons of water, with many other articles, had been received on board. It may here be remarked, that the coal agents were very desirous that the vessel should be anchored much nearer the town, in about ten fathoms, and in a position where she would be HOSPITALITY OF THE INHABITANTS. 83 sheltered from the westerly winds by the Loo rock ; but upon an observation of the locality, the Commodore was satisfied that in blowing weatlier it would be difficult even for a steamer to get safely out from such an anchorage, and he therefore j^ositively forbade the removal of the vessel to the spot indicated. The anchoi'age anywhere in Funchal bay is unsafe in the winter season, and vessels lying in the road, when expecting a gale from S.E. around to W.S.W. generally put to sea, and remain out until the return of fine weather. In fact, Funchal, which lies on the south side of the island, has only an open roadstead, with a very rocky and uneven anchorage. The whole island is a mass of basalt. From November to February gales prevail from the southeast and southwest, rendering the roadstead very dangerous. Funchal Cathedral, Madeira. Funchal still retains its character for hospitality, and by no one was this virtue more gracefully exercised towards the members of the expedition than by Mr. J. H. March, who for more than thirty years has filled the ofiice of consul of the United States, and in the enjoyment of 84 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. his large fortune takes delight in making welcome to liis houses, both in town and country, such of his countrymen as are deserving of his attentions. The town consists of a wide street along the sea shore, containing several good buildings. From this, nmnerous small streets extend hack at right angles, for a considerable distance up the slope of the hill. The population amounts to some twenty thousand. The commerce of the island is considerable, and most of it is with England. Its exports have been said to amount to the value of £500,000 per annum. Wine is the principal commodity. When the island was first settled by the Portuguese, sugar was cultivated to a considerable extent, but this was discontinued after the West Indies were brought under culture, and wine became the staple. The salubrity of the climate has made Funchal a resort for invalids, and hence it is not difficult to find in it agreeable and refined society. The greater number of those who visit the island are English, and the known love of Englishmen for exercise in the open air has led to the introduction of some novel modes of affording to invalids the benefit of locomotion. As the streets of the city are paved in such manner as to forbid the use of wheel carriages, sedan chairs and hammocks were, imtil very recently, used not only for invalids, but by all persons making visits. The inconvenience of these ve- il icles has led to a substitute, which con- sists of nothing more than the ordinary sledge used for transporting casks of wine and other heavy articles through the streets, surmounted by a gaily decorated caniage on sie,i. Carriage body, and drawn by a yoke of oxen. This is now the fashionable conveyance, and in such an one did the Commodore, with his flag captain and aid, make all his official visits. There are stands in the streets, as for our cabs and carriages, where these vehicles may be found with the oxen yoked, and all things prepared for immediate transportation. It must not, however, be supposed that there are no other modes of conveyance ; horseback riding may be seen, and the fair equestrian makes her appearance without an attendant cavalier or groom, but with a footman, who keeps pace with the easy gait of the horse, and protects him from the annoyance of flies and other insects. Asses are common, and are probably the best beasts of burden on such roads as the island possesses. While the ship was at Madeira, the Commodore, who had reflected much and anxiously on the important mission with which he had been entrusted, thought it best to bring distinctly before the department the views he entertained of the steps he ought to undertake, more particularly as so much was necessarily confided to his discretion. He accordingly addressed to the Secretary of the Navy an official communication, which is here presented, not only as affording a record of his matured opinions on the important work before him, but also as furnishing the reader with the means of ascertaining, as he proceeds in the narrative, how for the Commodore's anticipations were fulfilled, and how nearly he was enabled to follow out his original intentions. VIEWS OF COMMODORE PERRY ON THE MISSION. 85 Commodore Perry to the Secretary of the Navy. United States Steam Frigate Mississippi, Madeira, December 14, 1852. Sir: Since leaving the United States I have had leisure to reflect more fully upon the probable result of my visit to Japan, and though there is still some doubt in my mind as to the chances of immediate success in bringing that strange government to any practicable negotia- tion, yet I feel confident that in the end the great object in view will be efiected. As a preliminary step, and one of easy accomplishment, one or more ports of refuge and supply to our whaling and other shijjs must at once be secured ; and should the Japanese government object to the granting of such ports upon the main land, and if they cannot be occupied without resort to force and bloodshed, then it will be desirable in the beginning, and indeed, necessary, that the squadron should establish places of rendezvous at one or two of the islands south of Japan, having a good harbor, and possessing facilities for obtaining water and supplies, and seek by kindness and gentle treatment to conciliate the inhabitants so as to bring about their friendly intercourse. The islands called the Lew Chew grouj:! are said to be dependencies of Japan, as conquered by that power centuries ago, but their actual sovereignty is disputed by the government of China. These islands come within the jurisdiction of the prince of Satsuma, the most powerful of the princes of the Empire, and the same who caused the unarmed American ship Morrison, on a visit of mercy, to be decoyed into one of his ports and then fired upon from the batteries hastily erected. He exercises his rights more from the influence of the fear of the simple islanders than from any power to coerce their obedience ; disarmed, as they long have been, from motives of policy, they have no mean^, even if they had the inclination, to rebel against the grinding oppression of their rulers. Now, it strikes me, that the occupation of the principal ports of those islands for the accom- modation of our ships of war, and for the safe resort of merchant vessels of whatever nation, would be a measure not only justified by the strictest rules of moral law, but what is also to be considered, by the laws of stern necessity ; and the argument may be further strengthened by the certain consequences of the amelioration of the condition of the natives, although the vices attendant upon civilization may be entailed upon them. In my former commands uj)on the coast of Africa and in the Gulf of Mexico, where it fell to my lot to subjugate many towns and communities, I found no difficulty in conciliating the good will and confidence of the conquered people, by administering the unrestricted power I held rather to their comfort and protection than to their annoyance ; and when the naval forces left, they carried with them the gratitude and good wishes of their former enemies ; and so I believe that the people of the islands spoken of, if treated with strict justice and gentle kindness, will render confidence for confidence, and after a while the Japanese will learn to consider us their friends. In establishing those ports of refuge it will be desirable to provide the means of supply to the vessels that may resort to them, and hence the necessity of encouraging the natives in the cultivation of fruits, vegetables, &c. ; and to carry out, in part, this object, garden seeds have been provided ; but to pursue the purpose still further, I have thought that if a few of the more simjile agricultural implements of our own country were sent to me for use, and for presents. 86 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. they would contribute most essentially to the end in view ; such, for instance, as the common cultivator, the plough and harrow, spades, hoes of various kinds, the threshing and winnowing machines, and especially those inventions for separating the cotton from its seed, and rice from its husks. And with reference, also, to the suhject of my letter to Mr. Folsome, charge at the Hague, a C023y of which has been enclosed to the Department of State, it would be good policy to counteract the discreditable machinations of the Dutch, by circulating printed publications representing the true condition of the various governments of the world, and especially to set forth the extraordinary prosperity of the United States under their genial laws. To effect this object, I am already jirovided with works for presentation, descriptive of the civil and political condition of the United States, such as the census tables, post-office and railroad reports, reports of the Indian and Land offices, military and naval registers, also with the magnificent publications of the State of New York, &c. And I have thought that a small printing press, with type and materials, would go far to facilitate our plans, by giving us the means of putting forth information calculated to disabuse the Japanese of the misrepresentations of the Dutch. The government of Japan keeps in employment linguists in all modern languages ; and such is their curiosity, that these publications, if admitted at all, will soon be translated. Having thus, at least in anticipation, established liarbors of resort, and organized certain rules of equity to govern our intercourse with the natives in the payment for labor, supplies, &c., and having depots of provisions and coal near at hand, we shall be able to act with more effect in bringing about some friendly understanding with the imperial govepnment. At all events, steamers, or whatever vessels that may be passing to and from California and China, will find safe harbors in their way, and it may reasonably be exfiected that in the course of time the intercourse thus brought about will lead to a better understanding of our pacific intentions. It may be said that my anticipations are too sanguine. Perhaps they are, but I feel a strong confidence of success. Indeed, success may be commanded by our government, and it should be, under whatever circumstances, accomplished. The honor of the nation calls for it, and the interest of commerce demands it. When we look at the possessions in the east of our great maritime rival, England, and of the constant and rapid increase of tlieir fortified ports, we should be admonished of the necessity of prompt measures on our part. By reference to the map of the world, it will be seen that Great Britain is already in posses- sion of the most important points in the East India and China seas, and especially with reference to the China seas. With Singapore commanding the southwestern, while Hong Kong covers the northeastern entrance, and witli the island of Labuan on the eastern coast of Borneo, an intermediate point, she will have the power of shutting up at will and controlling the enormous trade of those seas, amounting, it is said, in value to 300,000 tons of shipping, carrying cargoes certainly not under £15,000,000 sterling.* Fortunately the Ja})anese and many other islands of the Pacific are still left untouched by this " annexing" government ; and, as some of them lay in the route of a commerce wliicli is destined to become of great importance to the United States, no time sliould bo lost in adopting » See Governor Crawford's opinion, in " Tlie E.xpedition to Borneo by Her Majesty's Sliip Piiln," cliaptcr 24, pnljlislied by Uiiipor Brolliers, New York, l«4ti. ARRIVAL AT THE CANARIES. 87 active measures to secure a sufficient number of ports of refuge. And hence I shall look with mucli anxiety for the arrival of the Powhatan and the other vessels to be sent to me. I have thus exhibited, in this crude and informal communication, my views upon a subject which is exciting extraordinary attention throughout the world, and I trust the department will approve the course I propose to pursue. With great respect, I am, sir, your most obedient servant, M. C. PEKRY, Commanding East India Squadron. Hon. John P. Kennedy, Secretary of the Navy, Washington. The answer to this communication did not, of course, reach the Commodore for many months ; but as it preserves the continuity of the transaction, as well as shows the spirit of the govern- ment, and its confidence in the Commodore, it is inserted in the note below.* On the evening of Wednesday, December 15, the Mississippi weighed anchor and proceeded to sea, under steam, shaping her course to pass to the westward of Palma, one of the Canaries. This island was made at daylight on the morning of the 17th, and after reaching the lee of Hierro or Ferro, the southwesternmost of the group, the immersed floats or paddle boards on each side of the vessel were removed, the fires were extinguished and the ship left entirely dependent upon her sails. This change was made from an expectation that the ship would soon be under the impulse of the northeast trade winds. At the time the floats were removed there was a moderate breeze from E.S.E., which it was sujjposed would gradually settle into the northeast trades ; but, much to the surprise of the ofiicers of the ship, it hauled more to the southward, and eventually came from the S.S.W. Such was the obscurity of the weather at the Canaries that Teneriffe was not seen at all, and but an indistinct view was obtained of Gomera. This was the more * Jl/r. Everett to Commodore Perry. Department of State, Washington, February 15, 1853. Sir : Your dispatch of the 14th of December has been referred by the Secretary of the Navy to this department, and by me submitted to the President. The President concurs with you in the opinion that it is highly desirable, probably necessary for the safety of the expedition under your command, that you should secure one or more ports of refuge of easy access. If you find that these cannot be obtained in the Japanese islands without resort to force, it wiU be necessary that you should seek them elsewhere. The President agrees with you in thinking that you are most likely to succeed in this object in the Lew Chew islands. They are from their position, well adapted to the purpose ; and the friendly and peaceful character of the natives encourages the hope that your visit will be welcomed by them. In establishing yourself at one or two convenient points in those islands, with the consent of the natives, you will yourself pursue tiie most friendly and conciliatory course, and enjoin the same conduct on all under your command. Take no supplies from them except by fair purchase, for a satisfaclory consideration. Forbid, and at all hazards prevent plunder and acts of violence on the part of your men toward these simple and unwarlike people, for such they are described to be. Let them from the first see that your coming among them is a benefit, and not an evil to them. Make no use of force, except in the last resort for defence, if attacked, and self-[ reservation. The President approves tlie idea suggested by you of encouraging the natives to turn their attention to agriculture, and has given orders to ha%'e the implements of husbandry mentioned by you sent out by the Vermont. He has also directed a small printing press, with type and materials for printing of all kinds, to be sent out by the Vermont. The President is gratified to perceive that you are impressed with the importance of the enterprise confided to your direction, the success of which will mainly depend upon your prudence and address. It will attract a large sharj of the attention of the civilized world : and the President feels great confidence that the measures adopted by you will reflect credit on your own wisdom and discretion, and do honor to your country. I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant, EDWARD EVERETT. Commodore M. C Perrv, Commnndhig the United Slates naval fones in Me China seas. 88 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. remarkable, because, as Baron Humboldt has remarked, althougb the peak of Teneriffe is seldom seen at a great distance in the warm, dry months of July and August, yet in January and February, when the sky is slightly clouded, and immediately before or after a heavy rain, it is seen at very extraordinary distances. This arises from the fact that when a certain quantity of water is uniformly diffused through the atmosphere its transparency is thereby greatly increased. There was a circumstance which the Commodore had observed ever since the ship left Norfolk, a month before, and which surprised him not a little. He found an extraordinary swell coming from the northwest, and which never intermitted for a moment until the ship was fairly within the trades ; and even then its influence could be felt in the disturbance of the usually regular sea produced by the periodical winds, and by the production of a disagreeable cross movement of the waves. It was difficult to account for this swell so long continued ; it was quite certain the ship had experienced no violence of wind sufficient to produce it in the region which she had traversed, and since the 18th the winds had been quite moderate. The conjecture of the Commodore was that there must have been in the higher latitudes a succession of northwesterly gales, which had prevailed long enough to set in motion an ocean wave which was never subdued until it came in contact with the steady, though more quiet, tropical swell. This swell, too, possibly had an effect in throwing further south than usual the northern boundary of the trades. From the time of removing the floats up to the 20th the wind continued from the southward and westward ; it then hauled to the northward and westward, and finally into the northeast ; and it was not until about this period, about 8 p. m. of the 20th, in latitude 25° 44' north, longitude 20° 23' west, that the ship could be considered fairly to have entered the trades. This is a point unusually far south for the northern boundary of these winds at this season ; for it is not to be forgotten that the northern and southern boundaries of the zone of the trade winds are variable. The southeast has its northern boundary furthest to the north during our summer ; the northeast is then weakest. In our winter this state of things is exactly reversed. In our autumn the zone of the trades reaches its greatest northern declination ; and in our spring it is at its utmost southern limit. On the 22d of December, the Commodore issued a general order, promulgating the directions of the Secretary of the Navy forbidding communications to the jjublic prints at home touching the movements of the squadron, and prohibiting also such infomation through the medium of private letters to friends. The Secretary also required that private notes and journals kept by any members of the expedition should be considered as belonging to the government until their publication should be expressly permitted by the Navy Department. A second general order, issued the next day, was as follows : " Entertaining the opinion that the talents and acquirements of the officers of the squadron, if properlj directed and brought into action, will be found equal to a plain and practical examination and elucidation of the various objects pertaining to the arts and sciences that may come under their observation during the present cruise, and being aware of the limited accommodations of the vessels under my command, I have invariably objected to the employ- ment of persons drawn from civil life to conduct those departments more immediately connected with science. "Therefore I have to request and direct, that each officer of the respective ships will employ such portions of his time as can be spared from his regular duties and proper hours of relaxation, in contributing to the general mass of information which it is desirable to collect ; and in order THE "HARM ATT AN." 89 to simplify and methodise these researches, a paper is subjoined particularising the various departments in reference to which information is more especially wanted ; so that each officer may select one or more of those departments most congenial to his tastes and inclinations. "All captains and commanders are required to render every facility consistent with the proper duties of their respective vessels to those officers who may manifest a zealous co-operation in the pursuits herein specified ; and it is to be plainly understood that I do not officially require the officers to perform any involuntary duty. I shall exact that only which may come within the legitimate sphere of my authority, leaving to the officers themselves to engage, as far as they may see fit only, in those investigations which, in an official point of view, may be considered as on their parts gratuitous. "It will always give me the greatest pleasure to bring to notice the labors of each and every individual who may contribute to the general work." * During the 21st, 22d, and 23d of December, the wind continued from the northward and eastward ; about noon of the 23d it inclined to the southward of east, hauling around at night, however, more to the north ; and on the 24th, when the ship was abreast of Brava and Fogo, it stood at E.N.E. The haze, however, was such that nothing more than a glimpse could be obtained of Fogo ; and the winds are thus particularly referred to above because of their possible connexion, at this time, with the haze. They are physical facts, and therefore ought to be recorded. This haze is common to these latitudes, and is by many supposed to be caused by what is called the "Harmattan." This is the name given to a wind which, passing over Africa, takes up in its sweep, as is supposed, an impalpable dust, and carries it far away to the westward. The Commodore himself had remarked the haze or dust, on former cruises, more than five hundred miles west of the Cape de Verd islands. When commanding a squadron, in 1844, on the western coast of Africa, he had carefully noted several facts connected with this wind, certainly the most remarkable on that coast. A thousand incredible stories are told of its singular effects. It is said, for instance, that its dry and subtle properties will check or cure various diseases, heal up the most inveterate ulcers, destroy cabinet work, break window glass, and stop the motion of timepieces. But apart from these strange stories, it must still be said that the efiects of this wind are extraordinary. In some respects it resembles the Sirocco, and also the Levanter of the Grecian archijielago. It commences about the middle of December, and continues until the latter end of March. Like the Sirocco, it has been supposed to take its rise in the deserts of Africa ; but, unlike the Sirocco, instead of producing a burning and oppressive temperature, it is a chilling wind. Its direction is always from the land, and it sometimes increases to a strong breeze ; it does not, however, blow steadily during its season, but frequently intermits, when land or sea breezes take its place. At the Cape de Verds and the Gambia, the "■ Harmattan ' ' appears to form a junction with the northeast trades prevailing there at a certain season, and to blow with little interruption from January until April. *The subjects suggested by the Commodore, in his order, embraced hydrography, meteorology, naval architecture in its adaptation to war and commerce, military affairs, geology, geography, terrestrial magnetism, philology and ethnology, artistic matters, costumes, &c., religions, diseases and sanitary laws, agriculture, statistics of supplies, botany, entomology, ornithology, zoology, conchology, ichthiology, and the magnetic telegraph ; and we trust the appendices to this narrative will show that the commander did not misjudge either as to the attainments or zeal of his officers. 12 J 90 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. The hypothesis of some is, that in passing over the deserts and lands of Africa the "Harmattan" takes up an immense quantity of sand and dust, sufficient to form a floating mass, producing an atmosphere so hazy as frequently to obscure the sun, and prevent a sight of the land at the distance of five miles only. There is no doubt of the wind, the dust, and the hazy atmosphere, and possibly the latter may be occasioned entirely by the dust. At the season of the "Harmattan" this peculiar atmosphere may always be seen at the Cape de Verd islands, four hundred miles from the continent, and is constantly falling in quantities sufficient to cover the sails, rigging, and deck of a ship. It is also said to have been met with seven hundred miles further westward. Kecent investigations, however, certainly create some doubt as to the source whence the dust is derived. It was natural enough, as it was foimd on the coast of Africa, to refer its origin to the nearest known desert land; but the microscope, in the hands of Ehrenberg, would seem to intimate the possibility of a more distant origin. This dust, from the Cape de Verds, is found, upon examination, to consist of infusoria and organisms, the habitat of which is not Africa, but Smith America, and in the southeast trade wind region of that country. It is, therefore, possible that the southeast trades may have brought the dust, great as is the distance, from South America. But if such be the fact, it must be confessed that there are agencies in the philosophy of the winds, producing atmospheric phenomena, which are not yet sufficiently understood by us to justify positive assertion. A greater accumulation of facts is wanted. That stated by Ehrenberg is very important, and quite sufficient to create doubt of the correct- ness of the ordinary hypothesis. Until the 30th of December the northeast trades continued, the ship having then reached 6° 8' north latitude, and 16° 34' west longitude, when, in a squall from the eastward, the wind changed to the southward, and so continued, though somewhat variable, until January 2, 1853, in latitude 1° 44' north, and longitude 11° 37' west, when the southeast trade was met, bringing with it a swell, which retarded the ship's progress considerably. Before this, however, on the 29th of December, as the northeast trades had become light and unsteady, with occasional calms, the floats were replaced on the wheels, and the ship was put under steam, using the two after boilers only. With light winds and a smooth sea, these proved sufficient to make a progress of seven knots an hour ; but when the southeast trades fairly set in, accompanied as they were by a head sea, the speed was diminished to four and a half or five knots. The use of two additional boilers, however, soon brought the ship up to seven, at a daily consumption of twenty-six tons of coal. It had been the purpose of the Commodore, on leaving Madeira, to make the entire run to the Cape of Good Hope without stopping ; as it was supposed that with a proper use of the sails, and the supply of coal on board, this might readily be done ; but the northeast trades having ceased at a point much further north than usual at this season, and the southeast winds having also set in at a correspondingly early period, he ordered the ship so to be steered as that she might touch at St. Helena, should it be deemed desirable so to do, as a measure of prudence, to procure an additional supply of coal. In the observations made upon the currents since leaving Norfolk, the Commodore was of opinion that such as he encountered were caused merely by the winds acting on the surface of the ocean ; and as a general rule, though not perhaps universally true, it may be remarked that the current will be found setting in the direction of the prevailing winds; at least en ■-a o ARRIVAL AT ST. HELENA. 91 such has been the opinion formed from the long observation and experience at sea of the Commodore. There may be, however, and probably are, currents other than those partial ones created on the surface by the winds. These are caused by a difference in the specific gravity of the sea water at different places and depths. This difference disturbs the equilibrium, and the effort of the water to regain it must cause a current. There is, consequently, on and under the surface a system of currents and counter currents constantly operating in a greater or less degree. They are far from being yet perfectly known and understood, but the principle on which they must exist is the law of hydrostatics, that when two fluids on the same level differ in specific gravity, the one will not balance the other, both must move ; that motion is a current. Various interesting exijeriments have been made on the subject of submarine currents, counter to those on the surface, and their existence would seem to be conclusively proved ; their direction, however, cannot always be ascertained. Practical seamen have also endeavored to find out the depth of surface currents; this depth is not always the same, but there is, if not impossibility, yet great difficulty, at times, in ascertaining the depth with accuracy. On Monday, January 3, 1853, the ship crossed the equator in longitude 11° 01' west, and from that time up to the Tth had a moderately freeh breeze directly ahead. The effect of this wind, instead of affording refreshment by the motion of the vessel meeting it, (her course was due south,) was to render the officers' apartments, especially the cabin, and, indeed, all the after part of the shiji, particidarly uncomfortable, as the wind brought much of the heat and smoke directly aft. The toind, however, does not always retard the jirogress of the vessel, though it may be directly ahead ; for it must be remembered that, in a steamer, motion is not so much retarded by adverse winds as by the head sea which the wind produces. Indeed, a steamer will sometimes go faster against a moderately fresh breeze, provided she be on a smooth sea, for the wind drawing from forward increases the draught of the ftirnaces. After crossing the equator a current of about one and a half mile per hour was observed, setting in the direction of the wind, north 30° west. The chaplain, the Rev. Mr. Jones, employed himself with great care and assiduity, while passing through the equatorial latitudes, in observing and noting the zodiacal lights. They were very brilliant, and so remarkable that they proved an object of great interest to all on board. He preserved with great care the result of all his observations, in the hope of their future usefulness to the cause of science. On the 10th of January, at noon, the ship arrived at Jamestown, island of St. Helena. Here, as a measure rather of prudence than necessity, she took on board an additional supply of coal. Water and fresh provisions for the crew were also procured. St. Helena was discovered in 1502 by the Portuguese. It was afterwards taken possession of by the Dutch, who, in 1651, abandoned it for the Cape of Good Hope. The English East India Company then took possession of it, and it became a stopping place for their ships between England and India. The Dutch took it from the comj)any in 1772, but it again fell into their hands in the following year. From that time up to 1833 it remained in the company's possession, when it was transferred to the crown. The base of the island is basalt, and lava and scoria are scattered about its surface. It is evidently volcanic, and seen from a distance it ajipears like a pile of barren rocks rising from the ocean in the form of a pyramid. On a nearer approach tlie island is seen to be encompassed by rugged and almost perpen- 92 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. dicular cliffs from six to twelve hundred feet high. These are broken in several places by chasms which open to the sea shore, and form narrow valleys winding np to the table land above. In the centre of the island is an elevation known as Diana's peak, 2,693 feet above the sea level. A calcareous ridge runs across the island from east to west, and divides it into two unequal parts, the larger and better of which is on the north side, containing, among other spots of interest, Jamestown, Longwood, the Briars and Plantation house, the governor's summer's residence. Tlie whole circumference of the island is about twenty-eight miles. At the termination of James' valley on the sea stands Jamestown, the only town and port of the island, with a population of about twenty-five hundred. It is built on both sides of a well paved street which runs nearly a mile up the valley. A strong water battery commands the bay. Ascending James' valley, the traveller arrives on the plain or table land of Longwood, which consists of fifteen hundred acres of good land, elevated about 2,000 feet above the sea, and slopes gently toward the southeast. Though the island looks so barren from the sea, yet the interior is covered with a rich verdure, and is watered by numerous springs which irrigate a very fertile soil. The fruits and flowers of Europe and Asia are successfully cultivated, while horned cattle, sheep, and goats thrive on the rich pastures. Barley, oats, Indian corn, potatoes, and most of the common vegetables are easily produced. Fresh beef, mutton and poultry may at all times be procured, and fish are abundant. The climate is one of the most salubrious under the tropics. At Plantation house the thermometer ranges from 61° to 73° within doors, and sometimes, between June and Septem- ber, (the winter season,) falls to 52° in the open air. At Longwood the thermometer is generally a little lower, and at Jamestown a little higher, than it is at Plantation house. The summer rains fall in January or February, and the winter rains in July or August. The East India Company, while in possession of the island, constructed excellent roads, which are kept in admirable order by the present government ; they are inclined planes, adapted as well for wheel carriages and artillery as for horses and foot passengers ; and as one rides through the country the appearance of the cultivated fields, kept constantly green by the rains which fall in light showers from the clouds, driven over the island by the southeast trades, forms a striking and agreeable contrast to the barren cliffs which shelter the valleys. During the winter months, indeed, the raiirs are commonly very copiuus, and sometimes fall in such torrents as seriously to injure the cultivated grounds, and make for a time the roads impassable. It will thus be seen that, so far as physical comfort is involved, St. Helena is not the worst of prisons ; and if it provoked indignant remonstrance from tlie illustrious captive who laid his bones there, his complaints were prompted not so much by the asjiects of nature around, which never insulted him, as by the petty indignities offered him by little minds, and the irksomeness of restraint to a chafed spirit, whicli, in its isolation, felt deeply the contrast between its now enforced solitude and its former mingling and ruling in the crowd of men, wielding as if by magic the destinies of Europe. To him a hemisphere for his theatre and nations for his play- things had become in some sort a necessity. His own spirit forged his heaviest chains on St. Helena. But it was the memory of that captive that gave to the ofiicers of the ship the chief interest of the island, and every one accordingly made it his first object to visit Longwood and the spot where the ashes of Napoleon h( d once rested. LONG WOOD. — TOMB OF NAPOLEON. 93 In viewing tlie miserable building where, for more than five years, this extraordinary man resided, and where he ])reathed his last, it is difficult to sujipress a deep feeling of the instability of earthly glory. The palaces of France and the farm house of Longwood, Napoleon in his splendor and Napoleon on his death bed, are suggestive of reflections which will tempt the thoughtful silently to moralize. But, humble as was this residence of the dethroned Emperor, it had been the abode of fallen greatness, and that should have protected it from desecration. Longwood has been permitted to fall into decay, and the apartments which the Emperor once occupied are now but a common stable. The property has been rented by the crown to a farmer of the island, and he seems to have been permitted to make what use he pleased of the tenements upon it. Old House, Longwood, St. Helena. Without here questioning the necessity, as a measure of state policy, for confining the great and ambitious disturber of the peace of Europe in a place whence escape was impossible ; admitting the force of all the arguments by which the act at the time was justified to the world, yet one cannot look on Longwood without feeling that there was more of annoyance and insult in executing the purjioses of the Engli.sh government than was necessary, or than the government probably intended. At this day there are many Englishmen who think that England was singularly unfortunate in the choice of her jailors. A view of the grounds forcibly suggests this thought. Surrounded as the pre.scribed limits were by successive lines of sentinels, with a regiment encamped within musket shot of the dwelling, with every avenue to it closely guarded by pickets of soldiers, and with the clifis which bound the ground toward the sea perfectly inaccessible, it is impossible not to see at a 94 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN, glance, that there was not the remotest chance of escape. Miglit there not then have been some relaxation of minute and indelicate personal supervision, at least in the day time, when the island was surrounded by British cruisers, and the numerous forts fully garrisoned ? Was it necessary for security to make the captive fed incessantly that he was watched ? The British ministry had enjoined the safe custody of the prisoner ; unfortunately they left it to the jailors to settle all the details of the mode of keeping him. The tomh in which Na}>oleon was placed has lost some of its interest from the removal of his body to France. He died on the 1st of May, 1821. On the 4th of October, 1840, his remains were embarked on the French frigate Belle Poule, which had been sent, under the command of the Prince de Joinville, for the purpose of transporting them to France. The inhabitants of St. Helena seem to be industrious, but the general opinion of the officers of the ship, founded on their experience, was, that in their rambles over the world, they had never met with more polite and unscrupulous extortioners. It is said to be the practice of householders to entertain unsuspecting strangers with great seeming kindness, and then to mulct them most unmercifully for the supposed hospitality. This may be slander, but an incident occurred while the ship was at Jamestown, which leaves no doubt that proffered favors are sometimes done with the expectation of receiving for them — a "consideration." One of the lieutenants of the ship was the victim of excessive civility. Contemplating a visit to Longwood, he had engaged a horse at the livery stable, which, on landings he found saddled and waiting for him according to appointment. He was about mounting, when a citizen of Jamestown, whom he had casually met the day before, stepped up and told him that he had a horse, much superior to that he was about to mount, which was altogether at his service, and that he would send for it. Consequently the hired horse was dismissed, with a compensation to the disappointed attendant, and that of the polite friend was acce^jted, unfortunately, however, proving to be inferior to the one dismissed. However, he was used for a few hours, and returned with a douceur to the servant who received him. The same evening the owner of the horse visited the ship, when the lieutenant was profuse of civility and thanks, and after entertaining him, jjressed upon him the acceptance of some little presents, quite equal in value to the hire of the horse. These gifts were received in such manner as induced the officer to think there was still something more wanting, when he said, "Will you allow me to pay for the use of your horse?" and was answered: "Well, I am glad you were pleased with the animal, and you need only pay me the usual charge of three dollars." It was immediately handed to him, when he coolly offered his services at any future time, and said, with a peculiarly knowing look : "If, when you again visit the island, you will place yourself under my guidance, I will put you through all charges at half price." Then politely wishing a good voyage to all on board, he j^assed into the boat, with the neck of a wine bottle protruding from one pocket, and a liberal supply of Havanas filling the other, the offerings of his grateful friend, the lieutenant. At the time of Bonaparte's residence, the island was strongly fortified and fiilly garrisoned, and indeed was deemed impregnable. But this was before the introduction of armed steamers into the navies of the world. Tlie island is strongly fortified on the north side, while the south, exposed to the whole strength of tlie trade winds, is on that account almost inaccessible. But the batteries were constructed to prevent the approach of sailing vessels, and this they might probably accomplish, as they are on the high cliffs commanding the only ways by which sailing vessels can approach. .J>^JrM^-^ , — ,.^.. "N." .% ST. HELENA. — INSUFFIENCT OF ITS DEFENCES. 95 Sailing vessels approaching the Jamestown anchorage are obliged, by reason of the lee currents, to pass to the easfiuard of the island, and haul close around Sugar-loaf point; and as soon as they luff under the lee of this they become partially becalmed, and are at once exposed to the guns of a very heavy battery, called "Prince Kupert's Line;" and from thence all the way to the anchorage is a succession of forts, well provided with heavy artillery. On the westward, the fortifications are less strong, because, as the current is constantly setting in tliat direction, it is exceedingly difficult, and at times impossible, for a sailing vessel to beat up to the town ; hence there are but two small batteries on that side, which it would not be difficult to silence. But it is easy to see how, with the aid of steam, a moderate land and naval force might now attack the island with strong probabilities of success. But the approach should be from the west. Just under the lee of "West Point," the western extremity of the island, the water is always smooth, and by the aid of steam, the forces might all be concentrated there. A close line of battle ahead might be formed, securing the armed sailing vessels as closely as possible to the steamers, the armed ships in tow, and the troop ships lashed to the port quarters of the steamers. The land troops might be formed into two divisions, and supplied with light artillery, for forcing the gates of the town, and for covering the advance of the attacking columns up the steep roads which lead into the coimtry and to the rear of the batteries on the cliffs. The boats should be lowered and secured to the port sides of the troop ships, ready for receiving and landing the soldiers, the two divisions of which should be destined for different points. These arrangements having been made, and the ships cleared for action, with springs from both quarters, so as to spring to starboard or port, as might be necessary, the whole flotilla might be moved close to West Point, and thence trace the shore along at the distance of about a quarter of a mile, avoiding the shoal called "Long Ledge" on the charts, and keej^ing as close as possible under "Ladder Hill," on which there is a heavy battery, until it opened the town and anchored with springs in line of battle, and extending along the whole front of the road. On giving the starboard broadside, the ships might be sprung to port or starboard, as winds' or currents made necessary, remembering, however, that vessels do not always swing to the wind in this road. Meantime one division of the troops might keep to the eastward, and land at the quay, and thence marching along the causeway, force the gates with their artillery ; while the other, avoiding the line of fire of the ships, might pass to the westward of it, and tracing the shore under "Ladder Hill," land at the west flank of the water battery which covers the town front. The town once gained, the troops might at once secure the summits of the roads leading into the country, as guns temporarily mounted on the adjoining hills would effectually command the town and harbor. The only real obstacle to a force thus approaching from the luest, by steam, would be the strong water battery, commanding the whole extent of the little bay which forms the harbor. This, of course, would have to be silenced before there would be any chance of capturing the place; but, then, it must be remembered that the fire of the whole attacking force could be concentrated on this spot, if it approached from the west by steam. In such an approach, it could keep close to the shore, which is bold ; and such is the elevated position of the principal forts, that their guns could not be sufficiently depressed to bear upon steamers coming from the westward. These remarks were made by the Commodore, simply as illustrating the great changes wrought by the introduction of steam into naval warfare. In the absence of a resisting naval 96 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. force, tlie capture of fhe island, in the mode above indicated, would certainly not be very difficult. When the island was fortified, engineering skill accomplished all that was required in the existing condition of things. To a force ajjproaching by sailing vessels, it probably would now prove impregnable, for wind and tide were valuable auxiliaries, which were taken into account in planning the works ; but a new motive power makes its appearance, which is quite regardless of these natural auxiliaries, and new systems of defence are at once made necessary. This is bvit one of the changes wrought by this mighty agent, which seems destined to do so much in revolutionizing the condition of the world. On Tuesday, January 11th, at 6 p. m., the Mississij^pi weighed anchor and took her departure from Jamestown. The Briars, St. llilclia. PASSAGE TO THE CAPE. FUEL FOR STEAMERS. 97 CHAPTER III PASSAGE TO THE CAPE. FUEL FOR STEAMERS. TABLE ROCK AND CAPE TOWN. DESCRIPTION OF CAPE TOWN. CLIMATE. ANNOYANCE FROM DUST. VIOLENCE OF WINDS AND DIFFICULTY OF HOLDING TO ANCHORAGE. SUPPLIES AT THE CAPE. CAFFRE WAR AND ITS EFFECTS. MODE OF TR.4NSP0RTING PRODUCE ON LAND. VINEYARDS OF CONSTANTIA. EFFECTS OF EMANCIPATION OP SLAVES ON AGRICULTURAL LABOR. MODE OF CULTIVATING THE VINE. POPULATION OF CAPE COLONY. BUSHMEN. THE CAFFRES. PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS. FINGOES. MILITARY ORGANIZATION OF CAFFRES. CONDITION OF THE EMANCIPATED SLAVES. DEPARTURE FROM TABLE BAY. PASSAGE TO, AND ARRIVAL AT, MAURITIUS. HARBOR OF PORT LOUIS. DANGERS OF THE HARBOR.. — SKILL OF PORT OFFICERS IN MOORING VESSELS. r' ■ '-"' FTER leaving St. Helena the ship was put on her course for ' s the Cape of Good Hope. Prudential considerations alone induced the Commodore to touch at St. Helena. His opinion was that the best and most expeditious route for a steamer, going from Madeira to the Cape, (provided she can carry a sufficiency of coal,) is to he found by steering from the Cape de Verd islands direct toward Cape Palmas on the coast of Africa, and thence tracing the shore down to Table Bay. On leaving Jamestown the ship encountered the trade, deviating very little from the southeast, and blowing alter- nately moderate and fresh. It was observable^ however, that it was always stronger at night than in the day time, and brought with it a short head sea, which greatly retarded the progress of the vessel. It would have been easy to increase the steam power ; but experience had shown that about twenty-six tons of coal per diem enabled the ship to accomplish the greatest distance with the most economical expenditure ; and considering the extreme difficulty of procuring fuel in that region^ its enormous cost, and the labor and delay incident to its shipment, the Commodore deemed it most expedient rather to protract the passage than allow extravagance in the use of an article so essential to the movements of the vessel. A current of one and a quarter knots was found setting in the direction of the wind^ and this, as a retarding cause, was to be added to the force of the trade. As to the possibility of obtaining a supjjly of fuel in this part of the world, it may be remarked that at St. Paul de Loango the English maintain a dej)ot of coal for the accommo- dation of the African steam cruisers, and this would be a convenient point to which to send a coal vessel from the United States. Within a few years a depot of coal has been established 13 J 98 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. by an English company at Port Grand, Island of St. Vincent, of the Cape de Verde group, and it is said that a reasonable supply can always be obtained there by transient steamers. Steamers from the United States might proceed direct to St. Vincent's, provided there be certainty of obtaining coal at that place, and thence proceed to the Cape by Cape Palmas, via Loango ; but it is much better that cargoes of coal should be sent ahead of steamers leaving the United States, as the only security for a certain supply. As to the route from England, that which is prescribed for her mail steamers bound round the Cape of Good Hope, is to touch at St. Vincent, and thence proceed to the Cape, via Ascension Island, replenishing their coal at all their stopping places. In pursuing this route, (which they are compelled to do to leave a mail at Ascension for the African squadron,) they are obliged to contend with the entire range of the southeast trades, which are directly ahead, blowing most of the time quite strongly, and always producing a lee current of from one to one and a quarter knots. By taking the route along the African coast a steamer has the advantage of the sea and land breezes, and the favorable current usually setting to the south. On the 24th of January, at nine in the morning, the ship made the land in the vicinity of Saldanha bay, and at two p. m. Table Mountain was in sight. After passing outside of Dassen Island, and through the channel between the main land and Kobben's Island, at half past eight p. m. the ship came to anchor in Table Bay in seven fathoms, and the following day moved further in toward the town. This port is easy of access either by night or day, if the two lights can be distinctly seen, so that the distance from Green Point can be accurately estimated. This is important, as by bordering upon that point too closely there is danger of a ledge of rocks near the Cape shore, and by keeping too far to the northward, the Whale Rock, at the southern end of Eobben's Island, may bring a vessel up. Particular instructions for entering Table Bay at night will be found in the Appendix. The Cape of Good Hope was first discovered by Bartholomew Diaz, a Portuguese, in 1493. During an exploration of the Atlantic coast of Africa, this navigator was driven out to sea by a storm, and the first land he made, after the subsidence of the gale, was Algoa Bay ; he having thus doubled the Cape without his knowledge. Diaz gave the name of Cabo Tormentoso (the Cape of Storms) to the Cape, which was afterwards changed to that of Good Hope by the king of Portugal, as he rightly thought the discovery auspicious of a favorable result to the great prospect entertained by the Portuguese navigators of reaching India. In 149 T, Vasco de Gama, another Portuguese navigator, doubled the Cape on his voyage to the Indian seas. The Cape of Good Hope forms the southern extremity of a narrow peninsula about thirty miles in length, with the Atlantic ocean on the west. False Bay on the east, and Table Bay on the north. Cape Town is situated on Table Bay, and was originally founded by the Dutch in 1650, but fell into the hands of the English in 1795 ; and, it having been restored to its original possessors after the peace of Amiens, was finally retaken by the British in 1806, in whose possession it now remains. The town is well built with substantial houses of stone and brick, and wide, regular streets. The general aspect of the place, with its well constructed public buildings and private resi- dences, and its park, in the neighborhood of the government house, shaded by oaks of magnifi- cent growth, is exceedingly agreeable. O CD O ■* li'i'K''; ' -ivv*Kf(i i^ CAPEOPGOODHOPE. 99 The heat, however, in consequence of the position of the town, which is faced by the noonday sun and walled in behind by naked mountains, is excessive. Tliis, added to the dust, caused those who went on shore to keeji much within doors, so that Cape Town was found by the officers of the expedition but a dull and stupid place. The streets are unpaved, and, conse- quently, when the southeast gales, which prevail in midsummer, blow, the dust is raised in clouds and deposited in drifts of sand along the sidewalks several inches in depth, which keeps the street sweepers in constant occupation, who may be seen continually at work collecting the dirt in heaps, to be carried away by the dirt carts. So general is the experience of this nuisance from the dust that the male, as well as the female inhabitants, of all classes, are in the practice of wearing veils attached to their hats. The northeastern winds, which prove in raising the dust of such discomfort to the residents of Cape Town, prevail during midsummer, and their approach is always indicated by the appearance of a dense white cloud, which settles upon the summit of Table Mountain, therefore called the Table Cloth, and remains there until the gale subsides. These winds blow with great violence, sweeping along the land east of Table Mountain. If it were not for the perfect smoothness of the water in Table Bay, vessels would not be able to hold to their anchors during these southeasterly gales, of which two were experienced in the course of seven days, while the Mississippi was lying at Cape Town. Such is the severity of these winds that all business in the harbor is suspended during their height. The town seemed to be in a highly prosperous condition, business of every kind was flourish- ing, and there was a general appearance of affluence among the government oflicials, and the high rents, among other indications, show the prosperous condition of trade. Handsome equipages are constantly seen in the streets, and the prosperity is so universal that even the lowest classes are hardly known to suffer from want. The Cape of G-ood Hope is of great commercial importance to Great Britain as a convenient rendezvous for her cruisers stationed in the neighborhood, and as a stopping place for vessels bound to and from the Indian Ocean. Excellent water, fresh provisions, fruit and other necessaries can be obtained in any quantity and at reasonable prices. Wood is scarce, but almost every description of article usually needed by vessels may be procured from the numerous well stocked stores and warehouses at Cape Town. Live stock can be readily obtained, bullocks at £6 per head and sheep at 15 shillings. The Mississippi was supplied with twelve of the former and eighteen of the latter at these prices. Since the abolition of slavery in the British colonies the agricultural interests of the Cape have suffered, and although the commerce of some few of the colonial ports continues thriving, as, for examjjle, that of Cape Town, the interior of the country has declined in prosperity, there being at present but few examples of prosperous farming, in consequence of a want of laborers. The agricultural condition of the country has also suffered from the effects of the war carried on between the British colonists and the Caffres, which, although it has enriched the merchants and tradesmen by the large expenditure of public money, has impoverished the farmers by depriving them of the necessary laborers, and by unsettling the tranquillity of the country. The consequence has been that many of the farms have been allowed to run to waste, and though the soil is capable of producing Indian corn, wheat, barley, oats, and several other descriptions of grain, such has been the unfavorable influence of the cause alluded to that the home consumption of these products is not fully provided for. There are, however, some articles produced for exportation, among which may be enumerated wine, hides, tallow and wool. The farming is chiefly of a grazing character, and vast herds of cattle, .sheep, horses and mules are 100 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. raisetl. At Cape Town horses can be obtained at a price varying from thirty to one hundred and fifty dollars, and mules from thirty to seventy-five dollars. The cattle, which are indi- genous to the country, somev\'hat resemble the bufi'alo in appearance, and the sheep are of the broad tailed species, which are highly esteemed for the excellence of their meat. The large teams of oxen passing to and from the city are characteristic objects at Cape Town. These teams are composed olten of seven, eight, or even nine yoke, and are guided by two teamsters, one seated in front of a wagon, not unlike the wagons generally in use in Pennsylvania, where he urges the animals along by his voice and a long lash, while the other precedes the team, holding a halter fastened to the horns of the two leaders, with which he guides them. The arrangement of the team for an excursion of greater length is somewhat different, as then horsemen accompany it. The wagon, however, is the same. The ox of the Cape is a serviceable animal, which has a good deal of the general aspect of the buffalo, with long horns, a compact body and tapering rump. TiaAtUeiS m Pouili Africa. The Commodore, accompanied by some of liis officers, took occasion to visit one of the cele- hrated vineyards of Constantia, having provided himself with a barouche drawn by four beautiful stallions, driven four-in-hand by a negro boy, who evinced much skill in handling the reins. The drive was through a picturesque country, with pretty villas scattered about, and approached by beautiful avenues formed of the oak and the fir, Mdiich trees are raised from the seed^ and generally cultivated in the colony, not only for ornamental purposes, but for fuel. Substantial hedges were also observed, formed of the rouiig oak, of onlv three year's growth HOTTENTOT S — C A F F E E S — F I N G E S . 101 from the acorn. The vineyard visited was of limited extent and the culture of a character that somewhat disappointed the expectations of the visitors. The proprietor accounted for the inferior condition of his vineyard on the score of being unable to provide himself with the necessary supply of laborers, and remarked that he should be obliged to abandon the cultivation of the grape altogether had he not supplied himself with an American cultivator, which he had recently imported from the United States, and which simple plough, as he stated, drawn by a single horse, actually accomjdished the labor of fifty men, according to the usual mode of working and cultivating the vine with a hoe. The grape is cultivated at Constantia, as in Sicily, by trimming the vine close to the ground, and not permitting it to grow higher than a gooseberry bush. The richness of the wine is dependent upon the condition of the grape when it goes to the press. Although the grape begins to ripen in the early part of February, it is not gathered until the middle of March, when the fruit has assumed almost the appearance of the dried raisin, in which condition it is pressed. The prices of these Constantia wines vary from two to six dollars a gallon, according to their qualitv. The census of 1848 gives 200,546 as the jjopulation of Cape Colony. Of these 76,827 whites and 101,176 colored inhabitants make up the whole number of the inhabitants of the various parts of the colony, with the exception of Cape Town, which contains a poj)ulation of 22,543. There are but few of the aboriginal Hottentots of pure race to be found, as their blood has been intermingled with that of the Dutch, the Negro, or the Malay. The first European discoverer of the southern promontory of Africa found it tolerably well peopled, and the natives, in some respects, in better condition than many of the more northern tribes. They were in possession of herds of cattle and sheep, and led a pastoral life. They were a comparatively happy people, divided into tribes under a patriarchal government, and wandered about with their flocks and herds, taking with them their moveable huts, constructed of boughs and poles, which were conveyed from pasture to pasture on the backs of oxen. Their tribes, however, have been mostly exterminated by the cruelty of the Europeans, although a wretched remnant have survived and live as miserable outcasts in the fastnesses of the desert and the forest, and are known as Bushmen. They are still savage in character, and disgusting in their persons and habits, having received but little benefit from the civilization of their white conquerors, who have always pursued them with a cruel wantonness, "though we, as Americans," remarks Commodore Perry, " have no right to rail at other nations for the wrong they have inflicted upon the aborigines of countries seized upon by them, for though hardly equal to the English in the disgusting hypocrisy with which they excuse their acts, we are not far behind them in the frauds and cruelties committed upon our native tribes." The warlike CafFres still retain their characteristic wildness, and pursue their predatory life. They are in many respects inferior to the ordinary African, and have some of the p)eculiarities of the Egyptian races. They are of greater height and strength than the inferior negro ; their color is browner, and though their hair is black and woolly they have fuller beards. Their noses are more prominent, but they have the thick negro lip, and with the prominent cheek bone of the Hottentots they possess the high European forehead. The Fingoes, though traced in origin to some scattered tribes of the Caffres, differ from them in some degree, and althouoh spirited and brave in battle, are of a less savage nature, and have the character of being a comparatively good natured people. The Fingoes are pastoral like the CafFres, but more given 102 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. to the culture of the land, in which the men engage as well as the women, although this kind of labor is confined among the Cafires to the females alone. On the return of the Commodore Caffre Chief. Fingo woman. from Constantia, he stopped to pay a visit to a captive chief and his wife, whom the fortune of war had thrown into the hands of the Europeans. The chief was confined in a sort of country jail, at no great distance from the town. The keeper of the prison very civilly allowed free communication with the prince, a remarkably fine looking negro, about twenty-five years of age, who had been accompanied to imprisonment by his favorite wife and confidential lieutenant, who also had a similar companion to cheer his captivity. These women wex-e counterparts of the men in good looks. Subsequently, Mr. Brown, one of the artists of the expedition, visited the prison and secured excellent likenesses of the prince and his wife. .African Clilpf, Soyolo. Wif J of Soyolo. CAFFRE WAR. 103 The war carried on by the English with the Hottentots and Caffres^ which has continued so long, costing an immense amount of blood and treasure, is still prolonged by the obstinacy of the blacks. The whole frontier has been already devastated^ and although there is some hope of bringing about a peace, no one believes that any treaty that may be made will be respected longer by the negroes than may suit their convenience. In the last battle^ at the date of the visit of the Mississippi, in which the English force, headed by General Cathcart himself, was victorious, it is said that the Caflfre chief brought into action six thousand foot and two thousand horse. These numbers are jirobably exaggerated_, but it is well known that the blacks have acquired a tolerable organization, and that they are well supplied with arms and ammunition. They have hitherto had an abundance of provision, obtained from their own herds or from those stolen from the whites, but report says that, owing to the carelessness and waste always attendant upon the military movements of savages, the supply of food is running short with them. The English declare that the Caffres have been instructed in the art of war by numerous deserters from the British army and by a French missionary settled among them^ who passed his early life in the army. Allusion has already been made to the disastrous effects of the war upon the agricultural and other resources of the country. The principal white inhabitants of Cape Town are the government officials, army officers, and merchants and tradesmen. The laboring class is composed of the mixed races, the Malays, Coolies, and the negroes. The emancipated negroes and their descendants are very much in character and condition like the free blacks in the United States, though by no means as intelli- gent and good looking. They are perfectly independent of all restraint, so long as they do not violate the laws. They work when it suits them, and at their own prices, and break off from their labor if spoken to in a manner which they deem offensive. Their ordinary charge for labor is §1 25 for a day often hours. The Mississippi having taken on board from the ship Faneuil Hall a suj^ply of coal, and a good supply of bullocks and sheep, and having filled the water tanks^ left Table Bay at eleven o'clock, a. m., on the 3d February. On getting fairly out of the harbor, the wind was found to be blowing strong from the westward, with a heavy swell setting in from that quarter. In seven hours after leaving Table Bay the steamer was off the pitch of the Cape, whence, having Cape Hanglip full in sight, her course was directed southeast^ in order to reach the parallel of thirty-seven degrees of latitude, to avoid the southeast gales which prevail near the Cape, and cause a strong current to the northward and westward, and to meet the variables which are found south of the border of the southeast trades. For the first three days after leaving the Cape the wind blew from the northAvest to the south- west imtil the steamer reached the latitude of 36° 16' S., and the longitude of 23° 40' E., when it changed to the northward and eastward, rather northwardly, and so remained to the latitude of 35° 06', and longitude 44° 03'. At this latter point the wind gradually hauled to the south- ward, allowing the course of the ship to be inclined more to the northward, until the southeast trades were met. The Commodore, however, fearing that the wind might back again to the eastward, was careful not to make too much northing, lest he might fall to the leeward of Mau- ritius, thus losing the benefit of a fair wind, which not only increases the rate of going of a steamer, as of a sailing vessel, but also saves the fuel of the former. From the 11th to the 14th of February, inclusive, the wind continued from the southward and eastward, and at the latter date the ship reached latitude 29° 34', and longitude 55° 22, from which period to her arrival 104 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. at Port Louis on the 18th the wind hung to the northward and eastward, the trades having entirely failed. The weather throughout the passage was fine^ the harometer varying from -/-^ 80' to 29° 95', the thermometer from 74° to 84°, the currents setting with the wind, and running at ahout three-quarters of a knot per hour. There is no reason to douht the correctness of the opinion of Horshurgh, to the effect that the hest route for a sailing ship hound from the Cape of Good Hope to Mauritius is that in which nearly the whole, if not all, the easting is made hetween the parallels of 35° and 38° of latitude, and the southeast trades are struck hetween the latitude of 21° and the longitude of 55° or 57°. This course hrings vessels well to the windward, and enahles them to fetch the island of Mauritius without difficulty, provided the trade winds do not haul north of E. hy N. In the passage of the Mississippi the wind actually hauled as far as N.N.E., an occurrence not usual at the season, when northerly and northwesterly winds frequently prevail from Madagascar toward and heyond the island of Bourhon, (or, as it is now termed, Keunion,) and Mauritius. The question has been agitated as to whether it is advisable for steamers to make this curve in their route to Mauritius, or to steam directly from the Cape to the island, passing close round Cape Aghilus. The Commodore is decidedly of the opinion that, unless the steamer be one of first-rate speed, it would be ixnwise to take the direct route, in which she would have to contend against a strong trade wind and its consequent current. The difference between the two routes is about 240 miles, which would hardly seem to compensate for the loss occasioned by head winds and currents, leaving out of consideration the advantage of the cooler and more agree- able weather of the southern passage. The mail, and indeed all the European steamers, have usually taken the latter route ; and the Susquehanna, which attempted the direct course, although a faster steamer than the Mississippi, had a passage of seventeen days, while the Mississippi, of inferior powers and speed, made the run by the other course in fifteen days. The Mississippi, in doubling the Cape of Good Hope in midsummer, escaped any very heavy blow, although hardly a week passes without a gale from some quarter. Horshurgh remarks, in regard to the weather, that " in the storms off the Cape Bank and to the eastward, the sea is turbulent, and then generally accompanied with a black overcast sky ; when they are about to commence, and during their continuance, numbers of albatross, petrels, and other oceanic birds, are seen flying about, although in moderate weather few are perceived, for at this time they rest on the surface of the sea to fish, which they cannot do in a storm." Nothing was observed of a remarkable character in a meteorological point of view. The temperature of the air and water gave similar indications to those in corresponding northern latitudes. The barometer gave due notice of all the various changes of weather, and proved of great utility. There is a peculiarity in the action of this instrument in the neighborhood of the Cape, and in that part of the route across the Indian Ocean as far as the Equator, of which Horshurgh thus remarks : "In the vicinity of the Cape Bank, and in most parts of the southern hemisphere, the mercury rises with northerly and falls with southerly winds ; these latter proceeding from a warmer atmosphere are much rarefied, consequently the mercury falls in the barometer, whereas northerly winds coming from the frozen regions near the pole are more dense, and cause the mercury to rise. This ought to be kept in remembrance, for, when the wind is from southeast," continues Horshurgh, " I have several times observed the mercury to fall considerably before it changed to the north, and expected a gale, but the fall resulted only from the warmer air coming in contact with and repelling the former." s«T^ .'N»^r'^-;-"".^-f:''-*\ i" o X H P < -*uL ROUTE FROM THE CAPE TO MAURITIUS. 105 In the conrse of the passage the Mississippi spoke her Britannic Majesty's steamer Styx, thirteen days from Simon's Bay, bound to Mauritius. She was under sail, her engine having been disconnected, and tlie wheels, with all their buckets, allowed to revolve by the movement of the vessel through the water. She made tolerable way, but drifted niucli to leeward. The English war steamers frequently, by a simple arrangement, disconnect their engines for the purpose of saving fuel. This process of connecting and disconnecting is accomplished in a few minutes. In American naval steamers it is almost impossible to disconnect the engines, and the only practicable mode of using the sails exclusively is by the removal of the immersed floats- This requires moderate weather for its accomplishment, and the time necessary for doing it is about two hours, and double that time is required for the readjustment of the floats or buckets. It must be acknowledged with mortification tliat our navy is in many respects very backward in availing itself of some of those improvements in steam vessels which have been already adopted by other nations, and even by private enterprise. Since the construction of the Mississippi and the Missouri, the two first ocean war steamers introduced into our naval service, and for a time esteemed the finest in the world, there has been less progress in the building of such vessels than our position as a nation would seem to demand. Most of the maritime powers of Europe and many companies, and even private individuals, have put afloat such vessels as it must be acknowledged but few of our steamers could fairly compete with in excellence ot ' construction and equipment. The San Jacinto, Saranac, Fulton, and the Princeton, may be pointed to in illustration of these remarks. At half-past nine o'clock, on the morning of the 18th of February, the Mauritius was first seen from the deck, bearing N.N.E., and at noon the Mississippi was nearly abreast of Cape Bravant, having passed in sight of Grand Port, the scene of the memorable action in August, 1810, between an English squadron, under the command of Captains Pyne and Willoughby, and a French force, under Commodore Duperie. In this engagement the English were worsted, having lost nearly all their vessels. The battle was fought within the coral shoals which form the harbor of Grand Port, the batteries on the shore taking part in the action, which was prolonged several days. Early in the evening, the pilot having boarded the Mississippi near the mouth of the harbor, anchored and secured the steamer for the night at the outer, which are termed the Admiral's moorings. Next morning the pilot returned to the ship, bringing with him several launches, manned by natives of Malabar^ who, with the assistance of the crew of the Mississippi, completed her moorings, which was a process requiring much time and labor. All vessels entering the harbor of Port Louis are secured by frigates' chains attached to mooring anchors, and brought on board, one at each bow and one at each quarter. This operation is entirely under the direction of the pilots, who with their launches, warjjs, and numerous hands, are constantly occupied in mooring and unmooring the various vessels as they enter or leave the harbor. Vessels are moored head and stern, with their bows to the southeast, the direction from which the hurricanes usually come. As these generally blow directly out of the harbor, they are accompanied with very little sea ; but such is often the violence of the wind, that the strong moorings give way, and the most destructive results ensue, the vessels being dashed against each other, and the shores strewn with wrecks. It is rarely that these gales blow into the harbor, but when they do, a tremendous sea is thrown into the little port, and the strongest moored and best found vessels can hardly escape disaster. 14 J 106 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Every possible precaution has been taken by the government to provide against the destructive effects of these furious storms, and the authorities are vigorously seconded in their efforts by the intelligence and indefatigable attention of Lieutenant Edward Kelly, of the royal navy, the harbor master, who is ever on the alert to meet the wants of vessels, giving warning of the appearance of an approaching gale, and suggesting such measures as may the better guard them against accident. Such was the favorable impression made upon the Commodore by the perfect state of the port regulations, that he was induced to address a note to Lieutenant Kelly, expressing his satisfaction, and thanking him for the facilities which had been rendered to the Mississippi. Our Light-house Board might gather from the example of these excellent regulations some useful hints ; but it is feared that that branch of administration, like too many others, is so much exposed to ignorant legislation, that any disposition it may have toward reform and progress would be hindered by unwise interference. Cape of Good Hope. MAURITIUS, ITS DISCOVERY. 107 CHAPTER IV MAURITIUS, ITS DISCOVERT. GEOLOGICAL FORMATION AND PHYSICAL ASPECT. PRODUCTION OF SUGAR. EFFECT ON AGRICULTURE OF THE ABOLITION OF SLAVERY. COOLIES. POPULATION OF THE ISLAND. STATE OF FEELING BETWEEN ENGLISH AND FRENCH RESIDENTS. HOSPITABLE TREATMENT OF THE EXPEDITION. DESCRIPTION OF PORT LOUIS. GRAND PORT PAUL AND VIRGINIA. FACTS ON WHICH ST. PIERRE FOUNDED HIS STORY. TOMBS OF PAUL AND VIRGINIA. BUILT BY AN ECCENTRIC FRENCHMAN. CYCLONES. THEIR PROBABLE CAUSES. INTEREST FELT IN THEM AT MAURITIUS. DEPARTURE OF THE MISSISSIPPI FROM PORT LOUIS. HER COURSE THENCE TO POINT DE GALLE, ISLAND OF CEYLON. REASONS FOR TAKING IT. POINT DE GALLE, DESCRIPTION OF. GREAT RE.NDEZVOUS OF STEAMERS.— DIFFICULTY OF PROCURING FUEL THERE. AMERICAN CONSUL. THOUGHTS ON CONSULAR SYSTEM. — EARLY KNOWLEDGE OF CEYLON. ITS SEVERAL EUROPEAN POSSESSORS. CLIMATE. SALUBRITY. CAUSES OF ITS DIMINISHED PROSPERITY. PRODUCTIONS. VALUE OF COCOA-NUT PALM. — PEARL FISHERY. IMMENSE NUMBERS OF ELEPHANTS. GREAT SLAUGHTER OF THEM. BOA CONSTRICTOR, POPULATION OF CEYLON. PHYSIQUE OF CINGALESE, MALABARS, AND MAHOMMEDANS IN THE ISLAND. RELIGIOUS CONDITION. BUDDHISM. PILGRIMAGE TO THE TEMPLES. INTERCOURSE WITH A SIAMESE NAVAL OFFICER AT CEYLON. COMMODORe's LETTER TO THE SECOND KING OF SIAM. DEPARTURE FROM CEYLON. PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAITS OF MALACCA. ARRIVAL AT SINGAPORE. ACARENHAs, a Por- tuguese comman- der, discovered Mauritius, with its neighboring island of Bourbon, in 1505, and the \— whole group was then named the i:^ Mascarenhas islands. Tliu Portuguese took formal possession of Mauritius in 1545, but appear to have formed no settlement. In 1598, the Dutch surveyed it and gave to it its present name, in honor of Maurice, the Stadtholder of the Netherlands. They, however, did not settle the island until after they had formed an establishment at the Cape in 1640 ; and then they fixed themselves on the shore at Port Grand. In 1708, from causes not now known, they abandoned the island, and from this time up to 1715 its only inhabitants were a few negroes, who had been brought there by the Dutch as slaves, and who, having escaped from their masters, concealed themselves in the mountain forests. In the year last named (ITIS) the French took possession and formed a settlement at Port St. Louis, giving to the island the new name of the "Isle of France." They kept undisturbed possession until 1810, when it was taken from them by the British ; and since the peace of 1814, these last have retained it. 108 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. The island is, without doubt, volcanic in its structure, and is surrounded by a coral reef, which generally runs parallel to the shores, at a short distance from them, and is mostly left dry at low water. There are, however, in this reef eleven breaks or openings, through most of which vessels of considerable burden may pass. The interior of the island consists of a great number of lofty hills, mostly isolated, though in one or two instances they form small chains. The Brabant mountains and the Bamboo ridge are the greatest elevations, and these are about three thousand feet above the sea level. Port Louis, Miiiiritins. The soil is generally shallow and not very productive. This is owing to its dryness. The mean annual heat is about 1Q° of Fahrenheit. It is true they have rains, and in June, July, and August showers are frequent, but of very short duration. The average fall of rain throughout the year would appear, from observation, to be about thirty-eight inches. The rainy season lasts from November to March or April, and then the water descends in torrents, accompanied with heavy gusts of wind, and not unfrequently with thunder and lightning. This region is subject also to hurricanes quite as violent as any encountered in the West Indies; there is, however, no regularity in these, though five years rarely elapse without their appearance. The island is traversed by numerous water courses, which diverge in all directions from the centre ; these, however, are filled with water in the rainy season only, and then they form numerous cascades and cataracts. In the dry season the water rapidly evaporates. The island was once well wooded, and a considerable part of the native forest still remains. The cocoa-nut palm, and sago, are common, as are also tamarind trees, mangroves, and bamboos. POPULATION OF MAURITIUS. 109 Yams, cassava, Indian corn;, plantains, bananas, and melons are all cultivated as articles of food, as well as some of our vegetables, as spinach, asparagus, artichokes, cabbage, and peas. Wheat and rice are also produced, but in small quantities. Of fruits there are mangoes, shaddocks, and pine apples ; but oranges, grapes, peaches, and apples are inferior. The French introduced the spice trees of the Indian islands; none, however, succeeded but the clove. The chief article of cultivation, since the British obtained possession, is sugar ; not more, however, than three-eighths of the island is cultivated at all. The sugar cane is planted in the usual manner, though the fields present one peculiarity. The surface of the ground, in its original state, was covered with loose rocks and stones. These have been formed into parallel ridges about three or four feet apart, and between these the cane is planted. The cultivators are of opinion that these ridges, instead of being injurious to the cane, are rather advantageous ; they retard the growth of weeds, shade and protect the young cane from violent winds, and retain moisture which reaches the roots of the cane. Before the introduction of guano as a fertilizer the product was from 2,000 to 2,500 French pounds of sugar to the arpent or French acre ; but the increase since the application of the guano has been so extraordinary as to be scarcely credible. In ordinary seasons the product has been from six to seven thousand pounds, and, under peculiarly favorable circumstances, it has even reached eight thousand pounds to the acre. Official returns show a gradual increase in the amount of sugar exported from the year 1812 up to the present time. Thus, in that year, it was but 969,200 French pounds ; in 1851 it amounted to 137,373,519 pounds, and the estimated crop of this year (1852) is 140,000,000 pounds. The land would produce cotton and tobacco, but the entire thoughts of the agriculturists of the island are directed to sugar. The proportion of guano used is about one-fourth of a pound to a cane, and the French arpent or acre is estimated to contain about two thousand plants. The general abolition of slavery by the English government caused here, as it did in the other English slaveholding colonies, much agricultural distress ; but after a time the introduction of laborers, chiefly from the Malabar coast, under certain prescribed regulations, enabled the planters not only to dispense with the services of the freed negroes, but to obtain labor on cheaper terms than before. The free blacks here, as elsewhere, seemed to think emancipation meant an exemption from all labor; they were consequently indisposed generally to work at all, even for fair wages, and capriciously left their labor just when they pleased. The imported laborers, known under the name of coolies, perform nearly all the agricultural work of the island, as well as load and unload all the ships. On the sugar estates large communities of them are to be found. Comfortable houses are provided for them and their families, and exclusive of house rent and provisions, which are furnished to them, they receive from two to three dollars a month as wages. This is cheaper to the planter than slave labor was. The municipal laws for the protection and government of the coolies are judicious and sufficently minute, yet these people pay but little regard to any bargain they may make with their employers ; they go and come very much as they please, and are tolerated in the exercise of a much larger liberty than is accorded to laboring men in either England or the United States. Notwithstanding all these disadvantages, however, the planter makes large profits from their labor. The population of the whole island is about 180,000. Of these nearly 100,000 are negroes from Madagascar and the eastern coast of Africa, who were once slaves. Beside these, are Malays, fishermen from Malabar, Lascars and Chinese. Some of these latter have been 110 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. imported for agricultural labor. The white population is nine or ten thousand. Of these the larger part are Creoles of French origin, and speak the French language. They also form the wealthier portion of the white population. The English in Mauritius having, for the most part, a connexion, direct or indirect, with the colonial government, are somewhat exclusive in Costumes, Mauritius. their social relations. The French are not less tenacious, and hence, though there are no open dissensions between them, yet to the impartial stranger, who mingles freely with both, it is quite apparent that there is little real harmony between them, and a feeling of nationality exists which would probably induce the majority to hail with pleasure a return to the dominion of France. As in most countries which, like Mauritius, have involuntarily changed their nationality, the females indulge, in a greater degree than the other sex, the prejudices of country; perhaps because they mix less with the new comers. Both classes of the population, however, English and French, were exceedingly kind and hospitable to the members of the expedition. On arriving in an armed United States vessel at any of the English colonial settlements, great hospitality is usually extended to our officers, and visits of ceremony, with a constant interchange of dinner parties and other courtesies, commonly leave to the commander but little opportunity for quiet observation of that which may characterize the people generally. In fact, he is for a time unavoidably subjected to the bondage of official restraint, and is sometimes made a prisoner even by the friendly tyranny of kindness and hospitality. DESCRIPTION OF PORT LOUIS. Ill During the brief stay of the shiji at Mauritius the English officials and merchants exhibited the most profuse hospitality toward the Commodore and his officers, while the French popula- tion were no whit behind them in the unostentatious display of their kindness. These last evinced the most friendly feelings and no small share of intelligence, and while both classes were equally hospitable^ the only difference was that the Englishman was^ perhaps, a little the more stately, and the Frenchman a little the less ceremonious. Nothing could be kinder than the treatment of both. Port Louis, the capital of the island, is situated near its northwestern extremity, on a small bay, which is but a narrow inlet of the sea, somewhat more than a mile long, and about five hundred yards broad. At the extreme southwestern corner the town is built. The streets are straight, but not paved. The principal street runs parallel to the shore of the bay. The houses are chiefly of wood, and of but a single story. The popiilation is^ perhaps, from twenty-five to thirty thousand, of whicli from four to five thousand are white. The residue are for the most part blacks. Grand Port, on the southeastern side of the island, is sufficiently capacious, and is more convenient for shipping the sugar, of which large quantities are grown in the neighbor- hood ; but apart from the intricacies of its entrance, it is open to the southeast, from which quarter the hurricanes blow most furiously. Public Square, Port Louis. It is not to be supposed that among those who read at all there are many who are unacquainted ■with the beautiful story of Paul and Virginia, by Bernardin St. Pierre. The accomplished author was an officer of the garrison of Mauritius in 1744, and at that time a melancholy catas- 112 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. trophe which happened on one of the coral reefs surrounding the island furnished a hasis of facts on which he reared his interesting fiction. One is rather reluctant to destroy the illusion produced hy the romantic narrative of St. Pierre ; hut, in soher truth, he was indebted to his imagination for the picture of the storm, and the brave and generous Paul is but a myth. The facts are these : On the night of the 18th of August, 1744;, the French ship St. G^van was wrecked on one of the reefs on the northeastern coast of the island. On board the ship were two young ladies, by name Mallet and Caillon, (who were returning as passengers from France, whither they had been sent for education,) both of whom were lost. The depositions taken at the time by the French officials, and from which these facts are gathered, state that Mademoiselle Caillon was last seen upon the top-gallant forecastle of the wrecked vessel^, with a gentleman. Monsieur Longchamps de Montendre, who was at the time endeavoring to persuade her to trust herself to his efforts to save her. To enable him, however, to accomplish the object, it was necessary for her to disencumber herself of some portion of her clothing, and this, from a sense of modesty, she declined doing, and so perished with Monsieur Montendre and the larger part of the crew of the ill-fated vessel. It was conjectured that Monsieur Montendre was the lover of Mademoiselle Caillon, as, after lowering himself down the ship's side to throw himself into the sea, he returned and earnestly endeavored to prevail on the young lady to leave the vessel with him, and on her refusal would not again leave her. Mademoiselle Mallet was on the quarter deck with Monsieur de Peramont, who never left her for a moment. On these facts as a basis St. Pierre framed his story. The celebrity given to it has always awakened the interest of strangers visiting the island, who have naturally desired to look upon scenes consecrated by the pen of genius^ and associated in their minds with incidents which, if not literally true, have at least deeply touched their sensibilities. The officers of the ship were^ therefore^ glad to land^, and among other objects visited, strange to say, they were conducted to what the islanders are pleased to call the graves of Paul and Virginia. The history of these resting places of the imaginary dead is this : An eccentric French gentleman having a country residence about eight miles from St. Louis, and possibly near the supposed graves of some of the lost, erected in his garden two monuments to the memory of the unfortu- nate fictitious Paul and Virginia, (Mademoiselle Caillon and Monsieur Montendre.) The object was simply to add the stimulus of curiosity to the other attractions of his residence, and thus draw around him a more numerous circle, to whom he might extend that hospitality for which he, in common with the French of his day, was famous, and thus enjoy the pleasures of society. This benevolent and eccentric being has been long dead, but the tombs are still standing, though in a state of dilapidation, and still attract strangers. Alas 1 no hospitable greeting now awaits the visitor. His money is demanded at the garden gate, all sentiment evaporates, and he walks in to see the show. This custom of demanding payment from visitors to places of public interest is almost peculiar to the English, and its existence is to many of the people of England themselves a source of mortification and annoyance. There are certain places in which payment is perfectly proper, but there are others in which, though regularly exacted, it should not be asked. The sight of Long wood and a glance at Napoleon's tomb were both paid for by the gentlemen of the expedition at St. Helena ; but the custom alluded to is one which may be found throughout the extent of her Majesty's dominions. So much was said at Mauritius of the hurricanes, or cyclones, common to this part of the I — I o o o !33 THE CYCLONES. 113 Indian ocean^ that the Commodore scarcely entertained a hope of escaping from this region without encountering one. These hurricanes^ at the season of their occurrence, (from December to April,) form the great topic of interest and discussion to the Mauritians. In fact, they talk of little else at that period. Meteorological instruments of every kind are kept in use and under the most watchful observation. Nor is this great solicitude without reason, for these cyclones, when they do come, are but too ajit to bring ruin and desolation to tlie merchant and planter. The immediate cause of these atmospherical phenomena has been supposed to be a disturbance of the equilibrium in the air that takes place at the change of the monsoons. This period of strife lasts about a month, and then the hurricanes rage with terrific violence. Kedfield and Eeed, and others, have explained the laws by which they suppose them to be governed ; and their hypothesis in pei'fectly well known and understood by the Mauritians. The islands of Mauritius, Bourbon, and Roderique, lie directly in their ordinary track, and if either of them happens to fall within the vortex of one of these hurricanes, the consequences to life and property are terrible indeed. The natural interest felt in the subject, as well as its great practical importance, have given rise to many discussions as to the best means to be adopted, should a vessel unfortunately find herself within their sweeping influence or in their proximity ; and though these discussions may, and doubtless will, result in a better understanding of the laws which govern tliesc winds, yet it must bo confessed that some of them have rather a tendency to confuse the simjjle minded and practical seaman, who, if caught in one of these storms, should undertake then to find rules for his guidance. He can spare no time from the handling of his vessel, and however plain abstract principles may be to him who is at leisure quietly to master them on shore, the cabin of a ship in a storm is a poor school of philosophy. This, however, only shows the necessity there is that the seaman who would understand his profession should study and master all that science has brought to light, when he can do so on shore, and before he is caught in a storm which demands its immediate application. However, the instructions given by the earlier writers on these hurricanes are now more generally imderstood than they were, by the well informed seaman, particularly since they have been further explained and simplified by the more recent publication of Piddington. Of those residing at Mauritius who have earnestly studied and discussed the laws which govern these storms, may be mentioned Dr. Thom, whose writings are well known. Lieutenant Fryers, of the royal engineers, and Mr. Sedgewick, who has published a little work, which he calls "The True Principle," and which has been reviewed by Dr. Thom; and, lastly, a Creole gentleman attached to the observatory at Mauritius, Mr. Bosquett. This last named gentleman, who has translated into French Piddington's Horn book, with annotations of his own, claims to be able, by careful and constant meteorological observations, to foretell the existence of hurricanes in the Indian ocean, and to describe the course they will take. The day before the Mississippi left Mauritius, he informed the Commodore that a cyclone was then blowing in a direction E. by N. from the island, and that it would pass to the southward and eastward. By reference to the chart in Piddington's Horn book it will be seen that these cyclones never extend to the northward of 10° or 12° south latitude, in the meridian of Mauritius. Therefore, vessels leaving tlie island in the hurricane season, for any part of India, should steer to the northward, passing well to the westward of the Cargados, a most dangerous group, thus 1.5 .T 114 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. keeping a clear sea open to the westward that there may be nothing in the way should it be desirable to run to the northward and westward, which would be the true course to take in case of encountering the southwestern or northwestern quadrants of a cyclone, (which, in the hurricane season, a vessel from Mauritius is in danger of,) and this course she should keep until she is sufficiently far north to be beyond its influence. Steamers, of course, have superior means of avoiding these storms, as they have the power of steering the most judicious course to escape from their greatest fury. Following the advice of several experienced seamen, when the Mississippi left, she took the circuitous route (the distance from Mauritius to Ceylon being thereby made 150 miles greater) and pa ssed to the westward of the Cargados and between the island Galega and Laya de Mahla Bank ; thence, doubling -the northern extremity of that bank the ship was steered to the eastward for Pona Moluque, the southernmost of the Maldives ; after passing this the course was direct for Point de Galle in Ceylon. Before leaving the United States, Messrs. Howland & Aspinwall, of New York, at the suggestion of the Commodore, had dispatched two ships laden with coal, one to the Cape of ■ Good Hope, and the other to Mauritius. The prudence of this precaution was proved by the result ; but i'or these two cargoes the Mississippi, as well as the other steamers of the squadron which were to follow her — the Powhatan and Alleghany — woiild have had the greatest difficulty in procuring fuel. In the case of both cargoes, they arrived at their respective places of destination a few days before the Mississippi^ so that both at the Cape and Mauritius the ship was enabled at once to take in fresh fuel, and leave a supply for the steamers that were to come after.* Having taken on board about five hundred tons of this coal, with such other supplies as were needed, the Mississippi left St. Louis on the morning of the 28th of February, intending to touch for a further supply of fuel either at Point de Galle or Singapore, if it should appear pos- sible to reach the latter named place with the coal taken on board at Mauritius. The course was that already indicated above, and on the evening of the 10th of March the light was made on Point de Galle, island of Ceylon, after a passage of thirteen days. The port of Point de Galle is the general rendezvous of the English India mail steamers^ not only of those which ply to and fropa the Red sea, but of those which double the Cape of Good Hope, bound to India or the China seas. Large quantities of coal and patent fuel are brought from England and deposited there ; and though the quantity would seem to be enormous, yet so great is the consumption of the numerous steamers, of which there are about ten each month touching at the port, that there is sometimes an apprehension felt of the supply of fuel falling short. The Oriental Steam Navigation Company have consequently given positive orders not to supply a single ton to any foreign vessel-of-war, and consequently the Mississippi could obtain only a limited supply from the Bengal government. The town of Galle is situated upon a peninsula, the inner curve of which forms the harbor. Thick walls of considerable height enclose the town within a space of about fifteen acres. The • " To the zealous and energetic services of Messrs. Howland & Aspinwall, in the faithful fulfilment of their engagements with the Navy Department, I am greatly indebted ; had it not been for their prompt and effectual agency, I should have found myself seriously embarrassed in controllirg the movements of the steamers of ray command. The ample provision thus placed at my disposal not only relieved me from care upon the score of fuel, without which side-wheel steamers are worse than useless, but enabled me to exercise a most gratifying courtesy in furnishing to several foreign war steamers supplies of this essential article, which could not be obtained at the time from any other source." — Extractfrom tke Commodore's Journal. J.. rn m POINT DE GALLE. 115 inhabitants are thus shut up within a close fortress, from which the sea breezes are almost entirely excluded, and must suffer vejy much from the heat, which cannot be otherwise than excessive, in a latitude almost under the equator. The heat, however, is not so intense as on the neighboring coast of India. During the stay of the Mississippi th3 highest range of the thermometer (Fahrenheit) was 85°, and the lowest was 82°. The ordinary range at Point de Galle, however, is set down at from "70° to 87°. Point (le GiiUe, Ct-yluu. Fresh supplies of food of almost every description can be readily obtained at this port; bul- locks, pigs, fruit, and vegetables, abound. The fish are abundant and good. Wood is plentiful and tolerably good. Water can be obtained in reasonable quantities, but it is bad. The population of the town is composed of English officials and merchants, and a motley collection of tradesmen and laborers of all varieties of color, from negro black to dingy brown. The Commodore and his officers were not a little mortified, as well as somewhat embarrassed, by finding, on their arrival at Point de Galle, the United States commercial agent, a native of Scotland, confined to his premises under an execution for debt. Various accounts of the circum- stances connected with this unfortunate position of affairs were communicated to the Commo- dore, but he studiously avoided any interference with the matter. It was no part of his business or duty to interpose; and humiliating as was this state of things, he could not but feel that the fault was in the former consular system of the United States. Our country had no right to expect our consuls and commercial agents, many of whom were unfitted in every respect for their stations, either to represent or sustain the commercial interests of the nation so long as the 116 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. system then existing was followed. The fees at many of the i^laces where our consular agents were accredited, it was notorious would scarce suffice to clothe them, and, accordingly, to eke out a scanty living, they were often ohliged to resort to some sort of business, often not of the most dignified character. Of course, there were always honorable exceptions to this unfavorable state of things. Many of our consuls have been and are men of high position, who have not failed to exercise a strong influence upon the local governments within which they may have resided. But for this they have been less indebted to the consular office than to their deservedly high commercial standing; at the same time it may be true, that possessing such high personal characters as they do, in their cases, the consular office, worthily bestowed, may add somewhat to their influence. The recent action of Congress has shown the sense entertained by that body of the correctness of these views and of the need of reform ; and it is hoped the measures adopted will guarantee for the future a dignified representative of our commercial interests wherever we have a consul. Ceylon has been long known to Europe. The first accounts were received from two of the commanders of the fleet dispatched by Alexander the Great from the Indus to the Persian Gulf. A description of the island may be found recorded by ancient authors ; both Pliny and Ptolomeus have left accounts of its character and condition. It is supposed that the Persians had formed a Christian establishment on the coast before the sixth century ; and in the thirteenth the celebrated traveller, Marco Polo, visited Ceylon, of which he has left a glowing description, having been so much struck with its beauty and richness that in his enthusiasm he has termed it the finest island in the world. Sir John Mandeville, the English traveller, also visited it some fifty years later. The Portuguese, however, were the first among the Europeans to establish intimate relations with Ceylon. When they found their way to India, by the Cape of Good Hope, they were welcomed by the king, whose dominions at the time were a prey to intestine war. The Europeans taking advantage of the civil dissensions which prevailed, and offering themselves as mediators, succeeded in establishing a foothold in the country, which they took care to maintain. In 1520, the Portuguese strongly fortified themselves at Colombo, and held a controlling influence over the natives, until they were dispersed by the latter, aided by the Dutch, who, in their turn, changed tlieir relation of friends to that of masters of the people. The war with the Portuguese lasted more than twenty years, and they were not finally expelled the island until 1656. The various fortified positions at Batticolo, Point de Galle, Negombo, and Colombo fell into the hands of the Dutch, who thus controlled the maritime provinces. During the European wars at the end of the eighteenth century, the French got possession of Trincomalee, but they were ejected by the British, who in their turn were forced to yield it up to the former possessors, and it finally was restored to the Dutch, who continued to hold it, together with the sea coast, until they were wrested from them, in 1796, by the British, who were formally acknowledged as the possessors by the treaty of Amiens. English history records that the whole island, by the invitation of the natives, was taken possession of, in 1815, by the British crown, under the sovereignty of which Ceylon still remains. It is difficult to say who, of the successive masters of the poor Cingalese, have been the most cruel and oppressive, and, in fact, it is feared that but little can be said in palliation of the fraud and perfidy of either of them. ISLAND OF CEYLON. 117 In olden time, before its occupation by the Europeans, Ceylon was one of tbe richest and most productive of the kingdoms of the east. The natives, at a very early period, showed great skill in the development of the resources of the island, and increased the fertility of the soil by ingenious modes of artificial irrigation ; and numerous vestiges of imposing works, constructed for this purpose, remain to this day. The climate of Ceylon is very much influenced by the monsoons. The northeast prevails from November to February, and the southwest from April to September ; but there are certain local causes which influence these winds and modify their temperature. There is a great difi"erence between the climate of the northern and southern portions of the island, and a curious effect results therefrom ; for not seldom on one side of a mountain the rain is falling abundantly, while on the other it is so dry that the herbage is parched and withered ; and thus while the inhabitants of the former are doing their utmost to protect their lands from the flood, those of the latter are striving to obviate the consequences of the drought by availing themselves of the scant reservoirs of water which may have been left from iirevious rains. The island is comparatively healthy, as is indicated by the rate of mortality, which, being less than three per cent., shows a remarkable salubrity for an eastern country. As the clearing of the jungles and the draining of the marshes proceed, a still higher degree of health may be reasonably expected. Ceylon did not appear as flourishing a colony as the Mauritius, though it possesses superior geographical advantages. Lying, as it does, as a sort of outpost to the principal possessions of the English in the east, and oifering, in its port of Galle, a point for the distribution of intelligence throughout India and China, it is much resorted to. With all its natural advantages, however, the island at present is far less flourishing than might have been expected. The exports are limited in comparison with the acknowledged fertility of the island, to the productive power of which there would hardly seem to be any limit. Labor may be obtained, too, for twelve cents a day, and yet the agricultural interests are not as promising as, under such favorable circumstances, they should be. The natives, too, are said not to be wanting in industry, but their needs are so few, living, as they do, upon fish, rice, and cocoa-nuts, that they are never forced by necessity to labor hard for their subsistence. Of the productions of the island the cocoa-nut is probably the most valuable to the natives. Everywhere in Ceylon, as far as the eye can reach, extensive plantations of this tree are to be seen, and the numerous roads throughout the island are bordered with it. The weary and heated traveller finds not only protection from the sun in its shade, but refreshment from the milk of the fruit, which is both agreeable to the taste and wholesome. The cocoa-nut palm has a great variety of uses. The green fruit, with its delicate albuminous meat and its refreshing milk, is a favorite article of food. When ripe, the kernel of the nut is dried, forming what the natives term copperal, and an oil of great value is expressed from it, while the residuum forms an excellent oil-cake for the fattening of animals. Even the husk of the nut is useful ; its fibres are wrought into the coir rojje, of which large quantities are annually exported, and the shells are manufactured into various domestic utensils. From the sap of the tree a drink is obtained which is called "toddy," and made into arrack by distillation. The leaves afibrd a good material for the thatching of the native huts, and are moreover given as food to the elephants. The Palmyra palm, which also abounds in the island, shares with the cocoa-nut tree in many of its advantages. 118 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. The other staples of Ceylon are cinnamon, coffee, sugar, rice, arica nut, precious stones, plumbago, (probably the best in the world,) and other vegetable and mineral productions. The pearl fisheries, for which the island was once famous, have very much diminished in their yield. The natives account for the diminution by declaring that the pearl-oyster has the power of locomotion, and has shifted its former quarters to some new ground not yet discovered. The scarcity is probably owing to the fact that the pearls have been disturbed before they have reached their full development, which is said to require a period of seven years. At one time the fishery was a source of handsome revenue to the government ; in 1797 the sum of £140,000 was derived from it. Since that period the proceeds have gradually fallen off, until at present they amount to almost nothing. Diving for the pearl-oyster is a favorite occupation among the natives of Ceylon, as a skilful diver can earn ten times the wages of a farm laborer, and the employment is not, as has been stated, unfavorable to health, but, on the contrary, - conducive to strength and vigor of body. Ceylon abounds in a rich vegetation and many trees of a vigorous growth, among which, in addition to the cocoa-nut and Palmyra palm, there is the kettal tree, from the sap of which is produced a coarse sugar, and from its fruit, when dried and reduced to powder, a substitute for rice flour. The talipot, with its immense foliage, is one of the wonders of the island ; a single leaf of this tree is sufficient to cover beneath its shade several persons, and it supplies, when softened by boiling, a substitute for paper, upon which the natives are in the habit of writing, and find in it a most durable material. The cinnamon, with its beautiful white blossom and its red tipped leaves, and other odoriferous trees, are among the native products of Ceylon ; but the stories of the fragrance of the aroma exhaled from these trees and the plants, and which voyagers have described as sensible at a distance from the land, are gross exaggerations. No fragrance was observed equal to that of the magnolia or of the delightful perfume of the newly-mown grass of our own country, or in any degree approaching the delicious odor of the heliotrope and geranium hedges of Madeira. The cultivated flowers that were seen at Ceylon and at Mauritius were, in fact, remarkable for their want of fragrance. Rich woods of various kinds, as the rose, the ebony, the satin, and lime, grow in abundance on the island, and are used for many purposes of utility and ornament. Within the forests and in the jungles of Ceylon are found a great variety of wild animals — the elephant, the hyena, tiger-cat, the bear, the deer, and the monkey, are among the most abundant. The number of elephants is incredibly great, and, issuing in troops from their lairs, they come crushing down the cultivated fields and plantations and devouring the crops, with great loss to the proprietors. They are found in all the uncultivated parts of the island, but their favorite haunts are near to the farms, to which they prove so destructive that the colonial government pays a reward of 7s. 6d. (about $1 85) for every tail of the animal which is brought to the authorities. Mr. Talbot, the government agent at Galle, stated, surprising as it may seem, that he had paid during the preceding year two hundred pounds sterling for tails, which would give six hundred as the number of eleiihants destroyed. An army officer, as was stated to the Commodore, actually killed, during his residence on the island, no less than six hundred of these gigantic animals. Within a few months of the arrival of the Mississippi, two officers of the garrison, one of whom (Lieutenant Lennox) became personally known to the Commodore, destroyed no less than forty elephants in the course of a sporting visit of six weeks to the jungle. They are ordinarily shot with a rifle ; PEOPLE OF CEYLON. 119 the sportsman approaches his game in front, or perhaps, as the sailors would say, on the quarter, that he may aim at either of the only two vital parts upon which a rifle hall will have any effect, one heing directly in the forehead, through which the brain is penetrated, and the other behind the ear. If the hunter chance to come up to his elephant in the rear, he raises a shout or makes a noise, by which the huge animal is attracted, and, throwing forward its ears, exposes the vital spot, at which his ruthless enemy aims the deadly ball and brings down his huge victim. The elephants of Ceylon are not so large as those of other parts of India, and but a small proportion of them have tusks. Of serpents, there are but twenty species_, four only of which are venomous, the cobra and tic prolango being the most deadly. The latter is said to be endowed with great cunning, and to lie in wait for the purpose of attacking the passing traveller. The stories which are told of the anaconda, boa constrictor or python, seizing upon cattle and horses, and even horsemen, must be received as fabulous. There is, however, a species of boa peculiar to the island, which is capable of swallowing a deer whole, and after they have indulged in venison to that degree, and become surfeited with so substantial a meal, they fall readily a prey to the captor. This is believed to be the extent of the powers of deglutition of the Ceylon boas ; those enormous serpents, which are said to swallow an entire ox, horns and all, being unknown in that region. It may not be amiss to refer here to a remedy for venomous bites, for which popular opinion in the east claims considerable efficacy, this is a paste made by moistening the powder of ipeca- chuana with water, and applying it to the external injury. Some wonderful effects have been reported from the use of this simple means in various cases, of not only bites from venomous serpents, but of stings by the scorpion and various poisonous fish. The population of Ceylon is estimated at about 1,442,062, of whom 8,275 are whites, 1,413,486 colored persons, and 20,431 aliens and resident strangers. The inhabitants are composed of the natives, termed Cingalese, of a small proportion of Europeans, principally government officials, military officers and merchants with their families, and of negroes, Malays, and Chinese. The Cingalese were less ugly in appearance than was expected, many of the men, in fact, (as for the women few were seen, and none of the better class,) have expressive and even handsome faces, and their forms are not without symmetry. They seem to be amiable in dispo- sition and are remarkable for their eifeminate habits. So similar is the costume of the two sexes that it is difficult often for the casual observer to distinguish the man from the woman. The males allow their hair to grow to a great length, which they foster with much care, and fasten to the tops of their heads with large tortoise shell combs, such as our ladies at home might not be ashamed to wear. The common dress of the better class of the Cingalese is a jacket, worn next to the skin, and from the waist downward a colored petticoat, wrapped in graceful folds round the limbs and falling to the feet. The head, well protected as it is with the superabundant hair, is generally bare of any artificial covering. Some of the common people, however, wrap a cloth turban-wise around their brows, which they shift to their body when mingling with the crowds, and thus eke out their scanty drapery, which ordinarily consists only of a petticoat. Some of the abori- gines, who live in a rude condition within the fastnesses of the great forests, confine themselves in dress to the simple wardrobe of nature. In addition to the Cingalese, who are doubtless descendants of the aborigines of the island, there are the Malabars, whom tradition traces to the neighboring shores of India, and whose 120 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. religion and social cliaracteristics would seem to connect tliem with that country. They are Hindoos and preserve their religion and system of caste, together with the costumes of their original country, as well as their language, somewhat modified, however, hy their relation with the Cingalese. The neighboring islands and continents supply a population of Mahommedans or Moors to Ceylon, and they abound in several parts of the country, where, in the various orders into which their law of caste divides them, they carry on a prosperous business as weavers, fishermen, merchants, and bakers. They are among the most enterprising and thriving of the population, and their well known skill and industry have secured them much of the commercial wealth and influence of the island. The native language of the aborigines is peculiar to themselves, but their writings are in Sanscrit or Pali. A provincial dialect of Portuguese is, however, generally spoken by those natives who have passed their lives in the European portions of the island. The Christian religion was introduced at a very early period into Ceylon. It has been supposed that the apostle Saint Thomas preached there ; however this may be, there is but little doubt that the Nestorians accompanied the Persian merchants, many years ago, to the island and made converts there and established Christianity. On the arrival, however, of the Portuguese navigators there were no remnants of those chiirches which are said to have existed in Ceylon in the sixth century. The zealous Francis Xavier, the Koman Catholic missionary, however, was the first, by his earnest preaching and proselyting energies, to establish the Christian religion permanently on the island, and most of that faith are, accordingly, Komanists. The Church of England is, of course, sustained in accordance with the religious opinions of the British authorities ; and the various other Protestant churches have their members among the European residents. There are missionaries of various sects engaged in efl'orts to evangelize the native heathen, but with what success did not appear. Among these there are no less than eleven Americans ; and the different churches are represented in the proportion of thirty-four Komanist missionaries, twenty Wesleyan, fourteen of the English church, and thirteen Baptists. The predominant religion among the Cingalese is the Buddhist, which was at one time maintained by the British government, a heathen inheritance derived from the succession to the native kings. The tooth of Buddha, the relic so highly revered by his followers, was taken under the especial protection of English orthodoxy, and the ecclesiastical patronage of the Buddhist establishment was exercised by England, in accordance with the not very scrupulous views of political expediency. The guardianship of the tooth of Buddha, and the dispensation of Buddhist church patronage, have been, of late years, properly delegated by a Christian nation to a heathen priesthood. There are numerous Buddhist temples in Ceylon, some of which present an impressive aspect; and there is one of great antiquity and so much venerated as to attract votaries from various parts of India. On the arrival of the Mississippi there was a Siamese sloop-of-war in the harbor, which had brought a number of Buddhist priests on a pilgrimage to this temple. An interesting incident occurred in connexion with the presence of the Siamese man-of-war. For many reasons the Commodore was desirous of showing some marked attention to the commander of this vessel, who, on acquaintance, was found to be a young man of much intelli- gence and possessing some knowledge of the English language. The Commodore, therefore, dispatched his aid. Lieutenant Contee, to offer to him his services and to invite him on board the Mississippi. The Siamese commander seemed pleased with the compliment and came on INTERVIEW WITH A SIAMESE OFFICER. 121 board the Mississippi the following day, where he was received with due honors. He was accompanied by two of the Buddhist priests who had come from Siam in his vessel on a pilgrimage to the famous temple. It was learned, on inquiry, that Prince Phar-Pen-Clow- Chow-You-Hon, who was so civil to Mr. Roberts and the officers of the Peacock on the occasion Buddhist Temple, near Point de Galle, Ceylon. of their visit to Siam, in 1836, was the second in rank in his kingdom, or second king, as it is termed. The Commodore, therefore, being desirous of renewing the good understanding which formerly subsisted between him and our officers, which, however^ had been somewhat disturbed by the visit of Mr. Ballastier, sent him a beautiful pistol, of Coifs patent, and addressed to him the following letter : United States Ship Mississippi. Point de Galle, Island of Ceylon, March 14, 1853. Most Exalted Pri\ce : I have been most happy to meet at this port a vessel-of-war belong- ing to the kingdom of Siam, one of beautiful form and construction, and commanded by an officer of skill and merit. In remembrance of the kindness you extended to the late Mr. Roberts and the officers of the United States ship Peacock, in ISSR, I beg your acceptance of a curious pistol which has been entrusted to my charge, to be presented to some high functionary who has sufficient acquaintance with the arts to understand its mechanism and use. 16 J 122 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. The renown which your Highness has acquired in America, for your attainments in every branch of science, induces me to jjlace at your disposal this trifling gift of Mr. Colt. I hope that you will send one of your ships of Siam to America, where I can promise the officers a friendly and honorable welcome. It will, at all times, give me the greatest pleasure to render to all vessels under the Siamese flag whatever aid or assistance it may be in my power to command. With profound respect I have the honor to be your most obedient servant, M. C. PERRY, Commander-in-chief of all the U. S. naval forces in the East India, China, and Japan seas. To his Royal Highness Phar-Pen-Clow-Chow-Yon-Hon. The Commodore was induced thus to take the initiative in endeavoring to open communica- tions with Siam, in the hope that he might possibly be able to revive the treaty between that kingdom and the United States, made on our part by Mr. Roberts. This had virtually become a dead letter and altogether inoperative, as had, indeed, also that made by England with the same people. Sir John Davis and Sir James Brooke, on behalf of England, and Mr. Ballastier, on the part of the United States, had made subsequent efforts and been politely repulsed ; but the Commodore hoped that possibly another attempt might result more successfully ; and as he had been entrusted by the government with several blank letters of credence, he was prepared to act on the authority of one of them should he find a favorable opening. Both the kings of Siam, and many of their officers, understand the English language, and one object of the Commodore was to induce the monarch to send one of his ships to the United States (they are all vessels, at once, both of war and commerce) to examine into our institutions, resources, &c. , and thus lead to friendly commercial relations. The Commodore subsequently received a courteous answer to his letter, and from that and private information which he had taken pains to get of his probable reception, he would have gone to Siam had not uncontrollable circumstances prevented. The Commodore also j^resented to Mun-Clow-Sar-Coun, captain of the Siamese sloop-of-war, a service sword and a copy of "Bowditch's Navigator." The Mississippi left Galle on the morning of the 15th of March, and after getting clear of the harbor, shaped her course for Great Nicobar Island, the southernmost of the group of that name, with the intention of passing between it and Paloway, a small island or rock lying off the northern extremity of Sumatra. On the 20th, Great Nicobar was made, and the proposed course having been taken, the steamer entered the straits of Malacca, steering for the Malay shore, on which side the weather is represented as being more settled and the sky less obscured. Fortunately, the weather was favorable during the passage through the straits, and it was found necessary to anchor once only during the night, at the entrance between the North and South Sands, within sight of the Aroa islands. The navigation of the straits did not appear to the Commodore as dangerous as an examination of the chart had led him to expect ; yet it is somewhat intricate and certainly not free from danger. A vessel has, however, the advantage of being always able to anchor, though, in some parts of the channel, necessarily in rather deep water. The two most dangerous passages are tliose termed the East and We.st Channel ; and the narrow one between Formosa bank and the Pyramids lying opposite, and the northern end of the middle bank. A light vessel recently anchored on "Two-and-a-half fathom bank" renders tlie former passage more safe ; while the PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAITS OF MALACCA. 123 latter is made more secure by the high hind of Cape Formosa, the bearings of and distance from which will, in clear weather, indicate the mid-channel. Pilots may be procured for vessels, when bound toward the China seas, at Penang, and at Singapore when their course is in an opposite direction. The Mississippi took no pilot, as time could not be spared for communicating with Penang; and, in fact, with good charts and a careful look out, together with pioper precautions in anchoring when necessary, a pilot is of little further service than to identify the names of headlands and islands, and to explain the tides and currents. Indeed, by trusting too much to the pilots, who are mostly irresponsible natives, ships may fall into dangers which the experience and prudence of their captains, if left to their own judgments, would avdid. In passing through the straits, the Mississippi met H. B. M. ship Cleopatra, towed by a small war steamer, bound in an opposite direction. The senior English ship, on coming near, honored the broad pendant of the Commodore with a salute ; which compliment was promptly rcsj^onded to by an equal number of gims. Mississippi saluted by an English Frigate in the Straits of Malacca. It is a fact worthy of remark, that the usual vertical rise and fall of the tides in the Straits of Malacca is from twelve to fourteen feet, while in other parts of the world, in the same latitude, there is scarcely any variation. The tides at Singapore correspond, in this respect, witli those in the Straits. On entering from the Straits of Malacca into what is called the Straits of Singapore, the islands became numerous and the passages oonsequently various and intricate ; but tlie directions 124 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. given by Horsburgh are so full and explicit, that by a strict observance of tbem, together with proper vigilance and judgment, the lead being kept in constant use and the anchor always in readiness, there is no very great danger of touching. With a judicious regard to these precautions, the Mississippi made her way securely through all the intricacies of the course, and finally, on the 25th of March, came to anchor in the port of Singapore. SINGAPORE, ■ITS GREAT COMMERCE. 125 CHAPTER V. SINGAPORE. ITS GREAT COMMERCE. POPULATION. RAPID INCREASE. HOSPITALITY OF A WEALTHY CHINESE MERCHANT. IMPORTANCE OF SINGAPORE TO ENGLAND. COAL DEPOT AT SINGAPORE. PHYSICAL ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. AGRICOLTBRAL PRODUCTS. ANIMALS. FEROCITY OF THE TIGER WATER BUFFALO. PASSAGE FROM SINGAPORE TO HONG KONG. CURRENTS, ROCKS, TIDES. CHINESE FISHING BOATS. ARRIVAL AT HONG KONG. FINDING THERE SLOOPS-OF-WAR SARATOGA AND PLYMOUTH AND STORE SHIP SUPPLY. SUSQUEHANNA GONE TO SHANGHAE. DISAPPOINTMENT OF THE COMMODORE. CONDITION AND PROSPERITY OF HONG KONG. RUN TO MACAO, THENCE TO WHAMPOA ON CANTON RIVER. NAVIGATION OF THE RIVER. FIRST IMPRESSIONS MADE BY THE CITY. DISAPPOINTED EXPECTATIONS. HOSPITALITY OF AMERICAN CONSUL AT CANTON. THE HONGS OR FACTORIES. STREETS IN CANTON. PROPER NAME OF THE CITY. BOCCA TIGRIS. CHINESE FORTS. PIRATES ON THE RIVER. ATTEMPT TO ROB ONE OF THE OFFICERS. CANTON MARKET PLACE. TRADE OF CANTON WITH EUROPE AND AMERICA. HE port of Singapore is a great re!3ort for shijis of all nations. Vessels from China, Siam, Malaya, Sumatra, and the various commercial countries of Europe and America, are to be seen anchored together at the same time. The products of these different parts of the world t are all to he found in Singapore, brought thither for 5 reciprocal exchange. The policy which has made Singa- pore a free port has been fully justified by the prosperous result. Its commerce, being entirely unshackled, flour- ishes even beyond the most sanguine anticipations of those enlightened and enterprising men who but a few years ago established Singapore as a free port. Notwithstanding the restricted productions of the place, which could do no more than supply business for the scant trade of a few vessels, Singapore has been, by the liberal policy pursued, elevated to the imposing position of a great commercial mart. Its trade embraces China, India and the archipelagos of the oriental seas, Australia, Europe, and America. Nearly the whole world of commerce seeks, in a greater or less degree, its ever crowded harbor. The commerce with China is very considerable, and is carried on by means of Chinese vessels. The junks come down from the China seas with the northeast monsoon, and remain in port, retailing their cargoes of teas, silks, and other products, until the southwest monsoon is fairly set in, when they return to prepare for another voyage, and thus keep up a succession of periodical trading visits. They bring large numbers of enterprising Chinese emigrants, together with abundant supplies of dollars, teas, silks, chinaware, tobacco, cassia, nankeen.s. 126 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. gold thread, and the thousand " nicknackeries" of cunning invention for which Chinefse ingenuity is famous. They take hack the pernicious opium, edihle birds' nests, and various articles of European manufacture. The town of Singapore is huilt upon an island, separated from the Malay peninsula by a narrow and scarcely navigable strait. The ancient capitol of the Malayan kingdom, or, as it was sometimes called,, the kingdom of Malacca, formerly stood upon the site of the present town. This old city was built in the twelfth century, and conquered by a chief from Java, who transferred the royal residence to Malacca. From that period its population and wealth gradually declined, so that in 1819, when the English took possession, there were but few vestiges of the former city, which indeed had become but a haunt for pirates, where, as well as in the neighboring islands and passages, they found a secure retreat from the vessels of the English and the Dutch sent in pursuit of them. The natives still offer for sale models of the various descriptions of the Malay war, pirate, and sailing proas ; and most of them present exceedingly beautiful specimens of graceful form. So much was the Commodore struck with the beauty of the model of the sailing proa that he purposed sending one home to the New York yacht club. Malay Proa. The town bears all the appearance of being in a most prosperous condition ; its port, as we have said, is always crowded with shipping, and its traders are thriving and wealthy. Marine storehouses are seen throughout the place, but chiefly along the front of the harbor and upon the quay. The principal merchants occupy commodious and tasteful residences, built fronting SINGAPORE. 127 the bay. There is a striking contrast in the dwellings of those who have settled in this thriving place, between the elegant and convenient town and country houses of the colonial officials and merchants and the ill ventilated and filthy domiciles of the Chinese, or the frail tenements of the Malays. The latter ordinarily select some marshy ground in the suburbs, near a road or pathway, and rear upon piles their wooden houses, the only entrance to' which is by means of temporary bridges, often constructed of a single plank. The prosperity of Singapore, so apparent even to the casual observer, is mainly to be attrib- uted to the sagacious and energetic Sir Stamford Raffles, who pursued with untiring zeal, in spite of the opposition of many in higher authority, his determined purpose of carrying out his favorite projects of policy in the administration of the colony. The population at the period of the Mississippi's visit was estimated at eighty thousand, a number which shows a very rapid increase since it fell into the possession of the British, at which time there were scarce two hundred on the whole island of Singapore. The inhabitants are made up of Jews, Chinese, Arabs, Malays, and natives of the neighboring countries. Tlie Europeans count the least, and the Chinese the largest number ; of these last it was stated that there are no less than sixty thousand, who are the artisans, fishermen, laborers, and small dealers of the place ; an industrious class, to which the colony is indebted for much of its trading activity. Mosque in Singapore. These various people who inhabit Singapore retain their national habits and customs, and their peculiar modes of worship. The Chinese lets grow his tail, smokes his opium, and offers incense to Jos ; the Arab sports his turban, invokes the name of the prophet, and prostrates himself within the mosque, while the European shaves his beard, drinks London porter, and 128 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. takes his seat in the church pew. Most of the different nations have their places of worship ; there are Chinese temples and Mahommedan mosques, as well as Christian churches. A curious confusion of religions seems to have resulted from the intermingling of sects, as may he inferred from what was seen hy the Commodore on a visit to a Chinese temple. In one of the recesses of the place the devil was represented in human form, but of exceedingly hideous physiognomy, Avhile in front of him was placed an image of the virgin and child. This was certainly a very strange assortment of company, and naturally set the Commodore to conjecturing as to what could possibly have brought together such very opposite characters ; whether the intention was to represent the mother and child as at the mercy of the devil, or the reverse, was not very clear, although, from the decidedly uncomfortable expression of his satanic majesty's face, it might be inferred that he was less at his ease than any of the company, and quite out of his element. It was, however, concluded that the bringing of Christian personages into a Chinese temple was in some way connected with the early introduction of the Eomish religion by the Portuguese missionaries. The stay of the Mississippi at Singapore was so short that there was but little opportunity to see much of the European society. Visits and salutes were exchanged with the acting governor and with the commander of the niilitary forces ; these, together with some official business transacted with the United States consul, were the extent of the Commodore's intercourse with the European residents. With, however, a Chinese merchant, who seemed to be imbued with the true spirit of hospitality, many of the officers of the ship formed an agreeable acquaintance^ and were hospitably entertained at his house. This gentleman's name is Whamj^oa, a man of courteous bearing and great intelligence, and who had made considerable progress in the English language, which he sjioke with some fluency. His country residence was the most beautiful on the island. The house was large, commodious, and tastefully furnished, and its rooms were filled with objects of curiosity and vertu. Surrounding the dwelling were extensive pleasure grounds and plantations, on which the various productions of the island, the useful as well as ornamental, were cultivated to great perfection. There were collections of animals and rare birds, among which were the cassowary and crowned pigeon from New Guinea, and a singular breed of perfectly white pea-fowl. The residence of the hospitable Whampoa, where the Commodore dined and spent the night, was surrounded by all that could delight the eye, or add to the enjoyment of life. Among other luxurious appanages of the establishment, there was a beautiful white Arabian horse, kept by Whampoa for his own especial use under the saddle, and the Commodore was very much struck by its symmetry of form, purity of color, and excellence of temper, for it was as docile as a lamb. In a military and geographical point of view, Singapore is of vast importance to England. By means of it, and with an effective naval force, this entrance to the China seas may be commanded. Its position is vastly advantageous in a commercial point of view, from which it has become an entrepot for the neighboring kingdoms of Sumatra, Borneo, Siam, Cambodia, and Cochin China. To Sir Stamford Baffles, who proved himself a master spirit in every enterprise he undertook, the British government and the East India Company are indebted for this valuable acquisition, and there was, it must be confessed, some show of equity in his mode of proceeding. Baffles actually purchased from the Bajah of Jahore and Singapore the right of sovereignty over the island and its dependencies for a stipulated sum and an annual pensimi, and it is believed that ^^^ s.% f From hfe U E hrcn. .),■ RAJAH OF JAHORE [SINGAPORE /;//( ol' SAHn.VY Sc /-. Yr^ya.li SINGAPORE. 129 the payments liave been regularly made. This is an example which has been very rare among the European governments, -who have generally seized violently upon the finest countries without scruple^ and subjected the inhabitants to political, if not to social, servitude. The Eajah had reason to pride himself upon his bargain with Baffles, when he reflected how much better he had been treated than his royal ancestors, who had been driven from their homes and despoiled of their possessions by the former European invaders. The present Eajah, with his numerous wives and children, occupy a native village about a mile from the English town. The Commodore did not see him, but his son, a fine intelligent youth, came on board the ship to pay his respects. His father probably thought his dignity called for the first visit from the Commodore, which, however, was prevented by reason of engagements. As a stopping place and depot for coal Singapore, is of great importance to the English mail- steamers. The wealthy and enterprising Oriental Steam Navigation Company have erected at New Harbor, about two and a half miles from the town, a magnificent depot, comprising wharves, coal-.sheds, storehouses, workshops, and other buildings, such as would do credit to any English colonial establishment ; and this is no slight praise. Singapore is in the course of the regular mail route between India, China, Australia, and Europe. There is a constant postal communication, by means of the English and one or more Dutch steamers, with Hong Kong, Penang, Batavia, Shanghai, Calcutta, Madras, Bengal, Bombay, Ceylon, the Mauritius, Cape of Good Hope, and, by the Bed Sea, with Europe and America. Supplies of most kinds required by vessels can be obtained at fair prices in the port of Singa- pore. The water is good, and is supplied from tanks, under the supervision of an official of the place, the master attendant. There was not a pound of coal, however, to be purchased at Singapore, and there was reason to fear that the Mississippi would be deprived of her necessary supplies. It was not practicable to make any arrangement with the Labuan Company, for the whole produce of the mines under their control was exhausted by the Oriental and Pacific Com- pany, with which a contract existed for a supply of one thousand tons per month. Fortunately for the Mississippi, however, the stock of the last named company at Hong Kong was falling short, and, as it was difficult to procure vessels to transport an additional supply, the agent of the company at Singapore agreed to lend the Commodore two hundred and thirty tons, provided it would be returned at Hong Kong. By this arrangement both parties were accommodated, the Mississippi obtaining her necessary supply at Singapore, and the company securing what they wanted at their principal Chinese depot, without the expense of its conveyance. The chief articles of export from Singapore are tin, nutmegs, sugar, drugs, tortoise shell, and some minor commodities, the product of the neighboring countries. The British settlement of Singapore embraces not only the island of that name, but a number of smaller ones scattered about in the neighboring seas. The main i.sland, Singapore, is about twenty-five miles long, and fifteen in breadth, containing an estimated area of two hundred and seventy-five square miles. Inland, the surface of the country is diversified with low hills and shallow valleys, while the sea shore is low and overgrown with mangroves, and occasionally broken by the entrances of salt creeks, which, penetrating sometimes to the extent of six or seven miles, overflow their banks, and convert the neighboring soil into marsh. The artists of the expedition have supplied a view of the river Durong, which will give an idea of the characteristic scenery. When the English first obtained possession of Singapore the island was covered with a forest, 17 J 130 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. and entirely without cultivation. Now, in the neighborhood of the town, and extending more or less into the interior, there are considerable plantations, which have been chiefly cultivated by the industrious immigrants from China. Kice, coffee, sugar, and other agricultural produc- tions of the warmer latitudes are obtained, but the supjily is not sufficient for the consumption of the island. The tropical fruits grow readily, among which the mangusteen reaches great perfection^ although its taste did not equal the anticipations formed from the boasted delicious- ness of its flavor. The fruit, however, was not in full season during the ship's stay, and it may possibly not have reached the height of its excellence. The nutmeg is cultivated with considerable success, as well as the cocoa-nut, orange, and other tropical fruits. Various European animals have been introduced into the island. The horse in use is a stumpy, fiery little creature, wonderfully strong for its size. It is generally harnessed to a light carriage which is in common use on the island, and may be hired in the streets of the town at a moderate price for the day. The driver seldom takes his seat upon the box, but runs at the head of his horse, and keeps up a speed in company with the animal of six and sometimes even seven or eight miles an hour. This plan suggests a good hint for the prevention of cruelty to animals, as it has the effect of securing a humane consideration for the beast, which is not likely to be over driven, when for every step it takes its driver takes two, and is thus forcibly reminded of a fellow feeling which cannot fail to make him "wondrous kind." The native animals are generally the same as those of the adjacent peninsula, from which many of them migrate. The tigers especially entertain a great partiality for Singa- pore, and resort there in great numbers by swimming across the strait which separates the main land from the island. These are the genuine animals, which have no hesitation in pouncing upon a passing traveller, or snatching up and making a meal of any unfortunate Chinaman or native who may happen to be in the jungle, busy in cutting wood, clearing land for the rice plantations, or otherwise occupied. It was stated on the best authority that not a day passes without the destruction of one human being at least by these ferocious beasts. The Commodore was at first somewhat disposed to be incredulous of this statement, but as the acting governor and commander of the forces both confirmed it, he could no longer hesitate to accept it as truth. He was told by them that so much of an every day occurrence was this fatality, that many of the cases were not reported, in order to avoid the trouble and expense of a coroner's inquest, which the laws require. "Death by tiger," however, is a verdict that might be rendered daily were the legal formalities complied with. It is said, and probably with truth, that the tiger, after he has once tasted of human flesh, becomes so fond of it that he prefers its flavor to that of his ordinary venison or wild boar, and will make every effort to obtain a supply of his favorite food. It is this intense longing for human flesh which makes the tiger so very dangerous to the inhabitants of Singapore, especially to the poor Malay or Chinese who may be obliged to expose himself in the jungle and the forest. It was said, too, that the animal showed decided preference for a Chinaman. Nor do these stories of the tiger seem very wonderful, when the fact is well established that those savages who are addicted to cannibalism become passionately fond of their horribly unnatural food. There is a tribe of Malays, called Battas, who, like their fellow Malay tigers, are said by Sir Stamford Rafiles to eat one another, and to prefer such food to any other. Nor are they to be classed entirely among barbarians, for these Battas can read and write, and have codes of laws of great antiquity ; and yet, according to the authority just named, not less than from sixty to a hundred Battas are eaten annually, even during a time of peace. SINGAPORE. 131 In addition to the tigers there are deer and wikl boars found upon tlie island^ and several varieties of smaller animals, the monkey, the wild hog or peccary, the jjorcupine and the sloth. Birds abound, and among them are some of great beauty. Serpents are not very numerous, but among them is the venomous cobra. A singular animal, called the water buffalo, was more particularly observed at Singapore. It apjjroaches in size to the ox of our country, and like it is used as an animal for draught, being harnessed to the shafts of a cart and guided by a driver, who holds a rope which is fastened to a ring or thong passed through the cartilage which divides the nostrils of the animal. The skin of this beast is rough and not unlike that of the rhinoceros, and though the water buffalo has somewhat the general appearance of the ox, its head is altogether different. Notwithstanding the seeming thickness and toughness of its hide, it suffers greatly from the flies, and to avoid them keeps, except during feeding time, in the water ; hence, probably, its name. Inquiries were made about two remarkable inhabitants of the waters about Malacca and Sumatra, described by Kaffles : the sailing fish, called by tlie natives ikan layer, and the duyong, mentioned by Valentin, and so long talked of as the mermaid; but the Commodore was told by the inhabitants of Singapore that these fish had become very scarce, if not entirely extinct. Malay Tombs, Xear Singapore. Shells collected upon the adjacent coasts and along the Straits of Malacca are brought in large quantities to Singapore for sale, and some excellent specimens were obtained. The various people who inhabit Sumatra, the Malayan peninsula, and the numerous islands in tlie adjacent seas, are all of the JIalay family. This race is widely distributed, not only over 132 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. the Indian archijielago, but throughout the South Sea islands, as it is generally conceded that the natives of the latter are of the same origin as the former. Analogous physical character- istics, customs and languages would seem to prove this relationship. The Mississippi having taken on hoard the necessary supplies of fuel, left Singapore on the 29th of March. The ship proceeded through the middle channel, passing near a light-house erected on the rock called "Pedra Branca." This course was taken with the view of running up on the Cochin China and Hainan shores. It is not necessary to say much in regard to the navigation of the China sea, since so much has already been published on the subject. It may, however, be stated in general terms, that nearly the whole expanse of sea fronj Borneo and Palawan across to Cochin China is rendered dangerous by numerous coral reefs, banks and islands. Many of these banks and reefs are below the surface of the sea, and although the hydrograpical surveys may have truthfully stated their depths when they were taken, and reported a sufficiency of water for vessels to pass, it must not be forgotten that such is the rapidity with which those little architects, the coral zoophites, build up these foundations of future islands, that the work of a few years may materially change the character and dejjth of the soundings. With such obstructions the China sea cannot be navigated without danger, and especially in stormy weather. Notwithstanding, thousands of vessels go annually through its various passages in safety, while a disaster occurs now and then only. The surface currents are influenced by the prevailing winds, but the tides, as in other parts of the world, are governed by some mysterious laws which the wisdom of man has not yet entirely fathomed. The vertical rise and fall of the tide upon the coast of Cochin China varies from six to fourteen feet, and the periods and duration of the ebb and flood are by no means regular. In latitude 12°, on the same shore, there is but one tide in the course of twenty-four hours. It has been said that the tides in the tropics rise and fall very little. Although it is granted that in high latitudes the perpendicular flow and ebb is generally greater than in low, still there are many examples of considerable tides in the latter. At the head of the Gulf of Cambay, in latitude 22°, Horsburgh states that the perpendicular depth of the rise and fall of the tides is from thirty to thirty-six feet at the full and change of the moon. So also, according to the same authority, in Surat road, it is from twenty to twenty-one feet, and from fifteen to seventeen in Bombay harbor. Again, in the Gulf of Martaban, which is far within the tropics, the rise and fall of the tide, at the full and change of the moon is twenty-three and twenty-four feet, and off Kangoon bar about twenty or twenty-one feet. In Caspar straits, within 2J° of the equator, there is occasionally, from local causes, a rise and fall of sixteen or seventeen feet on the spring tide, but this is rare in places so near the equator. These instances, all from Horsburgh, show that very considerable tides occur within the tropics. The observation of the Commodore in regard to the single tide in twenty-four hours, on the shore of Cochin China, is paralleled by analogous instances, also reported by Horsburgh, who remarks : " Although in most places the tide ebbs and flows twice in every twenty-four hours, this is not universally the case within the tropics ; for among several of the eastern islands the tide flows only once in twenty-four hours." In many places, far beyond the tropics, the tide likewise flows only once in twenty-four hours, particularly on the southern coast of Van Dieman's land ; but at Port Dalrymple, on the north coast, the tide flows twice in twenty-four hours. The zodiacal lights glowed in brilliant radiations almost every morning and evening during the time the Mississippi was in the equatorial latitudes ; and the chaplain, (Mr. Jones,) I pel o I CD '^ NAVIGATION OF THE CHINA SEA. 133 who made this matter a subject of especial notice and study, had a good opportunity of continuing his observations upon the phenomena of this remarkable appearance. On the morning of the Gth of April, as the ship was proceeding on her course, vast numbers of fishing boats were descried as far as the eye could reach. No less than two hundred and sixty-nine of these little craft were counted, at one time, from the poop. They were sailing in couples, about ninety fathoms apart, before the wind, with a net extended between each two. They were curiously rigged, having square sails set upon two or three masts, which had, at a distance, somewhat the appearance of courses and topsails, which they hoisted and lowered as they desired to graduate the rate of sailing, in order to keep way with their consorts. These vessels were engaged in taking a small fish similar to the sardine of the Mediterranean, and the same mode of netting them is pursued in both localities. The appearance of these craft was a sure indication of the proximity of land, and accordingly, at half past ten in the morning, it was sighted. The ship continuing her course toward the roadstead of Macao, was anchored at dark under the Ladrones. On the following morning she proceeded to Macao roads, and after a commimication with the shore, the course was continued on to Hong Kong, where she finally came to anchor about sunset of the same day. Here were found the sloops-of-war Plymouth and Saratoga, and the store-ship Supply ; the two former of which, as the Mississippi let go her anchor, fired the usual salute, which was duly returned from the guns of the Mississippi ; the Susquehanna, however, was nowhere to be seen. This vessel had been designated by the government as the flag-ship of the Commodore, who, much to his surprise and disappointment, found that she had sailed a fortnight previously for Shanghai, having on board the United States commissioner to China, the Honorable Mr. Mar.shall, as well as Dr. Parker, the secretary of legation, and Mr. Forbes, the United States consul at Canton, all of whom the Commodore desired particularly to see, before sailing for Japan. No other course was left to him therefore, but to dispatch the Plymouth to the same port, with instructions to Commander Buchanan of the Susquehanna to await there the Commodore's arrival in the Mississippi, which he meant should follow the Susquehanna as soon as she could be prepared for the northern cruise ; and fortunately Shanghai was at no great distance out of the route to Japan. On the following day the customary interchange of salutes was made with the forts and the foreign vessels of war in port, and this was succeeded by an exchange of personal courtesies among the officers of the various nations represented. With Commodore Eoquemausel, of the French navy, particularly, who had his pennant on board the frigate Capricieuse, the Commo- dore enjoyed a very agreeable intercourse, both official and personal. The English admiral, Sir F. Pellew, was absent. It is unnecessary to note, on every occasion, the courtesies that American officers invariably receive from the British authorities abroad, civil, naval, and military. "In no instance," remarks the Commodore, "during a long service in foreign countries, have I experienced any want of hospitable attention ; and, in fact, the governments of all nations, with the exception of that of the United States, furnish the means for public entertainments by ample allowance of ' table money,' and it thus becomes a duty, as it is doubtless the pleasure, of these ofiicials to expend it hospitably." The stay of the Mississippi was but short at Hong Kong; long enough, liowever, to make apparent every sign of commercial prosperity, although the place is not very attractive to visitors. There is no picturesque beauty in the appearance of the town, albeit some travellers 134 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. have described it in glowing colors. It is a jncture of busy activity ; the shore is lined ■with Chinese boats, the harbor is crowded with the shipping of all nations, and the toiling Chinese are kept at work in the roads, or in other labors required by this progressive place. When the English took possession of the island of Hong Kong, in 1841, there was but a bleak and barren hill-side where there now stands the city of Victoria. The population of the place now amounts to no less than 14,671, and while its commercial warehouses, its docks and piers, and its fleet of traders, give evidence of its material prosperity, its social, intellectual, and Barber Boy, Hong Kong. religious progress are proved by its club-houses, reading-rooms, schools, and churches. Heathenism has also its visible signs. The Chinese have three temples, and the Mahommedans a mosque at Hong Kong. The island rises at the north in a range of mountains, the base of which terminates near the sea, leaving a narrow edge, along which the town of Victoria extends for two or three miles. DO t?d § en CD :^ ~^=5^C*ft'- '^. V-5?^jjcii55-^a^}i^-< V^r^. WHAMF'OA PACOrA R: ANCHORAGE HONG KONG. 135 There is a large trade in opium between India and Hong Kong, it being imported into tbe latter place, and thence smuggled into China along the coast. There is no very extensive agricultural culture at Hong Kong, as the land for the most part is rocky, and of little fertility. On the southern part of the island, however, the soil is some- what more favorable than that on the northern, and it contains a single valley which is tolerably productive. There is an abundance of excellent water. The climate is hot, and as the alternations of rain and heat keep up an active decomposition in the marshy districts of the island, they render it quite unwholesome. The southern side of Hong Kong is the more healthful, as it is refreshed and purified by the southwestern monsoon, but being destitute of good harbors, the English were obliged to fix their settlement on the north. The laboring class and the small traders are chiefly Chinese, who are ever on the alert for gain. Their bazaars invite the passing stranger on every street, and the itinerant artizans go busily tramping in their daily routine. There are many striking figures among them, with their peculiar costumes and novel implements of labor. Our artist caught a vivid impression of the Hong Kong barber boy. On leaving Hong Kong the Mississippi went to Macao, and thence to Whampoa, on the Canton river, where she anchored. In this river there are certain bars, audit is necessary not only to take a pilot, but to employ small Chinese boats, which are stationed at the sides of the crooked channel, and on the bars alluded to, as guides. As the boats receive a dollar each for this service, they are called "dollar boats." Whampoa, which is the anchorage for all large vessels whose business is with Canton, is on the river, about twelve miles from that city. The pagoda here is a marked object, and however it may be venerated by the Chinese, on religious grounds, is no less regarded for its usefulness as a land mark by foreign vessels, for they steer and anchor by its bearings. The passage to Canton is made in boats, and is by no means very agreeable. The Commodore was sadly disappointed in the appearance of the stream, which he describes as muddy and shallow, with scarcely a hut upon its banks until the city is nearly reached ; and then swarms of floating habitations are seen moored to the banks, five or six tiers deep, and occupied by a wretched half clad people. Through these two lines of receptacles of poverty and filth which thus border the stream you pass to the mercantile factory, the residence of most of the foreign merchants, and the spot where the stranger lands. Hence he is conducted to the houses of those to whom he bears letters of introduction, where he is hospitably received and takes up his lodging, as there are no comfortable places of public entertainment in this quarter. The first impression made by Canton was one of decided disappointment. Perhaps too much had been anticipated, but, from the glowing descriptions the Commodore had read of the place, he had imagined that it would be more striking to a stranger than in his case it proved to be. He expected to behold myriads of boats, decked with gay banners, and moving with cheerful activity in all directions. His fancy had sketched a pleasing picture of beautiful floating domiciles, moored under the banks of the river, and inhabited by a hundred thousand people in variegated costume ; he recalled to memory the stories of the lofty pagodas lifting roof above roof, the delightful residences expanding their spacious quarters from terrace to terrace, and the snug cottages with the picturesque bridges and the comfortable Chinaman under the shade of a willow, with nothing to do but fish, of all which we have been accustomed to read, and pictures of which served to amuse us in our childhood. 136 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. But the sketches of imaginative boyhood were, in this as in so many other instances, disiDclled by the sober realities of maturer years. There was nothing of all this beautiful picture of crowded and happy life. There were, indeed, boats and people, pagodas and cottages, bridges and trees ; but there were also filth and noise, poverty and misery, lying and roguery, and, in short, anything but a picture of quiet content and Arcadian simplicity. On the visit of the Commodore to Canton, he, together with several of his officers, was accom- modated at the house of Mr. Forbes, the consul of the United States and head of the firm of Kussell & Co. Mr. Forbes was absent at the time, but the hospitalities of his establishment were most freely dispensed by one of his partners, Mr. Spooner. So well known was this establishment, and so highly appreciated were its proprietors by the Chinese, that all that was necessary in making a purchase in the city was simply to direct the shopkeeper to send the article to the house of Mr. Forbes, and there never was any hesitation in assenting at once. The same may be said indeed of all the American houses, with resj)ect both to hospitality and the confidence of the Chinese. The comparatively small space occupied by the foreigners on the river side is, notwithstanding its limited extent, quite a pleasant spot. The whole quarter contains but about four acres. The foreign merchants occupy the large buildings in the rear as places of business and abode, while the front, which includes a half of the whole area, is beautifully laid out as a garden, with an English church in the centre, and the flags of diflerent nations floating from tall poles planted in various spots. The grounds are arranged with walks and ornamented with shrubbery and flowering plants, presenting a delightful resort in the freshness of the morning or the cool of the evening. The stranger is struck with the peculiar aspect of the place, when on one side, in proximity to low, dingy, Chinese houses, buildings of European structure rise to the height of three or four stories, while on the other, the river is densely populous with the inhabited boats. The foreigners term their residences and places of business factories, but the natives designate them as Hongs, which is the usual Chinese word for a commercial establishment or warehouse. Although there are but few of the larger or public buildings in the foreign quarter, which is but a suburb of the city, there are all the ordinary varieties of streets, houses, and bazaars. Foreigners generally confine their visits to that part adjacent to the garden before mentioned, through which Old and New China streets run. The only hotel in the place frequented by Europeans and Americans is near the latter street, and is quite inferior. It is (as has been intimated) the hospitable practice of the foreign merchants to invite strangers to their princely establishments, where a generous proftision and a warm welcome are extended to the visitor. In addition to Old and New China streets, there is, hard by, a narrow^ filthy alley, not inappropriately called Hog lane, and filled with the most abandoned portion of the people^ who minister to the vicious appetites of the foreign sailors, supplying them with wretched grog and other dangerous stimulants. There are no drives or walks leading directly into the country from the foreign quarter ; the residents are, therefore, limited to the river, where, in the evening, they exercise themselves in rowing their swift little boats. On the opposite side of the river, however, on the island of Honan, there is a walk extending a mile or more to a Buddhist temple ; but there is little that is attractive in the surroimding country, and nothing peculiar about the temple, which is similar to the other joss houses. On a visit which was made to this spot by one of the officers CANTON. 137 of the expedition, a drove of sacred pigs were seen in their sacred styes, and they seemed to flourish exceedingly, for they were so fat that they could not stand. It was something of a curiosity (though somewhat saddening in the reflections it occasioned) to hehold this sanctified pork, and tlie reverence with which it was worshipped. Canton is the capital of the province of Kuan-tong, from which the name given to the city by Europeans has been corrupted. It is falsely applied, for it is the name of the province only, as we havejust said ; that of the city is Kuang-chow-foo. The city is built on two rivers, the Choo-Keang, or Pearl, and the Pi-Keang, which is a branch of the former. The mouth of the Choo-Kcang, \k-w ur old China t^trcL'l, CiiiUun. Pearl, or Canton river, is called the Bocca Tigris. It derives this name from the supposed resemblance of the hill tops, on Great Tiger Island, to the outline of a tiger's head. Although the resemblance is not at first very striking, it becomes quite obvious after examination. The river is guarded at its mouth, and at several points on its banks, by Chinese forts, which, with their white-washed walls and general pacific aspect, do not appear very formidable. The view, however, is pleasing, particularly at the Bocca Tigris, where the forts could be seen stretching their long white walls from the base to the summits of the hills. On one side is seen the "Dragon's Cave," and on the other the "Girl's Shoe," and various other fortifications with fanciful names ; and though some of them are admirably situated, they are all of a structure which prove them to be more remarkable for show than for solid utility. The river swarms with jiirates, the fishermen occasionally becoming their allies, and they 18 J 138 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. carry on fheir depredations unchecked in the very teeth of the forts. When the pirates fail of falling in with strangers whom they dare venture to roh, they fall out with each other, and murder and plunder their friends with as little compunction as if they were strangers. Ih the passage of flie Mississippi from Macao to Whampoa, the anchorage on the Canton river, one of the two Chinese hoats in tow was swamped hy had steering, whereupon the other, in fear of a similar catastrophe, cast off and attempted to proceed up the river. The owner, who happened to he on hoard the steamer, expressed his fears that she would he overhauled hy pirates before her arrival at Whampoa ; nor were his fears groundless ; she was hoarded and rohhed a few hours only after she had lost sight of the Mississippi. While the steamer was at Hong Kong several piracies were committed almost under the guns of the vessels-of-war. As for the land pirates, they are to the full as expert at picking and stealing as the most accomplished thieves and pickpockets of New York or London. One of the lieutenants of the Mississippi, at early twilight one evening, just as he was stej^ping into a hired boat to return to the ship, was seized amid a crowd of people, and an attempt was made to pull his watch from his fob ; fortunately his Pickwickian rotundity of form saved the watch, but the chain was carried off in triumph. From the mouth of the river to Canton the distance is about thirty-two miles, but the large vessels do not proceed further than the anchorage at Whampoa, ten miles below the foreign quarter of the city, with which communication is kept up by boats. The country adjacent to Canton is intersected with rivers and creeks, in which fish abound, and a plentiful market is daily open in the city. The alluvial ground south of the city is highly cultivated with rice fields and gardens. The higher ground to the north and east is wooded with firs and other trees. A wall encloses a portion of the city, which is subdivided by another wall running from east to west. North of the latter is that part called the inner or old city, which is inhabited chiefly by the dominant Tartar families, while to the south we find the new or outer city, where the inhabitants are mostly composed of the descendants of the original Chinese population. The streets are narrow^ tortuous, and winding, like a corkscrew, but thronged by an immense population, and so very contracted that there is often barely room for two sedan chairs, the only vehicles allowed, to pass each other. The great importance of Canton results from its being the emporium of the great trade of Europe and America with China ; the annual amount of which was, some years ago, estimated at eighty millions of dollars, the principal part of which is under the control of the merchants of England and the United States. Cuslom-house, Mouth of Cantou Kiver. HOSPITABLE TREATMENT AT MACAO. 139 CHAPTER VI. HOSPITABLE TREATMENT AT MACAO. USAGES OP THE FOREIGN MERCHANTS TOWARD VISITORS. DEPRESSED CONDITION OF MACAO. DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE. TAHEA BOATS, AND GIRLS WHO MANAGE THEM. CAVE OF CAMOENS. DEPARTURE OF MISSISSIPPI FROM MACAO. SARATOGA LEFT TO BRING MR. WILLIAMS, THE INTERPRETER — -DIFFICULTIES OF NAVIGATION FROM HONG KONG TO THE MODTH OF YANG-TSE-KEANG. ENTRANCE OF THE RIVER DANGEROUS. SUSQUEHANNA, PLYMOUTH, AND SUPPLY ALL AGROUND. MISSISSIPPI SAVED BY THE POWER OF HER ENGINES ONLY. DESCRIPTION OF SHANGHAI. ITS IMMENSE TRADE. CULTIVATION OF THE COUNTRY.- — POPULATION OF THE CITY VISIT OF THE COMMODORE TO THE GOVERNOR OF THE CITY. CHINESE REBELLION. ITS EFFECTS. PLYMOUTH LEFT AT SHANGHAI TO PROTECT AMERICAN INTERESTS. ^DEPARTURE FOR GREAT LEW CHEW. ARRIVAL OF THE SQUADRON AT THE CAPITAL, NAPHA, THE SARATOGA HAVING JOINED AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOR. N leaving Canton, Mr. Spooner, of the house of Kussell & Co., offered the Commodore the use of the magnificent residence at Macao belonging to that firm ; accordingly he, together with three of his ofiicers, took up his quar- ters in their sumptuous dwelling. The Commodore and his company, thinking that they were to he their own jjroviders, their caterer, one of the officers of the squadron, was very particular in ordering the head servant in charge of the establishment to procure this and that, and no sooner was a wish expressed than it was promptly at- tended to. Great, then, was the surprise, on the comple- tion of the visit, to find that not a penny would be received beyond the ordinary gratuity by that prince of major-domos. He said that liis employers were always happy to have their house occupied by their friends, and he expressed a hope that the Commodore and liis companions would not think of going elsewhere on their next visit to Macao. When a guest is once received into one of these hospitable mansions he finds himself quite at home, in the enjoyment of the most agreeable society ; for it is a custom of the merchants of the East to extend to strangers of respectability a hospitality that is quite unreserved. Such, indeed, is the freedom of the guest that he has only to order whatever he may require and his demand is complied with at once. The master does not trouble himself about the matter, but 140 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. lie is, for the most part of the time, away ahout his business ; and the whole concern of the household devolves upon the major-domo, whose duty it is to satisfy every want. There is a very convenient official of these establishments, termed a comprador, whose vocation it is to pay all the bills accruing from the purchases and incidental expenses of the guests, who, however, of course, refund what has been paid. While enjoying the luxury of these oriental establishments, one, in fact, might fancy himself in a well-organized French hotel, as he has only to express a wish to have it gratified, were it not that he has nothing to pay in the former beyond the usual gratuities to servants, while in the latter he is mulcted roundly for every convenience. There is not much at present to interest the visitor at Macao, as it is but a ghost of its former self. There is almost a complete absence of trade or commerce. The harbor is deserted, and the sumptuous dwellings and storehouses of the old merchants are comparatively emjity, while the Portuguese who inhabit the place are but rarely seen, and seem listless and unoccupied. An occasional Parsee, in high crowned cap and snowy robe, a venerable merchant, and here and there a Jesuit priest, with his flock of youthful disciples, may be seen, but they are only as the decaying monuments of the past. At one time, however, the town of Macao was one of the most flourishing marts of the East. When the Portuguese obtained possession, in the latter part of the sixteenth century, they soon established it as the centre of a wide commerce with China and other oriental countries. Its origin is attributed to a few Portuguese merchants belonging to Lampa§ao, who were allowed to resort there and establish some temporary huts for shelter and the drying of damaged goods. Hue, the Chinese traveller, gives a different account ; he states that the Portuguese were allowed to settle by the Emperor, in return for the signal service of capturing a famous pirate who had long ravaged the coasts. From an humble beginning, the settlement gradually arose to an imposing jiosition as a commercial place, for which it was greatly indebted to the monopoly it enjoyed of eastern commerce. It has, however, declined, and is now a place of very inconsiderable importance and trade. The town is situated upon a peninsula at the southward of the island of Macao. It is sufficiently picturesque in appearance, built as it is upon the acclivities of the rising ground about the harbor, with its gay looking white houses, which overhang the terraces that bound the shore and look out upon the sea. The houses of the old merchants, though they now bear some appearance of neglect, yet attest, by the spaciousness of the apartments, and the luxuriousness of their appointments, the former opulence of the Portuguese traders. The pleasant walks about the circuit of the neighboring hills and the Praya invite the visitor to strengthen himself in cheerful exercise. The dull look of the place is somewhat relieved in the summer time, when the foreign residents of Canton and Hong Kong resort there to bathe in the waters of Bishop's Bay, and to recreate in the enjoyment of the healthful sea air of the place. The harbor is not suitable for large vessels, which anchor in Macao roads, several miles from the town. It is, however, though destitute of every appearance of commercial activity, always enlivened by the fleet of Tanka boats which pass, conveying passengers to and fro, between the land and the Canton and Hong Kong steamers. The Chinese damsels, in gay costume, as they scull their light craft upon the smooth and gently swelling surface of tlie bay, 2)rcsent a lively aspect, and as they ar^ looked upon in the distance, from the verandahs above the Praya, TANK A BOAT, ETC., MACAO. 141 which command a view of the hay, have a fairy-like appearance^ which a nearer approach serves^ however, to change into a more suhstantial and coarse reality. Tai.ku Coilt Hill- Clih.Lii; Won. an ninl CliiM, Mjicao. 142 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. The Cave of Camoens^ where the Portuguese poet is supposed to have written a portion of his Lusiad^ is a place of universal interest and resort at Macao. It is picturesquely situated upon the summit of a small hill, on the margin of the inner harbor. Large granite rocks are here gathered in a confused cluster, which form a natural cave^ from the entrance of which Camoens' Cave, Macao. there is a wide prospect of the surrounding country. The banians^ the pagoda, and other oriental trees unite their foliage and form a grove in which the rocky cave is embowered. Surrounding it are grounds cultivated with trees, creeping vines, and flowering shrubs, charm- ingly arranged by the borders of winding paths, and upon the sides of the hills. Artificial terraces, ingeniously disposed, invite the visitor to the enjoyment of the view or to rest beneath the shade. Above the cave rises a rotunda, from which there is an enchanting prospect, and a marble monument, with a bronze bust and an inscription, hero record the features, the genius, and virtue of Camoens, the poet. CAMOENS' CAVE. 143 Camoens' visit to Macao was during his banishment from Portugal^ in consequence of his pertinacious courtship of a hxdy of rank, whose parents did not affect an alliance with the poet, who, although of a respectable family, was poor, and looked upon as an uncertain adventurer. In 1551, he proceeded to Goa^ in India, where he again involved himself in trouble by writing Camoens' Cave, Macao — Rear View. his "Absurdities of India," and was banished to the Moluccas, and in the course of his exile he resorted frequently to Macao, which was a favorite residence of the poet. The cave was his chosen spot of retirement, where, in its "sweet retired solitude," he meditated his great work^ the Lusiad. Camoens returned to Portugal, but only to live in misery and die in an hospital. The interior of the island of Macao, which is exclusively cultivated by the Chinese, yields a variety of vegetable productions, with which the town is supplied. Tlie wliole population is about 20,000, and of these 13,000 belong to the peninsula and town, whereof more than one-half the inhabitants are Chinese, and in the interior of the island this race compose the whole. The 144 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. government of the town is in the hands of the Portuguese. The Portuguese have a college, churches and various educational, henevolent, and ecclesiastical institutions in the town, where the Chinese also have their peculiar establishments and a temple. On the evening of April 28th, the Mississippi was again under weigh, leaving the Saratoga at Macao to await the arrival of Dr. S. W. Williams, of Canton, who had been appointed interpreter to the expedition. The course was now directed for Shanghai. The navigation of the coast of China, from Hong Kong to the mouth of the Yang-tse-Keang, is, at most seasons, difficult and perplexing. The frequent fogs and irregular tides and currents make it very annoj'iug to those who are strangers to the navigation, when close in with the coast. Fortunately, however, vessels are always, when near the land, on anchoring ground, and although they are sometimes obliged to bring to, in situations exposed to winds from the sea, it is better to resort to the anchor than to drift blindly among groups of islands and reefs. If the weather be moderately clear, vessels may run from island to island, and thus navigate the coast with perfect safety and convenience, but the fogs which prevail at certain seasons scarcely allow of this advantage. During the passages of the Susquehanna and Mississippi from Hong Kong to Shanghai neither had a meridian observation of the sun. The entrance to the Yang-tse-Keang, which leads to the commercial city of Shanghai, is obstructed on either side by shoals, which make it dangerous for vessels not having pilots. On the north side is a shoal called the North Sand, extending some six leagues westward from the main land, and on the south side is a parallel shoal, called the South Sand, projecting nearly as far from the shore on that side. The outer extremities of these shoals are beyond sight of the main land. The channel between the two shoals may be estimated at about two miles in width, and there are no light-houses, boats, beacons, or buoys to indicate to strangers the entrance. A small islet called Gutzlaff island is the only indication, for the bearings of whicb, and other directions for entering the channel, the nautical reader is referred to the Appendix. The rise and fall in the Yang-tse-Keang averages about ten feet, and vessels are obliged to find their way haj)-hazard into the channel, or perchance run iij)on one of the sister sands. Numbers of vessels resorting to Shanghai are lost, and still nothing has been done to remedy the evil. The Commodore was convinced, on visiting this river with the Mississippi, that until proper landmarks and beacons are established to indicate the entrance, it must be an unfit resort for any but the smaller vessels of a squadron, and consequently, an unfit i^lace for a naval depot. The Susquehanna, the Plymouth, and the Supply, all grounded on going in, and the last remained thumping on the North Sand twenty-two hours, and was only saved from total loss by a providential change of wind. The Mississippi was carried, in the confusion of her pilot, out of the channel, but by good fortune did not stop, tliough she ran into nineteen feet water, one foot less than her draft, on the South Sand, but the power of the engines jjroved her salvation. The wealthy foreign merchants established at Shanghai, who are gathering a plentiful harvest from the increasing trade of the place, should contribute some of their thousands toward rendering the navigation less dangerous. It is but justice to say that a willingness has been expressed by some of these gentlemen to subscribe liberally toward the accomplishment of the desired object, and, in fact, a boat had been ordered to be built in the United States, for the purpose of towing vessels up and down the river, Shanghai is built upon the left bank of the river Wampon, a branch of the Yang-tse-Kiang. Near the mouth of the Wampon is the village Woosung, the station where the foreign merchants o YANG-TSE-KEANG — SHANGHAI. 145 formerly established their receiving ships, and the trading vessels their anchorage. Nothing can be less picturesque than the scenery of the banks of the Wampon in the approach to Shanghai. Monotonous flats of alluvial grounds stretch their wide expanse on either side of the tortuous river. The fertile fields, rich with an abundant harvest of rice and grain, are encouraging prospects to the eye of the agriculturist, but the poetical observer is sadly disap- pointed in a view which presents a dead level of landscape, without a mountain, a hill-side, or even a tree to relieve the monotony. In front of the city of Shanghai quays have been built out, and along them extend the store- houses and sumptuous residences of the foreign merchants, which have been constructed since the termination of the opium war with Great Britain. Here are to be found wide and well graded streets, beautiful gardens, and all the comforts and conveniences that are to be found in any part of the world. Two Grothic churches, one belonging to the English, and the other to the American Protestant Episcopal mission, show an encouraging success of missionary effort, and excite the hopes of the Christian, for the progress of his faith. American Consulate, and Port of Shanghai. The Commodore was a guest, while at Shanghai, ot the American firm of Russell & Co., in whose splendid establishment, as at Macao, every want was satisfied. So complete are the conveniences of these residences, and so perfect every appointment, that the stranger finds himself surrounded with all the necessaries and luxuries of his own home. A trifling incident will illustrate the effectiveness with whicli the most insignificant demands of tlie guest are complied with. The Commodore was asked if he liked soda water, to which polite request he ^9 .1 146 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. responded that the only mineral water he cared for was that from the Congress spring in Saratoga ; the next morning the servant entered his room with a hottle of it. During the stay of the ships at Shanghai there was a constant succession of dinners and halls, and the officers were entertained everywhere with the most generous hospitality. The native city is a great contrast to that part of the siihurhs inhahited hy the foreign residents, although the portion of the latter occupied hy the natives is miserahle enough. Shanghai, proper^ is enclosed within a wall, and has the appearance of most of the Chinese . cities. The place is quite large, and very populous. Its streets are narrow, like most of those of the native cities, not being much more than eight or ten feet in width, and are intersected hy dirty alleys, which lead to the rear of the small and contracted dwellings of the Chinese, who live in the midst of foul air and all kinds of filth. The filthiness of Shanghai gives no favorable idea of the domestic habits of the people ; a slight glance at the men and women usually met in the streets was quite convincing enough of their want of reverence for what the proverb says is " next to godliness." During the stay of the Commodore at Shanghai, the shops had been emptied of their contents and carried into places of safety, in expectation of an attack upon the city by the rebels, consequently, the bazaars had a dull look, and but few of the native fabrics could be seen. The domestic trade of the city has been immense for a long time, being carried on in all directions with the vast interior of China. A multitudinous population swarms in that part of the country which stretches back of Shanghai, and the commercial intercourse with the large cities of Nankin and others, with their millions of inhabitants, and incessant trading activity, was constant, until interrupted by the Chinese rebellion. The trade of Shanghai has been stated to be as large ts that of any part of the world, not excepting even London. The immediate neighborhood of Shanghai is highly cultivated, and fertile fields stretch in all directions as far as the eye can reach, rich with their harvests of cotton, rice, wheat, barley, beans and potatoes. The markets of the town are well supplied, and at moderate prices, with beef, mutton, poultry, game, fish and vegetables of all varieties. Among the different kinds of game, the pheasant, woodcock, and snipe abound, and of the fish, the shad is common during its season, of good size and flavor ; some, indeed, larger than are seen in the United States, though in taste inferior to those caught in our rivers. Fruit is scarce, and of inferior quality, as the Chinese pay but little attention to its cultivation ; some cherries, however, were tasted, which proved to be tolerably good, and it was said that the peaches were also good. All the varieties of Chinese manufactured articles can ordinarily be obtained at Shanghai, and especially a silk of famous fabric, woven at Su-Chau, a neighboring city. But the intestine disturbances prevailing deprived the Commodore of any but a hearsay knowledge of many of these articles, which, however, are said to be obtained, in pacific times, more easily at Shanghai than at Canton. The foreign commerce has greatly increased since the termination of the war witli Great Britain, and tlie general belief is entertained that Shanghai, with its superior advantages, will monopolize most of the foreign trade with China. The population of the place was estimated at two hundred and eiglity thousand, and the Chinese who composed it seemed to be of a better class than those at Canton and Hong Kong. Like all their countrymen, they arc indefatigable in labor and untiring in trading activity, for which they have, undoubtedly, a natural instinct. The Commodore, while at Shanghai, made an interesting return visit to the Taou-tai or VISIT OF THE COMMODORE TO THE TAOU-TAI, SHANGHAI. 147 governor and commaader of the city, who first called upon him at the American consulate, and afterward visited the ship. The Taou-tai has a lucrative, hut hy no means easy office. Among his other duties, he has to watch, especially, the interests and conduct of the foreign residents, and what with the cajirices of strangers, the sometimes inordinate claims of their representatives, and the arbitrary retxuirements of his imperial master, he must have hard work to keep up a fair balance between his duties to his government on the one hand and the foreigners on the other. This high ofiicial has also to sustain the responsibility of a secure transport of the taxes of the province, and to fulfil the by no means sinecure duty of protecting the commerce of Shanghai against the pirates who swarm the coasts. His highness makes his official visits with a pomp and circumstance suitable to his dignified station. The ringing sounds of gongs herald his approach, and he comes seated grandly in his chair of state attended by his suite of subordinate mandarins. The office, in common with the general practice of China, is bestowed ordinarily upon him who has earned one of the topmost of the nine colored buttons, which, worn above the official cap, serve, by their vari-colored grades, to distinguish the mandarins. As literary eminence is the passport to office, the Taou-tai is ordinarily well up in Chinese literature, and can quote whole passages of Confucius or Mencius with the utmost volubility. In the Commodore's visit to the Taou-tai he was accompanied by twenty of his officers and the American consul, who were all, with due regard to the importance of the occasion, dressed up in full uniform. The party, thus adorned, and duly seated in sedan chairs, were conveyed from the consular residence to the government house, situated in the centre of the city, within the walls. On arrival at the entrance, the Commodore and his suite were saluted with the usual salvo of three guns (the extent, with the Chinese, of honorable ammunition on such occasions) and the music of a band. The Taou-tai was at the threshold to meet his visitors, and as the Commodore alighted from his sedan chair his higlmess escorted him into the hall of audience, while the rest of the company followed in respectful sequence. The Commodore was placed, in accordance with Chinese ceremony, at the side of the Taou-tai, on a platform raised a little above the floor. On entering and departing from the government house, the party passed through an open apartment, adorned with a bold representation of a gigantic Chinese deity on the wall, and furnished with large wooden chairs, stuffed with red cloth cushions, which were ranged along the sides. A table standing in the apartment, and holding the vessel containing the pieces of bamboo which are thrown by the hand of the Chinese judge to the executioner, to indicate the number of strokes to be applied to the convicted criminal, showed the ordinary purposes of the chamber, which was that of a hall of justice. Refreshments, consisting of teas, liquors, (including champagne,) cake, and so forth, were handed round to the visitors in succession; and, after a stay of an hour, the commodore and Lis party returned in the same manner as they came. Entering again tlieir sedan chairs, and traversing the narrow streets of Shanghai in long procession, and jostling every one who obstructed the way, they finally reached the American consulate. While Commodore Perry was at Shanghai, the revolution, which is still in progress, had made great headway. Although new developments have taken place since, which have altered very much the position of aifairs, it may not be amiss to give the results of the Commodore's observations of a civil commotion, which naturally excited his deepest interest. He writes on 148 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. the spot, at the date of May, 1853: "The political condition of China at the present time is very unsettled; the whole empire seems to he in a state of agitation arguing some mighty revolution ; one-half of the country is in occupation of an insurgent force, which claims to represent the old Chinese, who were dispossessed a long time since hy the present ruling dynasty. At the head of the rebel force is a very sagacious man, who, from disappointment, or some imaginary wrong, growing out of his examination for literary honors, (so highly prized hy the Chinese,) became disgusted, and at once showed his disaffection, and finally raised the flag of open rebellion. At first he had only a few followers, but in the course of time multitudes flocked to his standard ; and now, after over-running a great many provinces, he is quietly in possession of the great city of Nanking. "This man denounces the j^revailing religion, and has caused to be destroyed numerous Buddhist temples. He professes a faith somewhat similar to that of the Mormons in America, and gives forth that he has constant communion with God, and has been acknowledged as his Son. His ignorant and lawless followers profess to believe in his pretended revelations, and with them he has acquired great power by his religious devices. He pretends to fraternize with Christians, and argues that all Christian nations, by reason of similar faith, should aid him in driving out of the empire the present usurping family, and putting upon the celestial throne a true son of heaven, a believer of the decalogue, and a scion of the old Chinese monarchs. He does not pretend to any claims himself to the imperial diadem; but it may be well imagined, from his professed dogmas of religion^ that when the time comes he will turn out to be the proposed great Celestial on Earth." In the state of agitation produced by these civil disturbances it was natural that the foreign merchants who had large interests at stake should be anxious about the security of their prop- erty ; accordingly, the American commercial houses established at Shanghai addressed a letter to the Hon. Humphrey Marshall, minister of the United States to China, in which they stated that the amount of their property, at a fair valuation, then at risk in the port of Shanghai, was $1,200,000, and that they considered it fairly entitled to protection, which the rumored with- drawal of the naval force would seem to deprive them of. Commodore Perry, regarding the interests of American citizens in China, and at the same time not forgetting the great purpose of his expedition, resolved to leave the Plymouth to protect his countrymen and their property, but not otherwise to interfere with his own mission or the affairs of China. The request of the American commissioner to have a vessel of war to convey him to the mouth of the Peiho, in order to secure a recognition on the part of the Chinese government of his ofiicial presence, was not complied with by the Commodore, who declined not only on the score of policy, but from the necessity of concentrating all the naval force he could on the expedition to Japan. The Mississippi had arrived at Shanghai on the 4th of May, and the interval between that date and the 17th of the same month, was chiefly employed in transferring the Commodore to the Susquehanna, which then became his flag-ship, and in taking in the usual supplies of coal and provisions for the voyage. "No less than jive toiis of Chinese " cash,"* to be dispensed in the Lew-Chew islands, was rather an unusual addition to the ship's stores. On Monday morning. May 16, 1853, the Mississippi moved down the river and was followed the next day by the Commodore in the Susquehanna, while the Plymouth was left behind, for • The " casli" is but a small sum. about the twelve-hundreth part of a dollar DEPARTURE FROM CHINA FOR LEW CHEW. 149 a sliort time, to await the course of events in the rebel camp, her commander having orders to follow as soon as he could do so consistently with the safety of American interests at Shanghai. The day of departure was unusually clear, and the cultivated banks of the river, with their orchards and fields of grain, never appeared more beautifully green. With the fine day, wliich gave a bright, cheerful aspect to every object, the inspiriting music of the band, which struck up a succession of lively airs, the crowds of spectators on the shore, and the natural enthusiasm of all on the prospect of carrying out the enterprise which was the great object of the expedition, the departure from Shanghai was in a high degree animating. The Mississippi had preceded, as we have seen, the Susquehanna, to which the Commodore had now transferred his flag, and joined the Supply, which, after having grounded on the North Sand, succeeded fortunately in getting off without damage. The squadron, which now prepared to sail for Lew Chew, was composed of the Susquehanna, the Mississippi, the Supply, and the Caprice, which was discovered standing in, as the other ships were standing out, and was ordered to follow. The Plymouth was, as has just been stated, left at Shanghai, as a guard of American property and interests, and the Saratoga remained at Macao, to await the arrival of Dr. Williams, the interpreter. These vessels were expected to follow, and join the rendezvous at Lew Chew. The Susquehanna, on reaching the mouth of the Tang-tse-Kiang, came to anchor and remained there for three days. The Mississippi and Supply took up their positions on either side. The junk belonging to Kussell & Co., the American merchants, which had been hired to carry a cargo of coal to the mouth of the river to be put on board the Mississippi, was, while under the charge of its own commander and officers, lost on the North Sand. From the anchorage of the Mississippi, Gutzlaff's island could be seen some six miles distant, and beyond it stretched the long uneven outline of Buggies' islands. The weather was alternately clear and rainy, and when the sun did not shine the scene was particularly gloomy and oppressive to the spirits. The muddy waters of the Yang-tse-Kiang, looking more muddy still in the yellow light of a foggy atmosphere, and the dull constraint of a tedious anchorage, presented a sad prospect to the eye, and a wearisome sensation to the feelings, which made all anxious for departure. The naturalists had an opportunity of gratifying their tastes in observing a flock of small birds from the land, which hovered in and about the ship. Mr. Heine, the artist, succeeded in obtaining several specimens, which had somewhat the appearance of the starling. He also caught a graceful dove, of a light brownish color. A beautiful king-fisher was brought on board, which had been caught by some of the sailors of the Mississippi. Its plumage was exceedingly rich and charmingly variegated ; its long bill was of a bright red ; its wings were black ; its body was of a rich blue color, and its flossy neck was of a whitish cream tint. The Susquehanna got under way at one o'clock on the 23d of May, followed by the Mississippi with the Supply in tow, all bound for Napha, the principal port of the Great Lew Chew island. In the course of the evening, about six o'clock, the low range of islands known as the Saddles, and inhabited by a sparse population of fishermen, was passed, the ships directing their course to the north of them, where there is an open channel free from shoals. The night was clear, with a full moon, and the weather was mild and agreeable. The Susquehanna moved on at a moderate rate, keeping about a mile in advance of the Mississippi, ■while the Caprice, gently fanned by the southwestern monsoon, managed to keep also in sight, though further in the distance, until she was lost in the darkness of the niglit. 150 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. It was found that the Mississippi, with the aid of topsails, although she had the Supply in tow, rapidly gained upon the Susquehanna ; accordingly a foretopsail was set upon the latter, the good effect of which was soon shown, by "her leaving her competitor so far astern that it was necessary to wait until the Mississippi could come up again. The Susquehanna's engines were only worked at half speed with the consumption, to which she was restricted, of one ton of coal per hour, hut notwithstanding, with the aid of the regular breeze of the monsoon, she succeeded in making seven and a lialf knots an hour. As the course was southerly, the weather became every moment warmer, and the sea was as smooth as a lake. During the passage the crew were regularly called to quarters and exercised in all the usual manoeuvres necessary for preparation for action, and on the morning of the 25th of May, after quarters, general orders 11 and 12 were read ; the former related to the discipline to be observed on board ship during the visit to the Lew Chew Islands, and the latter enjoined the necessity of keeping uj) the most friendly relations with the Japanese inhabitants wherever found, and also stated that the expedition was ordered to use all possible friendly means, and not to resort to force but from the sternest necessity. In the evening the signal of land in sight was made by the Mississippi, and subsequently was reported by the man at the fore-topmast head of the Susquehanna. During the night the steamers were kept at slow speed, standing off and on ; the Supply had been previously cast off from the Mississippi, and left to make her own way under sail. At half-past seven o'clock in the morning of May 26th the land was again made at a distance of nearly twenty miles, and as the steamers moved on, it was distinctly descried as a long island elevated gradually from the sea to a cliff at its northern extremity, and with a steep headland at the south. Beyond the island, which was passed, and its green foliage distinctly seen, was other land to which the Susquehanna was now headed, followed closely by the Mississippi, while the Supply was quite out of sight. Kapha was reached in the evening, and entered in company with the Saratoga, from Macao, which ship the steamers had fallen in with off the harbor. It is due to Lieutenant Bent, an officer on board the Mississippi, to acknowledge that the Commodore availed himself of that gentleman's former experiences in a visit in the Preble to pilot the ships as they entered Napha. «.flOSEltTS.SC * « _ s ^ 4 5s ^ I j3 ? ■^ .5 '. A I -!>*- V 1 ■> •s ■3 "^i !J 3 \ a ./ HI -- / J ISLANDS OF LEW CHEW. 151 CHAPTER VII. NUMBER AND POSITION OF ISLANDS OF LEW CHEW. — THEIR 8DPF0SED POLITICAL RELATIONS TO JAPAN AND CHINA. — DESCRIP- TION OF THE ISLAND OF GREAT LEW CHEW, AS SEEN ON THE FIRST APPROACH TO IT, VISIT OF OFFICIALS TO THE SUSQUEHANNA. VISIT OP DR. BETTELHEIM. REFUSAL OF PRESENTS, AND CONSEQUENT MORTIFICATION OP THE LEW CHEWANS. EXPLORATION OF THE ISLAND RESOLVED ON BY THE COMMODORE. DAGUERREOTTPING ON SHORE. CORAL INSECT AND ITS FORMATIONS. SECOND VISIT OF THE AUTHORITIES OF LEW CHEW. REGENT OF THE ISLAND RECEIVED BY THE COMMODORE. FRIENDLY NATURE OF THE INTERVIEW. SURPRISE OF THE LEW CHEWANS AT SIGHT OF THE STEAM ENGINE. COMMODORE ANNOUNCES TO THEM HIS INTENTION OF RETURNING THE VISIT AT THE PALACE OP 9HTI. THEIR EVIDENT EMBARRASSMENT THEREAT. LEAVE TO GO ON SHORE. DESCRIPTION OF NAPHA AND ITS VICINITY, BY ONE OF THE OFFICERS. EXPLORING PARTY SETS OUT, PLACED UNDER THE COMMAND OP THE CHAPLAIN, MR. JONES. MR. BAYARD TAYLOR ATTACHED TO IT, WITH ORDERS TO TAKE NOTES AND FURNISH A DETAILED REPORT OF THE JOURNEY. NEGOTIATIONS WITH THE LEW CHEW AUTHORITIES TO OBTAIN A HOUSE ON SHORE. THEIR MANIFEST OPPOSITION. COMMODORE PERSISTS AND SUCCEEDS. OFFICERS, WHEN ON SHORE, CONTINUALLY WATCHED BY SPIES. CAPTAIN BASIL HALl's ACCOUNT OF THE LEW CHEWANS SOMEWHAT EXAGGERATED. IMPRESSIONS MADE ON THE OFFICERS AS TO THE CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES. HYDROGRAPHIC SURVEYS. BOAT EXERCISE OF THE CREWS, AND DRILLING ON LAND OF THE MARINES. ^g; N Thursday, the 2r)th of May, the sqiiadron found ^^Wss^^^ itself quietly anchored in the harbor of Napha, the principal j)ort of the Great Lew Chew island, and ai^ the first jDoint where the exi^edition touched on Japanese territory, if Lew Chew (or, as the natives call it, Doo Choo) be indeed a dependency of Japan. The group of islands known as the Lieou Kieou, or Lew Chew, is said to be in number thirty-six, at considerable distances from each other, and lying between the islands of Kioosioo and Formosa; they are between 24° 10' and 28° 40' north latitude and 127° and 129° east longi- tude from Greenwich. It is a question yet discussed to what power Lew Chew belongs. By some it is said to be a dependency of the Prince of Satziima, of Japan; others suppose it to belong to Cliina. The probabilities, however, are all on the side of the dependence, more or less absolute, of Lew Chew on Japan, and probably, also^, of some qualified subordination to China, as they undoubt- edly send tribute to that country. Language, customs, laws, dress, virtues, vices, and com- mercial intercourse, all are corroborative of such an opinion. But of this more will be said hereafter. 152 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. The Great Lew Chew was seen from the ships, as they approached, at the distance of more than twenty miles, and, when near enough to render objects distinguishable, presented a very inviting appearance. It is thus graphically described by the pen of one of the officers of the expedition: * "The shores of the island were green and beautiful from the water, diversified with groves and fields of the freshest verdure. The rain had brightened the colors of the landscape^ which recalled to my mind the richest English scenery. The swelling hills, which rose immediately from the water's edge, increased in height towards the centre of the island, and were picturesquely broken by abrupt rocks and crags, which, rising here and there, gave evidence of volcanic action. Woods^ apparently of cedar or pine, ran along the crests of the hills, while their slopes were covered with gardens and fields of grain. To the northward, the hills were higher, and the coast jutted out in two projecting headlands, showing that there were deep bays or indentations between." "By three o'clock we were so near that the town of Napha was distinctly visible, at the bottom of the bay. The cape, called Abbey Point, projected in front of it, covered with foliage, and the extremity crowned with an isolated group of crags, whose mossy turrets and buttresses evidently suggested the name of the point. The hills were dotted in various jjlaces with white specks, which I at first took to be dwellings, but which were tombs of limestone rock."t As the ships entered, the British ensign was seen suddenly to rise on a flag-stafi", placed near a house, which was perched on a curious overhanging point of rock, north of the town ; this house was the residence of the missionary, Mr. Bettelheim, a convert from Judaism, who married in England, and had, for some five or six years, been resident on the island, under the auspices of an association of pious English gentlemen, officers of the British navy^ very much, however, against the inclinations of the Lew Chewans. On passing Abbey Point, the mouth of the inner harbor became visible, and within it was a number of large Japanese junks, riding at * The well known traveller, Bayard Taylor, who joined the Susquehanna in China. The circumstances under which this gentleman joined the expedition are thus detailed by the Commodore : "On my arrival at Shanghai I found there Mr. Bayard Taylor, who had a letter of introduction to me from an esteemed friend in New York. He had been a long time, as I understood, exceedingly anxious to join the squadron, that he might visit Japan, which he could reach in no other way. " On presenting the letter referred to, he at once made a request to accompany me, but to tliis application I strongly objected, intimating to him the determination I had made at the commencement of the cruise to admit no civilians, and explaining how the few who were in the squadron had, by signing the shipping articles, subjected themselves to all the restraints and penalties of naval law; that there were no suitable accommodations for him, and that, should he join the expedition, he would be obliged to suffer, with the other civilians, many discomforts and privations, and would moreover be restricted, under a general order of the Navy Department, from communicating any information to the public prints, or privately to his friends; that all the notes or general observations made by him during the cruise would belong to the government, and therefore must be deposited with me. Notwithstanding this, Iiowever, with a full knowledge of all the difficulties and inconveniences which would attend his joining the squadron, he still urged his application. "Being thus importuned, and withal very favorably impressed with his gentlemanlike and unassuming manners, I at last reluctantly consented, and he joined the mess of Messrs. Heine and Brown, on board the Susquehanna. During the short time he remained in the squadron he gained the respect and esteem of all, and, by his habits of observation, aided by his ready pen, became quite useful in preparing notes descriptive of various incidents that transpired during our first brief visit to Japan and the islands. It was the only service he could render, and it was afforded cheerfully. These notes have been used in the preparation of my report, and due credit has, I trust, been given to him. "Some of the incidents illustrative of the events mentioned in my official communications were, u-ilh my cnnseni, written out by Mr. Taylor, and sent home by him for publication in the United States. Tliese he has used in his late work. His original journals were honorably deposited in my hands. His reports, like those of every other individual detailed fur tlie performance of a special duty, were, of course, delivered to me, and became part of the official records of the expedition." f Extracted from the manuscript journal of Mr. Taylor, which, with those of other officers, pursuant to the orders of the Hon. Secretary, was placed in the hands of the Coinmodure. EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW RESOLVED ON. 153 anchor. Two persons were seen watching the movements of the squadron from the foot of the flagstaff; and, through a telescoiae, numhers coukl be seen leaving the town under white umbrellas. The ships had not been at anchor two hours, before, notwithstanding the rain, a boat came off with two officials. On reaching the deck, tliey made many profound salutations, and presented a folded red card of Japanese paper, about a yard long. The jirincipal personage wore a loose salmon-colored robe of very fine grass cloth, while the dress of the other was of similar fashion, but of a blue color. On their heads were oblong caps of bright yellow; they liad blue sashes tied around their waists, and white sandals ujion their feet. Their beards were long and black, though thin, and their ages were, seemingly, some thirty-five or forty years. Tliey had the Japanese cast of countenance, and in complexion were a dusky olive. Who they were, or what the purpose of their visit, was not immediately known, as there happened to be no interpreter, at tlie time of their visit, on board the Susquelianna, to which ship they came ; but one of the Commodore's Chinese servants was summoned, who understood the characters on tlieir card sufficiently to explain that tlie visit was merely a cliin-chin, or complimentary salutation on arrival. The Commodore, however, acting on his previously determined plan, declined seeing them, or receiving any other than one of the principal dignitaries of the island; and they accordingly returned to the shore. They had, no doubt, been sent to make observations, and, without committal, to ascertain what they could of the strangers, that the policy and treatment of the authorities of the island might be shaped according to circumstances. Scarcely had they gone before Dr. Bettelheim came on board hi a native boat; and such were the relations in which he stood to the islanders that he hailed the arrival of the squadron with delight, and manifested no little excitement of manner. He was conducted to the Commodore's cabin, where he remained for two or three hours ; and in the course of the interview it appeared that he had never heard even of the intended American expedition ; that a year and a half had elapsed since any foreign vessel had been at Napha, and that he was almost beside himself with joy. Grog and biscuit were given to his boatmen, and in their exhilaration, when they started for the shore, they contrived to carry the missionary some three miles up the coast. The next day, the 2'7th, the shores looked, if possible, more brilliantly green and beautiful than ever, and all on board were struck with the loveliness of their appearance. About seven o'clock, four boats came off, bringing presents for the ship; in one of these were the two visitors of the day before, wlio brought another card, seemingly a list of the presents. He of the sal- mon-colored robe had given his name, on his first visit, as Whang-clia-ching ; jDrobably the Lew Chew pronunciation of Whang-ta-zliin, or "his excellency, Whang." The presents brought consisted of a bullock, several l>igs, a white goat, some fowls, vegetables, and eggs. These were peremptorily refused, nor were those who brought them permitted to come on board. After waiting a short time, tliey returned to the town, with an evident expression of anxiety and uneasiness on their countenances. At this time it was observed in the squadron that several of the junks put out from the inner harbor and sailed to the northward, as it was conjectured, for Japan. Some of them passed quite near to the ships, to gratify their curiosity by a closer inspection of such large vessels. The junks were somewhat like those of the Chinese, and, like them, had two great eyes inserted in the bows, as if to see the way. Undoubtedly, the presence of the squadron had created great alarm among the junks; for no force, half as large, had ever 20 J 154 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. been seen at Naplia before, and probably some of the junks bad been dispatched to Japan witb the news of the squadron's appearance at Lew Chew. A boat was sent off for Dr. Bettelheim, and he, with the Eev. Mr. Jones, chaphiin of the Mississippi, and Mr. Wells Williams, the interpreter, breakfasted with the Commodore. An exploration of the island was resolved on by the chief. It was to consist of three parties, two by sea, and one into the interior. The former were to survey, respectively, the eastern and western coasts ; the latter to make a thorough examination of the interior, and to collect speci- mens of its animals, minerals, and vegetables. The Commodore also resolved to procure a house on shore, and gave notice to Mr. Brown, the artist in charge of tlie daguerreotype apparatus, that he must prepare his materials, occupy the building, and commence the practice of his art. On the 27th, the Commodore gave permission to the masters' mates to take the gig and pull about in the harbor, with a prohibition, however, of landing or communicating with the natives. Mr. Bayard Taylor was of the party, and we prefer to give our narrative in his own words, per- fectly satisfied that we shall thus most gratify the reader.* "The crew were Chinamen, wholly ignorant of the use of oars, and our trip would have been of little avail, had not the sea been perfectly calm. With a little trouble we succeeded in making them keep stroke, and made for the coral reef which separates the northern from the oar-chan- nel. The tide was nearly out, and the water was very shoal on all the approaches to the reef. We found, however, a narrow channel, winding between the groves of mimic foliage, and landed on the spongy rock, which rose about a foot above the water. Here the little pools which seamed the surface were alive with crabs, snails, star-fish, sea-prickles, and numbers of small fish of the intensest blue color. We found several handsome shells clinging to the coral, but all our efforts to secure one of the fish failed. The tide was ebbing so fast that we were obliged to return for fear of grounding the boat. We hung for some time over the coral banks, enraptured with the beautiful forms and colors exhibited by this wonderful vegetation of the sea. The coral grew in rounded banks, with clear, deep spaces of water between, resembling, in miniature, ranges of hills covered with autumnal forests. The loveliest tints of blue, violet, pale green, yellow, and white gleamed through the waves, and all the varied forms of vegetable life were grouped together, along the edges of cliffs and precipices, hanging over the chasms worn by currents below. Through those paths, and between the stems of the coral groves, the blue fish shot hither and thither, like arrows of the purest lapis-lazuli ; and others of a dazzling emerald color, with tails and fins tipped with gold, eluded our chase like the green bird in the Arabian story. Far down below, in the dusky depth of the waters, we saw, now and then, some large brown fish, hovering stealthily about the entrances to the coral groves, as if lying in wait for their bright little inhabitants. The water was so clear that the eye was deceived as to its depth, and we seemed, now to rest on the branching tops of some climbing forest, now to hang suspended as in mid-air, between the crests of two opposing ones. Of all the Avonders of the sea which have furnished food for poetry and fable this was assuredly the most beautiful." "We succeeded in obtaining a number of fine specimens of coral. The tips of the branches were soft and glutinous, and the odor exhaling from them was exceedingly offensive." *It is due to Mr. Taylor here to state that we draw the principal part of the story of the first visit to Lew Chew from his journal, and are glad often to adopt liis language, as we can frame none better. Commodore Ferry lias desired that we sliould do so. His own journal is less full in some particulars of this part of the voyage, because he relied on Mr. Taylor's, (winch he knew would be accurate and careful,) to amplify topics on which he made but brief notes. The Commodore has particularly directed this statement to be made that justice may bo done to Mr. Taylor for the services he rendered. ^l/t^^S^--<r... .1 t/ / w y CHIEF MAGISTR^TF d'' NAl'HA Lew Clu'''- VISIT OF THE LEW CHEW DIGNITARIES ON BOARD. 155 On the 30th, it was rumored on board that some of the principal authorities on shore intended on that day to visit the Susquehannah. Mr. Williams, the interpreter, came on board and took up permanently his qiiarters in the ship, and a boat was dispatched for Dr. Bettelheim, to be present on the occasion. On the preceding day, Lieutenant Contee and Mr. Williams went on shore to pay a visit to the then supposed governor of Napha, since asertained to be the mayor. They were received in a very polite and friendly manner ; though the mayor expressed his deep sense of mortifica- tion that his presents had been refused. Lieutenant Contee explained that it was the uniform practice of our government not to accept such presents for her ships, and tliat (in consequence of our custom) the offering of them not unfrequently subjected the commander and officers to mortification, as their refusal seemed like an ungrateful return for ofiered courtesy ; and that in this case no disrespect was intended. About one o'clock, a very ordinary native barge, containing the Lew Chew dignitaries, came alongside. The marines were in uniform, and every preparation had been made on board to show them respect and produce impressive effect. One of the inferior officers came first up the gangway with the card of his superior, which Mr. Williams, the interjireter, received and read; the officer then returned, and the regent of the kingdom of Lew Chew, a venerable old man, in a few minutes appeared, supported by two of his officers. Captains Buchanan and Adams received him at the gangway, and were saluted by the regent after the fashion of his country. His hands were joined upon his breast, wliile his body and knees were bent very profoundly, and his head was slightly turned away from the person he addressed. The prince, it was said, was a lad of eleven years old, and was represented to be ill. The old gentleman acted as regent for him. Six or eight other officers and some dozen subordinates followed tlie regent to the deck. A salute of three guns was then fired, which so startled some of the Lew Chew officers that they dropped upon their knees. One of the most striking features in tlie visitors was their general imperturbable gravity. It VFas indeed plain that they had intense curiosity, not unmingled with considerable alarm ; but they were careful to preserve the most dignified demeanor. They were conducted to the captain's cabin, and thence shown over the ship. They observed every thing with great gravity; but when they reached the ponderous engine, their assumed indifierence was fairly overcome, and it was evident that they were conscious of having encountered in it something very far beyond their comprehension. They were much quicker of perception, however, than the Chinese, as well as more agreeable in features, and much more neat and tidy in apparel. Up to this time they had not seen the Commodore. He had remained secluded in solitary dignity, in his own cabin. It was not meet that he should be made too common to the eyes of the vulgar. All this, of course, was mere matter of policy for the time being, as the Commodore was no very unusual sight to the officers anl men of the squadron. The visitors were, however, informed that they were now to be conducted into his presence, and were accordingly taken to his cabin. Just as the regent reached the head of the steps the band struck up a lively air ; but the dignified old man passed on without even casting an eye on the musicians. To him it was doubtless a solemn occasion. The Commodore received and entertained his guests most handsomely, and during the interview of an hour and a half between himself and the regent, assurances of amity and good will were exchanged between the parties. On the retirement of the regent he was escorted with great respect to the ship's side, and on his departure received honors similar to those that had been tendered on his arrival. 156 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Among otlier matters that occurred at the meetins; between the regent and the Commodore, the latter informed his guest that he should do himself the honor to return his visit, (d the jMlace, in the city of Sheudi or Shui, on the following Monday week, (June 6th.) This informa- tion caused some consultation and discussion between the regent and his counsellors ; but the Commodore put an end to it by stating that he had fully made a determination to go to the palace on that day, and should surely execute it. He further added that he should expect such a reception as became his rank and position as commander of the squadron and diplomatic repre- sentative of the United States in those regions ; and with a distinct understandings if not acqui- escence, on the part of the regent, to this effect, he took his departure. One result of the visit was very agreeable to the officers, for permission was immediately given them to go on shore, accompanied with a request that they would in no case intrude them- selves where their presence might seem to be disagreeable to the natives. They very soon availed themselves of the privilege, and a party (of which Mr. Taylor was one) landed at the foot of the rock upon which Dr. Bettelheim had erected his flagstaif. They found the shore to be coral rock covered with a dense and luxurious vegetation ; and about the distance of twenty yards from flood tide mark, the gardens of the natives commenced, divided from each other by coral walls and bristling hedges of yucca and cactus. Mr. Taylor thus describes this his first landing on Lew Chew : "Several groups of Lew Chewans watched our landing, but slowly retired as we approached them. The more respectable, distinguished by the silver pins in their hair, made to us profound salutations. The lower classes wore a single garment of brown cotton or grass-cloth, and the children were entirely naked. Even in the humblest dwellings there was an air of great neatness and order. Most of them were enclosed within high coral walls, in the midst of a small plot of garden land, some of which contained thriving patches of tobacco, maize, and sweet potatoes. " Threading the winding lanes of the suburb for a short distance, we came into the broad paved road which leads from Napha to Sheudi. It is an admirable thoroughfare, almost equal to the macadamized roads of England. The walls on either hand of coral rock are jointed together with great precision. No mortar is used in their construction, but the stones are so well fitted, (very much in the manner of the cyclopean walls of Italy,) that the whole appears, at a little distance, to be one mass. We here came upon parties from the Mississippi and Saratoga. The natives collected in crowds to see us pass, falling back as we approached, and closing behind us. They were under the authority of several persons, who had evidently received a special appoint- ment to watch us. Among them were many fine, venerable figures — -old men with flowing beards and aspects of great dignity and serenity ; but no sooner were any of these addressed than they retreated with great haste. The houses were all closed, and not a female was to be seen. The roofs were of red tiles, of excellent manufacture, and this, with the dark-green foliage of the trees which studded the city, the walls topped with cactus, and the occasional appearance of a palm or banana, reminded me of the towns in Sicily. "As we entered the thickly inhabited portion of Napha, the road passed over the foot of a low hill, by regularly graded steps, and then descended to the inner harbor, where the Japanese junks lay at anchor. From this harbor a creek, or estuary, almost dry at low water, extends eastward into the island. The market-place is in this portion of the town. It was deserted, like the streets, except by the inhabitants of two or three large tents, which were closed, except a narrow aperture. On our asking (by signs) for water, the people went to these tents and Co to ■ /-;:. j^i«»^?-^>^:— \^ „:_!.., — _r ■:- — APPEARANCE OF NAPHA. 157 procured some in a square wooden ladle, exactly similar to those used by the Turcomans, in Asia Minor. I did not go down to look at the Japanese junks, but, with some others, followed the course of the creek. Two of the police officers — as we took them to be — stuck to us, and when- ever we paused motioned to us to take the road which would have led us back to the beach. •>t:«SA'5NSi>S»" Lew Cliew Peasant. For this very reason I was desirous of proceeding further. All of the town which we had seen was completely clo.sed, the shops .shut, and the stalls of vendors of small wares, in the streets, deserted with such haste, in some instances, that the articles remained exposed. We walked for about half a mile up the creek, and finally reached another road which appeared to be one of the principal thoroughfares. The appearance of the interior of the island was exceedingly beautiful. The land rose in bold hills, crowned witli groves, of a variety of pine which was new to me, resembling the cedar of Lebanon in its physiognomy. The sides of the hills were covered with fields of brilliant green, spotted, here and there, by the white-washed sepidchres of former gene- 158 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. rations. In the vegetation there was a mixture of the growths of tropical and temperate climates, and in no part of the world have I seen a greater richness or variety. A stone bridge, of rough hut substantial workmanship, crosses the creek near its head. I noticed several of tlie natives riding over it into the country, on the Lew Chew ponies — shaggy, little animals, pro- bably descended from the Chinese stock. "We strolled into a temple, from the walls of which several persons, probably females, had been watching us. They disappeared with great rapidity as we entered the door. The court- yard of the temple was shaded with fine trees, but we discovered nothing of interest except two long, narrow boats, of the kind called 'centipede' at Hong Kong, designed for public festivals. While we sat down upon them to rest, quite a crowd of natives gathered about lis, and soon became familiar, though respectful in their demeanour. They were very neatly dressed in grass- cloth robes of a blue or salmon color, and (perhaps by contrast with the filthy Chinese) seemed to me the cleanest persons I had ever seen. The street vendors had not had time to get out of our way, and they sat beside their piles of coarse cheese-cakes. There were some women among them, but they were all old and hideously ugly. The costume of the female does not difi'er from that of the males, but they are distinguished by having a single instead of a double hair-pin." On the 30th of May, the party ordered to explore the interior of the island, and its eastern coast, set out for the performance of that duty. It consisted of twelve persons — four officers, four of the crew, and four Chinese coolies. From the Susquehanna were sent Mr. Taylor and Mr. Heine; and from the Mississippi the Kev. Mr. Jones, chaplain, and Dr. Lynah, assistant surgeon. The command of the expedition was given to Mr. Jones, who was directed particularly to observe the geology of the island ; as^ if it contained coal, it was a most imi^ortant character- istic. Mr. Taylor was ordered to take notes, and write out a detailed account of the journey. It was supposed the duty would occupy five or six days, and accordingly the expedition was furnished with provisions for that period, and with a tent. The men were armed with cutlasses and carbin«B, and ten rounds of ball cartridges each. It was not, however, supposed that there would he need of a resort to force on any occasion; still, it was deemed prudent to let the natives see the power of the party to defend itself; and beside^ guns and aniunition were required for the purpose of procuring birds and animals. On this day, also, the Commodore sent two of the officers of the squadron ashore, with the interpreter, to make arrangements with the authorities for procuring a house. On landing, they proceeded to a building which seemed to be what we should call, in the United States, a "town hall." It was the place, in the village of Tumai, where common strangers were received, and contained some thirty mats on the floor for sleeping ; waiters were also in attendance with tea and pipes. The purposes to which the building is applied seemed, however, to be various. Tlie literati meet there to converse and interchange opinions ; and any one of them may sjiend the night there upon any unoccupied mat. Our officers, on reaching this buildings sent for one of the principal men, who, after an hour's delay, made his appearance, and was most profound in his obeisance. Tea and pipes (the never failing preliminary) having been disposed of, the gen- tlemen made known their business to the Japanese ofiicial. He promptly declared that it would be utterly impossible for the Americans to occupy a house on shore. But, as Captain Hall, of the British navy, had, after much delay, at last obtained a house on shore, and our officers knew it, they reminded the Lew Chewans of the fact, and simply told him that they must have a house. He was very ingenious in arguments to show that the difiiculties in the way were insurmountable. NAPHA OFFICIAL DEVICES. 159 He was then asked if some two or tliree of the Americans might not sleep in the house for that night, and rejilied that no American must sleep in a house on shore. Ujion being pressed furtlier he seemed to become somewliat impatient, and, rising from his seat, he crossed over to wliere the officers sat, and dispensing with the aid of the interpreter, (through whom all communications had thus far been made,) to the surprise of our gentlemen, said: " Gentlemen, Doo Choo man very small, American man not very small. I have read of America in books of Washington — very good man, very good. Doo Choo good friend American. Doo Choo man give America all provision he wants. American no can have house on shore." These were nearly his exact words ; and the officers concluded that he had probably learned from Dr. Bettelheim what he knew of the English language. When they insisted that two or three of their company should stay in the house, at least for the night, he begged permission to go and confer with the mayor of Napha. He was gone for some time, and probably went three miles beyond Napha, to the palace of Shui^ to confer with the regent. "Well," (said one of the officers, on his return,) "we can sleep here to night?" — with a polite bow and marked emphasis, he replied "you cannot." But our officers had been ordej-ed to procure a house, and resolved to obey; so they left one of their number with the inter- preter to sleep there, unless they should be sent for by the Commodore, while they returned to the flag-ship to report what they had done. The officer and interpreter occupied two of the mats that night, and the islanders slept on the rest. There was no forcible taking possession of a building, as some have represented. Two meQ slept in the town-house for one night, surrounded by the natives, and this was all that was exacted or taken. The nest day the Commodore sent a sick officer_, with his servant, to the place, and those who slept there on the previous night came on board. * • We have before us an original note from the regent of Lew Chew, addressed to the Commodore, with a translation of the same, made by Mr. Williams. We insert the latter as affording a specimen of the Lew Chew epistolary style, premising that to represent themselves as very poor and obscure, and indeed unworthy almost of notice, was the uniform practice of the officials of the island, in all their communications witli our officers. It seems to be part of their settled policy ; for we find the same humble and depreciatory representations of tliemselves pervading their letters to the British officers, on the visit of the Bishop of Victoria. The communication below relates to the two subjects of the Commodore's visit to the palace at Sliui, and granting a house for the use of the squadron on shore; both of which events they strove hard, by various artifices, to prevent. A prepared petition. Shang Ta-mu, regent of Lew Chew, &c., &c., hereby urgently petitions upon important matters. On the 21st day of the present month (this, of course, is a translation of their mode of expressing time into ours) I received your excellency's verbal orders that on the 30th day of the present month, at 10 o'clock, you had concluded to come to the capital to return your respects. Also, on the 2Gth instant, Ching Changlieh, the mayor of Napha, received your excellency's communi- cation saying, that on the 30th instant, at 10 o'clock, it was decided to go up to Shui, the capital, to return the visit of the regent at the palace, and wished this to be distinctly stated in the proper way. Now, it is plain to all that the capital and towns of this little country are quite different from the provincial capitals of China ; here there is only a palace for the king, and no halls, official residences, markets, or sliops ; and, up to this time, no envoy from a foreign country has ever entered into the palace. In February, of last year, an English general came here, bearing a public letter, and was strenuous to enter tlie palace, there to deliver it; the high officers repeatedly requested that it might be given them elsewhere, but he refused, and forced himself into the palace. At that time, from the young prince and queen dowao-er down to the lowest officers and people, all were alarmed and fearful, hardly keeping soul and body together ; and tlie queen dowao-er has been dangerously sick even to this day, the physicians giving her broths and medicines for her alarming ailments which are not yet removed. All the officers in the country are really troubled and grieved on this account ; and having heard that the ruler of your country is endued with great kindness and vast compassion, and highly prizes humanity and benevolence, they urgently beg of your excellency, that respectfully embodying the humanity and benevolence of your sovereign, and his great love for men, you will take the case of the queen dowager, and her severe indisposition, into your favorable consideration, and cease from going into the palace to return thanks. If you deem it necessary to make this compliment, please go to the residence of the prince, there to make your respects in person. Respecting the matter of renting a house for residing, it has been stated by the mayor of Napha that, on the 24th instant, he had clearly shown forth the circumstances ; and, on the 26th, had received your excellency's reply, in which it was remarked — "that, whenever the officers and men from the ships were on shore, rambling about, they had no place of resort, and that, as there were no inns in the country, if they were overtaken by rain or had weather, 160 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. There was evident opposition on tte part of the authorities, at first, to visits on shore from the ships. This was expected, for the narratives of all who had visited the island had prepared the squadron for this. Notwithstanding, however, our officers did go on shore and wander over the town of Kapha and its suburbs, objects of no little interest and curiosity to the natives, who followed them in crowds, and were very polite, bowing low to them as they passed. But, despite all this courtesy, our ofiicers were quite sensible that the eyes of spies were upon them continually, and that every movement was watched. The women and children were taught by these oflicials to run away, as if affrighted, on the approach of the Americans, and, in short, a polite suspicion characterized the intercourse on the part of the Lew Chewans. The sick ofiicer, however, on shore at Tumai, seemed to be on the best possible terms with the natives, and they certainly were kind. The inhabitants appear to be naturally not unamiable, but the experience of our ofiicers does not altogether sustain the glowing accounts of the simplicity, friendliness and contentment of the people. Either Captain Basil Hall was mistaken, or the national traits have changed since the time of his visit. He represents them as without arms, ignorant even of money, docile, tractable and honest, scrupulously obedient to their rulers and their laws, and, in fact, as loving one another too well wilfullj' to harm or wrong each other. Many of the ofiicers of the squadron went to the island, exjjecting to find these beautiful traits of character ; but gra- dually and painfully undeceived in many particulars, they were constrained to acknowledge that human nature in Lew Chew was very much the same as it is elsewhere. The system of government, of which secret espionage forms a distinguishing feature, must beget in the inferior classes cunning and falsehood, and these our officers certainly found. The Lew Chewans pretend ignorance of offensive weapons, and of such no ojjen display is made by the people, but Dr. Bett'elheim says that he has seen fire-arms in their possession, though they seek to conceal them from strangers ; and they are doubtless, by nature, a pacific people. As to money, they know the value of gold and silver very well, and they traffic for the Chinese "cash," of which from twelve to fourteen Imndred are equivalent to the Spanish dollar. They are an eminently shrewd people, and proved themselves to be somewhat "smart" in the matter of exchange, when the disbursing officers of the squadron came to settle with them the value of the "cash." They showed no reluctance to take our eagles and half-eagles, though Captain Hall says they would not, in his day, touch the British gold coins. They have, on the whole, many excellent natural traits, and their worst vices are probably the result, in a great measure, of the wretched system of government under which they live. or were detained so that they were unable to return on board before night, there was no place to rest at, unless they abruptly entered the houses of the people ; that, as the men on board ship were ignorant of the Lew Chewan language, if they wanted only a cup of water they could not get it ; for these reasons, one or two houses were required, and if they were wanted for other purposes, these were all of a peaceable and friendly nature, but it was indispensible to have one. The mayor (of Napha) having intimated that the building already occupied by the sailors was a kung-kxcan, or public hall, if the officers would designate another building, they would remove to it according to their wishes." I find that the building now occupied is a public house, for the deliberations of officers and police, and meetings on public business; but having sought out a place which can be used, I find that the Shing-hien-sz' , or Holy Manifesting monastery, for preserving the anchorage of ships, can be obtained for a residence ; and I beg that orders for removal to this place, as a temporary residence, may be given. Then will the prince and authorities, one and all, be greatly obliged by this great kindness. An important petition. Hien fung, 3d year, 4th moon, 27th day, (June 3d, 1853.) This building might readily have been granted on the first application. It was, we believe, the same used by the English, on Captain Hall's visit. As to the young prince, the reader will be surprised to learn that there were the strongest reasons in the minds of many for suspecting him to be an imaginary personage. No one believed a syllable of the story about the queen dowager's illness ; indeed, there was no evidence to the Americans that there was a queen dowager. LEW CHEW MERCHANT. 161 The officers of the squadron were, during the period of the visit, most usefully and diligently- employed in making hydrographic surveys, and the results are all embodied in the charts which form part of the records of the expedition. Boat exercise in the harbor formed also part of the % £^0 .e^^^;^ Lew Chew Merchant. occupation of the several crews ; while the marines were on shore, drilling under the charge of their officers. These things indicated that the Commodore was determined to have every department in the highest state of discipline, that he might be prepared for any event. On Saturday, the 4th of June, the party that had heen sent to explore the interior of the island returned in safety, and the result of their labors will be found in the following chapter. 21 J Dr. BGtteIhpiin'3 roBidencp in T ^w ri;«w. 162 EXPKDITION TO JAPAN. CHAPTER VIII REPORT OF AN INLAND EXPLORATION OF GREAT LEW CHEW, BY A PARTY FROM THE SQUADRON, UNDER THE COMMAND OF COMMODORE FERRY. f!OaERTS.SC ONDAY, the 30th of May, says the report, was the day fixed upon by Commodore Perry for our departure. We were ordered to cross the island to the eastern shore, follow the line of coast northward, and return throiigh the interior, pushing our course as far as Itracticable, under our instructions to return within six days. All the stores having been procured, and packed in convenient parcels, together with portfolios and drawing materials, implements for pre- paring birds, &c., we landed about 10 o'clock, and proceeded to the house of the missionary, Dr. Bettelheim, which had been chosen as the rendezvous. The authorities had not been previously informed of our intention ; and, as it was evident that we should not be allowed to advance far without an escort, or espionage of some kind, Dr. Bettelheim sent to request that a proper officer should accompany us as guide. After waiting about an hour, and no person appearing, we decided to set out, believing that our guide would be forthcoming before we left the city. In fact, we had no sooner reached the main street, communicating with the road to Sheudi, than a portly personage, with a long white beard, and two younger officers, with black beards and swarthy complexions, joined us. A crowd of curious natives had also collected, and followed us until we left the city. "Each of the men carried a haversack, in addition to his arms, leaving about 120 pounds weight of baggage to be divided among the four coolies. The men, Terry and Mitchell, marched in advance, the former carrying the flag, while the other men. Smith and Davis, remained m the rear of the baggage ; this order was preserved during the whole expedition. We had not proceeded half a mile before our coolies showed signs of breaking down under their loads, and, even though we might force them to keep up for some time longer, it was evident that we could not make much progress without further help ; Mr. Jones, therefore, requested EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 163 tlie portly old officer, who seemed to have special charge over us, to supply us with four more coolies, promising that tliey should he jiaid on our return. After waiting half an hour at the northern end of the city, four spare young natives cauie uj) witli hamhoo poles, and relieved the Chinamen of half their load. We now took the high road to Shcudi, passing the salt creek which comes up from the village of Tume, hy a bridge of one arch ; the crowd turned back at this point, leaving us about a dozen followers, -svho seemed to be attendants oi* subordinates of the princiijal officers. Beyond the bridge we passed over a meadow, studded with singular broken rocks, of secondary limestone, covered with clumps of pine trees. The road then passed around the base of a hill, the front of which was occupied by a temple of massive stone masonry. It was shaded with large trees, resembling in foliage the Indian fig or sycamore. Paths, over which the hedges of bamboo formed complete arches, ran up the sides of the hill. On our right were meadows of bearded rice, a variety which Dr. Lynah declared to be unknown in the southern States. The country now became open and undulating, and covered with the richest vegeta- tion; not only was all the low land planted with rice, but the hills were in many places terraced nearly to the top, and the water carefully conducted from field to field by artificial channels. The streams were lined with thick hedges of banana, and the knolls which dotted the landscape were crowned with groves of the Lew Chew pine, a beautiful tree, strongly resembling the cedar of Lebanon in its flat horizontal layers of foliage ; it is probably a new species. There was something in the forms of the landscape which reminded me of the richest English scenery, mixed with the superb vegetation of the tropics. The views on each side increased in beauty as we approached Sheudi, the capital city of the island, which is scattered along the southwest slope of a group of hills. The houses are half buried in foliage, and stretch over an extent of a mile, the citadel, or residence of the viceroy, occupying an elevated central position. The day was dark and cloudy, threatening rain, and fresh wind blew in our faces as we climbed the heights. Near the summit we passed through a high wooden gate, upon which were inscribed two Chinese characters, signifying "the central hill," or "jalace of authority,") and entered the main street of the city, which is broad, handsomely- paved, and lined with high walls, behind which, and the foliage of their gardens, the princiiial dwellings are mostly concealed. As we reached the gate, the flag was unrolled, and fastened upon the end of a musket. A fine grove of old trees, with crooked trunks, gnarled boughs, and thick, dark-green foliage, attracted my attention on entering. We had not proceeded fifty paces before the officers attending us beckoned to us to enter a doorway on the right side of the street. We made a halt, and, leaving men and coolies outside, went in. It proved to be a Cung-qiid, or resting place for travellers, or rather for officers of government, since in Lew Chew there are no other travellers. The Cumj-qud corresponds very nearly to the Turkish khan, except that, being used only by persons of some consideration, it is far more neat and elegant in every respect. The house into which we were ushered resembled a private dwelling of the better class. The principal apartment was carpeted with very fine soft mats, and surrounded on three sides by an open verandah. Adjoining the building were kitchens and out-houses for servants, and in front a small yard planted with sago palms and a tree resemliling the Inocmjms. We were politely received by a gentleman in a gray robe, who performed the ho-tow towards us in the most approved style. Seats were brought, and tea, prepared after the Chinese fashion, served in 164 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. small cups. The attendant was directed, by signs, to wait first upon Mr. Jones, who was thenceforth recognized as the head of the party. The former served us on his knees, both when he offered and when he took away the cups. We remained but a few minutes, and took our leave, evidently to the surprise and perjilexity of our conductors, who did not as yet comprehend our object. On leaving Napha, we had noticed an expression of doubt and anxiety upon the faces of the natives, and this rather increased as we proceeded. No remonstrance whatever was made to us, but our movements were suspiciously scrutinized. When, therefore, we left the Cung-qua, and, instead of returning, took our course directly onward through the city, the faces of our convoy became clouded, and an expression of alarm communicated itself to those of the natives whose curiosity had attracted them around us. We soon reached the gate of the citadel, at the foot ol the massive walls, which, rising through groves of trees, dominate over the city. The gate was closed, but had it been open, we should not have presumed to enter. The northern and eastern elope of the hill is covered with splendid old trees, divided by winding, shaded avenues, on the sides of which many natives were sitting, with fans in their hands. The sun, which shone out hot and clear for an instant, chequered this rich, park-like scenery with strong contrasts of light and shadow, and down through the depths of the trees illuminated the face of a pool of water, so completely covered with the floating leaves of a species of lily as to appear like a patch of green sward. We passed around the base of the citadel to its eastern side, and, after some delibera- tion, took a paved road which led through the suburbs of the city in an E.S.E. direction. Wherever we turned we could see scouts running in advance, and driving the inhabitants away from our path, so that a silence and desertion, like that which follows pestilence, took place wherever we moved. All with whom we accidentally came in contact saluted us politely, but with a settled air of melancholy, which I ascribed to the surveillance exercised over them by an unnatural government, rather than any ill-will towards us. The northern side of Sheudi is a wilderness of rich vegetation. Tlie appearance of a flourish- ing cocoa-palm, now and then, showed that the climate is entirely tropical. The eastern suburb of the capital is composed principally of bamboo huts, thatched with rice sti-aw. The inhabi- tants were all hidden away out of sight, and blinds of split bamboo let down before the doors. We took a road which led along the hills towards the southeast, and after issuing from the capital, gained a ridge whence we could see a long line of the western coast, with the squadron riding at anchor in the harbor of Napha. From this point the interest of the journey properly commenced, as we were entering upon ground which no one before us had ever explored. The limit of the excursions made by others was Sheudi, and very few succeeded in entering that capi- tal. We were, therefore, greatly enlivened by the prospect before us, and pursued our way with more alacrity than comported with the comfort of our disheartened conductors. About a mile from Sheudi, the road turned more to the east, and after passing through a dense wood, came out upon a hill, whence we caught a glimpse of the sea on the eastern side. A temple, apparently erected during the past year, (for it was destitute of either altar or god,) stood in the shade of a clump of pines, and as it was now one o'clock we halted for refreshment. Some of the natives brought water, while the men picked up sufiicient dead wood to boil our kettle, and in the course of time we were regaled with tea and ship's biscuit. We offered the former to the ofiicers, but they did not appear to relish it. The Lew Chew coolies, however, ate heartily of the biscuit, which they had better earned than our vagabond Chinese. They gave < ' > O O CQ S •< CQ < Oh . ■< EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 165 the name of the place as Pino. Mr. Heine took a sketch of it, and astonished the natives, some forty or fifty of whom had collected to look at us, by firing at a mark with his rifle. Immediately after leaving Pino, whence we started at 3 p. m., the paved road ceased, and the way became deep and miry. The soil was a lead-colored, stifi" clay, the disintegration of shale rock, which here appeared for the first time. We had not proceeded more than half a mile before we reached the dividing ridge or crest of the island, and a magnificent panorama opened below us to the eastward. The sea-line of the Pacific formed the horizon, and a spacious sheet of water between two headlands which made out from the island led us to suppose that we were lookino- upon Barrow's Bay. Between us and the sea lay an amphitheatre of hills, cultivated to their very tops and clothed with the greenest verdure. Their sides were carefully terraced, and every advantage taken of the inclination of the soil, so as to collect the rains for irrigation. The cultivation was quite as patient and thorough as that of China. The picturesque formation of the hills gave a great variety of outline to the landscape, which embraced a compass of perhaps twenty miles. Towards the west we overlooked all the country we had passed, as far as a headland in the northwest, which I took to be Cape Broughton. Mr. Heine took a sketch of the view, looking eastward, while I attempted to take the western side. Resuming our march, we descended the ridge, which was about 600 feet above the sea-level. The clayey path leading down was very wet and slippery, and the coolies fell and rolled over several times with the baggage. Passing through gaps between the lower hills, we reached a semi-circular plain, nearly two miles in breadth, extending around the head of the bay. On either side was a village of thatched huts, buried in trees. The scouts had already been before us, and the natives lay concealed in their habitations. The former supposed that we would take a road leading to a large village at the head of the bay, but as we turned abruptly to the northward, we soon saw them running across the fields to regain the road ahead of us. There were a number of villages at the base of the hills, on our left, but so thickly studded with trees tliat they were almost concealed from view. I collected a number of plants, one of them a species of althasa, with a splendid scarlet blossom. The road which we took led through the rice fields and was very deep and muddy. While stopping to rest on a bridge over one of the irrigating streams, our old conductor came up with his two assistants, and intimated to us by signs that it was time we should return to the ships. The sun would soon set, they said, and we sliould have no place to sleep. We replied, (also by signs,) that instead of returning we were going northward, and would not reach the ships again for five or six days. They appeared greatly surprised at this and a little troubled, since it was part of their duty not to lose sight of us. The old fellow, who, in his haste to keep up, had slipped down in the muddy road and soiled the hinder part of his robe, laughed heartily at the accident, and finally became resigned to the prospect of the long tramp before him. They then pointed to the west, sayino- that there was a Cung-qua in that direction, where we could spend the night. Our course however, was nearly northeast, and about half past five, having reached a hill oyerlookin"- the bay, on the summit of which was an open space surrounded with young pines, we determined to encamp there. The people objected to our cutting down the trees, and we made tent poles by fastening together the bamboo staves used by the coolies. There was a village on the slope of the hill below us, and after some delay, caused by the difficulty of interpreting our wants to the native officials, we obtained four fowls, forty eggs, and two bundles of firewood. One of our Chinamen, "A-shing," professed to speak the Lew Chew language, but we soon found him as 166 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. miserably deficient in this as he was in all other useful qualities. His comrade, however, who spoke no English, could write Chinese, and the message having been thus communicated and written, was finally read by the old Pe-ching. The latter refused to accept either cash or dollars, saying that they were of no use to the people whatever, but that everything we needed would be furnished us. The Chinese suggested — probably on their own account — that we should pay the people in ship's biscuit, but we had scarcely enough for our own wants. It was at length decided that we should take what we required and settle for its value with the Pe-ching on our return. The people were tardy in bringing our firewood, and we were obliged to eat our supper by the light of our camp fire. I succeeded in getting a sketch of the bay, while daylight remained. It is deep and spacious, and protected by reefs across the mouth, but, judging from the appearance of the water, too shallow to be made available for naval purposes. A large village lies at its bead, and several fishing junks were at anchor before it. At night the plain sparkled with lights, some of them moving to and fro — probably lanterns carried by persons passing from one village to another. The officers determined to remain with us at all hazards, and ^i their Kxplorcrs. — Lew Chew. — Night Camp. command the people brought up bamboo poles and matting, out of which they erected a tempo- rary structure beside our tent. They were perfectly good-humored in their demeanor, and submitted with great patience to what they could not avoid. Before going to sleep we arranged four watches of two hours each, from 9 p. m. until 5 a. m., and the subordinate native policemen kindled a fire and kept a counter-watch. We were all somewhat fatigued with our first march EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 167 often miles, bnt the mosquitoes were so terribly annoying that few of us slept more than half an hour (lurint;; the whole night. Wo rose at dawn, and found the natives already stirring. The morning gave promise of fair weather. The Pe-ching and his associates came up and saluted us gravely as soon as we arose. It required about two hours to cook and eat breakfast, strike the tent, and pack the baggage for carrying. Wlien we were all ready we found eight native coolies on hand, those whom we took from Kapha having returned the evening previous. Leaving Camp Perry (as we named the spot) we took a path leading up a steep hill to the north. Winding around its brow, we descended into a valley, surrounded by abrupt, scarped hills. A stream flowing at the bottom of a deep gully, overhung with large banana trees, made its way out of this broad cul-de-sac towards the sea. We crossed the valley on the ridges of swampy grass, between the flooded rice-fields, and climbed a long and toilsome ridge, by wet, slippery paths, leading up through copses of young pine. We had now gained the spinal ridge of the island, and turned north- westward, over alternate hills and meadows, along its summit. The wood was principally pine, but I observed several new varieties of shrubs, not in flower. Now and then we passed the huts of the natives, generally in clusters of two and three, but even in this secluded region notice of our coming had reached them, and the inhabitants were hidden. I looked into some, and found the interiors to consist of a single room, smoke-blackened, and furnished with the rudest utensils. Two of them had a grating of bamboo, raised, like a floor, about six inches above the ground, and the thick mats which serve the Lew Chewans as beds were spread upon this. Mr. Jones left the camp before us, and we had not yet found him. Coming to a deep, wooded gorge, with a stream flowing westward, we discovered that our true course lay further to the east, and retraced our steps through the pine woods, and over upland rice-meadows to an open, grassy height, whence we saw Mr. Jones, surrounded by a group of natives, about half a mile to the south of us. In a shoi't time we again reached the summit ridge, overlooking the bay, and enjoyed the view of a superb landscape. The dividing ridge of the island, as we had already noticed, is nearest the eastern shore, to which the descent is much more abrupt than on the western. The cultivation on this side is also more thorough, and the crops more luxuriant. The knees of the mountains below us were feathered with beautiful groves of the Lew Ciiew pine, intermingled with terraced fields of grain and vegetables, while the plain below, through its whole sweep of fifteen miles, was brown with its harvest of rice. We counted a dozen villages, some of them of considerable size, dotting its expanse. To the northward extended a long head- land, far beyond what we had supposed to be the extremity of the bay, and projecting from the island in a southeasterly direction. It was now plain that we had not yet reached Barrow's Bay, of which this headland formed the southern boundary. While halting to rest our coolies, in the shade of a clump of pines, Mr. Heine shot a raven, with a beak much broader than the European species. There was a very large tomb, of a shape nearly circular, on the northern side of the ridge. About two miles further, the road swerving a little to the west, we came upon a singular rock, rising high out of a forest of pines. The summit, which was very sharp and jagged, was seventy or eighty feet above the crest of the ridge, and being composed of secondary limestone, honeycombed by the weather, it was an exceedingly striking and picturesque object. While Mr. Heine stopped to sketch it, and Mr. Jones to examine its geology, I climbed to tlie summit, which was so sharp as to make it a most uneasy seat. Finding that it was the highest peak in that part of the island, commanding a view which embraced a considerable reach of both 168 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. shores, I ordered the flag to be brought, and unfurled it from the top of the rock, while the men fired a salute from the base and hailed it with three hearty cheers. We bestowed upon it the name of "Banner Kock." The natives looked on, unable how to understand our proceedings, Bauner Kock. hut not in the least troubled by them. A little to the north of where we were the island narrowed suddenly, between the head of the eastern bay and a deep bight, which makes in on the western side, between Cape Broughton and the headland bounding Port Melville on the west. I judged its breadth, at this point, to be about four miles, in a straight line. To the southwest I could see the position of Sheudi, eight or ten miles distant. The landscape was rich and varied, all the hills being coated with groves of pine. We found on the rock the "Wax plant" of our greenhouses, in full bloom, the splendid scarlet Altluea, and a variety of the Malva, with a large yellow blossom. Continuing our march along the summit ridge, we came gradually upon a wilder and more broken region. Huge fragments of the same dark limestone rock overhung our path, or lay tumbled along the slopes below us, as if hurled there by some violent natural convulsion. As the hill curved eastward, we saw on its southern side a series of immense square masses, separated by deep fissures, reaching down the side nearly to its base. They were apparently fifty feet high, and at least a hundred feet square, and their tops were covered with a thick growth of trees and shrubbery. In the absence of any traces of volcanic action, it is difiicult to conceive how these detached masses were distributed with such regularity, and carried to such a distance from their original place. The eastern front of the crags under which we passed was EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 169 studded with tombs, some of them built against the rock and whitewashed, like the tombs of the present inhabitants, but others excavated within it, and evidently of great age. Looking Tombs in Lew Chew. down upon the bay it was easy to see that the greater part of it was shallow, and in some places the little fishing junks could not approach within half a mile of the shore. The rice-fields were brought square down to the water's edge, which was banked up to prevent the tide from over- flowing them, and I noticed many triangular stone dykes, stretching some distance into the water, and no doubt intended as weirs for fish. In less than an hour after leaving Banner Rock we were surprised by the discovery of an ancient fortress, occupying a commanding position upon the summit of one of the spurs of the central ridge. Its outline was irregular, but with a general direction from northeast to south- west; and while some parts of it were in perfect preservation, other portions were overgrown with vines and shrubbery, and hardly to be distinguished from the natural rock upon which it was based. Passing through an arched gateway, the road led to a terrace, overgrown with trees, upon which stood a structure of masonry resembling a cenotaph. A flight of stone steps con- ducted us to another gateway, after passing which, and a spacious vestibule, we entered the interior of the fortress. The space was occupied by a luxuriant grove of trees, and at the further end was a private dwelling of respectable appearance. Our Pe-ching was already there, and the master (whom our Chinese coolies designated the "Japanese Consul") respectfully invited us to enter. The day was oppressively hot, and we found two or three cups of Lew Chew tea an agreeable refreshment. Returning to the terrace, at the base of the outer wall, we halted in the 22 J 170 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. shade to allow the men their mid-day rest and meal. A flight of steep steps, cut in the rock, led downward on the northern side to a grotto under the foundation of the castle, at the bottom of which was a pool of cold, sweet water. The place was completely overhung by dense foliage, and inaccessible to the beams of the sun. While our meal was preparing, Mr. Jones traced out a rough plan of the fortress, and the men took measurements. The following are its dimensions, ascertained with tolerable accuracy: Length GrouDd'Plan of Nagagusko. _..--------- 235 paces. Breadth - - - - TO " Thickness of walls at bottom - - - - 6 to 12" Thickness of walls at top ---------- 12 feet. Greatest height of outer wall, measuring along the slope - - - - - 66 " Height of wall, from inside ---------- 12" Angle of outer wall ----------- 60 EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. lYl The material was limestone, and the masonry of admirable construction. The stones, some of which were cubes of four feet square, were so carefully hewn and jointed that tlie absence of any mortar or cement did not seem to impair the durability of the work. There were two remarkable points about the work. The arches were double, tlie lower course being formed of ^-^^^tyrlTr'J'o NagagusUo — Interior. two stones hewn into almost a parabolic curve, and meeting in the centre, over which was regular Egyptian arch, with its key-stone, as represented in the annexed outline, No. 1. the The other peculiarity was, that in jjlace of bastions, there were square projections of masonry, presenting a concave front, (No. 2,) which would catcliand concen- trate the force of a cannon ball, rather than ward it off. But this fortress must have been erected many centuries before the use of fire-arms of any kind could have been known to the Lew Chewans. Our Chinese pretended to give the name of the place as Ching-King, which arc Chinese words, signifying the chief or capital citadel. 172 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. We resumed our march at half past one o'clock. The old Pe-ching, "Chang- Yuen," who had hecome a little fatigued by this time, took a ka-goo, or Lew Chew chair, and followed in our rear, leaving the particular charge of us to his subordinates. The scouts were sent ahead, as usual, for our path descended again to the populous plain at the base of the hills. We already perceived indications of a fixed system in the espionage to which we were subjected. Rums of N-igagusko — North. Chang- Yuen and his two secondary officers were depiited to accompany us during the whole journey, while their dozen or more attendants and helpers were changed as we passed from one district of the island into another. Nothing could exceed the vigilance with which they watched us. We might separate into as many divisions as there were men, and yet each of us would still retain his native convoy. We could neither tire them down, nor run away from them. When, by chance, we suddenly changed our course, we still found them before us. And though this was the result of a jealous and exclusive system, yet they managed to give it the appearance of being done through respect for us. I was curious to obtain some information regarding the domestic life of the natives^ and frequently entered their huts unawares, in the hope of finding them at their avocations within. In most cases I found the huts deserted, but in some others caught the merest glimpses of Lew Chew life, in its more humble aspects. Near the castle^ while our convoy was passing around a village, I slipped into one of the alleys and entered a bamboo enclosure, within which were five neat dwellings. The mats were let down before the doors, but the people were all hidden behind screens and in lofts under the thatch, for on looking in I found no one but a child and an old r_j> isT"'*^ EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 17 man, wlao immediately knelt down and knocked his forehead on the floor before me. In another hilt, in a village on the plain, I found an old woman and a girl of about twelve years of age, both of whom fell on their knees, and held up their hands with an expression which was at once imploring and reverential. A few words of friendly greeting, though in English, encouraged them, and I should no doubt have been able to inspect the interior of the hut, had not one of the spies come up at that moment and driven them away. In the rich rice plains to which we descended we found sugar-cane for the first time, sorghum, or millet, and three varieties of the grain known in the United States as "broom-corn." The road struck out into the swampy rice fields, and we made for a green headland covered with pines. A village, almost completely buried in bowers and arcades of bamboo, lay at its foot. As we were about entering, we came upon two curious stones planted in the earth. The largest was about four feet high, and from its peculiar form struck me at once as a lingam, or emblem of the Phallic worship. The same idea occurred to Mr. Heine, who made a sketch of it. It was a very hard, dark-colored stone, resembling porphyry, and the only thing we could learn from the natives respecting it was, that they called it " ishee." There is no trace of this feature of the Hindoo religion existing either in Japan, China, or Lew Chew. The discovery of this stone, if it should prove to be a Phallic emblem, is therefore exceedingly curious. In the course of the afternoon we found two more, one of which was prostrate and broken. In conjunction with these remains, the face of the hill behind, for a distance of two miles, is almost entirely covered with excavated tombs, resembling the simpler forms of the rock tombs of Egypt and Syria. Our native conductors, when interrogated respecting them, called them " the houses of the devil's men," and seemed amused at our taking notice of them. This fact, in a country where ancestral tombs are considered sacred, as among the Chinese, seems to point to the existence of another race on the island, in ancient times — a race who may have received the worship of the Lingam from Java, or other islands where memorials of it exist. After an unavailing attempt to sh"oot a couple of herons in a rice field, we kept a course nearly due north, passing through several beautiful villages. The houses were surrounded with banana trees, and the alleys completely overarched with bamboo. In one of the houses I found a woman weaving grass-cloth, in a loom of primitive construction. She ceased from work as I approached the door, but commenced again, in obedience to my gestures. The shuttle was a little longer than the breadth of the stuff, and thrown by hand. At the foot of the hill Dr. Lynah found a piece of lignite, which resembles coal, but is unfortunately no indication of its presence. We had a long and toilsome ascent up a barren hill which brought us again upon a cultivated upland. There were three or four cattle grazing here, the first we had noticed since leaving Napha. We saw a horse now and then, but this animal appeared to be scarce. The dividing ridge between the bays was about three miles in advance, and though the afternoon was nigh spent, and the whole party was considerably fatigued, we determined to get sight of Barrow's Bay before encamping. At last we reached a large village on the western slope of the ridge. It was surrounded with plantations of banana^ and a tall pine grove towered over it. Through a deep road gate, cut in the crest of the hill, a fine picture of Barrow's Bay and the mountains beyond presented itself to our view. The southern shore of the bay was about three miles distant, and a singular range of rocks, rising in detached square masses like the walls and towers of a ruined city, intervened. The landscape was more richly wooded than those on the southern bay, and the outlines of the hills were rounder and more gently undulating. We 174 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. seemed to have reached a region of a different geological character. We were ahout to pitch our tent at this place, when the native officers gave us to understand that there was a Cung-qud a short distance further, and urged us so strongly to go on that we shouldered our muskets and haversacks and started again. But we had a rough tramp of nearly three miles further, and finally came, with bruised feet and aching shoulders, upon tlie last descent to Barrow's Bay. Picturesque crags studded the hillside, and a large village, completely covered with thickets of hanana and hamhoo, lay before us. Over it towered a tall crag, rent through the centre and surmounted with a square rock, like a ruined tower. We threaded the village by shaded alleys, and at the further end, on a spot commanding a fine view of the bay, found a handsome Cung-qud, in an enclosure planted with trees. A dignitary of some kind welcomed us, and we were at once served with small cups of excellent tea. The soft, thick mats, the shelter and comfort of the building, were well worth tlie fatigue of our forced marcli. Fresh water in earthen jars, with a square wooden ladle floating on the top, stood ready for us, and there was a kitchen in the rear where our men could cook conveniently. The Pe-ching came in after sunset and greeted us with much cordiality. Eggs and fowls were immediately furnished, and, as at our former camp, all payment was refused. The utmost curiosity appeared to prevail in the village respecting us, and, as it grew dark, the circle of heads peering over the wall enclosins the Cung-qua increased rapidly, till there could not have been less than two or three hundred. Fires were kindled all around us, and the ruddy glow thrown up by them and by the torches carried back and forth flickered brilliantly over the dusky foliage of the trees. A watch was set as before, and the mosquitoes being less annoying we all enjoyed a tolerable rest. The Chinamen were, or feigned to be, completely spent, and for the greater part of the day the baggage had been carried by Lew Chew coolies. The patience, good humor, and endurance of the latter, quite put to shame the worthless and deceitful creatures whom we had been indiscreet enough to bring 4vitli us. The natives kept their counter-watch, and on rising before sunrise the next morning, we found that fifty or sixty of them had passed the night at their camp fires. The object of the officers in having a watch kept seemed to be both to prevent any of us from stealing a march upon them during the night, and to hinder any of the natives from annoying us. Mr. Jones made application for a boat to carry us across the bay, but there was none to be Lad. The name of the village to which the Cung-qua belonged was "Missikya." We set our little file in motion and proceeded, by a pleasant path, over level land, a mile or two inland. The cultivation was thorough, but confined mostly to beans and sweet potatoes. The villages were so hidden away behind their alleys of tall, arched bamboo that the police scouts had little need to precede us. A native guide ran ahead ; but as he constantly took the left-hand road, leading into the middle of the island, evidently with a view of conducting us back to Sheudi, we finally halted at the foot of an isolated hill, covered with wood, and held a consultation. The wild mountain-range north of Barrow's Bay now appeared on our right, and it was plain that our course was leading us away from the head of the bay, which we desired to reacli. We, therefore, turned, in spite of the protestations of the guide and the native officers, and passed around the eastern brow of the hill, whereon we found two grottoes of soft limestone rock. The scenery here was a charming mixture of pine forest and cultivated field ; and both in its features and its prevailing hue of dark-green resembled the landscapes of southern Germany. In the bottom of the valley was a stream lined with bristling ranks of the pandanus, or false EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 175 pine apple. We were obliged to pull off our Loots and wade. We here found a shrub with sraall white blossoms and bright-green milky leaves ; another with yellow berries of a powerful aromatic taste ; and a liliaceous plant, with a racine of flowers resembling those of the snap- dragon, but white in hue, with a fringed lip of the richest orange. At one of the villages on the plain I noticed tlie plum and the orange, and a new variety of the banyan, with very small glossy leaves. Beyond the stream we struck into fragrant pine woods, and finally into a dense forest, where the path was still wet and slippery from the rains, and the branches, meeting overhead, made a perpetual shade. There were few flowers, and still fewer birds, in this wilderness. In fact, the scarcity of birds all over the island, considering that they are not destroyed by the natives, is rather singular. The day was very clear and hot, and the trees, while they shaded us, quite shut off the sea breeze. The foliage was almost tropical, consisting of dense glossy-leaved shrubs and luxuriant ferns, overtopped by woods of pine. Smaller paths branched off here and there to the distant huts of the woodmen. After ascending for more than two miles, we crossed a ridge and the path became gradually more open, exposing a view to the west, over high hills, covered entirely with copscwood and patches of pine forest. The country resembled the wild lands of America. There were swamps in the hollows, and we began to look out for the wild boars which are said to exist in this part of the island. Catching anotlier view to the eastward, we found ourselves near the head of Barrow's Bay, and after a half hour's halt, to rest the coolies, set out again. Our official escort came up during the halt, much fatigued, but as cordial and good humored as ever. Indeed, considering that all their trouble and fatigue were caused by ourselves, we had every reason to admire the unshaken patience with which they submitted to our ajiparently wayward course. Crossing another hill, we passed down broad, well-trodden paths, shaded by magnificent arches of foliage, through a neat village. The houses were larger than usual, and there was an aspect of greater wealth. Among the trees was one fifteen feet high, covered with cream-colored blossoms, which exhaled the fragrance of nutmeg. An avenue of pines led /lown from this lovely spot to a narrow plain at the head of Barrow's Bay. The rice growing in these parts was very scanty and not yet in head. A large village, buried in trees, extended for half a mile inland from the sea shore. We took a path leading down to the beach ; but Mr. Jones, who was in advance, entered the village, where he was very courteously received and twice presented with tea and pipes. The exhibition of his watch^ and a pocket microscope, excited the unbounded wonder of the natives. The village was named "Isitza." We forded a salt creek and pitched our noonday camp on a piny knoll, at the foot of the hills. As Mr. Jones had not arrived, we fastened our flag to the top of a tree and fired signals. I took a bath in the sea, with the men, while our kettle was boiling. The water was excessively saline, and the fine white particles of salt covered my face like dust as it became dry. At this point Mr. Jones found a stratum of gneiss, for the first time, at the water's edge. Our native friends drank three cups of our tea and asked for some biscuits, which they seemed to relish. Before starting again we had a talk with them about the route. We wished to reach a point on the coast north of Barrow's Bay, marked as "Kaneja" on our copy of the Japanese chart of Lew Chew. The officers did not seem to recognize any such place, though they spoke of "Kannah," where there was a Cung-qua, 30 U, or ten miles distant, and we decided to reach it, if possible. We left at half-past one, taking one of the natives as a guide. The path followed the line ot 176 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. the bay, and we walked, for two hours, in deep sand and crushqd shells, around curve and head- land. It was very toilsome work, especially as the glare of the sand struck directly in our faces. The beach was narrow and bordered with thick hedges of the pandanus, the fruit of which resembles that of the pine apple. The mountains on our left were wild and uncultivated. There were occasional paths striking up their sides ; but, although the compass told us that the shore-path led us out of our true course, the guide refused to take any of them. At the end of two hours we reached a large village, where the guide, who had followed us from "Isitza," levied a substitute and turned back. A two-masted junk, of thirty or forty tons burden, lay at anchor in a cove near this place. We were now approaching the northern extremity of Barrow's Bay, and had a full view of the long headland south of it, and the four islands which lie, like a breakwater, across its mouth. The bay appeared to be extremely shallow, except near the entrance ; and I doubt whether it would be of much value, as a harbor, for shij^ping of large size. The path, finally, turned off to the north, up a steep hill, which brought us upon a rolling upland, covered with abundance of wood. The mountains we had passed exhibited an outline similar to the Catskills, and there was nothing in the scenery to remind us of the vicinity of the tropics. We i^resently entered a fine, broad avenue of pines, at the extremity of which appeared a handsome house, with a tiled roof. Our native conductors passed on into some bamboo arches, which denoted a village beyond ; but I slipped suddenly into the open entrance and found a spacious house in the midst of a garden, with a small Buddhist temple beside it. Quick as my motions had been, the mats were already let down before all the doors, and nobody was to be seen. Before the house was a plant about ten feet high^ with large scarlet panicles of flowers. I had barely time to break off a cluster when one of our officers came hurrying up and urged me, by signs and words, to leave, saying that the Bunyo, or Governor, as he designated Mr. Jones, had gone on. I, therefore, followed him through the village to a Cung-qua, which was larger and finer than any we had yet seen. It was like an elegant jjrivate residence; having a garden, enclosed by a squarO;, clipped hedge of jessamine, and a separate establishment for servants and attendants. There were rows of chrysanthemums (a flower much esteemed by the Japanese) and two peach trees in the garden, besides a stout camellia, clipped into a fanciful shape. We installed ourselves in the chief apartment, on the soft matting, while the Pe-ching and his train took the other building. The only supplies we could procure were raw salt fish and sweet potatoes, with some roots of a native onion, pickled in salt. Neither fowls nor eggs could be found. The natives gave the name of the village as "Ching," which, being a Chinese word, is evidently incorrect ; but we could get no other. The paper screens between the rooms were removed on our arrival, tea was brought in_, and the natives busied themselves to make us com- fortable; but the same unrelaxing espionage, as at "Missikya," was kept up through the whole night. Again camp-fires were kindled and guards posted around us, while crowds of curious natives peeped from behind the bushes and walls to gratify their desire of seeing us. Mr. Heine, who had the first watch, went out to the camp fire, showed the people his watch, and other curiosities, and soon had a large crowd of villagers gathered about him ; but one of the officers making his appearance, a single word of command scattered them in all directions, and they did not return again. In the evening I offered a handful of cash to one of the boys who had accompanied us from Napha. He refused it very earnestly, as there were two other boys standing near ; but, watching an opportunity, when he was alone, I offered it again, when he immediately accepted it, with gestures expressive of his thanks. i^^_ EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 177 The Pe-cliing, who had fallen in the rear, came up after dark, and immediately sought us, to make his salutations. "We found that he and his associates had been keeping a journal of our proceedings, and had already filled a roll of paper several yards in length with their remarks. We had but few mosquitoes, and slept so well that I had some difficulty in rising for tbe mid- watch. After much search, two tough old hens were found for our breakfast, which we ate under the scrutiny of an hundred eyes, continually peering at us over walls, or popping out from behind bushes. Whenever we noticed any of them the heads disap})eared, but they returned again as soon as our gaze was removed. We were now commencing our fourth day, and it was time to think of turning back shortly. After some consultation, it was determined to follow the coast for a short distance further, then strike across the island in the direction of Port Melville, and reach in the evening a point on the western shore corresponding to the latitude of our present camp. On starting, the native officers were very urgent in requesting us to take a road leading westward. We kept, however, a course nearly due north, and soon reached a hill, whence there was an excellent view of the country on all sides. The northern headland of Barrow's Bay lay behind us. The general direction of the coast in advance was N.E., stretching away to a distant promontory. A si)inal ridge of mountains, covered with a wilderness of forests, ran parallel with the coast, leaving a narrow strip of cultivated land next the sea. A column of smoke ascended from one of the northern peaks, which we judged (and rightly, as it afterwards proved) to be a fire in the woods. Mr. Jones decided to make for a gorge between two peaks, about six miles distant, and rather to the east of north. We crossed a deep valley, with a salt creek at its bottom, and, after following the coast for some time, took a road which, after ascending a long barren ridge, plunged into the woods. The further we advanced, the more dense became the wilderness. The only jjersons we met were woodmen, whom we saw occasionally felling trees with their rude axes. The path was narrow, wet, and slippery, and for two or three miles a continual ascent. At length we reached a conical peak covered with trees. The ascent was very difficult, and I halted with the coolies at the base, while Mr. Jones, Dr. Lynah, and Mr. Heine, went up to obtain a view. By climbing the trees and cutting away some of the limbs, they opened epace for a grand central panorama of the island, which Mr. Heine set about sketching from the tree-top. The path, which by this time had dwindled almost out of sight, passed directly over the summit. We found the ascent like a staircase, and were obliged to use hands and feet to reach the top. The Lew Chew coolies who carried our baggage made their way up with great difficulty. As we were all suffering from thirst, I started in advance, with the seaman Mitchell, tbe Chinamen, and the coolies. The path, which was now a faint woodman's trail^ did not appear to have been travelled for months. It was shut in by a species of small bamboo, so dense as almost to exclude light, and a large, red, hairy spider had woven innumerable webs across it. Now ascending, now descending, we pushed ourselves or crept through the almost impervious copse wood, for nearly two miles, till the path became more open, and a partial look-out to the westward showed us the China sea. On the side of the nearest peak to the northward, we distinctly saw the woods on fire and a bare space of about ten acres studded with charred trunks. The descent was very slippery, but becoming more and more open, I at length recognized our position. We were approaching the head of the deep bight south of Port Melville, and separated from it by an arm of the island, which stretches out to the northwest, 23 J 178 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. at right angles to the main body. The curious peaked island called the "Sugar Loaf," off the point of this promontory, was in view before us. The western slope of the island at this point is covered almost entirely with forests, the cultivation being confined to the bottoms of valleys and ravines opening upon the sea. The path led across the top of a narrow ledge about a yard wide, with chasms more than a hundred feet deep on each side, and then dropped to the bottom of the glen, where we found a stream of deliciously cool and sweet water. We all drank to excess, and then climbed a little ridge beyond, where the air blew fresh, and sat down to await the rest of the party. Mr. Jones found granite of fine quality in the ravine, and we afterwards met with another broad stratum in a rocky gateway further below. Our only path made for a village on the shore, whither we repaired for our mid-day halt. The houses were lined with luxuriant bananas, in blossom, and the lanes between them hedged with the glossy inocarpus, forming walls of foliage twenty feet in height, outside of which were neat wicker fences of split bamboo. Near the village were three structures raised upon timber frames, and covered with thatched roofs Valley and Rice Houses. They appeared to he storehouses, elevated in this manner to preserve the grain from the moisture of the earth. Beneath them were wooden platforms, oifering us shade and convenience for our halt. The people brought us sweet potatoes, a small pan of salt fish, and a pumpkin, which was all they could supjily. Even these w*e refused us until the arrival of the Pe-ching^ to whose authority all the others deferred. The rapidity of our march had left him in the rear, EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 179 but he came up after an hour, and set himself to work with great good humor to supply our wants. In order to shield themselves from the heat of the sun, some of his attendants had tied hanana leaves around their heads, and they all complained of fatigue. We left Ny-komma, as the village was called, about half past two. At this, the most northern point we reached, we could not have been more than eight or nine miles distant from Port Melville. The intervening land was low, and another day would have enabled us to reach the head of that harbor. The native officials explained to us by signs, and by tracing lines on the sand, that the I'oad to Sheudi lay along the beach, and that there was a Cung-qua about 20 li distant. We tramped along sandy beaches and over stony headlands, following the general course of the shore, and never diverging far from it. The bay, or bight, marked with numerous abrupt indentations, presented some fine bold outlines of shore. Off the taany inferiol' promontories lay rocky islets, covered with rich vegetation. The wooded mountains on our left were the same which we had skirted the day previous on the northern side of Barrow's Bay. The lower slopes on this side were partially cultivated, but the principal thoroughfare of the island, which we were following, kept near the sea, and often ran for half a mile through deep sand and shells. The scenery was extremely picturesque, reminding me of the coast of Sicily. Inside of the Sugar Loaf we espied two small boats, with lug-sails of white canvass, which the men declared were our ship's boats; but this has since proved to be a mistake. Notwithstanding the sultry heat of the afternoon, the Lew Chew coolies kept pace with us, under their heavy loads, while our lazy and complaining Chinamen lagged behind. These coolies were mostly boys, from twelve to sixteen years of age. I noticed as a curious fact that, in spite of the heavy loads they carried, and the rough by-ways we frequently obliged them to take, they never perspired in the least, nor partook of a drop of water, even in the greatest heat. They were models of cheerfulness, alacrity, and endurance, alwaj's in readiness, and never, by look or word, evincing the least dissatisfaction. Our official conductors drank but two or three times of water during the whole journey. Tea appears to be the universal beverage of refreshment. It was always brought to us whenever we halted, and frequently offered to Mr. Jones, as the head of the party, in passing through villages. Once, at an humble fisherman's village, when we asked for mid, which signifies cold water, they brought us a pot of hot water, which they call yii, and were much sui-prised when we refused to drink it. After a march of ten miles along the picturesque shore, we reached one of the loveliest spots on the island. It was a village perched on a bold promontory, overgrown with the pine, banyan and sago palm, at the mouth of a charming valley which opened up between the hills to the base of the lofty peak behind Barrow's Bay. A stream of sweet water threaded the valley, which was covered with the freshest verdure, and overhung with beautiful groves of pine. It was a picture of pastoral loveliness, such as is rarely found in any country. Nothing struck me more during the journey than the great variety of scenery which the island encloses in its narrow compass. We passed through, at least, four different districts, which bore but the slightest resemblance to each other, either in features or character. We had both the o-roves of the tropics and the wild woods of the north ; the valleys of Germany and the warm shores of the Mediterranean. The village was large, thriving, and as neatly laid out and hedged in as an English garden. The scrupulous neatness and regularity of the Lew Chew villages was doubly refreshing to one familiar with the squalor and filth of China. The sight of the Cung-qua, which occupied the 180 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. place of honor at the top of the promontory, completed our raptures. Its roof of red tiles glittered in the sun; a row of feathery sago palms threw their brilliant leaves over the wall of the enclosure ; the whitest and softest of mats covered the floor ; the garden blazed with a profusion of scarlet flowers; and stone basins, seated on pedestals, contained fresh water for our use. Its aspect of comfort and repose was a balm to travellers as weary as ourselves, and I directed Terry at once to hoist the stars and stripes upon the roof. I hastened back to make a sketch of the beautiful valley before sunset, while Mr. Heine occupied himself with a view of the Cung-qua. A venerable old man, with a snowy beard reaching nearly to his knees, approached the bank where I sat, but upon noticing me, made a profound yet dignified reverence and retired. The village was named Un-na. We had not yet reached the region of fowls, but the people sent us two small fresh fish, witli a pumpkin and some cucumbers. Our own stores were quite low, both sugar and pork having been exhausted, so that we had nothing left but tea, coffee and ship biscuit. Kung-Kwa near On-na, Lew Chew. The natives kindleil a fire inside the grounds of tlie Cung-qua, and half a dozen of them sat around it all night. The morning was dull, and a cap of mist on the moiintain threatened rain. A bath in the sea before sunrise refreshed us for the day's march. For our breakfast, there were sent two long, eel-like fish, resembling the gar, a few young egg-plants, two gourds and a basket of sweet potatoes. So much time was occupied in cooking and consuming these delicacies, that we did not get under way before 8 o'clock. Another consultation was held with our attendants, who declared that Sheudi was 00 /)' distant, and that it would require three days for EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 181 US to reacli Naplia; this did not correspond with our own ideas of oiir position, and we deter- mined to attempt reaching Napha the next evening', as we had been ordered. We passed through the village of Uii-fla, and over the headland to a deep hay. The tide was running out, and instead of wading through the sand around its entire curve, we made a straight line for the opposite shore, tramping through water two or three inches deep over beds of decomposing coral. We had proceeded along the shore for an hour and a half, when A-shing, one of the Chinese coolies, fell sick in consequence, as it afterwards appeared, of drinking sackee, and eating green peaches. His load was given to the Lew Chew coolies, and he obtained a temporary relief by punching his throat, in three places, so violently as to produce an extra- vasation of blood. Counter irritation is the usual Chinese remedy for all ailments, and it is frequently very efficacious. We were near a fishing village, and Mr. Jones endeavored to obtain a canoe, in which to send both our Chinamen back to the vessel. The Pe-ching begged him to give up the idea, since one of the native officers would be obliged to accompany them, and they all feared to trust themselves in the frail craft. They brought a Jcagoo, or rude sedan, in which they offered to have the man conveyed to Napha, but he was better by this time and declared himself able to proceed on foot. The officers expressed the greatest satisfaction when they found that none of them would be required to return in the canoe. In the meantime the rest of us had pushed forward with the baggage. The morning was very hot, the glare from the white beach-sand struck in our faces^ and we began to tire of an endless tramp around cove after cove, and headland after headland. We were now^ as we calculated, opposite the head of Barrow's Bay, and Sheudi was almost in a due southerly direc- tion ; yet the road still clung to the coast, as if intent on carrying us to the extreme point of Cape Broughton, thus greatly lengthening our journey, besides which, our orders were to return through the centre of the island. In answer to all our inquiries, the native officers and guides pointed along the shore, and were extremely anxious to prevent our taking any inland paths. This excited our suspicion, and we imagined their object to be to prevent our seeing the interior. Finally, coming to a well-trodden path, which struck off up the hills, we shut our ears to all remonstrance and took it. In a short time it brought us to a handsome village, shaded not only with bamboo, but with splendid banyan trees. Beyond it there was a deep ravine, with a faintly marked foot-path leading to some svater at the bottom. Again the natives entreated us to take a path which plainly led to the shore. They pointed to the gorge, crying "mizi," intimating that the path went no further than the water. Nevertheless, seeing traces of a path on the opposite side, we descended, followed by the unwilling officers and coolies. The pool of water which supplied the village was shaded by the largest pines I saw on the island. They were 70 or 80 feet in height, whereas the average is not more than 40 feet. Our suspicions did injustice to the natives, for we soon found that they had our convenience in view. Our path struck into a side-branch of the ravine, which, though not more than twenty feet wide, was a rice-swamp at the bottom. The sides were nearly perpendicular walls of earth and loose rocks, so that we were obliged to plunge up to the knees in mud. One of the men, Smith, sank so deep that it required the strength of three natives to extricate him. When, at last we reached the top of the hill, we found it covered with waste thickets, and no path to be seen except one on an opposite height, which we reached with some trouble. The path, an old and unused one, led us back to the beach, which it now seemed impossible to leave. The coolies, who had had a hard tug to get through the rice-swamp, took the whole matter very good humeredly, and the officers laughed, as I thought, with a sort of malicious pleasure at our dis- 182 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. comfiture. The walk over tlae white sand was doubly fatiguing after this, and on the arrival of Mr. Jones we determined again to make for the interior, especially as we had reached the head of the last cove, whence the coast appeared to run almost due westwardly to Cape Broughton. Mr. Jones and Dr. Lynah, with the men Davis and Smith, took a foot-path leading southward into the mountains, and after proceeding a little further along the coast I followed them with the seaman Mitchell. Mr. Heine, with Terry and the Lew Chew coolies, still kept the shore. We (Mitchell and I) reached with great difficulty the path taken by the first party. It ascended steeply through pine forests, alternating with dense copsewood, for about two miles, till we gained the summit of the ridge. The whole expanse of Barrow's Bay came full into view to the eastward, while to the south we looked beyond the promontory we had been doubling so tediously, and saw the same deep cove we had beheld three days before from the top of Banner Eock. But all the interior of the island was still a wilderness, and for ten miles in advance stretched an unbroken forest. Our path did not appear to have been much travelled — other small paths branched from it, but the party in advance had broken off boughs and left them as guides for us. I was much spent with the heat and the exertion of climbing so rapidly, and after drinking out of a muddy hole filled with leaves, felt an attack of mingled heat and cold, with an oppression of the heart, which took away all my strength. We saw the other party on the top of a high peak ahead of us. The path crossed a ledge as narrow as a wall, with deep gulfs on each side, and then ascended a rocky ladder, the steepness of which took away what little strength I had remaining — I was obliged to lie down for some time before I could proceed further. A rain- cloud coming up rapidly over Barrow's Bay admonished us to leave our lofty look-out. The path kept on southward through miles of wilderness, but the natives who had accompanied us pointed to another^ which led back almost the way we came, and which they said would bring us to a Cung-qua. As there were no signs of the baggage, we were thus under the necessity of retracing our steps almost to the shore. On our way we passed through a singular gorge, which was closed up, in its narrowest part, by fragments hurled from above by some convulsion of nature. The stream flowing at the bottom disappeared for about fifty yards, when it again issued to the light through a cavernous opening. A rain now came on^ which continued for two or three hours, and made the road slippery and toilsome. We passed through a village, romantically situated in a wooded glen, and over uplands, covered with groves of pine^ the path gradually swerving to the south, till it finally struck directly across th : promontory. A great part of the way was a waste of wild thickets, with marshy hollows between the hills. We saw, several times, the tracks of wild boar, which the natives assured us were abundant ; but we were not so fortunate as to get a sight of one. There were no traces of our baggage until we found the Pe-ching, and two other natives, crouching under a bush to keep out of the rain and smoking their pipes. Finally, about half- past two, we heard the report of fire-arms, and soon after reached the Cung-qua of "Ohanda- kosa," where M. Heine and the coolies had already been waiting some time for us. We were uncertain whether the building was a lonafide Cung-qua or the residence of a hunyo, or officer, for it was occupied, when Mr. Heine arrived, by a personage of some kind with his attendants, but immediately given up for our use. There was a crowd of at least a hundred natives collected within the enclosure and looking on, with great astonishment, while Mr. Heine fired at a mark. What seemed most to interest them, next to the accuracy of his aim, was the fact of the piece exploding without the application of fire, (nothing but Japanese matchlocks ever being seen on the island,) and its being loaded at the breech. They appeared familiar with the nature of > CD CO c^ EXPLORATION OF LEW CUEW. 183 gunpowder, and tlie use of our cutlasses ; but during our journey we never saw a single weapon of any kind. There is said to be a small garrison of Japanese soldiers, both at Kapha and Sheudi ; but^ if so, they were carefully kept out of the way. The Pe-ching, who soon afterwards came up, informed us that we had come 30 li, and that Sheudi was still 60 li distant, and we could not reach it on the following day. Learning, however, that there was another Cung-qua. 20 U further, we decided to rest an hour or two, and push on to it the same evening. The people brought two fowls, with abundance of eggs and cucumbers, and, hungry and tired as we were, we made a most palatable meal. We left again at half-past four. The road was broad, well beaten, and shaded by a double road of pine trees. It ran in a southeastern direction, parallel with the coast, and about two miles inland. The country continued open, sliglitly undulating, and pleasantly diversified with groves of pine for four miles, when we came suddenly upon a deep glen, traversed by much the largest stream we had seen upon the island. The road crossed by a massive stone bridge, of three arches, remarkable for the size and rude strength of the piers, each of which had, on the inner side, in order to protect it from floods, a triangular abutment, projecting ten or twelve feet. The sides of the glen were nearly perpendicular, and covered with wild and luxuriant vegetation. Towards the sea, under a range of broken limestone crags that hung high over the stream, were several ancient excavated tombs. A spring of excellent water gushed out from the foot of one of these crags. Mr. Heine took a sketch of the place, which was remarkable for its seclusion and picturesque beauty. The natives called the stream the ''Fi-ija." On reaching a height overlooking the sea, we were agreeably surprised with the sight of the squadron, lying off the furthest point to the southwest, and between fifteen and twenty miles distant, in a straight line. This encouraged us to believe that we could reach Napha at the time ajjpointed, and we pushed on rapidly and cheerily, for it was now growing dark, and no appearance of the Cung-qra. The road approached the shore, and became a raised causeway, passing through rich rice swamps. The natives whom we met in the dusk of the evening took to flight on seeing us. At last, at half-past seven, weary and spent with a tramjD of twenty- seven miles, the native herald who ran before us turned into a gateway, over which towered a magnificent banyan tree. We followed, and discharged our pieces in a general feu-de-joie, on seeing a Cung-qua with the lamps lighted, attendants waiting with their trays of tea-cups, and a polite old gentleman standing in the verandah to receive us. The Lew Chew mats were never so soft, nor the cups of unsugared native tea so refreshing, as on that evening. Eggs, cucum- bers, rice, and fowls were immediately forthcoming, and our men concocted a soup which, to our minds, could not have been improved. The old Pe-ching made his appearance at a late hour, nearly as fatigued as ourselves, but overflowing with cordiality and good humor. A company of native guards kindled a fire under the banyan tree, and prepared to spend the night there. Our men were so fatigued that, in anticipation of another hard journey on the morrow, we dis- pensed with the usual watch. It was the less important, as we had found the native guard exceedingly vigilant in keeping away all stragglers from our vicinity. The light of the ruddy camp-fire, playing over the spreading boughs of the banyan-tree, brought into strong relief the groups of swarthy faces clustered around it, and presented a i)icture so fantastic and peculiar that I sat looking at it long after I ought to have been asleep. The sound of rain upon the tiles of our Cung-qua awoke us frequently during the night, and when we arose at daybreak the sky was overcast, the roads flooded, and a steady dismal storm had set in. The Pe-ching and his associates wished us to stay at "Pi-ko," as the Cung-qua 184 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. was called, until the next day, slapping their legs to indicate how tired they were^ and making signs of slipping up and falling down in the mud. But we were inexorable, and they sent for a new set of coolies to carry our baggage. We had another discussion about the distance, which ended in their declaring that Sheudi was 65 li and Napha 30 li distant. This was absurd, and probably oiight to be attributed to the ignorance of the Chinese, through whom we communicated with them. The coolies prepared themselves for the rain by putting on shaggy jackets of grass, resembling the sheep-skin garments of the Eoman herdsmen. Our men had their pea-jackets, and we were partially protected by ponchos of gutta-percha and oilcloth. We were dela^^ed in getting breakfast, and did not break up our camp until half-past nine, when we set out, every- body stiff and sore from the previous day's travel. The rain was still falling, though not so heavily as at first, and the road was an alternation of water and stiff mud, through which we trudged with difficulty, and at the risk of leaving our boots behind us. After rounding the head of the bight, we struck off over the hills to the southwest, and in an hour and a half came upon another deep glen, in the bottom of which were two massive bridges over a stream so broad and deep that it was doubtless a frith of the sea. We stopped an hour to rest and enable Mr. Heine to take a sketch of the place. I noticed that the heavy triangular abutments to the piers were here placed on the side next the sea. The natives gave the glen, or river, the name of "Machinatoo." The rain had ceased by this time, excejit an occasional sprinkle, and the road improved. After another hour the roads branched, that on the left striking off up the hills to Sheudi. We kept on over the hills towards Napha, the scenery gradually assuming a familiar appearance, till finally, from a height covered with pine trees, we looked down upon the harbor and the American squadron. After fording a broad salt creek, and crossing another ridge, we descended to the village of Tum6, opposite Napha. We reached our starting point, the house of Dr. Bettelheim, at 2 p. m., and there took leave of our worthy Pe-ching and his two assistants, after having appointed a time to meet them again, and endeavor to return some compensation for the provision furnished during the journey. The distance we travelled during the six days was 108 miles, as nearly as we could calculate. Our trip embraced a little more than half the island, leaving the extremity south of Napha, (which is of limited extent,) and that part north of the head of Port Melville, and lying on both sides of that harbor, for future exploration."* On the return of the party Mr. Jones submitted the following report to the Commodore of his observations : "Before describing the ancient royal castle of Chun-Ching, which we discovered in our recent exploration of Lew Chew, it may be well to say a few words about the geology of the island, as the two are connected with each other. Going northward from Napha we find the general surface-rock to be argillaceous, either compact or shaly, which is intersected, at frequent intervals, by dykes or ridges of secondary limestone, of a very remarkable character. When we get as high up as Barrow's Bay the argillaceous rock ceases, and is succeeded by talcose slate, in which, however, the same limestone dykes occur. At the most northern point reached by us, that is, at the village of Nacumma, on the west side of the island, say forty-two miles north of Napha, we reached granite, rising there •This report is from the pen of Mr. Bayard Taylor, who, it will be remembered, was directed by Commodore Perry to keep a journal of the incidents of the exploration, and make the report. CO 3 ::> I PC GEOLOGY OF LEW CHEW. 185 into a hill of some elevation, but so soft as easily to be cut by a hatchet. This granite is of a grey color, sometimes almost white ; and its mica, which is black, lies scattered about in the mass in beautiful six-sided crystals, giving it often a handsome appearance. The talcose slate has a strike of S. 10° W., and a dip to the W. of 60°. It is mixed with quartz and other foreign ingredients of a hard character, and comes to the surface in sharp, jagged edges ; very severe upon the feet. The argillaceous rock gives some marked features to the island. The rounded hills south of Barrow's Bay are all of this. Being soft, it yields readily to foreign agencies, and is often broken into bare faces, with perpendicular sides ; and thus, at the head of their valleys, some- times presents us with beautiful cascades. It also forms the chief ingredient in the soil of the island — in wet weather a very adhesive clay. But the limestone dykes are the distinguishing feature of, at least, this portion of Lew Chew. They cross the island in ranges of N. 50° E. and N. G0° E., rising up into peaks and castellated forms, often so much like ruins of ancient buildings as to make a near examination necessary in order to undeceive ourselves. The rock is highly granular, but still has in it, not unfrequent remains of marine animals. Sometimes it is sufficiently compact ; but, though always hard, it is generally so vesicular as, when weather-stained, to have exactly the appearance of lava, for which, indeed, it is often mistaken. Its vesicular character opens it to the action of foreign agencies, and, in consequence, along the sea and bay shores it is often undermined by the waves, or, if harder pebbles find their way there, is by their friction worked into kettle-shaped holes, with ragged, knife-shaped edges between. Where the roads in Lew Chew are paved it is with this vesicular rock ; and the pavement can be exceeded, in discomfort to the traveller, only by the sticky mud, from which it is intended to be a protection. On the second day of our journey (Tuesday) we were, towards noon, travelling on the summit of one of these limestone ridges, with precipitous sides descending on either hand. I was ahead of the party and saw before me, by and by, a something, which I took, at first, to be the natural rock crossing my road ; till, presently, I saw what looked like a window, or some such opening, at its top. A nearer approach showed it, to my great surprise, to be this old deserted castle of Chun-Ching. The builders had taken advantage of a spot where the two perpendicular faces of the ridges approached each other sufficiently near ; and here, on the edges of the natural rock, had erected their walls, giving to the sides of their castle a great additional height ; one end, also, was in part protected by a similar bold face of the rock. The road by which I came was conducted along outside of the main castle, though it was still carried through the fortifications, which it entered and left through gateways in very thick walls. The walls themselves were in the style so com- mon in Lew Chew, called in architecture the Cyclopean style, though the stones employed here are much smaller than their architypes in the old Cyclopean walls of Greece. The builders of Chun-Ching contrived also to give their walls that inward curve which seems to have been the fashion in Lew Chew castellated buildings, and which we see also in the royal castle in Sheudi. Since our return I have learnt, through Dr. Bettelheim, that Chun-Ching was once a royal residence. There were, in early times, seven kingdoms in Lew Chew, each with its royal castle or capitol, and Chun-Ching was one of them. The number was afterwards reduced to three, then to one, as it at present remains. What I have marked as places for burning incense (a, a, &c.) are little oven-like buildings, which are common, also, to their temples and hung-laoas, and which Dr. B. tells me are for 24 J 186 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. burning paper. The Lew Chewans have a regard, somewhat like that of Mohomedans, for any paper with a sacred name upon it ; and lest such may he trodden under foot, and so desecrated, they burn them in the little edifices alluded to. Before dismissing the geology of Lew Chew, I ought to say that, just south of Nacumma, we crossed, along the shore, numerous patches of recently formed rocks. The rolled pebbles of the shore, together with fragments of coral, and anything else that may happen to come in, are agglutinized by carbonate of lime, (probably the washings of coral reefs,) and are formed into a firm compact rock. This rock is only about a foot thick, and lies in table-like fragments upon the sands, where it was formed. I saw a similar recently made rock, of fine sandstone, on the beach, just west of Point de Galle, in Ceylon. The Lew Chew Islands. T Ee Island, *PSoo^ci"^ -. or Su^arloaf '^.'^ r3 ^c/'<ft«6«eJtt' -, IPUntt Harrow Ssly Kamajo'v ". J -tlKjitsm-darln .Wfl / ( /i r ir i- ^ai ./"jTaJi^ni S L A N 1) OF CHKAT M;W CHKW St-rtl^ II. N«i.f Miles lBa'E»»t of Oretuiwi«fc i -A?-' -JJiM i ttfi ? 7; J.' rr jui» .1.; .V> LEW CHEW STEATAGEMS. 187 CHAPTER IX EFFORTS OF AVTHORITIES OF LEW CHEW TO PREVENT A VISIT TO THE PALACE. ALL UNSUCCESSFUL. LANDING FOR THE VISIT. PROCESSION. APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. RECEPTION AT THE PALACE. EMBARRASSMENT OF THE REGENT. ENTER- TAINMENT AT THE regent's HOUSE. SAKI. NEW DISHES. COMMODORE INVITES AUTHORITIES TO A DINNER ON BOARD THE SUSQUEHANNA. GENERAL IMPRESSIONS PRODUCED BY THE VISIT. ESPIONAGE STILL KEPT UP. DAILY EXERCISE OF SAILORS AND MARINES. SETTLEMENT OF ACCOUNTS WITH LEW CHEW AUTHORITIES. MISSISSIPPI AND SUPPLY REMAIN AT LEW CHEW. SUSQUEHANNA AND SARATOGA LEAVE FOR THE BONIN ISLANDS. DEATH OF AN OPIUM SMOKER ON THE PASSAGE. INHUMANITY OF CHINESE. SUNDAY ON BOARD. ARRIVAL AT PORT LLOYD. HE determination of the Commodore to return the visit of the regent, at the palace, and nowhere else, had heen seem- ingly acquiesced in hy the Lew Chew dignitary ; but, in truth, he had hut yielded to a necessity. The Commodore liad power to carry out his determination, and the regent deemed it most prudent to concur, with the semblance of politeness, in that which he coxild not prevent. This, however, did not induce that functionary and his subordinate officers to spare their efforts in the attempt to escape the much dreaded visit to the palace. Accordingly, they resorted to divers devices and stratagems, too clumsy, however, to he deemed either inge- nious or cunning. In the first place, they begged that the Commodore would return the visit at Napha instead of Shui ; then the effort was made to entrap the commander into a meeting with the regent, which would have been considered a return of the latter's visit. In pursuance of this scheme, the mayor of Napha made a great feast, some days before that named by the Commodore for his visit, and invited him to be present, with the intention of having the regent attend and preside. The invitation was politely declined, on the ground that the storeship, Caprice, was about to be dispatched on the appointed day to Shanghai, and the Commodore would necessarily be occupied. When the Lew Chewans found that the Commodore did not attend, they were determined that he should not, at any rate, lose the feast that had been pre- pared for him, and accordingly sent off to the ship numerous dishes of the intended banquet. These, as a matter of courtesy, were allowed to come on board, and very soon the quarter-deck exhibited various preparations of poultry, fish, vegetables, and fruits. The Commodore, how- ever, from considerations of policy, thought it best to be invisible. The next device was to appeal to the humanity of the Commodore, and the request was pre- ferred that he would make his visit to the palace of the prince instead of at the royal residence. 188 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. The reason assigned was, that the queen dowager was sick, and had been for a year, in conse- quence of the shosk received on the visit of a British naval officer, who persisted in entering the royal residenc}, to present a letter from Lord Palmerston to the Lew Chew government; and it was intimated that a repetition of such desecration of the palace would add to the malady of the queen, if, indeed, it did not jjroduce a fatal termination. The Commodore, who did not believe one word of the queen dowager's illness, and who was quite convinced also that all this manoeuvring and trickery were designed merely to satisfy the spies kept about the Lew Chewans by the Japanese government, replied to this affecting appeal, that it was his duty to go where an officer of the Queen of England had been before him to have an audience ; and that, if the queen dowager did not see fit to remove to the palace of her son during his intended visit, he thought that the pageantry, music, &c., attending it (purely peaceful) might divert her mind, and tend rather to amuse her ; while, if she wished, his learned physicians, who would accompany him, would be most happy to exercise their skill for her bene- fit, and assist in restoring her to health. At last, all devices having utterly failed to move the Commodore from liis purpose, the day came which he had designated for his visit to the regent. It was matter of policy to make a show of it, and hence some extra pains were taken to offer an imposing spectacle. The day opened cloudily with a brisk wind stirring, and did not at first seem to promise a propitious season ; but after a morning shower the sky came out bright and blue, and until evening the aspect of nature was as fresh and beautiful as could have been desired. The hour of departure had been fixed at 9 o'clock. Presently the signal was made from the flag-ship, and all the boats of the other ships pushed off at the same time, and as they pulled to the land presented a very lively appearance. The point selected for landing was the little village of Tumai, about two miles from the palace of Shui. After all the other boats had gone^ the Commodore set out in his barge, and on his arrival the marines were found, under arms, and in line, under a grove of trees by the road-side, near the landing. Groups of officers in uniform were gathered in little knots under the shade of the trees; the boats' crews rested on their oars, looking with interest on the proceedings, while the natives to the number of hundreds (many of them of the better class) stood around, evidently not a little moved and excited by the scene before them. The Commodore, with the captain of the fleet and Commanders Buchanan, Lee, and Walker, then passed down the line of the marines and artillerymen, when the procession was immediately formed. First came two field-pieces, under the command of Lieutenant Bent, each having above it the American ensign, and immediately preceded by the master of the Susquehanna, (Mr. Bennett,) with Mr. Williams and Dr. Bettelheim, the interpreters. Next followed the band of the Mississippi with a company of marines, under command of Major Zeilin. The Commodore followed then in a sedan chair, which had been manufactured for the nonce, by the carpenter on board the ship. It was emphatically a dignified vehicle, as became the occasion, large and stately, deeply indebted to paint and putty, not quite as polished as a turnout from Newark or Longacre, but, on the whole, decidedly a feature in the procession, though its hangings of red and blue were not of the finest. At all events, it was the most imposing sedan the Lew Chewans ever saw. It was borne by eight Chinese coolies, four relieving each other alternately. On each side of it marched a marine as body guard, while a handsome boy had been selected as a page, who, with a Chinese steward, were the immediate personal attendants. APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 189 Captain Adams, Lieutenant Contee, and Mr. Perry, followed the sedan. Next appeared six coolies bearing the presents designed for the prince and qneen dowager, and guarded by a file of marines. Then came the officers of the expedition, headed by Captains Buchanan, Lee, and Sinclair, followed by their servants. Next were the band of the Susquehanna, and a company of marines closed the procession, wliich in numbers amounted to some two hundred or more. The whole procession was well arranged and picturesque in effect; while the beauty of the day, the verdure of the hills and fields, and the cheerful music of the bands gave life and spirit to the occasion. The natives clustered thickly on the sides of the road to gaze on the glittering novelty, while crowds of tliem hung in the rear of the cortege. Tliey did not manifest the smallest apprehension, notwitlistanding the presence of tlie marines under arms, and evidently were pleasantly excited by the spectacle before them. When the procession passed through any narrow lane the natives nearest to them knelt, the rank behind stooped down^ and the rear remained erect, that all might have an opportunity of seeing. Very soon the procession emerged from the village, and came out upon the open undi;lating country south of Sheudi. The picture here was perfect. The fields of upland rice were gracefully bending like waves before the wind ; the groves and hill sides were dark with the deep-green foliage, so suggestive of cool shady retreats, while, in the distance, the roof-tops of Sheudi, glittering in the sun, revealed, here and there, a spot of dazzling brightness amid the thick leafy covering of the trees in which the city was embosomed. LTnder clumps of the Lew Chew pine the pleased natives were gathered in groups, while others might be seen running along the ridges that divided the rice fields, that they might head the procession, and tlius gain another view; wliile over all the music from the bands floated far around, and added to the pleasurable excitement of the march. As the pro- cession ascended the hill of Shui the officers and men, who had been so long confined to the monotony of ship-board life, gazed around with delight, perfectly charmed with the rich culti- vated landscape that stretched away to the southward and westward. The officer designated to receive the Commodore at the landing, and conduct him to the capital, was the Pe-ching who had been, in the previous week, with the exploring party into the interior. Wlien the procession arrived at the gate of Shui, it was met by a crowd of native dignitaries, with their attendants, all in their best robes of grass cloth, and with the red and yellow hatchee- matchees, or peculiar Lew Chew cap, on their heads. The old regent and his three venerable coadjutors here appeared, and after salutations, turned and accompanied the procession into the city. It passed on without halting, through the central arch, and marched up the principal street. A large train of attendants was in the retinue of the regent and chiefs ; some carried umbrellas, others bore cliow-choio , or refreshment boxes, cases for cups, and other articles. There was an inscription in Chinese characters over the central arch, which was translated by Mr. Williams to signify "The place of authority;" under this arch the common people were not allowed to pass. The main street showed, on either side, high walls, with occasional alleys branching from it on both sides. The native officers kept the streets clear of spectators, except at one spot, where an alley branched off to the left. Here was a dense crowd, and here also was exhibited the final device to prevent the Commodore from going to the palace. The regent's own residence was not far from the entrance of the street thus crowded, and here that dignitary requested, through the interpreter, that the procession should at once go to his house and partake of the refreshments he had provided. Mr. Williams, who saw at once the object of the request, paid no attention 190 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. to it, but marclied straight on to the palace gate. It was obvious that the regent had anticipated that his stratagem would prove successful, for the gate of the palace was closed. A messenger, however, was dispatched, at full speed, to cause it to be opened, and make preparations for the Commodore's reception. On arriving at the entrance, the artillery and marines were drawn up in line, and the Commodore and his suite walked past them into the castle or palace; the troops presented arms, the ensigns were lowered, and the band plaj-ed "Hail Columbia." On entering the first gateway, a second wall and portal were seen above, (for the edifice stood on a cliff or elevation of rock, which formed, indeed, part of its foundation,) and this second gateway formed the entrance to the outer court of the palace, which crowned the height. This court was surrounded by houses, which seemed to be designed for servants and others belonging to the royal household. On the eastern side, however, was another gateway, resembling the Chinese portals of honor. This consisted of hco arches, and the Commodore was conducted, as a mark of honor and respect due to his rank, through that on the right hand, into what appeared to be the central court of the palace. It was about eighty feet square, with very plain wooden buildings, of one story only, on its sides, and was paved with gravel and large tiles, arranged in alternate lozenges. The hall of reception was on the north side. All the other buildino's, on the other sides, were protected by screens from the view of those in the court. The Commodore was conducted into the hall of audience, and placed in a chair at the head of the room, on the right hand side; the officers followed, and were ranged in chairs on a single line, next to the Commodore, according to rank. These chairs were of some dark wood, lacquered, and were like our camp stools. There was also a double line of members of the Commodore's retinue across the bottom of the room. On the left side of the apartment sat the reo-ent, with his three principal councillors, and a double rank of attendants stood behind them. The interpreters stood at the head of the room, near the Commodore, but between him and the reo-ent All having been thus accommodated, time was afforded for looking around. On the wall was a large red tablet, inscribed with Chinese characters, which signify, in English, "The elevated inclosure of fragrant festivities;" an inscription, by the way, which seems more appro- priate to a place of feasting than to a hall of diplomacy or state receptions, where there is ordinarily little fragrance and less festivity. The queen dowager, who had been so pathetically represented as being sick, did not, of course, make her appearance; nor did the boy prince, for whom the regent governed. After mutual salutations, tables were brought, and cups of very weak tea were presented to the guests. Smoking boxes were also distributed around the room, and twists of very tough ginger- bread were placed on the table. In short, it was obvious that the visit at the palace was unexpected ; it had been supposed, probably, that the stratagem of the regent to prevent it, by taking the Commodore to his own house, would succeed ; and, consequently, no preparations had been made for the reception of the company at the palace. Presently the Commodore invited the regent and his three colleagues to visit him on board the Susquehanna. He stated that he intended leaving Napha in a day or two, but that, after ten days, he should return again, and would receive them at any time they might choose to appoint, either before his departure or after his return. They replied that they would leave the time of the visit to be named by the Commodore, and he stated that he would prefer it should be made after his return. To this they assented with seeming satisfaction. The next step in the ceremonies consisted in the regent's taking several large red cards, similar to those used on state occasions in China, when he ENTERTAINMENT AT THE REGENT 's HOUSE. 191 and his three companions rose, advanced a few steps, and hewed profoundly. The Commodore and all the officers rose and howed in return, hut without precisely understanding what the homage of the Lew Chewans particularly meant ; they wei'e determined, however, not to he outdone in the outward symbols of civility. The Commodore then tendered to the regent such articles as he might need or desired to possess, provided he had them on hoard any of the ships, adding that it would give him pleasure to supply them. Hereupon, the four dignitaries rose again, advanced, and howed as hefore. The interview was becoming rather uninteresting, and it was quite plain that the magnates of Lew Chew were, from some cause or other, not quite at their ease. After about an hour the regent rose and proposed that the Commodore should visit him now, at his own house. This was alike intelligible and agreeable, and the procession was formed and marched to the street where it had been invited to enter on its way to the palace. The house of the regent was spacious, consisting of a central hall, with wings open to the court-yard, from which it was separated by a narrow verandah only. The floor was covered with fine matting. It was at once apparent that most hospitable preparations had here been made for the entertain- ment of the American visitors. Four tables were set in the central apartment, and three in each of the wings, and these were covered with a most bountiful collation. Immediately on entering the guests were desired to seat themselves, the Commodore, with Captains Buchanan and Adams, occupying the highest table on the right hand, and the regent and his associates the one opposite on the left. A pair of chop-sticks was placed at each corner of every table ; in the centre was an earthen pot filled with saJcee, (the intoxicating drink made by the Lew Chewans,) surrounded with four acorn cups, four large, coarse China cups, with clumsy spoons of the same material, and four teacups. On each table were dishes to the number of some twenty, of various sizes and shapes, and the exact basis of some of which no American knoweth to this day; possibly it was pig. Of the dishes, however, which were familiar to western appre- hension there were sliced boiled eggs, which had been dyed crimson, fish made into rolls and boiled in fat, pieces of cold baked fish, slices of hog's liver, sugar candy, cucumbers, mustard, salted raddish tops, and fragments of lean pork, fried. Cups of tea were first handed round ; these were followed by very small cups of sakee, which had the taste of French liqueur. Small bamboo sticks, sharpened at one end, and which some of the guests mistook for toothpicks, were furnished, to be used as forks in taking balls of meat and dough from the soup, which made the first course. Soup constituted also the next seven courses of the twelve, whereof the repast consisted. The other four were gingerbread, salad made of bean sprouts and young onion tops, a basket of what appeared to be some dark red fruit, but proved to be artificial balls composed of a thin dough rind covering a sugary pulp, and a delicious mixture compounded of beaten eggs and a slender white root with an aromatic taste. Novel as was this hill of fare, the gentlemen of the expedition endeavored, with true courtesy, to do honor to the repast, and at the end of the twelfth course respectfully took leave, though they were assured there were twelve more to come. The number of the courses indicated the desire to do our countrymen a double share of honor, inasmuch as twelve is the prescribed number for a royal entertainment. The Lew Chewans, far removed as they are from the conventionalities of western civilization, seemed, notwithstanding, to understand very well the habit of drinking toasts and giving sentiments, and, indeed, were ready enough to drink on private account, without any stately formality, as the sakee circulated freely during the eight courses of soup. 192 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. When the Commodore supposed the solids were about to appear, he rose and proposed as a toast the health of the queen mother and the young viceroy, adding, "Prosperity to the Lew Chewans, and may they and the Americans always be friends." This, having been translated to the regent, appeared greatly to gratify him, and was drunk standing, with Lew Chew honors, which consist of draining the small cup of sakee, holding a teasjDoon full, at one gulp, and turning the vessel bottom upward. The Commodore afterward proposed the health of the regent and his associates, which the latter returned by proposing the health of the Commodore and the ofiScers of the squadron. By this time the embarrassment and anxious looks of the Japanese officials had entirely vanished ; from what cavise they had proceeded our officers could not learn, but most probably from the consciousness that the}' were under espionage, and that all they said or did would be reported to those above them. The entertainment, however, proceeded and terminated with the best possible feeling on both sides. The interpreter of the regent was a young native, named Ichirazichi, who had been educated at Pekin, where he remained three years. He could speak a little English, but the Chinese was the language of communication. This youth had some knowledge both of the LTnited States history and geography. He was not unacquainted with the character and conduct of Wash- ington, and called him " a very great mandarin." Where is it that the honored name of the Father of our country, this man for all time, this man, whose peerless pi:rity is the proud heritao'e of a common humanity the world over, has not reached? It is heard in the Arab tent, and in the Chinese village, under the shades of Lew Chew, and in the cities of Japan, in southern Asia, and on the shores of the Arctic ; all western Christendom knows it, all honors it. At leno-th the feast was over, and the American guests took their departure, the procession formino" ia the same order as before. The subordinate Japanese officials escorted it to the gate, and the old Pe-ching again took his station in advance. On starting down the hill, four little ponies, which had gone up without finding riders, were now led by the grooms to the rear of the procession, and some of the younger officers determined to try their mettle in a ride down. They were very small animals, of bay color, but exceedingly spirited; and, kicking and pluno'ing with untiring vivacity, and somewhat of temper, treated, at first, with sublime contempt all efibrts to reduce them to a gravity befitting the occasion, and indignantly resisted every attempt to induce them, with the rational sobriety of discreet brutes, to take their places in the rear, and march understandingly, as became them. Like ill-bred ponies, as they were, they kicked up their heels, and endeavored to do much as they jiileased. This, however, merely afforded more fun to the officers than if the wiry little creatures had behaved themselves discreetly as part of the American procession. The descent of the hill was rather warm, as it was not far from noon, and the sun shone full in the faces of the procession; but, on reaching the wooded slopes, it was met by the grateful sea-breeze, and the boats were seen quietly resting on the waters of the bay, while their crews were scattered in groups under the trees, watching the coming on of the procession, and waiting to know whether due honor had been shown to the United States in the person of their "Old Commodore." Each boat had the American colors flying, and Jack was made happy by the assurance that all possible respect had been paid to his flag. By half-past two, the whole procession was again on board the ships, without any accident or untoward incident having occurred to mar either the pleasure or success of the trip ; and thus ended the grand official visit to the palace. It was a judicious determination on the part of the Commodore to make it; COUIT INTERPRETER SHIN Lew Chew. GENERAL IMPRESSIONS PRODUCED BY THE VISIT. 193 and, having announced such determination to the Lew Chewans, it was especially wise to carry it through to the letter. The moral influence produced hy such a steadfast adherence to his avowed purposes very soon exhibited itself. It was part of the Commodore's deliberately formed plan, in all his intercourse with these orientals, to consider carefully before he announced his resolution to do any act; but, having announced it, he soon taught them to know tliat he would do jirecisely what he had said he would. To this single circumstance much of liis success is to be attributed. He never deceived tliem l)y anj^ falsehood, nor ever gave them reason to suppose that his purposes could l)e altered by their lies and stratagems. They, of course, saw at once that he was resolute, and that it was dangerous to trifle with him. His whole diplomatic jiolicy was simply to stick to the truth in everything — to mean just what he said, and do just what he promised. Of course, it triumphed over a system which admitted of no truth, but for purposes of decejition. Several little circumstances connected with the excursion attracted the notice of the Commo- dore, and, as illustrative of maimers and customs, deserve a j^assing notice. The first was the exceeding cleanliness of the Lew Chewans, and their striking contrast to the Chinese in this particular. The Commodore, speaking of Shui, says: "Never have I seen a city or town exhibiting a greater degree of cleanliness; not a particle of dirt, or even dust, could be seen, so different is it from the filthiness of all Chinese cities." The road over which the procession passed was remarkably well constructed. It was elabor- ately paved with coral rock, very neatlj^ fitted together, and the upjier surface rendered smooth, either by artificial means or the constant attrition of travel. The peasantry who hung upon the edges of the procession seemed to be of the lowest orders seen in Lew Chew, and exhibited a squalid and rather miserable appearance ; many of them were naked, with the exception of a small piece of cloth about the loins ; and among the thousands of these people attracted by the novelty of the spectacle, singular as it may appear, not a woman was to be seen. The great population of the island may, therefore, fairly be inferred from the large multitudes assembled, composed of but one half of the common people. These men wlio were seen probably comi^ose the laboring class^, receiving for their daily toil scanty food and harsh treatment. The idlers are the priests, and the hordes of spies and policemen who throng the highways, and who are watching everything by day and night. On the whole, the Commodore was pleased with the suavity and politeness of the higher classes, and with the seeming cordiality of the hospitality which had been shown him ; if the Lew Chewans were not sincere they were, at least, very good actors. As to the culinary skill that had been employed in preparing the regent's feast, there were certainly dishes of the compo- sition of which the guests were ignorant, but still they were, in general, savory and very good ; much more so than those presented by Chinese cookery. Whenever a fresh course was brought in at the regent's feast^ the host and his brother dignitaries rose and emptied their small cups of sakee to the health of the guests ; and the regent always gave a signal to the Commodore when to commence on a new course. At the recejition in the palace, though the queen did not appear, yet the Commodore was quite satisfied that the story he had been told about her desperate illness, by the regent, was all fiction ; and, in fact, if she were not, as some suspected, a myth, he thought it not improbable that she and her attendant ladies were behind the screen looking through some crevice at the western strangers, possibly not a little amused at the novel show. At any rate, he was so 25 J 194 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. certain that she would survive his visit that he caused to he sent to the palace a present for her of a handsome mirror, and a quantity of French perfumery ; and left there also the gifts which he designed for the prince, the regent, the mayor of Napha, and other dignitaries. The expected ahsence from the island, to which the Commodore had alluded on his visit to the palace, was to be occasioned by an intended examination of the Bonin Islands, a group lying to the eastward, in tlie neighborhood of 141° of longitude, and presenting some points of interest for investigation. Before our departure for tliese islands, however, the story of which will he told in its place, we must finish the narrative of events on this the first visit to Lew Chew. The old Pe-ching, who received the Commodore on his landing to go to Shui, was, as we have already mentioned, the same that with such exemplary patience and good nature accompanied (as chief spy, doubtless) the exploring party in their tedious excursion of a week over tlie island. Mr. Jones, the chaplain, accompanied by Mr. Taylor and Mr. Heine, having procured presents for the old man by the Commodore's order, and added thereto some pieces of Canton silk handkerchiefs of their own, went on shore and met the Pe-ching at Dr. Bettelheim's, when matters were satisfactorily adjusted. But on this visits as on all previous ones, the system of incessant watching was kept up. Five individuals, in gray dresses, followed the American gentlemen, and sent forward a scout to warn the people to keep out of the way^ and they accordingly fled in all directions on the approach of the strangers. There seemed to be special apprehension of their women being seen ; but in the few instances when accidentally they became visible, they were found to be strikingly unhandsome. During the period of stay at Lew Chew all military and naval drills and exercises were regularly performed daily, and the harbor of Napha was made lively, on two days, by a general boat inspection. Seventeen boats, fully manned and equipped, and five of them carrying twelve and twenty-four pounders, drew up oif the Susquehanna, and were reviewed by the fleet officers. It was a fine spectacle, and was gazed on with lively interest by the Lew Chewans. They had never seen any thing of the kind before within their quiet harbor. The pursers were sent on shore, before the squadron's departure, to settle accounts with the treasurers of the island, and pay for such supplies as had been furnished. By the Commodore's order Lieutenant Contee and Mr. Williams, the interpreter, accompanied them, carrying a number of presents, chiefly American cotton goods. According to their past usage the Lew Chewans demurred to receiving any compensation for supplies ; but they were given to under- stand that this could not possibly be allowed; and that American ships of war always paid the people of all nations from whom they received supplies. After some persuasion they induced the native treasurers to take compensation for all that had been furnished to the ships, and also to receive the presents. The Commodore thought it was a point gained of some importance, that they had thus, for the first time, as it is believed, broke through their ancient custom of not receiving pay for provisions furnished to vessels. Henceforth visitors and their hosts will stand on terms of equality, and no superiority can be claimed, nor any exclusive policy practised on the ground of favors done to strangers. The daguerreotypists, Messrs. Brown and Draper, were settled on shore in a house outside of the village of Tumai, and some of the embellishments of this volume are illustrative of the results of their very useful labors. Mr. Scott, of the Saratoga, (an invalid,) occupied another house, and enjoyed an agreeable intercourse with the natives, finding no difiiculty in procuring from them abundant supplies. A tide-staff was planted, and Midshipman Boardman, with two DEATH OF AN OPIUM SMOKER. 195 men, were encamped under a tent near it to make regular observations. The rise and fall of the tide during the stay of the vessels had averaged about six feet. All arrangements having been finally made for a temporary absence, on the morning of the 9th of June the Susquehanna got under way for the Bonin Islands, having the Saratoga in tow. The Mississippi and Supply were left at Napha, and the Commodore enjoined on Commander Lee, the senior officer, to cultivate the most friendly relations with the islanders, exer- cising all possible forbearance and kindness in his intercourse with the authorities and people, and to be careful to permit none but the most orderly persons to go on shore, lest some untoward event should mar the harmony then happily subsisting. Passing through the southern channel the Susquehanna rounded Abbey Point, and took a Bouthern course around the extremity of the island. This end of the island, though hilly and picturesque, did not appear to be either so fertile or so well cultivated as the eastern and western shores. In the course of the afternoon Lew Chew sank beneath the horizon, and the ship held on her course, east by north, at the rate of eight knots an hour. At first she had a light wind from the southwest, which soon died away ; but presently she came within the influ- ence of the monsoon, which filled her sails; the drawing sails of both ships were set, and though the steamer had the Saratoga in tow, and used but three of her boilers, she made nine and a half knots. The southwest monsoon still continuing, good progress was made, notwithstanding a strong current from the eastward ; and nothing occurred to interrupt the uniformity of sea life on board, save an event which interrupts the current of life itself alike on ship and shore. There was a death on board the Susquehanna. When Mr. Williams came from China to join the squadron, at Lew Chew, as interpreter, he brought with him an old Chinaman who had been his teacher, and who, it was supposed, might be useful in future operations ; but it was very soon apparent that the old man's race was nearly run. He was a victim to the habit of opium smoking, which he was attempting to abandon. The consequences of this effort, and the eifects of sea sickness on board the Saratoga, jirostrated him so completely that no medicines had any effect, and he sank into a state of nervelessness and emaciation painful to look upon. For a week before his death his condition had been most pitiable : every joint in his skeleton frame seemed to be in perpetual motion ; his face was a ghastly yellow ; his cheeks sunken on the bones; the eyes wild and glassy; and his mind in a state of semi-madness. Death, when it came, was a relief to the poor old man, as well as to those who saw him die. On the day after his decease the ship presented that striking picture, a funeral at sea. The Commodore and other officers stood around, with a large part of the crew, while the chaplain committed his body to the deep until the day come when "the earth and the sea shall give up their dead." A more frightful example of the terrible effects of the use of opium it would be difficult to find. It exceeded in horror all the loathsome and repulsive results of the use of intoxicatino- drinks. Delirium tremens is horrible enough, but the last scene of this old opium smoker was more horrible still. There was something revolting also in the conduct of the Chinese on board the ship. They manifested not the least sympathy with their dying countryman. For a day or two before he died, not one of them, with the exception of one of the Commodore's servants would go near him; and on the last night of his life, when two of the deck coolies had been ordered by the captain to remain in the room, and were obliged to obey, they squatted down in the corner most remote from him, and never once approached him. Some of the quartermasters gave him what he needed, and were with him when he died. 196 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. During the run to tlie Bonin Islands, the crews were occasionally heat to quarters hy way of exercise, and on one occasion after dark. Night signals were made to the Saratoga hy means of lanterns and hlue lights, and to those who were not " old salts" enough to have seen such sights hefore, the effect was alike novel and exciting. The blue lights illuminating the hroad sails, at their full tension under the influence of the monsoon, the men at their several stations, all brought out in the glare of an artificial light, which, though bright as daylight, yet was of unearthly aspect, gave to the scene somewhat of a startling effect^ and forcibly impressed the imagination with the peculiar features of a night engagement. The next morning after this exhibition (Sunday) was fresh and cool, and it was pleasant, as the vessels held on their pros- perous way over a smooth sea, to see the crews all newly washed, clean, and dressed in their suits of snowy duck with broad blue collars, while everything about the vessel wore a trim, holiday air, and those not on duty were waiting for five bells to gather around the cbaijlain's temporary pulpit — the capstan — and join in the services of the day, so peculiarly appropriate from men "who go down to the sea in ships, and whose path is in the great waters." The favoring circumstances all continuing, on the 14th of June, at 10 a. m., the ships found them- selves off the entrance of Port Lloyd, on Peel Island, one of the Bonins. The Saratoga had been previously cast off, and was now ordered to go ahead. Two vessels, apparently whalers, hove in sight, one on either quarter. The one to the northward showed American colors, and began to beat down toward the Susquehanna, anxious probably to know the meaning of such a strange event as the appearance of one of her country's large armed steamers in that remote spot. The three islands called Peel, Buckland, and Stapleton, constitute the principal part of that group, and lie close together. They are high, bold, and rocky, and, though not so beautiful and green as Lew Chew, are yet exceedingly picturesque. Pilots put off from th < island to both ships, and soon both were safely anchored in the harbor of Port Lloyd, liaiiitjoo Village, Lew Chew. a°East ofGrccnwich OFTHE BONINGROUPofISLANDS. .5 i i y Stapleton I. 27° BOM IN ^; p,a^^;. Auckland I. Port Lit jcl PEELI. m FlttonRay 27' Z>evilj/iocti,- Net4^ort Plymouth ^ ^( Hillsborough I. DSILAMDS PerryI.^) ^**' Kelly I. 'I'll! 50' >*.CRW HX J42 I I I I I I I SITUATION OF THE BONIN ISLANDS. 197 CHAP TEE X. SITrATION OF BONIN ISLANDS.— FIRST DISCOVERY OF THEM. — EUROPEANS HAVE NO CLAIM AS THE DISCOVERERS. — MIXED CHARACTER OF PRESENT SETTLERS. EXTERNAL APPEARANCE OF PEEL ISLAND. GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. HARBOR OP PORT LLOTD. PRODUCTIONS OF THE ISLAND, ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE. RESORT OF WHALERS. CONDITION OF PRESENT INHABITANTS. COMMODORE CADSES THE ISLAND TO BE E.XPLORED. REPORTS OP EXPLORING PARTIES. KANAKAS. EXAMINATION OF STAPLETON ISLAND, AND REPORT THEREON. SURVEY OF HARBOR OF PORT LLOYD. LAND PURCHASED FOR A COAL DEPOT. DEPARTURE FROM BONIN ISLANDS ON THE RETURN TO LEW CHEW. DISAPPOINTMENT ISLAND- ITS TRUE POSITION. BORODINOS.— ARRIVAL AT NAPHA. HE BoBin Islands, lying in tlie Japanese sea, extend in a ^^ direction nearly north and soutli, between the latitudes of ^ 26° 30' and 27° 45' north, the centre line of the group being J in longitude about 142° 15' east. The islands were visited ft, by Captain Beechey in 1827, and, with the proverbial modesty "^^ ^ and justice of English surveyors, named by him, as if they had been then first observed. The northern cluster he called Parry's Group; the middle cluster, consisting of three larger ^^^^ islands, respectively Peel, Buckland, and Stapleton; and the i= southern cluster was named by him Bailey's, utterly regardless ^p of the fact thus stated by himself: "The southern cluster is that on which a whale ship, commanded by a Mr. Coffin, anchored in 1823, who was first to communicate its position to this country, and who bestowed his name upon the port. As the cluster was, however, left without any distinguishing appellation, I named it after Francis Bailey, esq., late President of the Astronomical Society." * To the principal port of Peel I.sland he gave the name of Port Lloyd. This was a pretty liberal distribution of honors by an accidental visitor in 1827, to a group of islands that had been known, and of which we have authentic accounts as early as the seventeenth century. According to Kasmpfer, these islands were known to the Japanese at a period as far back as 1675, and were described by them under the name of Buna Sima, signifying an island without people. According to the account of this traveller, whose words we quote, the Japanese accidentally, about the year 1675, discovered a very large island, one of their Findlay's Directory of the Pacific Ocean. 198 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. barques having been forced, in a storm, from the island Fatscyo, from which place they computed it to be three hundred Japanese miles distant, toward the east. They met with no inhabitants, but found it to be a very pleasant and fruitful country, well supplied with fresh water, and fiirnished w^th plenty of plants and trees, particularly the arrack tree, which, however, might give room to the conjecture that the island lay rather to the south of Japan than to the east, as these trees grow only in hot countries. The Japanese marked it as an uninhabited place, but they found upon its shores an incredible quantity of fish and crabs, ''some of which were from four to six feet long." The description of Ktempfer, as well as that of an original Japanese writer, given in the note below, was found by Commodore Perry to correspond exactly with the present appearance of the island. The arrack, or areca tree, alluded to in the extract, is found upon Peel Island.* * Extract from Klaprotli's translation of San Kokp Tsoir Ran To Sits. " The original name of these islands is O-gasa-wara-sima, but they are commonly called Mon-nin-sima, (in Chinese, Wu-jin- ton,) or the islands without people, and this is the name which I have adopted in my work. That of O-gasa-wSra-sima, or the O-gasa-wara islands, was given to them afler the navigator who first visited them, and who prepared a map of them. In the same manner has the southern part of the New World been called Magalania, (Magellan,) who first discovered it some two hundred j'ears since. " The Bonin islands are found 270 ri to the southeasterly of the province of Idsu. From Simoda, in that principality, it is 13 ri to the island of Myake; from thence to Sin-sima or New island, seven ri; from Sin-sima to Mikoura, five ri; from thence to Fatsicio or Fatiho, (Fatsisio,) 41 ri; and, lastly, from this to the most northern of the uninhabited islands, it is reckoned to be 180 ri; and to the most southerly 200 ri. " This archipelago lies in the 27th degree of north latitude. The climate is warm, and makes the valleys lying between the high mountains, watered by rivulets, to be very fertile, so that they produce beans, wheat, millet, grain of all kinds, and sugar cane. The tree called Nankin, faze or tallow tree (Stillingia sebifera) grows there, and likewise the wax tree. The fishery is good, and might be made very productive. " Many plants and trees grow in these islands, but there are very few quadrupeds. There are trees so large that a man can- not embrace them with his arms, and which are frequently thirty Chinese fathoms in height, (or 240 feet.) Their wood is hard and beautiful. There are also some very high trees resembling tlie siou-ro-tsoung-liu, or chamarops excelsa, cocoa nuts, areca palms, that tree whose nuts are called pe-eouan-tsy in Chinese, the katsirau, the red sandal wood, the tou-mou, the camphor, tub figs of the mountains, a high tree whose leaves resemble those of the ground ivy, the cinnamon tree, mulberry, and some others. " Among the plants the smilax China, (or China root,) called san-ke-rei, the to-ke, a medicinal herb called assa-ghion-keva, and others are to be reckoned. " Among birds there are different species of parokeets, cormorants, partridges, and some resembling white sea-mews, but more than three feet long. All these birds have so little wildness that they can be taken with the hand. " The chief productions of the mineral kingdom in this archipelago are alum, green vitriol, stones of different colors, petri- factions, &c. "Whales are found in the sea, also huge crawfish, enormous shells, and echini, which are called 'gall of the sea.' The ocean here is unusually rich in various products. "]n the third year of the reign Ghen-Fo, (1675,) Simaye Sagheraon, Biso Saghemon, and Simaye Dairo Saghemon, three inhabitants of Nagasaki, took a sea voyage to the principality of Idsu. They were embarked in a large junk, built by a skillful Chinese carpenter. These three men were well acquainted with astronomy and geograph}', and accompanied by Fatobe, tlie chief sliip-carpenter of the port of Yedo, who dwelt in the lane of nets. The vessel was xuanaged by thirty sailors. Having obtained a passport from the imperial marine, tliey left the harbor of Simoda, the 5th day of tiie 4th moon, and steered for the island of Fatsio. From thence they sailed towards the southeast and discovered a group of eighty islands. They drew up a map and an e.\act account of them, in which are some curious details respecting the situation, climate, and productions of this archipelago. They returned the 20th day of the 6th moon, in the same year, to Simoda, where Simaye published an account of his voyage. "It is singular that this writer makes no mention of the swift current, kuro-se-gaw, which is experienced between the islands of Mikura and Fatsio. Its breadth exceeds twenty matze, (about half a ri,)and it flows with great swiftness from east to west,(o) about one hundred ri. This omission would be inexplicable if this current was not much less rapid in summer and autumn than it is in winter and spring. Simaye, in his passage to the Bonin islands, passed it in the first part of the intercalary month, which succeeds the fourth moon ; on his return, the latter part of the sixth moon, he should have found the currents less rapid, and thus his attention was not called to this dangerous passage." " The largest of the eighty islands is fifteen ri in circuit, and thus is a little less than Iki island in size. Another is ten ri in circumference, and about the size of Amakusa island. Besides these two there are eight others which are from two to six and (ri) The writer In deecrtbing the direction of the omTent Ii miBtalcen. FIRST DISCOVERY OF BONIN ISLANDS. 199 The green turtles which abound in the island were probably mistaken for crabs, which may account for the gigantic size attributed by Kajmpfer to these animals. Other accounts give a much earlier date for the discovery by the Japanese than that of 1675, stated by the authority just quoted. At any rate, the English have not a particle of claim to priority of discovery. In illustration of the discovery of the Bonins by the accidental visit of a Japanese junk, it may be stated that the Commodore was informed by Mr. Savory, an American resident, that a Japanese vessel of about forty tons burden came into Port Lloyd thirteen years before, having been driven by stress of weather from the coast of Japan. After remaining during the winter she sailed on her return home in the spring, and, as she had brought with her nothing but a small supply of dried fish, was jsrovided gratuitously by the settlers with provisions. On another occasion, some eight years subsequently, a French ship, cruizing off Stapleton island, discovered a fire ashore, and on sending a boat to the spot found the wreck of a Japanese junk and five of its crew, the only survivors, in a most heljiless plight. They were then taken on board and carried to Port Lloyd^ and thence subsequently removed by the humane Frenchmen with the intention of landing them on one of the Japanese islands. In confirmation of this statement we have the fact that a jjarty of ofiicers from the Susquehanna, on a visit to Stajileton Island, accidentally saw the wreck of this same vessel. The remains of the junk were found in a little bay where they landed, the wreck being still partially kept together by large nails of copper and portions of sheets of this metal. From these materials and other indications;, it was inferred that it was a Japanese junk, and as the edges of the planks were but little rubbed or decayed, it was concluded that the wreck could not be very old. Captain Coffin, whose nationality is not mentioned, but who, from his name, was probably an American, and if so, doubtless from Nantucket, visited and gave his name to that part of the group so singularly appropriated and modestly christened by Beechey as the Bailey Islands. They are spoken of by the inhabitants as the southern islands, and were always regarded by them as belonging to the Benin group. They are about twenty miles to the south of Port Lloyd. It was not until 1827 that Captain Beechey, commanding the English surveying vessel, the Blossom, visited the islands, and taking formal possession in the name of the British king, gave English titles to them. The inhabitants j)ractically disown the paternity of the English sovereign, and do not recognize the names given in his self-assumed sponsorship by the English captain. For example, the very dignified appellations of Buckland and Stapleton, with which Beechey has honored two islands of the northern group, are quite ignored by the inhabitants, who speak of these seven ri around. These ten islands have flat plateaux which could be made habitable, and where grain would grow very well. The climate is warm and favorable to cultivation, as one might infer from their geographical position. They afford various valu- able productions. The remaining seventy islets are only mere steep rocks, and produce nothing." " A colony of condemned criminals has been sent to these islands, there to labor ; they have tilled the earth and planted some patches. They are collected in villages, and have brought together the same things found in other provinces of the empire. One can visit these islands, and bring back its products in the same year. In this way a trade would easily spring up, and the benefit to be drawn from it would be considerable. This must be plain to all." " In the reign .\u-Yei (from 1771 to 1780) I was sent on a commission into the province of Fisen, where I became acquainted with a Dutchman named Aarend Werle Veit, who showed me a geography, in which mention was made of some islands Ivin" 200 ri to the southeast of Japan, called Woest eiland by the author. The word ]foest means desert, and eiland (or yeirand, as the original reads) island. He remarks, that these islands are not inhabited, but that many sorts of herbs and trees are found there. The Japanese miglit establish a colony on one of these islands on which grain and other productions would thrive. • In spite of the length of the voyage thither, the establishment would be useful to them for these purposes. The Dutch company would derive very little advantage from the possession of these islands, they being too small and too remote for their use." " I have thought proper to repeat these words, which deserve to be borne in mind, and withthera 1 bring to a conclusion all that I have to say respecting the Benin Islands." 200 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. places respectively as Goat and Hog islands. When the English visited and took possession of the Bonins, the date of the visit and the act of approjjriation were duly engraved upon a copper plate which was nailed to a tree, but the plate and the tree are no longer there, and the only evidence of British possession is the occasional hoisting of the English flag on one of the neighboring hills, a duty that was originally delegated to a wandering Englishman who chanced to be on the spot. It is now considered merely a signal to be hoisted on the arrival of a vessel. No government is recognized by the inhabitants, who declare that they have no need of any foreign control, as they can take good care of themselves. In the year following the visit of Captain Beechey, a Captain Lutke of the Kussian navy arrived and went through very much the same ceremony of taking jJossession and of otherwise aj)proj)riating as his English predecessor. It is quite clear that the Japanese were the first discoverers of these islands. They probably settled and then subsequently abandoned them. It is possible that the early Spanish, Portuguese, and Dutch navigators may have been acquainted with the Bonins, and in later years they have been visited occasionally by the Americans, English, and Russians. The fact of a Spanish visit would seem to be proved by the name of Arzobispo or Archbishop, by which the islands are sometimes distinguished. One of the inhabitants reported that he recollected, on his arrival on the spot, that there was a board on a tree which recorded the first Russian visit. Neither of the European nations have as yet made any attempt at colonization. In 1830, several Americans and Europeans came to the Bonins from the Sandwich Islands, accompanied by various natives — men and women — of that country. The leaders of this adventure were five men, two originally from the United States — Nathaniel Savory and Aldin B. Chapin, of Massachusetts — one from England of the name of Richard Mildtchamp, one Charles Johnson, of Denmark, and the fifth a Genoese known as Mattheo Mazara. The only one of these remaining on the island during the visit of Commodore Perry was Nathaniel Savory, an American. Mildtchamp still survives, but has taken up his residence at Guam, one of the Ladrone islands. The Genoese, Mazara, is dead, and Savory has married his widow, a jjretty and young native of Guam, by whom he has offspring. Savory occupies himself with the culture of a little farm, which is tolerably productive. He also carries on a trade in sweet potatoes of his own raising and in a rum of his own distillation from sugar cane, with the whaling ships which frequent the place ; and he had prosecuted his business with such success as to accumulate, at one time, several thousands of dollars. These he deposited in the ground, when, some three or four years since, a schooner arrived under the American flag, bringing a few worthless scoundrels, who ingratiated themselves, under the pretence of great friendship, with the old man, who was thus induced to make them the confidants of his success, and of its proof which he had stored away. These villains, after living for several months on terms of great intimacy and confidence with Savory, left the island, having first robbed their benefactor of all his money, despoiled his household of a couple of young women, whom they took away with them, carried off his journal, and wantonly injured his property. Fortunately for justice, the guilty party were afterwards arrested at Honolulu, but the captive women expressed themselves quite contented with their lot, and declared tliat they had no desire to return. As for the money, it was not learned whether that was ever recovered or not. The islands of Benin are high, bold^ and rocky, and are evidently of volcanic formation. GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. 201 They are green with verdure and a full growth of tropical vegetation, which crowds np the acclivities of the hills, from the very borders of the shore, whicli is, here and there, edged with coral reefs. The headlands and detached rocks have been thrown by former convulsions of nature into various grotesque forms, which assume to the eye the shape of castle and tower, and strange animals, of monstrous size and hideous form. Numerous canal-like passages were observed opening in the sides of the rocky cliifs, which had almost the appearance of being hewn out witli the chisel, but which were evidently formed in the course of volcanic changes, when the rock flowed in liquid lava, and found issue in these channels, which the torrents that come down the sides of the mountains in the rainy season toward the sea have worn smooth by constant attrition. Some of tliese dykes, or canal-like passages, less affected by time and the washing of the water, still retain their irregular formation, which has so much the appearance of steps that the observer^ as he looks upon them, might fancy they had been cut by tlie hand of man in the solid rock, for the purpose of climbing the mountain. On the Southern Head, as it is called, within the harbor of Port Lloyd, there is a very curious natural cave or tunnel, which passes through the basaltic rock, from the Southern Head to the beach on the other side. The entrance has a width of about fifteen feet, and a height of thirty, but the roof within soon rises to forty or fifty feet, where it has so much the appearance of artificial structure, that it maybe likened to a builder's arch, in whicli even the keystone is observable. There is sufficient Natural Tutinel, Port Lloyd, Bjnin I.~lands. water for a boat to pass from one end to the other. There are several other caves or tunnels. one of which is at least fifty yards in length, and passes througli a headland bounding the harbor. This is constantly traversed br the canoes of the inhabitants. 2f. J 202 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. The geological formation of the island is trappean, with its various configurations and mineralogical peculiarities; columnar basalt appears, and hornblende and chalcedony are found. There are all the indications of past volcanic action, and the oldest resident of Peel Island stated that two or three tremblings of the earthy, giving evidence of a liability to earthquake, are experienced annually even now. The harbor of Port Lloyd (as Beechey named it) is on the western side, and nearly in the centre of Peel Island. It is easy of ingress and egress, and may be considered as safe and commodious, though of deep ancliorage. Vessels usually anchor in from eighteen to twenty- two fathoms. The port is laid down on Beechey's chart as in latitude 2T° 5' 35" north, and 142° 11' 30" east longitude. This position, however, is believed to be erroneous, for, according to two sets of observations, made by the master of the Susquehanna, the longitude was found to be 142° 16' 30" east; five miles more to the eastward than Beechey makes it. The safest anchorage is to be found as high up the harbor as a ship can conveniently go, having regard to depth and room for swinging and veering cable. Beechey's directions for entering the port aro sufficiently correct, and these, together with the Commodore's own observations, will be found in the Appendix. AVood and water can be procured in abundance, though the former must be cut by the crew, and taken on board the ship green. The water is obtained from running streams, and is of good quality. Timber for building purposes is rather scarce, and would soon be exhausted if any increase of population were to render the erection of many houses necessary. The best kinds of wood are the jamana and wild mulberry, the former of which is very like the red wood of Brazil and Mexico, and is very enduring. The harbor of Port Lloyd and the neighboring waters abound with excellent fish, which may be taken by the hook or net, although the places for hauling the seine are few, owing to the coral which in many parts lines the shores. The best place for this purpose is upon the beach which borders "Ten Fathom Hole," a deep portion of the bay which is close to the coral reef that extends out from the shore. The varieties offish are not numerous; among those taken in the seine belonging to the Susquehanna there were but five observed: the mullet, which seemed to be the most abundant, two varieties of perch, the gar, and the common ray. Sharks are very numerous, and, when quite small, frequent the shallow places among the coral rocks, and are there pursued by the dogs, seized upon and dragged on shore. There is an abundance of excellent green turtle, of which the ships obtained large supplies ; there are also plenty of cray fish. The varieties of the testacea are numerous, but none that was observed of any rarity, and none edible except the chama gigas, which, however, is very tough and indigestible. The family of the Crustacea is very extensive, of which the land crab forms the chief part, and which exists in every variety of size, form, and color; one of the most abounding is that which is commonly known as the "pirate." This animal can be seen in every direction near the shore, travelling about with its odd-looking domicil upon its back, which it seems to have got possession of rather by chance than from choice. The "pirate" has no home of its own, but appropriates, whence its name, that which belongs to others. It has a decided preference for the shells of the buccina, murex, and bulla, which have the comfortable proportions of an inch and a half or so in length ; but if such desirable quarters should, by any mischance, happen to be scarce, the "pirate" readily turns into the next most suitable dwelling of some neighbor at hand. It is necessary that the animal should have some snug corner ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 203 wherein, if not to lay its head, at an}' rate to put its tail, for the latter is soft and requires constant protection. Thus, when the "pirate" moves about, his head and claws are always protruded, but his rear is covered with his borrowed shell. It is still an unsettled question whether this animal appropriates the domicils of others by first rudely ejecting their living occupants, or more considerately waits until a natural death or some fatality vacates the quarters, and then takes possession. The "pirate" is a voracious creature, and seizes with great avidity upon anything eatable that comes in its way. The scarcity of birds, both of sea and land species, struck every one as singular. There were not more than four or five varieties of the latter, the largest of which were the crow and the pigeon, the others being of small size. There were but few gulls or other sea-birds; on approaching the islands, some petrel were observed, of unusually large size and of singularly brilliant plumage. Among the quadrupeds there were found sheep, deer, hogs, and goats, with an infinite number of cats and dogs. The cats and dogs, having lost some of their quiet domestic virtues, had strayed into the jungle, and were dignified by the inhabitants with the title of wild animals, and were accordingly hunted with dogs. On Stapleton Island, the goats, which were placed there by some of the early settlers, have increased prodigiously, as have also these animals, together with the hogs, put iipon the other islands. Commodore Perry left on shore on the north side of Peel Island, with a view to their increase, two bulls and two cows, and on North Island five Shanghai broad-tailed sheep, of which two were rams, and six goats. Peel Island is the only one of the Bonin group inhabited, and it contained on the visit of the Commodore only thirty-one inhabitants, all told : of these, three or four were native Americans, about the same number Englishmen, one a Portuguese, and the remainder Sandwich islanders and children born on the island. The settlers have cultivated patches of land of some extent, and raise a considerable quantity of sweet potatoes, Indian corn, pumpkins, onions, taro, and several kinds of fruit, the most abundant of which are water-melons, bananas, and pine-apples. These productions, together with the few pigs and poultry that are raised, find a ready sale to the whale ships constantly touching at the port for water and other supplies. During the few days the Susquehanna was at anchor in the harbor, three whalers, two American and one English, communicated by means of their boats with the settlement and carried away a o-ood stock of supjjlies. These are obtained ordinarily in exchange for other articles from on board the ships, of which ardent spirits is to some of the settlers the most accejitable. Were it not for the scarcity of labor a much greater extent of land would be cultivated. At present there cannot be more than a hundred and fifty acres throughout the whole island under cultivation, and this is in detached spots, generally at the seaward termination of the ravines through which the mountain streams flow and thus supply an abundance of fresh water, or upon plateaux of land near the harbor. The soil is of excellent quality and resembles very much that of Madeira and the Canary islands, which are in the same parallel of latitude. It is admirably adapted for the cultivation of the vine, and for the raising of wheat, tobacco, sugar-cane, and many other valuable plants. In fact, the settlers already produce enough sugar and tobacco for their own consumption. The few people who live on Peel Island seem happy and contented. Those of European orio-in have succeeded in surrounding themselves with some of the comforts and appliances of civilization. In one of the cottages there was observed several compartments, and what with 204 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. hangings from the walls of Chinese matting, a chair or two, a table, a plentiful distribution of b'ne paint, and some gaudily colored lithographs, there seemed not only on the part of the proprietor a desire for comfoi't, hut even a taste for luxury. The Sandwich islanders, or Kanakas, as they are now familiarly known to sailors and traders, live very much as they do in their native islands, and have grouped together their 23alm thatched huts which liave very much the appearance of one of their native villages. The inhabitants, living a quiet and easy life in a climate which is genial and wholesome, and upon a land whose fertility supplies them, in return for but little labor, with all they want to eat and drink, do not care to change their condition. The Americans and Europeans have taken to themselves wives from amdng the good natured and substantial Kanaka women. Commodore Perry being desirous of obtaining as full information as possible of Peel Island during his short visit, determined to send parties of exploration into the interior. He accordingly detailed certain officers and men for the purpose, who were divided into two companies, one of which was headed by Mr. Bayard Taylor, and the other by Dr. Fahs, assistant surgeon. These gentlemen, having been duly armed and equipped, started early on the morning of the 15th of June, with the view of devoting the day to the proposed exploration. The party headed by Mr. Taylor, whose steps we shall first follow in the narrative, and whose report as submitted to the Commodore we shall freely use, was composed of eight : Mr. Bayard Taylor, Mr. Heine, the artist_,Mr. Boardman, midshipman, Mr. Lawrence, assistant engineer, Mr. Hampton, purser's steward, Smith, a marine, Dennis Terry, seaman, and a Chinese coolie. As Peel Island is only six miles in length, it was thought that one day was quite sufficient time for two parties properly distributed to explore so small a space. The northern part of the island, which is that which stretches immediately around the harbor, was the field of operation appropriated to the doctor's party, while the southern half fell to the duty of the explorers whose steps we are now about to follow. At early sunrise the party left the Susquehanna and were rowed ashore to the watering place at the head of the bay. On reaching this point the rations and ammunition were distributed to each, so that all might, as far as possible, be equally burdened. A Kanaka, who was met at the landing, was urged to accompany the party as a guide, but he was not disposed to comply, although he pointed out a small footpath, which he stated led over the hills to a Kanaka settlement about three miles distant. This direction was at once followed, which led them by a steep and slippery path through a wilderness of tropical growth. Palm trees, among which was the sago palm, that produces the sago of commerce, abounded ; parasitic plants hung in festoons from branch to branch, and by their close net work, interwoven with the trees, hindered the progress at every step, wlule the dew which dripped in the early morning from the thick foliage of the overgrown thicket wetted each one to the skin. The soil was observed to be that which is common about Port Lloyd and other parts of the island, and seemed composed of the detritus of trap rock and the decomposed refuse of the plants and trees. Kock of trap formation protruded frequently in rough crags from the steep sides of the hills, and in the crevices grew ii beautiful variety of the hibiscus, with its large flowers of a dull orange, whose petals were tipped with yellow of a lighter shade. A shower of white blossoms, which had fallen from a large tree of thirty feet in height, strewed here and there the ground. The course was up the ridge of the hill, and as it continued to the summit the vegetation became more and more profuse, until the expanding tops of the palm, the crowding together of EXPLORATION OF PEEL ISLAND. 205 the trunks of the trees, and the dense net work of the hanging vines, so shrouded the sun that the path was covered with a deep shade, through the darkness of which the eye could hardly penetrate to a greater distance, in any direction, than twenty or thirty feet. It was difficult at tinaes to trace the path. When the party had reached the water-courses of the streams which flowed down the other side of the ridge they were ascending, multitudes of the land crabs pattered away in every direction, frightened out of their coverts by the approaching footsteps. The ridge at its summit widened into an undulating surface of a mile and a half or so in breadth, and was furrowed with deep gullies. The declivity on the otlier side of the ridge, below which opened a deep ravine, was so steep that the men were obliged to let themselves down by swinging from tree to tree. This ravine between the steep mountains, which, with the exception of the bared rock here and there, were profusely covered with vegetation, presented a wild aspect, with a stream of water flowing over a rocky bed through thickets of undergrowth and masses of tropical vegetation spreading over the rocky cliffs and doAvn the hills on all sides. The party now crossed the stream, and coming upon a field of the taro plant, which was of remarkably luxuriant growth, struck directly through it and reached the forest beyond. Finding it impossible, however, to make their way in that direction, they turned back through the taro and regained the stream. The path was now recovered, which was found to lead through a valley which bore signs of habitation. Cultivated patches of ground showed themselves here and there with flourishing crops of sweet potatoes, taro, tobacco, sugar-cane, pumpkin, and the sida or Indian gooseberry, which seemed to grow with wonderful luxuriance. In the centre of the valley two palm thatched huts were observed, but the party, upon coming up to them and entering, found they were uninhabited, although there were signs of their having been occupied that morning. Guns were then fired to attract the attention of any inhabitants who might be within hearing, and a good result was soon apparent by the answering signal of a shout, which was immediately followed by the appearance of a South Sea islander, with a face tattooed of a light blue and clothed in coarse cotton shirt and trowsers. He introduced himself under the dignified title of "Judge," and professed to be a native of Nukahwa in the Marquesas islands. This Marquesite seemed to be in very flourishing condition. He had a hut to live in, a plantation to cultivate, and made a fair show of live stock with his dogs and four pigs. The "Judge" was very affable, and in a very friendly manner gave freely all the information at his command. He pointed out to his visitors how the valley turned round the spur of the mountain and opened westward to the sea. The stream was here only a creek in appearance, but was of sufficient dejjth to float canoes, in one of which the "Judge" had just arrived from a turtle hunt, and had brought with him a fine animal, which he busied himself with cutting up in the wishful company of his four dogs, who were licking their chops with a hopeful anticipation of their share of the feast. The " Judge" was requested to guide the party to the southern end of the island, which he stated to be about three or four miles distant, without, however, any pathway to it. His companion, however, who knew tlie way, was sent for, and a copper colored Otaheitan, who hardly spoke English, soon presented himself. He acknowledged that he was acquainted with the route, and familiar with the wild boar haunts, but refused to go with the i^arty unless joined by the " Judge," who, after some hesitation, consented, with the understanding that he 20(3 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. should be allowed to stow away his turtle flesh before starting. This, of course, was readily conceded. The valley in which the explorers found themselves was estimated to be about a mile in length, and its widest part was a quarter of a mile in breadth. The main branch of the valley was not that which had been entered, but took an easterly direction, through which a stream flowed ; the southern part seemed to be impassable, from being walled up with rocks heaped one above the other. From the "Judge's" hut the sea was said to be about half a mile distant. The soil of the valley is of a rich loam, and, judging by the flourishing appearance of the vege- tables and crops grown by the settlers, exceedingly fertile. The tobacco was particularly vio-orous in growth, being five feet in height. The water of the stream is sweet and pure, and the supply constant. Some lemons, which the "Judge" had stored away in his hat, he said came from the north of the valley. The party, now under the guidance of the "Judge" and his companion, took an E.S.E. course, following through the ravine the stream. The bed of the stream was in various places crowded with large boulders of trap rock, heaped confusedly one upon another. The vegetation presented the usual tropical profusion of trees, parasite plants, and under growth. From the denseness of the woods and the greasy, slippery nature of the soil, the progress of every step was toilsome and painful. Two of the party in the rear, while those in advance awaited upon a cliff their coming up, started a wild boar, and fired at him a passing shot, but without efiect. The dogs which belonged to the settlers were not of much use, for they kept clinging to the heels of their masters, instead of ranging the forest and beating up the game from its cover. On leaving the water-course the explorers climbed the southern side of the ravine, which they could only do by clinging to the roots or to the tough vines which hung from the trees. In the deep shadow and turnings of the wood, through which there was no path, the members of the party became scattered, and the leaders were again obliged to await at the summit of the ridge the coming of those who lagged behind. Among the various palms, which grow abundantly, some specimens of the palma latina were observed at this spot, with immensely broad leaves and stems nearly eight feet in length, the jagged edges of which wounded the travellers' hands as they struggled through the forest. The pandanus was also seen, with its shoots, sometimes twenty or thirty in number, sticking down and outwards from the lower part of its straight trunk, and rooting themselves in the ground, until they formed a pyramidal base, from which the tree rose in a slender column, covered with a graceful capital of foliage. While some of the party were resting upon the ridge, waiting for their companions who had fallen behind, a great barking of dogs rose from a neighboring ravine, at which two of the party started off at once. Several shots from the company were soon heard, and Mr. Taylor, the leader, followed, making for the direction of the sound, and, after plunging through an almost impenetrable thicket, in the course of which he came upon the lair of a wild boar, arrived at the bed of a brook, where the hunters were grouped about a young boar. He was not over a year old, and, with his long snout and the dirty, dark grey color of his bristling hide, looked some- what like the Chinese hog. Mr. Hampton, one of the party who had been left behind upon the ridge, was now sent for; but the "Judge," who had gone in search of him, soon returned, stating that he was sick, and unable to come up. Mr. Hampton, however, in a short time gathered strength enough to follow, and succeeded in reaching the party, although evidently, much overcome with fatigue. As the Otaheitan guide, however, said that it was only two miles EXPLORATION OF PEEL ISLAND. 207 to tlie soutliern end of the island, Mr. Hampton resolved to continue with his companions, instead of returning, as had been proposed, with the "Judge" to the valley. The explorers having taken with them the liver and the kidneys of the wild hoar, hung up his carcase upon a tree to remain until their return, and then continued their course. In about a half hour afterward the ridge which divides the island was crossed and the top of the slope of the southern side reached. From this poiiit the sea was seen and a view obtained of Bailly's Island, rising from the surface in the distance, a little west of south. It was newfound necessary to alter the coui'se of the route, for the guide had taken the party too far to the right and led them to the brink of a steep precipice which it was impracticable to descend. There was some difficulty now in retracing their steps, for they had got so near to the precipice that they were forced to creep along with great caution, clinging to the strong grass and shrubs which grew upon the brink. By this mode of procedure, for the extent of two hundred yards or so, they succeeded in reaching a place where the precipice terminated ; but where the descent was still so steep that it was found necessary for each man, as he descended, to place himself upon his back and thus slide down the declivity, taking care to check his speed by occasionally clenching the earth or some projecting bush. Finally, the ravine below was reached, but there was considerable disappointment on finding that the worst was not yet over ; for, instead of Valley near South East Bay, Peel Island, Bonin Group. coming upon a water-course, as was expected, which might lead gently to the sea side, it was discovered that there was a succession of rocky steps, varying from ten to fifty feet, down which it was necessary to clamber. At last the beach was reached ; and as those in advance looked 208 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. up to their remaining companions, some standing upon tlie edge of the cliffs, and others letting themselves down their precipitous sides, the undertaking just accomplished seemed a marvellous feat of labor, difficulty, and danger. The party now found themselves in what the guide called the South East Bay, which was said to be frequently visited by the whalers ; some of whom had left evidence of their visits in the stump of a tree, which showed marks of having been smoothly cut with a large axe. There was also a neglected bed of tomatoes, overgrown with weeds, seen stretched along the banks of the stream, which had certainly been planted there by the hand of man. On the gathering of all the company, who were almost worn out, and suffered much from the excessive heat, a fire was lighted, and the boar's liver and kidneys being duly cooked, a very excellent extemporaneous feast, with the addition of the pork and other rations brought with them^ was prepared and voraciously discussed. The party being refreshed by their banquet and the rest they had enjoyed, and it being as late as two o'clock, determined to return. When the guides announced that it was necessary to go back the way they came, the resumption of the labors, and the expo- sure to the dangers which had just been undergone, seemed quite appalling. There was, however, no alternative, and the party was forced to retrace their steps, but succeeded, finally, with a renewed experience of their former troubles, and after excessive fatigue, in reaching the valley whence they had set out with the "Judge" and his Otaheitan companion. South En«t Ii;,y, lVi-1 Waiirt. It was six o'clock in the evening when they arrived at the "Judge's" quarters, so tliey spared themselves but little time for repose, but soon continued their journeying. One of t';e party was so wearied with fatigue as to be obliged to proceed to the Kanaka settlement, at tlje EXPLORATION OP PEEL ISLAND. 209 south end of Port Lloyd, by the way of the sea, in a canoe, piloted by the Otaheitan. The rest went by land, attempting to return by the same route as that they had come. The path was not easily found, however, and the explorers suffered another hard experience in the forest and over the rough crags, where they were nearly lost among the entangled undergrowth and much battered by the irregularity of the ground. Another member of the party gave out, but was brought along by main force, and having been deposited in a safe place on the summit of the ridge, under the care of one of the men, the rest pushed on ; and having reached the Kanaka settlement, at the south end of Port Lloyd, took their station on a clifl' whicli over]o(dved the bay, and whence the great hull of the Susquehanna could be barely discovered in the surrounding darkness. Firing a volley with their guns, as a signal, they were soon answered by the arrival of the ship's cutter, and having sent back for the tired member of the party, they all pulled ofi'for the steamer, where they arrived at ten o'clock at night, sorely bruised and fatigued bj^ the hard day's work. The other party, under the command of the assistant surgeon, returned about the same time, and tlie result of the observations, as reported by Dr. Fahs, is now recorded. The volcanic origin of the island was clearly manifest from the existence of ancient craters. Trap rock, intermingled with amygdaloid and green stone, formed the basis of the island, as it did the loftiest peaks of the hills ; basaltic dykes were observed to pass through beds of sand, scoria, and cinders, and strata of old lava were traced along the seacoast and in other parts where deep sections of rock were exposed. A sulphur spring, characterized by the usual strong odor and taste of sulphuretted hydrogen gas, was discovered issuing from one of the ravines, and iron pyrites abounded in many places. The vegetation, too, was not such as is generally found in volcanic countries of the same latitude as the Benin Islands. It would appear that Port Lloyd was at one time the crater of an active volcano, from which the surrounding hills had been thrown up, while the present entrance to the harbor was formed by a deep fissure in the side of the cone, through which a torrent of lava had poured into tlie sea, leaving, after its subsidence, a space into which the waters subsequently were emptied, bringing with them their usual deposits^ which, together with the coral formation, now forms the bottom and sides of the harbor. The surface of the island is varied. Plains extend from the basis of the hills toward the sea- shore, and are composed of a dark vegetable mould, sometimes five or six feet deep, intermixed with the shells of marine animals and the detritus of trap rock, and spread upon a founda- tion of coral. These plains are highly fertile, and those now cultivated produce a rich harvest of sweet potatoes of immense size, Indian corn^ sugar-cane of wonderfully vigorous growth and excellent quality, yams, taro, melons, and the ordinary products of a kitchen garden. The Irish potato has been tried, but not sufficiently long to form an estimate of its probable success. The plains on the bay only have been cultivated as yet, but there is every reason to believe that the others are equally fertile, and might be made to yield sufficientlj^ to support a large population. The hills rise in some places by a gentle slope from the plains, and in others abruptly by steep ascents, which give them the appearance of terraces rising one above the other. At tlie head of the bay two prominent peaks rise, which are known by the name of the Paps, one of which reaches the elevation of a thousand feet, and the other eleven hundred. They are clearly seen on entering the harbor, and are important guides to the navigator. Tlie springs in the northern half of the island, which was the fiehl of survey now reviewed, are few, two only of which run constantly with a supply of pure drinking water. In the valleys there are several others, but they are so brackish or so frequently dry that they cannot be relied upon as sources 27 J 210 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. of supply. Tlirougli the ravines which intersect the valleys streams pour down into the sea during the rainy season, but their beds, crowded here and there with large boulders of trap rock, are hardly moist during the dry weather. The flora of the island is tropical, and was observed to be as beautiftil as can be found in any similar latitude. In the valleys and along the sea beach a tree of large size, called by the people living on the island the Crumeiw, was seen in abundance. It had a thick and short trunk, with a gray bark, a very dense foliage, with large oval leaves of smooth surface and bright green color, arrayed in clusters around the branches, from the ends of which grew tufts of beautiful whit« flowers. Dense forests of palm crowded up the hill-sides and into the ravines, and were of such close growth that their full development was hindered and other vegetation prevented. The fan- palm was the most abundant of the six species observed. Among the various trees was noticed a variety of the beech of considerable size, a large tree growing in abundance on the mountains, which somewhat resembled the dog-wood, and an immense mulberry with an occasional girth of thirteen or fourteen feet. Of smaller trees and plants, there were the laureL the juniper, the box-wood tree, fern^ banana, orange, pine-apple, and whortleberry. Lichens, mosses, and ,NrtnNK«"'>*'^"'-^'" Stapleton Island. various parasitic plants were abundant. Tliere were but few kinds ot grasses, and most of thom unfit for pasturage. The jungle weed, in the uncultivated tracts, is so dense that it crowds out almost everything else of its kind. EXAMINATION OF STAPLE TON ISLAND. 211 The animals on the island were mostly imported hut had become-wild in their habits from straying in the woods. Pigeons, finches, crows, and sandpipers, were found among the native birds, and the tortoise, the iguana, and a small lizard were the principal indigenous animals seen. In addition to the two surveys of Peel Island, the interesting results of which have been just recorded, the Commodore dispatched an officer to report on the general aspect and character of the island of Stapleton, from whose statement some valuable facts are derived. Stapleton Island, like the rest of the Bonin group, is of volcanic origin, and has a varied surface of plain, hill, and valley, with large tracts of fertile land. A small bay was found on the western side with apparently deep water, and surrounded by rocks and mountains varying from 800 to 1,500 feet in height, which protect it from the S.E. typhoons. A small promontory and coral reef were observed to divide this bay, and on the land border- ing the northern section was a spring of cool, well-tasting water, coming out of a rock and giving a supply of nearly three gallons per minute. Tlie indigenous productions of Stapleton were the same as those on the other islands, but the goats which had been introduced there had increased marvellously, to the extent, it was supposed, of several thousands, and had become very wild in the course of their undisturbed wanderings through the secluded ravines and over the savage rocks of the island. The Commodore, having been long satisfied of the importance of these islands to commerce, was induced to visit them, chiefly by a desire of examining them himself and recommending Peel Island as a stopping place for the line of steamers whicli, sooner or later, must be estab- lished between California and China. To this end he caused tlie island to be explored, the harbor to be surveyed, and a few animals to be placed upon two of the groujjs of islands, as the commencement of a provision for future wants. Garden seeds of every description were also distributed among the present settlers, and hopes were held out to them by the Commodore of a future supjjly of implements of husbandry and a greater number of animals. A suitable spot too was selected for the erection of ofiices, wharves, coal-sheds, and other buildings necessary for a depot for steamers. A title was obtained to a piece of land which is admirably adapted to the desired purpose. It is situated on the northern side of the bay, near its head, with a front on the water of 1,000 yards and a good dejith near the shore for the length of 500 yards, it might, by the building of a pier extending out fifty feet, be conveniently approached by the largest vessel afloat. In a letter addressed to the Navy Department Commodore Perry has given at length his views of the conveniences of Peel Island for the establishment of a depot for steamers. In this communication he says : "As my instructions direct me to seek out and establish ports of refuge and refreshment for vessels traversing these distant seas, I have, from the commencement of the cruise, kept con- stantly in view the port in which we are now at anchor,* and the principal harbor of the Bonin Islands, as well for general convenience of resort as to furnish connecting links, or suitable stopping places, for a line of mail steamers, which I trust may soon be established between some one of our Pacific ports and China, an event so mi:ch to be desired, and, if accomplished, one that will be distinguished, even in the history of these remarkable times, as of the highest importance to the commerce of the United States and of the world. * The Commodore is writing from Napha , in Lew Chow. 212 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. "The mails from the United States and Euroije, by the way of Egypt, the Red sea, and Indian ocean, arrive regularly at Hong Kong, almost to a day, twice a week in each month. From Hong Kong to Shanghai, five days may he allowed for the passage. To this point the British government would doubtless extend its mail if it were taken up by us and continued on to California. ''Its transportation, by steam, from Shanghai to San Francisco, via the Bonin and Sandwich Islands, would occupy thirty days, allowing three days for stopping for coal, etc. Tlius, the distance from San Francisco to Honolulu, in the Sandwich Islands, is roughly estimated at 2,003 miles; from Honolulu to Peel Island, 3,301 miles; and from Peel Island to the mouth of the Yang-tzse-Keang, or Shanghai river, 1,081 miles; in all, 6,475 miles; and allowing 240 miles per day, the time at sea would be twenty-seven, and the time in port three days; from San Francisco to New York twenty-two days would be required, making from Shanghai to New York fifty-two days. "The usual time occupied in transporting the mail from England to Hong Kong, via Marseilles, (the shortest route,) is from forty-five to forty-eight days; add to that two days' detention at Hong Kong, and five more to Shanghai, would make the time required to reach the latter place from fifty-two -to fifty-five days. "Shanghai might be considered the terminus of the English and the commencement of the American mail; and thus an original letter could be sent west by way of Europe, and its duplicate east by way of California, the first arriving at Liverpool about the time its duplicate reaches New York. "But apart from the advantages, and, I may add, the glory of perfecting a scheme so mag- nificent, this line of steamers would contribute largely to the benefit of commerce. Already many thousands of Chinamen are annually embarking for California, paying for their passages each ,$50, and finding themselves in everything, excepting Avater and fuel for cooking their food. "These provident people are the most patient and enduring laborers, and must, by their orderly habits, add greatly to the agricultural interests of California. "But Shanghai is now becoming the great commercial mart of China; already does it outrival Canton in its trade with the United States, and when it shall be considered that the fine teas and silks, and other rare and valuable commodities of that part of China, can be conveyed by means of steam to California in five, and to New York in eight weeks, it is impossible to estimate in anticipation the advantages that may grow out of an intercourse so rapid and so certain."* * The importance of the Bonin Islnnds to the advancement of commercial interests in the east is so great that the suhject hag more or less occupied the mind of the Commodore since his return ; and this importance is best shown by the following document which has been placed in the hands of the compiler by Commodore Perry since this chapter was written : J^'oles u'illi respect to the Bonin Islands. My visit to the Bonin Islands forcibly impressed me with the idea of their importance as a point of rendezvous for vessels navigating that part of the Pacific ocean in which they lie, and especially as offering a port of refuge and supply for whaling ships resorting to those regions, as well as a depot for coal for a line of steamers which, ere long, must unquestionably be established between California and China, via Japan. Whales of several varieties abound in those parts of the ocean lying between the Bonins and the coast of Asia, and are in greater numbers in the neighborhood of Japan. Until the establishment of a treaty with that singular empire the masters of whaling vessels were cautious not to approach near to its shores, under a well-founded apprehension of falling into the hands of the J.ipanese, and sutfering, as a consetjuence, imprisonment and cruel treatment. These fears should no longer exist, as the stipulations of the treaty make provision and offer guaranties not only for kind treatment to those .Americans who may approach the coast, or be thrown by accident upon its liiiherto inhospitable shores, but allow all American vessels under press of weather to enter any of its ports lor temporary refitment ; and t!ie ports of llaUodadi and Si;noda are open for all purposes uf repair or supplies. ADVANTAGES OP PORT LLOYD, 213 After a stay of four days at the Bonln Islands, the Susquehanna weighed anchor, and talcing the Saratoga in tow sailed on the morning of Saturday the ISth of June, on the return, voyage to Lew Chew. After clearing the luirhor of Port Lloyd, the course was steered toward Disaj)pointment Island. On tlie passage from Levv' Chew to the Bonin Islands the Commodore had desired to sight and determine the position of this island, hut, although it had been made hy the Susquehanna which stood directly for it on the day previous to her arrival at Port Lloyd, there was no opportunity, in consequence of the apjiroaching darkness, to make any observation but an ajiproximation by means of computation. The Commodore, therefore, on his return voyage, was particularly desirous of seeing the island of DisapiDointment and determining with precision its position, about which so much has been said and written. Accordingly, as the island was made directly ahead a short period after noon, and passed at a distance of only three or four miles, its exact position was accurately determined by data derived from the noon-day observation. It is a low island, with two detached rocks extending a cable or two in length from its extreme point, and lies in latitude 27° 15' north, and in longitude 140° 56' 30" east from Greenwich. *It is jjresumed that Disappointment and Kosario are one and the same i.sland. In addition to the nautical observation of the officers of the ship, the artist made a drawing of the appearance of the island, which will be found in the Appendix. As, therefore, tlie obstacle-^ to a free navigation of the Japan seas no longer present themselves, our whaling ships may cruise in safety and without interruption as near to the shores as may be convenient, or in the seas lying more to the eastward. But to render this part of the ocean in all respects convenient to our whaling ships sonietiiing more is wanted, and that is a port of resort, which shall be in all respects free for tiiem to enter and depart without the restraints of exclusive laws and national prejudices; for though, as before remarked, tlie ports of Hakodadi and Simoda, in Japan, to which we may add Napha, in great Lew Chew, are by treaty open to American vessels, a long lime may elapse before the people of those ports will probably divest themselves of the jealousies ivhich tiiey have hitherto entertained against strangers, and it is ivell known that the crews of whaling vessels visiting the ports of the Pacific are not remarkable for their orderly behavior or conciliatory deportment, hence my argument in favor of an establishment at the Bonin Islands is strengthened. My plan is to establisii a colony at Port l^loyd, Peei Island, the principal of the Bonin group, leaving the question of sovereignty to be discussed hereafter. I have already in tlie narrative described these islands, and shall now proceed to set forth my plan for building up a thrifty settlement whicli shall extend over the entire group of islands. First, then, a company of merchants, in connexion with a few artisans, should form a joint stock company for the purpose of cstablislung a colony on Peel Island. The experiment need not involve any very great outlay. Two vessels, each of three or four hundred tons, suitably equipped for whaling, should be em'ployed first in transporting to the island materials for the construction of a storehouse and a few small dwellings, and the necessary supplies for furnishing a store with chandlery, naval stores groceries, and all such articles as are usually needed by whaling and other ships. After landing tlie passengers and cargo, these vessels might proceed to cruise in the neighborliood and in the Japan seas in pursuit of wliales — returning occa- sionally to the settlement for refreshment, &c. ; when these two vessels shall have jointly secured enough of oil to load one of them, that one should be sent home to be again refitted and freighted with additional colonists and fresh supplies for the store- house and for the settlers ; and so the two vessels might alternate in their voyages to the United States. Thus in a short time a colony could be built up, and the results prove profitable to all parties concerned. Whaling vessels, .\merican, English, and French, would resort in greater numbers to the port for refreshment and supplies, becoming customers in the purchase of needful articles for their vessfls, and giving employment to the artisans and farmers of the colony. If mjnev should be wanted by the whalemen visiting the port, to make payment for laborer supplies, oil at just prices would betaken in lieu thereof. There should be sent out by the company none but young married people, quarters for whom cjuld be obtained in the houses of the present settlers till dwellings could be erected for their exclusive occupation. Thus the settlement would, in all probability, form the nucleus of a religious and happy community, and here a missionary station might be formed without obstacle, from whence missionaries at a proper season might be sent to Japan, Formosa, and other benighted countries in that quarter of the globe. At the present time whaling vessels cruising in the seas lying between the Sandivich Islands and Japan are frequently oblio-ed to resort either to those islands or to Hong Kong for refitment and supplies, a distance from some of their whaling grounds of several thousands of miles ; in such a voyage, and in the unavoidable delay in port, much time is occupied ; and apart from the enormous charges made at those ports, which make it necessary to draw heavily upon the owners at home, the crews become sickly and demoralized by their indulgence in dissipation. Now, a depot established at Peel Island would be central, and would probably be wanting, for a length of years, at least, in the meansfor improper indulgence, for which the ports before mentioned are notorious. The right of sovereignty undoubtedly belongs to Japan, as the earliest known occupant of the islands; beyond this claim the present settlers have unqtiestionably priority of right of jurisdiction. 214 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. From Disappointment Island the conrse of the ship was steered directly for the Borodinos as laid down in the ordinary charts. They were made on the 22d of June directly ahead, and were found to he two in numher, situated five miles apart, and lying in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. They appeared to he of coral formation hut of great antiquity, as trees of con- siderahle size crowned the uplands, the most elevated part of which may have heen forty feet ahove the level of the sea. The navigation in the immediate neighborhood seemed free of danger, but no indentations were seen in the surrounding shore which might afford safe anchoring places. No signs of people were discovered, and it is presumed that the islands are tminhahited. The position of the extremity at the south of the southern island was estimated to he in latitude 25° 4*7', and in longitude 131° 19' east. As during the return voyage moderate breezes from S.S.W. to S.W. prevailed with warm weather, and as, in fact, the wind ever since the first de^jarture from Napha had continued from the southward and westward, it may be inferred that the southwest monsoon extends as far north as the parallels of latitude in which the course of the ships laid. The Susquehanna and Saratoga reached, in the evening of June 23d, their anchorage in the hay of Napha, where they found the Mississippi, the Plymouth, and the Supply. Port Lloyd and Boniu Islanda Hhil'il'iNT Hi' l,K,W CIIKW CHANGES AT N A P U A, NEW REGENT. 215 CHAPTEU XI. CHANGES AT KAPHA, NEW REGENT. BANQUET ON BOARD OF THE SUSQUEHANNA. EXCESSIVE DIGNITY OF THE NEW REGENT. STATELINESS OF LEW CHEWANS THAWED OUT BY THE DINNER. GUESTS SENT HOME. BAMBOO VILLAGE. INTERIOR OF LEW CHEW HOUSES. MEN INDOLENT. GOSSIFPING AT LEW CHEW. LEW CHEW LOOM. DIFFERENT CLASSES OF THE PEOPLE. THEIR FEAR OF SPIES. SLAVERY OF PEASANTS. CAUSES OF DEGRADATION. EXCELLENCE OF AGRICULTURAL CULTIVATION. ORIGIN OF POPULATION OF LEW CHEW. FORMER KINGDOMS ON THE ISLAND. RELATION OF LEW CHEW TO CHINA AND JAPAN, RESPECTIVELY. EDUCATION IN LEW CHEW. RELIGION OF THE INHABITANTS. CHRISTIAN MISSION IN LEW CHEW. DISTINC- TIONS OF DRESS. PEOPLE SELL THEMSELVES AS SLAVES. CLANSHIP. COIN IN LEW CHEW SUGAR MAKING. NATURAL PRODUCTS OF THE ISLAND. HEN the squadron returned to Naplia, on tlie 23d of June, it was found that a new regent had been installed. The old occupant, who had so pertinaciously striven to prevent the Commodore's visit to Shui, and who had also so bountifully entertained our countrymen at his own habitation, had, it was said, been deposed. It was difficult to ascertain with certainty the causes of this degradation, but it was not to be doubted that, if true, it was in some mode connected with the presence of our ships at Najjha, and probably resulted from the admission of the Commodore and his suite into the royal residence at Shui. It was not a j^leasant reflection to the officers that they should have been, however innocently, the cause of the poor old man's degradation; and it seemed hard to understand wliy their visit should have led to more serious consequences than those produced by that of the officers of H. B. M. ship Sphynx to the same place. At first, it was rumored that the old regent had been obliged to perform the Jiara-hiri, or disembowelling operation; but the jjainful feelings produced by this intelligence were happily relieved by the sight of the old man in his house at Shui, by two of the officers of the Susquehanna. Dr. Bettelheim (who did not seem to feel any pity for the degraded dignitary) stated that he would probably be banished, with his family, to one of the smaller islands. The Commodore, who was quite satisfied with the conciliatory measures that had been pursued during his absence, now renewed his invitation to the regent and trea.surer to dine on board the Susquehanna, on Tuesday, the 28th of June, offering to send boats for them. Tliis invitation was accepted; and the Commodore had reason to doubt the whole story of tlie old regent's degradation, from the fact that the new regent. Sluing Hung Hiun, a member of the family of his predecessor, and a much younger man, did not hesitate to accept an invitation to the dinner, 216 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. but went even furtlier in his courtesies and attentions than the ohl regent had ever done. As far as he could ascertain the facts, the Commodore believed that the old man had voluntarily- resigned in favor of the young one. On the appointed day of the feast, three of the ship's boats were sent off to the creek at Tumai to bring on board the invited guests. On their arrival, and after the usual presentation of crimson cards, they came on board in robes of the finest and cleanest grass-cloth, and with hafchee mafchees of showy color on their heads. Captain Buchanan received them at the gang- way, and conducted them through the various parts of the ship. The day was oppressively warm, and the visitors found it so sultry between decks, and especially in the engine room, that they were glad once more to stand u})on the upper deck. The marines were under arms, and the band played to give honor to their reception. When dinner was announced they were ushered into the Commodore's cabin, and immediately sat down to the table. The entertainment was, of course, entirely in accordance with European and American customs. The Commodore took the centre of the table, with the regent on his right hand and the chief treasurer on his left, while the mayor of Naplia and one of the other treasurers were seated near the ends of the table, where they were taken in charge by the commanders of the different vessels of the squadron . Mr. Williams and Dr. Bettelheim were present as guests and interpreters ; while at a smaller l>iiiut-r to the il< table were Messrs. 0. H. Perry, Portman, Taylor, and Heine. None ot the regent's suite wore allowed to sit at table with him, but remained in attendance. His interpreter, Ichirazichi, the same whom we have already presented to our readers, stood behind him. BANQUET ON BOARD OP THE SUSQUEHANNA. 217 The new-regent was a small man, apparently about forty-five years old, of more swarthy complexion than any of his suite, and with a slight cast in his left eye. He was remarkably grave and taciturn, seemed to be perpetually awake to the novelty of his position, having at times a restless and uneasy expression of countenance, and never spoke except when he was particularly addressed. It was very evident that he was less at his ease than any person present. This, perhaps, arose from his newly acquired rank, to which he had not yet become accustomed, and possibly some embarrasment may have been caused by the apprehension that he should be wanting in some of the i)roprieties of etiquette at an American dinner table. Perhaps, too, he was not without his fears that, surrounded as he knew himself to be by spies, his visit might bring in its train some unpleasant political consequences. His dress consisted of a dark purple or violet-colored robe and a cap of crimson. The treasurers, both old men with wrinkled faces and scanty grey beards, wore similar caps, while their robes were yellow. The mayor was attired in a robe of pearl-white grass cloth, and had on his head a crimson cap. The hair of all was put up with massive gold pins, and their girdles were of rich Chinese silk. These various dresses were presumed to be official, and in their diversity of color indicative of difierence of rank. The inferior attendants who stood behind these dignitaries were dressed in blue and yellow with scarlet caps. Knives and forks were placed, in our usual fashion, for each guest. The first seemed to be very much in the way of the Lew Chewans ; with the last they did better, and showed some dexterity in making them answer the purpose of chop sticks. This, however, was a matter of but little moment, as, be the implements used what they may, hungry men will contrive in some mode to convey food to their mouths, and the Lew Chewans, like sensible men, manifested no inten- tion of avoiding awkwardness at such a heavy jjrice as the loss of a good dinner ; and the dinner was very good. Turtle soup, goose, kid curry, and various other delicacies formed part of the feast which was spread with bountiful profusion. To the soup the mayor and treasurer did ample justice, and in their apijreciation of its excellence were not unworthy rivals of a London Alder- man. The cabin was sultry, and as the feast proceeded the guests grew warmer, (for they were very much in earnest,) until finally they asked permission to remove their caps, and this having been done, the attendant of each, standing behind, vigorously fanned the uncovered head of his master. Punch followed the soup and furnished tliem with a new gustatory enjoyment. They had given the Commodore some of their saki, and he was now resolved to give them a taste of the saki made in all other parts of the world. So there were French and German wines, Scotch and American whiskey, madeira and sherry, and the gin of Holland, winding up with the sweet, smooth, strong maraschino, which decidedly, in their estimation, bore away the jialm. They smacked their lips and shut their eyes at each siji of the limpid delicacy, and, in short, showed but a very sorry appreciation of the virtue of temperance. And while they were thus almost equalling Christendom in genteel dissipation, Mr. Heine, at the small table, was making a sketch of the group, and Mr. Portman was taking a portrait of the regent. After feeding heartily on tlie .substantials, they asked leave to smoke their jiii^es ; it was of course accorded, and the chief treasurer, after a few whiSs, presented his^ with the embroidered tobacco pouch attached, to the Commodore. The mayor and other treasurers followed his example by handing theirs to Captains Buchanan and Adams. There seemed to be no end to the cajmcity of stomach in some of these officials. Preserved oysters and other articles of food sealed up in America, excited an admiration as boundless as their appetites. Part of the dessert 28 .1 218 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. consisted of melons and bananas brought from the Bonin Islands. These took them completely captive and they begged that they might carry some home to their wives. They were^ of course, told to do so, and forthwith the loose folds of each one's robe above his girdle was converted into a pocket and loaded yrith what it would hold. When things had reached this stage, there was but too much reason to fear that "the tide of wine and wassail was fast gaining on the dry land of sober judgment." All reserve was now fully thawed out. The quiet repose of a calm contentment sat enthroned on the shining faoe of the jolly old mayor of Napha. The wrinkled visages of the two withered old treasurers flushed and exj^anled into rubicund fullness. The regent alone preserved Ms silent, anxious demeanor, and all he drank was neutralized in its effects by his excessive dignity. He appeared cordial and friendly but once, and that was when the Commodore offered him an assortment of American garden seed and vegetables. These he promised to plant and carefully cultivate. The Commo- dore had previously landed, as a present, cattle and buifaloes; these he also promised should be carefully looked to and their offspring preserved. The band had been playing on the deck while the guests were feasting, and when the weightier part of the festival was over the Commodore ordered down some of the more expert performers, to play solos on the flageolet, hautboy, clarionet, and cornet-a-piston. The regent listened attentively, but the mayor and treasurers were too busy in stowing away the epular fragments to be moved by any "concord of sweet sounds." Coifee was offered them, under the name of "American tea." They did not relish it, and resorted once more to their pipes. The attendants had not been forgotten. They had enjoyed an abttudance of meat and drink in the steward's pantry, and relished it quite as much as their masters. But all earthly enjoyment must have an end, and the feast at last was over. The guests were jjut on shore at Tumai, leaving the ship under a salute of three guns ; and so ended the dinner given to the regent on on board the Susquehanna. The return to Lew Chew aflbrded to some of the officers an oj^portunity of making further examinations as to the external aspect of the island, and of catching further glimpses of the habits and pursuits of the inhabitants. One of the gentlemen attached to the Saratoga thus describes the result of one of his explorations : " Rambled over the hill this afternoon to a most remarkable village. Approaching toward the spot, it appeared to be a thick swamp of green brushwood. Not a house nor anything of the kind was to be seen. It looked like one of those long, low, marshy thickets, in which I hunted for blackbirds' eggs, in my boyhood. But on reaching it, after crossing a wide, clear field of grass, we passed into and through one of the sweetest little villages I ever entered, completely embowered with thickly matted tops of the tall and swaying bamboo, artistically laid off in squares, with level streets of red sandy soil, overarched Avith the branches of the bamboo, that formed hedges on either side, through which, at regular distances, were oi^enings into the gardens surrounding the dwellings of the inhabitants, highly cultivated with a variety of vegetables. I had neither read of nor seen a town like this." In the course of his ramble, the officer from whose journal this extract is made entered several of the dwellings, for the purpose of gratifying his curiosity concerning the domestic arrangements. He found the floors invariably covered with thick mats, of regular width and length, laid side by side, as a carpet. These he found constituted the sleeping place at night, and to preserve them from dirt, the inhabitants always step on them with the feet bare, or '.•is « GOSSIPPING AT LEW CHEW. 219 covered with stockings only ; when thoy enter from without, tliey slip off their loose straw sandals at the door. In every instance where he entered, our informant found that the men were the drones of the hive, and the women the workers. From three to half a dozen of the former were invariahly to he seen, seated upon their crossed ankles, in a circle, with a cup of live coals, a little box of fine cut tobacco, and a spittoon, in the centre. Thus seated, in dreamy indolence, they would draw forth their little pipes from their belts, unsheath them, take a mere pinch of the tobacco from the box, and place it in the little metallic bowl of the pipe, which was not more than half the size of a young girl's thimble, light it, and after two or three long whiffs, they would retain the smoke for a minute or more, and then, with a strong impulse, send it through the nostrils, as the opium smoker does. This ended the enjoyment for that occasion. The pipes were then returned to their sheaths, when a little tea-pot, holding less than half a jiint, with half a dozen cups, each of about the capacity of three teaspoons, was brought by a servant, and a general sipping took the place of smoking. The tea disposed of, the pipes were again resorted to, and thus did they alternate between tobacco and tea. Before rising to separate, the said was introduced and circulated, sometimes beyond the limits of prudence and discretion. These were the occupations of the "lords of creation;" the poor women, mean- while, might be seen, half naked, delving with the hoe or the spade, in the adjacent gardens, under a scorching sun. Sometimes this idle gossipping over tea and the pipe is carried on in the open air, under the shade of some spreading tree . When the poor females are not thus employed in the cultivation of the earth, there is still found work enough for them of some other kind, for their destiny is labor. In every house may be seen the loom for weaving grass cloth, and it is quite a curiosity in its way. It is small, not more than two feet high, and generally is placed in the corner of the room. The shuttle is two or three feet long, so that before it leaves one hand of the weaver it may be grasped by the other. It is but a rude implement, and yet the fine, glossy fiihric wrought by its agency is exceedingly beautiful. What has here been said must be understood as applying to the men who are not of the very lowest class. According to the best observations the Commodore could make, he classified the inhabitants into four grades : these were, first, the high officers of state ; secondly, the priesthood and literary men ; thirdly, the under officers and spies; and lastly the laboring class, (including particularly the fishermen,) by the toil of which last all the rest live ; for it was never seen that any of the classes above named, except the last, ever appeared to have any thing to do, save the spies, and they might be met at every step. These infest every corner and every thi'eshold. If the officers walked the streets, these fellows might be seen preceding or following them, directing all doors to be closed, and the women to keep out of sight. The people, indeed, whenever they were sure of not being seen by some of these vermin, manifested no indisposition to communica- tion and intercourse, and gladly received from the strangers little gratuities and presents, which were taken with a trembling hand and instantly concealed, while their eyes glanced rapidly and furtively from side to side to see that they were unobserved. The Commodore was deeply moved, as indeed were all the gentlemen of the expedition, by the tyranny exercised toward the mass of the people. " God pity these poor creatures !" says the former in his journal : "I have seen much of the world, have observed savage life in many of its conditions ; but never, unless I may except the miserable jjeons in Mexico, have I looked upon such an amount of apparent wretchedness as these squalid slaves would seem to suffer." "The poor, naked creatures, who 220 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. toil from morning till nigHt, know not the relaxation of a Sabbath, nor the rest of an occasional holiday, generally granted by even the most cruel taskmasters. The wages of a field laborer is from three to eight cents per diem ; the mechanic may receive ten. Out of this, he has to provide food, clothing, and shelter for a family, witli which most of the common people are burdened, and it is surprising to see how soon the boys, for we see but little of the girls, are made to labor. In looking into a blacksmith's shop at Napha, I observed a father and two sons making nails ; the elder son, probably ten j'ears old, was using the hammer, while the younger, not more than five, was blowing the bellows, or rather moving the piston of a sort of air jiump, which required some amount of physical exertion. When we entered the shop, neither of the three took the slightest notice of us, but went on with their labor ; even the little boy scarcely lifted his eyes ; and this seeming indifierence, it may be remarked, was the case with laborers and all others whom we met, when they supposed that the eye of a spy was upon them." "Whatever progress we may make in conciliating the higher classes, and we have made considerable, the lower orders of the people dare not, even by a look, evince the slightest emotion ; their stolid and impassive features express nothing but toil and care, and are a sufficient index of their abject condition." " I can conceive of no greater act of humanity than it would be to rescue, if ijossible, these miserable beings from the oppression of their tyrannical rulers." "These poor creatures are the people who have been represented by Captain Basil Hall as so innocent and so happy ! ' ' Well disposed, peaceful^ and naturally amiable, our gentlemen generally believed them to be ; but they were ignorant, and had been long obliged to resort to the weapons of the weak ; they were, therefore, cunning and insincere. Under proper treatment, something might be made of them, but at present, they want the essential element of self-respect. Another obstacle in the way of their improvement is the impossibility of their ever procuring a vested right of ownership in the land. As far as the Commodore could gather information on the subject, it would appear that the soil is held by the government, and its agents are employed to collect and consume its produce. According to the best accounts that could be obtained, the actual cultivator receives not more than two-tenths of the produce. Of the remainder, six- tenths go to the lord of the soil, or ruler, and two-tenths for the expense of supervision of the land, costs of collection, &c. The peasant has thus no stimulus to exertion. Wretched, however, as this system is, and degraded as is the condition of the operative, it is astonishing to see the large returns from agricultural labor. Nowhere do the people better understand the art of producing the largest crops of which the land cultivated is capable ; no matter what may be the character and condition of the soil, or the relative position of the field cultivated. The same is said to be true of all the cultivated portions of the neighboring groups of islands. Every advantage is taken of circumstances, and irrigation is both understood and practised with skill and success. With such a soil and climate as Lew Chew possesses, if all parts of it that might be cultivated were made fields of agricultural labor, it would support a very large population. One of the subjects to which the attention of the Commodore was drawn, was the origin of the population of Lew Chew. Want of sufficient material has not enabled ethnology as yet conclusively to settle this question ; and, of course, the gentlemen of the expedition who attended to this particular had to find their way as best they might. Many speculations have been hazarded on the subject, founded on the very limited observations of the few Europeans who have visited the islands. Of Captain Hall we have already spoken. " The description of Captain Basil Hall," says the Commodore, " is a mere romance ; the production of the inventive ORIGIN OF POPULATION OF LEW CHEW. 221 brain of a writer not very scrupulous of historical truth ; and the account of Doctor McLeod, of the Alceste, is not much nearer to accuracy. Captains Beechey and Belcher, surveying officers of the British navy, have visited Great Lew Chew since those just named, and their statements may be considered as much more worthy of confidence ; but, after all, such are the difficulties in the way, that they had not much, if any, better means of acquiring a knowledge of the history, laws, and civil institutions of this singular people, than had those who preceded them. Difficulties have also beset us in our investigations, and all the facts we may learn are but contributions on a subject yet open to, and demanding more thorough investigation. We throw what we can gather into the common heap." As far as the Lew Chewans themselves bear testimony to their origin, they claim, like the Chinese, to have their descent from a divine source. According to Chow-Hwang, a Chinese writer, who was sent to Lew Chew in 1757, as an envoy from China, and who on his return jiublished an account of the island, " the islanders declare that the original progenitors of the Lew Chewans were two, a man and a woman. They had five children ; the oldest was a son, named Teen-Sun, (Offspring of Heaven,) who was the first master or ruler of the nation; the second son acted the part of his minister, and the third constituted the people. The older daughter, for the protection of the country, took the place of the God of Heaven, and the younger personified the God of the Sea. Teen-Sun and his descendants having maintained the government for 17,802 years, were at length succeeded by Shunteen, a branch of the then ruling family of Japan. This occurred about A. D. 1200, when the Ming dynasty arose in China. Three kings ruled in Lew Chew; one was styled ' King of the Central Hills ;' the second ' King of the Southern Hills ;' and the third ' King of the Northern Hills.' All were tributary, and reigned by permission of 'the Son of Heaven.' At length the first became master of the whole country, which has ever since remained under one king, always acknowledging himself a tributary of the Chinese empire."* Klaproth, professing to follow Chinese and Japanese annals, gives an account agreeing pretty well with the foregoing by Chow-Hwang, and says further, that the race of kings reigning in Lew Chew is related to the imperial family of Japan ; that both China and Japan claim the sovereignty, and that the Lew Chewans pay tribute to both. As to the three kings of the "central," "northern," and "southern" hills, respectively, there is something in the discoveries of our exploring parties that may seem to give countenance to the truth of that portion of the story. It will be remembered by the reader that the explorers reported the discovery of the ruins of a castle or palace at Nagagusko ; the ruins of another were afterwards found, of which an account will be given on a future page, and these were no doubt the residences of the northern and southern kings, while the third at Shui, perfect, and still used as the royal residence, was the palace of the " King of the Central Hills." The tradi- tions of Lew Chew even to this day (as our officers found) preserve the memory of the former existence of distinct sovereignties on the island. Chow-Hwang claims, as we have seen, sovereignty over the island at this day for the Chinese Emperor ; and one of the points which appeared difficult to determine was the precise relation ' which Lew Chew bore to China and Japan respectively. Tliat a tribute was sent in Chinese junks to China annually from Lew Chew seemed to be an established fact, yet the officials of 'Chinese Repository for July, 1837, vol. VI. 222 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Lew Ctew did not appear to be Chinese, and the common language of the country is not that of the celestial empire, though Chinese is understood and spoken by some of the Lew Chewans who are educated. As to any rights Japan may have, all we can say is, that the Japanese commissioners informed Commodore Perry at a subsequent period, when he met them in con- ference on the proposed points of a treaty, "that Lew Chew was a distant dependency, over which the crown [of Japan] had limited control." It is also certain that most of the trade to Lew Chew is carried on by Japanese junks. The testimony of the Lew Chewans themselves is contained in the following extract of a letter addressed to Commodore Perry by the officials of Napha : ' ' Since the days of the Ming dynasty it has been our great pride to be ranked as one of the outer depen- dencies of China, and she has for ages given our king his investiture, and we have returned whatever we could prepare for tribute ; nothing of great importance to our nation has trans- pired but it has been made known to the Emperor. Whenever the time came for us to send up the tribute, we there [in China] jjurchased silk and pongee to make suitable official robes and caps for ourselves, and selected medicines and other things for the use of the state ; and if they were not enough for our own use, then through the island of Tuchara we have intercourse with a friendly and near nation, and exchange for our productions, as black sugar, saki, grass- cloth, and other articles, things which we send to China as tribute." The friendly and near nation alluded to is Japan. Dr. Bettelheim, who lived some years in Lew Chew, believed, for several good reasons, that " the country, though independent to a certain extent, (its ruler being permitted, for a good contribution to Pekin, to assume the high-sounding title of king,) yet is, to all ends and pur- poses, an integral part of Japan." His reasons were briefly these : 1. "There is a Japanese garrison quartered in Napha." It must not, however, be under- stood that they show themselves openly, for the Lew Chewans pretend that they are an unwar- like people, without military arms or accoutrements ; but Dr. Bettelheim accidentally came upon a part of the garrison employed in cleaning their arms. 2. The trade of Lew Cliew is entirely with Japan. If the island were a Chinese dependency this would not be so. Japan sends annually thirty or forty junks to Lew Chew, of about four hundred and fifty tons each ; only one Lew Chewan junk goes annually to China, and every alternate year one more, said to carry tribute, but not a single Chinese junk is ever allowed to enter Napha. 3. The Japanese are to be found in numbers in Lew Chew, and stroll about as uninterruptedly as the natives ; they intermarry with the Lew Chewans, cultivate lands, build houses in Napha, and, in short, seem to be perfectly at home. But a Chinaman is as much hunted and spied after, and pelted, and insulted as any other foreigner. This is strikingly confirmed by the journal of one of our officers, who remarks, from facts that he was witness to : " They [the Lew Chewans] are evidently quite as much opposed to intercourse with China as with all other nations, notwithstanding the similarity, if not the identihj, of their religion, literature, and many of their manners and customs. Indeed, they are de facto and de jure a part of Japan, and their motto is, 'uncompromising non-intercourse with all the world.' " 4. In all Dr. Bettelheim's intercourse with the Lew Chew authorities there were always present, at least, two individuals, who, it was obvious, had the management of the meeting and controlled the Lew Chew officials. These he conjectured to be Japanese inspectors. 5. The language, dress, customs, virtues, and vices of Lew Chew correspond to those of Japan, EDUCATION IN LEW CHEW. 223 thus establishing a ^jWma/acie relationsliip. Of these the language is to the ethnologist the most satisfactory proof, and of the researches of some of our gentlemen, on this point, we shall speak more particularly in its appropriate place, on a future page. The English Bishop of Victoria, who, in the discharge of his official duties, visited Lew Chew in 1850, thus speaks on this subject: "On the whole, it seems far the most probable opinion that Lew Chew was peopled by a colony from Japan, to which people their physiognomy, language, and customs have a close affinity ; and that to China they owe the far more important debt of their partial civilization and literature. The government of the country appears to consist in a grievous oligarchy of literati immediately dependent upon Japan. They stand in great fear of the latter country, and look to it, and not to China, for protection in time of need. They have an historical tradition that a few hundred years ago, during the Ming dynasty, a war broke out between China and Japan, during which the former, wanting to detach Lew Chew from the latter^ raised it to the dignity of a separate kingdom. In token of vassalage, every new king receives a formal investiture from a Chinese officer, specially deputed and sent for that purpose from Foo Chow ; to which city, also, a biennial tribute-junk is sent from Lew Chew. At the Tartar invasion of China, and the commencement of the present foreign dynasty, above two hundred years ago, about thirty-six Chinese families, unwilling to conform to the Tartar changes of costume and rule, emigrated to Lew Chew, the descendants of whom have become, generally, the schoolmasters of the country, and amalgamated with the people." The Commodore, from such observation as he could make, thought that the Lew Chewans were a mixture, made up possibly of Japanese, (who preponderated,) Chinese, Formosans, and, perhaps, Malays ; and that the island, commencing its population at a very early period, from some accident, such as shipwreck, had, from time to time, added to its inhabitants from the adjacent regions, until the whole was fused into the present stock. In personal appearance the Lew Chewans did not seem to him to be unequivocally either Chinese or Japanese in aspect. They are not a handsome people, nor yet can they be called decidedly ugly. Their complexion is rather Chinese, and they have black eyes and hair ; the latter of which, by the way, they do not dress after the Chinese fashion ; for, instead, of long plaited tails hanging down behind, it is gathered, with great care and neatness, into a knot on the top of the head, and there fastened with a pin of silver or other metal — the nature of the metal used indicating the rank of the wearer. As to education, the opportunity afforded of acquiring information was necessarily limited, and the best account the Commodore could obtain on that subject was fi'om Dr. Bettelheim, who had been for some years resident on the island. "In Shui," says he, "I have seen a building with an inscription, perhaps well rendered, 'University,' on the door. In Napha is a school for proficients in Confucian lore. But in general, learning — as far as it goes, i. c. a mere knowledge of Chinese characters and of some of their classical books — is diffused by the elder instructing the younger ; a kind of Lancasterian system, carried on in the whole country, in almost every house. Still, there are schools beside, and ^likewise the Kung-Kwas, government houses in Napha, as well as Tumai, serve as schools. In the Kung-Kwas, however, no teacher is appointed ; but in the out-buildings usually added to every Confucian temple, I found often children assembled under the superintendance of a master, who seems to have the benefit of free residence and the adjoining grounds for salary." "Aping China in everything, Lew Chew has also its three yearly examinations, which, for the time being, make quite a stir in the learned 224 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. world, tut hold out no prospect for higli station, as in China. At most, the fortunate candidate gets, beside a good fill of honor, a rice pension or a schoolmastership. The Samuns are also delegated, hy turns, to teach in the country schools. By all these means the knowledge of the Chinese character is pretty widely diffused among the peojile, the women, only, being entirely without any literary culture." As to what is taught, all the books, as well as learning, in Lew Chew come from China, whither, yearly, some of the native youths of the higher class are sent for education. The Chinese character is in general use in Lew Chew ; but the inhabitants have also (says Dr. Bettelheim) a running hand of their own, which, he thinks, is the real ancient Chinese hiero- glyphic, "awfully crippled." In some manuscripts which he saw in this writing, every Lew Chew character had opposite to it the modern legible Chinese sign ; and many Lew Chewans do not understand the character at all. They are, however, verj' proud of it, and say it is a "language" of their own ; though^ as far as could be ascertained, the signs used do not at all express the sounds of the spoken Lew Chew language, which is, undoubtedly, a dialect of Japanese. Neither is this writing, as has been said, identical with the Japanese Mrakana. Most of the books seen in Lew Chew were in the ordinary Chinese character. The Japanese character, however, is ixnderstood ; for writings were seen, made by Lew Chewans, in the Katalmna. With such apparatus for learning it may well be supposed that the attainments of the masses, except in those matters which are communicated orally, must be limited. The Lew Chewans have no literature of their own, nor has any author, so far as we know, ever ajipeared among them. The Confucian classics of China are the text books, and these, says the Bishop of Victoria, "consist more in an apparently mechanical repetition of sounds than in any mental recreation from the sentiments contained in those literary monuments of a venerable antiquity." The reader will probably be somewhat interested to know something of the religious opinions of these distant islanders, and of the circumstances under which Dr. Bettelheim became a resident among them. As to the first, it maybe said, in general terms, that the religion of the natives seems to he a mixture of Confucianism and Buddliism. But it is best to let them on this head speak for themselves. When the Bishop of Victoria was at the island, in 1850, the captain of H. B. M. steamer, the Reynard, received two communications from the native authorities, written in Chinese, in the latter of which they thiis speak: "Now, as to the religion of the Lord of Heaven," [tliis is the phrase by which they designate Christianity,] "we have, from ancient times, attended to the doctrines of Confucius, and found therein principles wherewith to cultivate personal morality, and to regulate our families, each according to our circumstances and condition in life. We endeavor, also, to carry out the government of the country according to the rules and maxims which have been handed down to us by the sages, and are calculated to secure lasting peace and tranquility. Besides, our gentry, as well as the common people, are without natural capacity ; and, although they have attended exclusively to Confucianism, they have as yet been unable to arrive at jierfection in it. If they should now, also, have to study, in addition, the religion of the Lord of Heaven, such an attempt would surpass our ability, and the heart does not incline to it." On the compound of Confucianism and Buddhism many superstitions have been grafted. Filial reverence here, as in Cliina, is the chief of virtues, and, theoretically, at least, underlies as a basis the system of government, which is professedly patriarchal. This, as the Bishop of Victoria has well remarked, is the great source of slavery, and opens a wide door for the CHRISTIAN MISSION IN LEW CHEW. 225 grossest tyranny on the part of the so-called paternal rulers. How far these poor and oppressed beings are in a condition to be impressed by the truths of Christianity it would be difficult to say ; but, from the early experience of Dr. Bettelheim, there is reason to think that the common people, if left to themselves, would be willing listeners to the Christian teacher ; and the benevolence of gospel principles would probably contrast so strongly and advantageously with the cruelty and oppression under which they groan, that we cannot but believe tliere are few spots of paganism where, under God's blessing, efforts to Christianize would probably be more successful than in Lew Chew, were the people left to freedom of thought and action. As to the establishment of Dr. Bettelheim as a missionary in the island, its history, as we gather from the Bishop of Victoria, is briefly this: Not many years ago, certain pious officers of the British navy, (among whom was prominent Lieutenant Clifford, who, we believe, visited the island with Captain Basil Hall,) formed an association among themselves, under the name of the " Lew Chew Naval Mission," for the purpose of sending Christian missionaries to the island. The missionary whom they first sent was Dr. Bettelheim, a converted Jew, and by birth a Hungarian, not, however, in holy orders, but a christian layman. He had become a British subject by naturalization, and the husband of an English woman. He possessed many qualifications for his work. He was a physician, a good linguist, with great energy of mind and activity of body, and most indefatigable perseverance. He possessed, also, a boldness of nature, which caused him fearlessly to assert his rights as a British subject, and, perhaps, not always with discretion. Two missionaries of the Koman church were, at first, in Lew Chew with him, one of whom was made titular bishop of Samos and vicar general of Japan ; but these, in utter despair of success, abandoned their mission, and left the island, while Dr. Bettelheim still abode at his post, and never relaxed his labors. Commodore Perry found him at Napha, as we have already related, and he had been there since May, 1846. The opposition to Dr. Bettelheim's labors did not come from the common people. At first his communications with them were freely allowed, and they seemed well disposed to be taught. But the authorities soon took the alarm, and, as there is reason to think, on political grounds merely. They were afraid of their Japanese masters, who, as they well knew, would tolerate no show of Christianity in the kingdom, and would look upon its introduction into Lew Chew as the first step toward breaking down the exclusive system of Japan. At first, therefore, the authorities at Napha used mild persuasion with Dr. Bettelheim to prevail upon him to leave the island ; then followed less equivocal marks of opposition — the people were forbidden to go near him or to remain with him if he came among them ; and, finally, a system of insult, annoyance, ceaseless espionage, and intimidation, was adopted, in the hope of driving him away. But all these means were in vain. The missionary stayed in Lew Chew, and at the time of the Commodore's arrival, he and the inhabitants were living in a condition of undisguised hostility toward each other. It was soon but too apparent that the presence of the missionary, however meritorious he might be, seemed to promise but little for the extension of Christianity in the island at that period. A renewed opportunity of observation on this second visit enabled the gentlemen of the expedition to catch some additional features of social life, as well as to obtain further insight into manners and customs. There is a gradation in the rank of officers analogous to that existing in China, and here, as there, manifested by some peculiarity of dress. The great distinctive mark, however, between the higher classes and the general population consists in the hair-pin. The crown of the head, to the extent of two or three inches, is shaved, and into the vacant space the residue of the hair is all drawn, and plaited somewhat into the form of a 29 J 226 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. circular comb. A free use is made of oil and lamp-black in arranging it. Two large hair-pins are then passed through the mass, to keep it in place, and the front end of the lower pin is finished with a head in the form of a star. The different metals of which the pins are made indicate the rank of the wearer. They are of gold, silver, brass, lead, and pewter. The lower class generally wear brass, though the very poorest use sometimes the metals last named. The literati or dignitaries use gold and silver. The pin, therefore, tells the rank at once. The lowest order of the people consists of the public slaves, (oo-hang,) who have no civil rights nor personal freedom, and must obey the slightest beck of the literati. Their condition is one of utter degradation. The intermediate class next above these is composed of the peasants or field laborers, (Ha-koo-shoo.) These farm the country, paying to the government one-half of the products in lieu of taxes, and paying also an exorbitant rent. We have already stated that two-tenths is all the laborer gets of the results of his toil. By this toil the literary class, which never works at all, is supported. The highest grade in the lower class is made up of the messengers, spies, menial oflicers, &c., in the service of government, and includes also the small traders and mechanics. This caste is known by the name of We-dae-o-gang . When doing duty for the government these receive no wages, nothing but their food, and the distant hope of promotion to the honor of substituting for the brass pin one of silver. The rich some- Tombs in Lew Clujw. times purchase from a poor man his services for life, (a system of slavery,) but more generally for a term of years. The price of a common slave of this kind is from two to ten dollars. Great respect is shown for the dead, and tombs elaborate and costly attest this feeling. They are constructed of stone, and often form a conspicuous feature in the landscape. Indeed, upon iAi i kk t-.'-m^i ■^^^ Jag -JCJi'dfc.'.t:'. .. biDwnJ^Licd'hyrteicE LEW CHEW COSTUMES, MIDDLE CLASS CLANSHIP. COIN IN LEW CHEW. 227 the first approach of the squadron, their size, color, and position on the hill-sides caused them, at a distance, to be mistaken for dwellings. A sort of clanship seems to obtain in each district, and the people of one village seldom marry with the inhabitants of another. The agriculturists, and indeed the common people generally, appear to know but few physical wants. They have sweet potatoes in abundance, and these, with a miserable hut to sleep in, seem to bound their very limited desires. Many of the poor are fishermen, but the larger number is composed of mechanics, emjjloyed chiefly in turning wooden implements and covering them with lacquer. The women commonly perform this latter branch, except as to the painting ; this is done by men. The shops are few, and the articles sold are chiefly paper, rice, tea, sweetmeats, and clothing. The Lew Chewans always insisted that they had no current coin, and that their trade was always in a barter of specific objects. This may be in the main correct, as they appear to have but little metallic currency, and the Commodore endeavored in vain to procure from the authorities some of their coin in exchange for ours. They solemnly assured him they had no national currency; and, though they are very much in the habit, from motives of supposed policy, of exaggerating their poverty^ this statement is probably true. They know, however, very well the value of the Chinese coin, and received it from our pursers in the settlement of accounts. The vegetable and animal productions of Lew Chew are abundant enough. The sugar-cane thrives, and they have a rude mode of making sugar. They export of this, as well as of saki, an intoxicating liquor distilled from rice, and very strong ; they make also tobacco in considerable quantities, and smoking is a universal habit. Some cotton is also grown, and indigo is raised in the island. They also make salt by evapora- tion ; and, were the island in other hands, its agricultural productions would support a large population, and furnish a surplus for exportation. Fowls, ducks, geese, pigs, goats, and a small species of black ox, are all very abundant. There is a small but active and tough breed of horses, and the wild boar is found in the forests. The general impression left on the minds of the gentlemen of the expedition was, that Lew Chew was a beautiful island, abundantly sup- plied, and needed but a good government to form, so far as bodily comfort is concerned, as pleasant a residence as could be desired. Tombs in Lew Chew. 228 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. CHAPTER XII. DEPARTURE FROM NAPHA FOR JAPAV. ^COURSE OF THE SHIPS. OHO-SIMA. ISLAND SEE>f BY COMMAJfDER GLTNN, PROBABLT OHO-SIMA. CLEOPATRA ISLANDS. CURRENTS. FOURTH OF JULT ON BOARD —APPROACH TO CAPE IDZU. SQUADRON, LED BT THE SUSaUEHANN.!, ENTERS THE BAT OF TEDO. ROCK ISLAND. HAZT ATMOSPHERE OF JAPAN, SDRPRISE OF THE JAPANESE AT SIGHT OF THE STEAMERS MOVING AGAINST WIND AND TIDE. BAT OF SAGAMI. — APPEARANCE OF THE COAST AND COUNTRY INLAND. FUSI-JAMA. SHIPS MADE READY FOR ACTION. FLEET OF JAPANESE BOATS PUT OFF FROM THE SHORE. LEPT BEHIND BY SQUADRON. BAY OF DRAGA.— ^OPPOSITE COAST OF AWA. JAPAVESE FORTS. SQUADRON COMES TO ANCHOR IN THE BAY OF URAGA. SOUNDINGS ON APPUOACHING THE ANCHORAGE. JAPANESE GUARD-BOATS PUT OFF.- — NO ONE PERMITTED TO COME ON BOARD THE SHIPS. APPEARANCE OF GUARD-BOATS AND CREWS. SKILL OF THE JAPANESE IN MANAGING THEIR BOATS. — ^GUVRD-EOAT COMES ALONGSIDE OF THE MISSISSIPPI, AND JAPANESE FUNCTIONARY DEMANDS TO COME ON BOARD. NOT PERMITTED. — NOTICE IN THE FRENCH LANGUAGE, ORDERING THE SHIPS AWAY, HELD UP TO BE READ. INTERPRETERS DIRECTED TO INFORM THE JAP.ANESE THAT THE COMMODORE WOULD CONFER WITH NO ONE BUT THE HIGHEST OFFICIAL IN URAGA. JAPANESE REPLIED THAT THEY HAD THE VICE GOVERNOR ON BOARD. THIS OFFICER AND HIS INTERPRETER ALLOWED TO COME ON BOARD THE SUSQUEHANNA. NOT PERMITTED TO SEE THE COMMODORE. CONFERENCE WITH LIEUTENANT CONTEE, WHO EXPLAINS THAT THE AMERICANS HAVE COME ON A FRIENDLY MISSION AND THAT THE COMMODORE BEARS A LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES TO THE EMPEROR. DESIRES THE APPOINTMENT OF .\N OFFICER OF SUITABLE RANK TO RECEIVE IT FROM THE COMMODORE. COMMODORE REFUSES TO GO TO NAGASAKI. INFORMS THE JAPANESE OFFICIALS THAT IF THE GUARD-BOATS ARE NOT IMMEDIATELY REMOVED HE WILL DISPERSE THEM BY FORCE.— THE BOATS ARE WITHDRAWN. VICE GOVERNOR RETURNS TO THE SHORE, PROMISING FURTHER COMMUNICATION ON THE MORROW. POLICY RESOLVED ON BY THE COMMODORE. METEOROLOGICAL PHENOMENON.— VISIT ON THE NEXT DAY FROM THE GOVERNOR OF URAGA. CONFERENCE BETWEEN IIIM AND COMMANDERS BUCHANAN AND ADAMS. SECOND REFUSAL OF THE COMMODORE TO GO TO NAGASAKI. DETERMINATION EXPRESSED TO DELIVER THE LETTER THERE, AND, IF NECESSARY, IN THE CITY OF YEDO ITSELF.- — GOVERNOR PROPOSES TO REFER THE HATTER TO YEDO. COMMODORE ASSENTS AND ALLOWS THREE DATS FOR AN ANSWER. SURVEY BY THE SQUADROn's BOATS OF THE BAY OF URAGA, AND ULTIMATELY OF THE BAY OF YEUO. when they might be I AKLY on the morning of the 2d of July, 1853, i after many unforeseen delays, the Commodore departed from Napha with four vessels only, the two steamers, the Susquehanna, his flag-ship, and the Mississippi, the Saratoga, and the Plymouth sloops-of-war. The Supply was left behind, and the Caprice dispatched to Shanghai. Tiiis was but a poor show of ships, in comparison J with the more imposing squadron of twelve vessels which had been so repeatedly promised. But as none of these additional vessels had arrived, and as no calculation could be made as to looked for, the Commodore resolved to sail with the inferior force, which he COURSE OF THE SHIPS. OHO-SIMA. 229 trusted would so far answer his necessities as not to interfere seriously with the great ohject of the expedition, now fairly set out for Japan. The advantages of steam were fully appreciated in the opportunity it gave of making a uniformly steady and direct course of ascertained speed — advantages in which the sailing vessels were made to participate ; for the Saratoga was taken in tow hy the Susquehanna, as the Plymouth was by the Mississippi. The Commodore's ship led the van out of Napha and awaited, some five miles away, between the gi'oup of islands situated off the harbor and the southwestern extremity of the island, the coming up of her consort^ as did the Mississijjpi for hers. Hawsers then being passed from the steamers to tlie two sloops-of-war, they were respectively taken in tow, the squadron fairly started and began the voyage to Yedo. All seemed very well satisfied to get away from Lew Chew. The picturesque interests of the island were, for the time being, thoroughly exhausted, and the dull realities of life began to weigh rather heavily uj)on the visitors. Beside, the great object of the expedition was still before them, and anticipation naturally begat impatience. The weather, too, had become sultry and excessively oppressive, for the heat had reached the high degree of 88° Fahrenheit in the coolest part of the Susquehanna while she lay at anchor in the harbor. The people of Lew Chew, moreover, had not apparently been very much won over by the blandishments of their courteous visitors. The supplies with which they at first furnished the squadron had been gradually falling off, and their consent to receive payment for them seemed to be the principal change in their policy effected by the long sojourn of six weeks. Still some progress had been made. Their system of espionage had become less public and intrusive, although some suspected that it was as alert as ever though more concealed. On getting clear of the harbor and stretching beyond the shelter of the southeastern extremity of the island, a strong wind was encountered from the east, and as the steamers were deep, it was thought advisable to stand off on the port tack in order to get well clear of the land, for the vessels in tow were dragging them to leeward notwithstanding the power of the engines. In the course of the day, as there was every prospect of weathering the eastern part of the island, the ships were put on the other tack^ and their course directed for Japan. The track taken by the squadron east of the chain of islands which stretch from Formosa to Lew Chew, and thence to Japan, (very properly called by Blunt the "'Southern," " Middle," and "Northern" groups,) has been very rarely traversed by the ships of modern nations ; while the islands on the eastern side of the chain are unknown to our present navigators. The French admiral, Cecille, in 18-4G, employed one or more of his squadron in the exploration of the islands about Lew Chew, and along the western side of the northern group; but according to the best authorities, to which Von Siebold, among others, adds his testimony, the eastern side of the latter islands has never been visited by any modern navigator. The principal island of the northern group is called by the Japanese Oho-sima, and by the Chinese Tatao ; these words meaning in their respective languages, " great island." It is about the size, includino- one or two adjoining islands in the estimate, of Great Lew Chew, and is probably governed by similar laws. It has one chief city and several towns, and the country is supposed to be highly cultivated. Von Siebokl states that the island contains several good harbors, and it is undoubtedly, in every respect, of sufficient interest to claim an investigation. The Commodore resolved, at some subsequent period, to send some vessel of the squadron to make a proper survey. 230 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. The Susquehanna and the accompanying ships were prohahly the first either of European or American vessels that ever passed along the entire extent of the northern group. Von Siebold asserts that Broughton saw the northeast point, and that Captain Gruerin, of the French corvette Sabine, traced the western shore in 1848. It was probably Oho-sima, the principal island of the group, that was seen by Commander Glynn in 184:8, and which he supposed to be a new discovery. The islets which he sperks of having seen, bearing N.N.W., were the Cleopatra islands, examined two years before by one of the vessels of Admiral Cecille's squadron. Von Siebold's charts, appended to his great work on Japan, and compiled by him, show these islands pretty accurately laid down, and it was found that the observations made on board the Susquehanna gave such bearings of the principal headlands of Oho-sima as correspond tolerably well with the position as given by Von Siebold. A current is said to be continually setting from these islands to the northward and eastward; or, as the islanders say, it always goes to Japan and never comes back. This was, however, found to be of no great strength during the passage of the Susquehanna, although it must be acknowledged to be a matter of difficulty to estimate in a steamer the rapidity and direction of currents, as they are generally over-logged, or in other words, siirpassed in speed by the rate of going of the vessel. There is, moreover, another difficulty in consequence of the backward movement given to the water by the evolution of the paddle-wheels of a steamship. The third day of the voyage, being the fourth day of July, 1853, brought with it a lively remem- brance of home, as it was the seventy-seventh anniversary of our national holiday. The day opened fresh and pleasant, and the men were prepared to get up some amateur theatricals, and otherwise to celebrate the occasion ; but the weather becoming unfavorable, and other circum- stances interfering, it was deemed advisable, much to the disappointment of the sailors, to dispense with the show by which they had intended to give exhibition to their patriotism. The occasion, however, was duly honored by the firing of a salute of seventeen guns from each vessel of the squadron, and by the serving of an additional ration of grog to Jack, while the officers brought to bear also the resources of their various messes, to give due enjoyment and impres- siveness to the day. All on board were allowed to feel that it was a holiday, in a respite from the usual muster at general quarters and exercises at the great guns and small arms, which had been kept up during the passage with great strictness and regularity, in order that the squadron might be prepared for any event on its arrival at Japan. The weather, although generally warm, varied, and thus, while some days were excessively hot and oppressive, others were tolerably cool and pleasant. The winds occasionally blew with considerable freshness, and mostly from the east, but frequently there was hardly a breath of air to be felt, and, consequently, with a temperature which reached 88° in the coolest place on deck, all on board sufi'ered greatly from the intense heat. And, indeed, the still heat and clear atmosphere which were experienced, even on a close approach to the shores of Japan, did not seem to confirm what has been said, and what was expected, of the cool and foggy climate of that country. At sunset on Thursday, the 7th of July, the squadron was, according to observation, about forty miles from Cape Negatsuo, or Idsu, as it is otherwise called. In consequence of this proximity, the heads of the ships were put off shore from midnight until four o'clock next morning, when, not only the cape was seen from the masthead, but several of the islands to the eastward, called by Von Siebold Goebroken Eilander, (the Broken islands,) as well as the APPROACH TO CAPE IDZU. 231 larger two of the group, bearing the Japanese names of Tosi-sima and Likine-sima. The morning was fine, though the atmosphere was so hazy that there was but an indistinct view of the outline of the precipitous coast. Through the mist, however, the bold promontory of Idsu could be seen rising loftily out of the sea, and stretching back to the interior of Nippon in a crowd of mountainous elevations. The Susquehanna's course, as the leading ship, was laid directly for the entrance to the bay of Yedo, and as she passed the precipitous land of Cape Idsu she came up with a low, barren, and apparently uninhabited islet of about three-fourths of a mile in length, known as Rock island. There is a passage between this and the promontory which bounds the main land, and, although broken with several rocky islets, it is navigable. The United States ship-of-the-line Columbus took that course, although the other, on the outer side of Rock island, the one pursued by the Morrison, was preferred, and was accordingly taken by the Commodore, who passed within a mile and a half of the island. As the squadron sailed up the coast some eight or ten junks hove in sight, and two or three of them wei"e observed soon to change their course and to turn back toward the shore, as if to announce the arrival of strangers. The morning seemed to confirm the reputed character of the Japanese climate, for the atmosphere was so thick and hazy that the extent of view was unfortunately very much restricted^ and it was not possible to get a distinct outline of the shore until the squadron came to anchor off the city of Uraga. The steamer, in spite of a wind, moved on with all sails furled, at the rate of eight or nine knots, much to the astonishment of the crews of the Japanese fishing junks gathered along the shore or scattered over the surface of the mouth of the bay, who stood up in their boats, and were evidently expressing the liveliest surprise at the sight of the first steamer ever beheld in Japanese waters. As the day advanced the sun came out with a brighter lustre, glistening upon the broad sails of the junks within view, and dispelling the mist, through the openings of which the lofty summits and steep lava-scarred sides of the promontory of Idzu and its mountain chains, now left rapidly behind, could occasionally be discovered. Crossing the mouth of the bay of Sagami, with Vries' island, or Oo-sima, as it is called, on the starboard, the ships moved in toward Cape Sagami. The Great Fusi, now, as the fog occasionally lifted, rose to view behind the head of the bay of Sagami, and its cone-like summit was disclosed, rising to an enormous height, far inland, and covered with a white cap, but whether of snow or of fleecy clouds it was impossible to distinguish. The boats showed themselves more cautiously as the vessels entered the bay ; but one was overtaken by the steamers, and those on board seemed in a terrible state of excitement, letting drop its broad sails, and taking to their oars, which they used with all tlieir might, as they were evidently anxious to give a wide berth to the squadron. As the ships neared the bay, signals were made from the Commodore, and instantly the decks were cleared for action, the guns placed in position and shotted, the ammunition arranged, the small arms made ready, sentinels and men at their posts, and, in short, all the preparations made, usual before meeting an enemy. About noon Cape Sagami was reached, when the squadron came too, for about ten minutes, and a signal was made for all captains to go on board the flag-ship and receive their orders from the Commodore. This done, the vessels now continued their course and soon came up with the peninsula of Sagami, at the south end of which a town was observed. When the squadron liad approached within two miles of the land a fleet of large boats, amounting to more than a dozen, pushed off in the direction of the shipSj 232 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. with the seeming intention of visiting them. They were, however, not waited for, and were soon left behind, much puzzled, doubtless, by the rajiid progress of the steamers against the wind. The boats appeared to be fully manned, but did not seem to be armed, although each of them bore a large banner with certain characters inscribed on it, which led to the conjecture that they were government vessels of some kind. The coasting vessels increased in numbers within the bay, and wei-e sometimes so near that their construction and rig could be plainly made out. Their hulls rose forward in a high beaked prow, and aft, in a lofty ])oop, while a single mast, secured by fore and back stays, rose from the centre of the vessel and was rigged with a large square sail made of canvas ; there were three other smaller sails, two at the bow and one at the stern. On passing Cape Sagami, at the entrance of the bay, the shores were observed to rise in precipitous cliffs, which connected landward with undulating hills. Deep ravines, green with rich verdure, divided the steep slopes and opened into small expanses of alluvial land, washed by the waters of the bay into the form of inlets, about the borders of which were grouped various Japanese villages. The uplands were beautifully varied with cultivated fields and tufted woods, while far behind rose the mountains, height upon height, in the inland distance. The entrance to the bay seemed well fortified, and the hills and projecting headlands of Sagami were formidable with forts, the guns of which, however, wore silent, notwithstanding the threatening entrance of the strange ships. The distant shores of the province of Awa, on the east, rising opposite to Sagami in a lofty peak, and stretching beyond in picturesque summits, was still more mountainous and bore fewer marks of cultivation and a less formidable appearance, being apparently destitute of fortifications. As the squadron passed through the straits into the inner bay of Uraga the numerous fishing boats hurried out of the way, and their crews, when they fancied themselves at a sufiiciently safe distance, rested upon their oars and gazed with an anxious look at the strangers. At about five o'clock in the afternoon the squadron came to anchor off the city of Uraga, on the western side of the bay of Yedo, the sloops-of-war (the wind being favorable) having been cast loose a little while previous, and the four vessels took up their positions, as had been directed, opposite the shore. Just before letting go the anchors the weather cleared up, and the lofty cone of Fusi was more distinctly visible, showing high above the accompan)'ing range of mountains which extend inland. It was estimated to be eight or ten thousand feet in height, and its position W. ^ N. from Uraga, at a distance of fifty or sixty miles. As the ships proceeded to their anchorage the lead was kept going every moment, and as a constant depth of twenty- five fathoms was found the vessels kept on their headway, rounding, at moderate speed, the elevation or cliff, within which is situated the bight of Uraga. They continued sounding and moving on slowly and cautiously until the squadron had nearly reached within a mile and a half of the promontory guarding the inner entrance of the bay of Yedo, at a distance of a mile further than any foreign vessel had ever advanced, when two guns were fired from a neigh- boring fort, and a ball of smoke in the air showed that a rocket had been discharged. Tlie order was at once given to let go the anchor ; but as the depth of twenty-five fathoms was still found, the steamers first closed in a littlemore with the shore and then anchored. Previous to anchoring, a number of Japanese guard-boats had been observed coming off from the land in pursuit, but the Commodore had given express orders, both by word and signal, forbidding the admission of any one on board either of the ships 1 ut his own; and even as to ANCHORAGE IN THE BAY OF DRAGA. 233 the flag-sliip, lie had commanded that not more than three persons, at one time, and those having business, shouM be allowed to come on boaftl. It had heretofore been the practice of ships-of-war to admit these jjcople indiscriminately to their decks. When the Columbus was in the bay of Yedo, there were many hundred Japanese on board of her at one time, who partook of the hospitalities of the officers without hesitation, and made themselves quite at home ; but when they were spoken to about going on shore, answered by signs that it was impossible. The Commodore had, therefore, pre-determined to exercise an equal degree of exclusiveness with themselves, and to permit the Japanese functionaries to communicate only and directly with the Susquehanna. Several of the commanders in the Japanese boats signified by signs some dissatisfaction at not being permitted to come on board the ships; but the Commodore's orders were strictly obeyed. On dropping the anchor^ another gun was heard from one of the forts on shore, and when the squadron had assumed its line of anchorage, commanding with its guns the entire ranges of batteries and two considerable towns, a large number of the guard-boats came from all directions, evidently prepared to take their stations around the ships, as the Japanese crews had a supply of provisions, water, clothing, sleeping mats^ and other requisites for a long stay. The Commodore, however, had fully determined beforehand that they should not thus surround the ships. They made several attempts to get alongside and on board of the Saratoga; their tow-lines, with which they made fast to any part of the shi]^, were unceremo- niously cast off. They attempted to climb up by the chains, but the crew was ordered to prevent them, and the sight of jiikes, cutlasses, and pistols, checked them, and when they found that our officers and men were very much in earnest, they desisted from their attempts to board. These guard-boats struck every one with admiration of the beauty of their models, which, by the way, resembled in a remarkable degree that of the yacht America. They were constructed of unpainted wood, with very shai-p bows, a broad beam, a slightly tapering stern, and a clean run. They were propelled with great swiftness through, or rather over, the water, for they seemed to skim upon its surface rather than to divide it. The crews, numbering in some of the larger boats thirty or more, were tall and muscular men, whose tawny frames were naked, with the exception of a cloth about their waists. Toward niglit, however, the men clothed themselves with loose gowns, some of red and others of blue, with hanging sleeves, upon which were white stripes meeting in an angle at the shoulders. On their backs were emblazoned coats of arms, or some insignia, in black and other colors. Most of them were bareheaded and showed the hair to have been shaved on the crown, while that on the sides had been allowed to grow long and was worn plastered with some species of ointment and fastened up into a knot on the bald spot upon the top of the head. A few, however, wore caps of bamboo, in shape like a shallow basin inverted, and reminding one of Mambrino's helmet. In some of the boats the men bore tall poles, surmounted by a cruciform ornament, which seemed to indicate some military office. The men in authority, wore light lacquered hats, with a coat of arms in front, probably signifying their official rank and position. The rowers stood to their oars, which worked on pivots upon the sides of the boat near the stern, and thej^ handled them with such skill and effect that they approached the ships very rapidly, shouting loudly as they came. At the stern of each boat was a small flag, with three horizontal stripes in it, a white one on either side, and a black one in the middle, while in many of the boats there was, beside, an additional flag, with symbols upon it. One or two persons, armed each with two swords at their sides^ stood in the boats, and were evidently men of rank and authority. 30 J 234 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. One of the boats came alongside of tlie flag-ship, and it was observed tliat a person on board bad a scroll of paper in bis band, wbicb tbe officer of the Susquehanna refused to receive, bait which was held iip to be read alongside of the Mississippi, when it was found to be a document in the French language, which conveyed an order to the effect that the ships should go away, and not anchor at their peril. The chief functionary, as his boat reached the side of the Susquehanna, made signs for the gangway ladder to be let down. This was refused, but Mr. Williams, the Chinese interjjreter, and Mr. Portman, the Dutch, were directed to state to him that the Commodore would not receive any one but a functionary of the highest rank, and that he might return on shore. As there seemed to be some difficulty in making progress in the Japanese language, one on board the boat alongside said, in very good English, "I can speak Dutch." Mr. Portman then commenced a conversation with him in that language, as his English seemed to have been exhausted in the first sentence. He appeared to be perfectly familiar with the Dutch, however, and commenced a very brisk volley of questions, many of which were not responded to. He asked if the ships came from America, and seemed to have expected them. He was very pertinacious in urging to be allowed to come on board, but was constantly refused j^ermission, and was told that the commander of the squadron was of the highest rank, in the service to which he belonged, in the United States, and could confer only with the highest in rank at Uraga. He then stated that the vice-governor of Uraga was in the boat, and pointed to one of those in authority at his side, who, he said, held the highest position in the city, and was the proj)er person to be received. He was now asked why the governor himself did not come off, to which he replied that he was prevented by the laws from going on board ships in the roads ; and proposed that the Commodore should appoint an officer of corresponding rank with the vice-governor to confer with him, as he was desirous of communicating to the government the object of the squadron's visit. The Commodore, after some intentional delay, consented to this request, and appointed his aid, Lieutenant Contee, to receive him. The gangway-ladder was accordingly lowered, and the vice-governor, Nagazima Saboroske, accompanied by his interprerer, Hori Tatsnoske, who spoke Dutch, came on board, and was received in the captain's cabin, where a conference was held, in fact, with the Commodore, who, however, studiously kept himself secluded in his own cabin, and communicated with the Japanese through his aid only. It was directed that the dignitary should be informed that the Commodore, who had been sent by his country on a friendly mission to Japan, had brought a letter from the President of the United States, addressed to tbe Emperor, and that he wished a suitable officer might be sent on board his ship to receive a copy of the same, in order that a day might be appointed for the Commodore formally to deliver the original. To this he replied that Nagasaki was the only place, according to the laws of Japan, for negotiating foreign business, and it would be necessary for the squadron to go there. In answer to this he was told that the Commodore had come purposely to Uraga because it was near to Yedo, and that he sJiouId not go to Nagasaki ; that he expected the letter to be duly and properly received where he then was ; that his intentions were perfectly friendly, but that he would allow of no indignity ; and would not permit the guard-boats which were collecting around the shijis to remain where they were, and if they were not immediately removed, the Commodore declared that he would disperse them by force. When this was interpreted to him, the functionary suddenly left his seat, went to the gangway, and gave an order which caused most of the boats to return to the shore ; but a few of them still remaining in clusters, an armed boat was sent frorn the ship to DISPERSION OF THE JAPANESE GUARD-BOATS. 235 warn them away by gestures, and at the same time to show their arms ; this had the desired efi'ect, as all of them disappeared, and nothing more was seen of them near the ships during the stay of the squadron. This, as says the Commodore, was the first important point gained. The vice-governor shortly afterward took his leave, saying, as he departed, that he had no authority to promise any thing respecting the reception of the President's letter, but in the morning an officer of higher rank would come from the city, who might probably furnish some further information. The policy of the Commodore, it will be seen, was to assume a resolute attitude toward the Japanese government. He had determined, before reaching the coast, to carry out strictly this course in all his official relations, as he believed it the best to ensure a successful issue to the delicate mission with which he had been charged. He was resolved to adopt a course entirely contrary to that of all others who had hitherto visited Japan on a similar errand — to demand as a right, and not to solicit as a favor, those acts of courtesy which are due from one civilized nation to another ; to allow of none of those petty annoyances which had been unsparingly visited upon those who had preceded him, and to disregard the acts as well as the threats of the authorities, if they in the least conflicted with his own sense of what was due to the dignity of the American flag. The question of landing by force was left to be decided by the development of succeeding events ; it was, of course, the very last measure to be resorted to, and the last that was desired ; but in order to be prepared for the worst, the Commodore caused the ships constantly to be kept in perfect readiness^ and the crews to be drilled as thoroughly as they are in time of active war. He was prepared, also, to meet the Japanese on their own ground, and exhibit toward them a little of their own exclusive policy; if they stood on their dignity and assumed superiority, that was a game at which he could play as well as they. It was well to let them know that other people had dignity also, which they knew how to protect, and that they did not acknowledge the Japanese to be their superiors. Hence he forbade the admission of a single Jajjanese on board any of the ships, except those officers who might have business with him; and the visits even of such were to be confined to the flag-ship, to which they were admitted only on the declaration of their rank and business. The Commodore, also, was well aware that the more exclusive he should make himself, and the more unyielding he might be in adhering to his declared intentions, the more respect these people of forms and ceremonies would be disposed to award him ; therefore it was that he deliberately resolved to confer personally with no one but a functionary of tlie highest rank in the empire. He would have been ashamed, in the indul- gence of a contemptible pride founded on mere official rank, to assume a superiority, and afiect a dignity, too lofty to stoop to the level of men below him in station. As a man, he did not deem himself too elevated to hold communication with any of his brethren in the common heritage of humanity ; but in Japan, as the representative of his country, and the accredited guardian of the honor of that flag which floated over him, he felt that it was well to teach the Japanese, in the mode most intelligible to them, by stately and dignified reserve, joined to perfect equity in all he asked or did, to respect the country from which he came, and to suspend for a time their accustomed arrogance and incivility toward strangers. The Japanese so well understood him that they learned the lesson at once. It was this feeling, and this only, which prompted him to refuse to see the vice-governor of Uraga, and to refer him to his aid for conference. He saw him often enough afterward, when matters had been arranged between the governments, on terms of friendship and equality. And we have been thus particular, not for 236 EXPEDITION rO JAPAN. the information of our countrymen, wlio know Commodore Perry, but for strangers who may read our story and, without this word of explanation, misapprehend the character of the man. No man is more easily approached by his fellow-men, or assumes less on account of the honoi'able position he fills in the service of his country. The best proof that he judged wisely in determining on his course is in the results. The squadron was left free of all annoyance or interference on the part of the authorities during the whole period of its stay ; an event unprecedented in the intercourse of Japan with foreign ships for more than two centuries. We have said there was no annoyance to the ships, but the Japanese were as yet too suspicious of foreigners not to resort to their favorite system of espionage : and, therefore, though the guard-vessels were withdrawn, as we have seen, there might still be observed floating here and there a boat in the distance, seemingly with the object of quietly watching the movements of the strangers ; but they never came near the squadron, and were not by any act of the authorities forced upon the recognition of them, by the Americans, as guard-boats. That a watchful eye was kept upon the squadron was probable. Three or four rockets were shot up from the opposite land during the afternoon, which were supposed to be signals of some purpose or other. When night came on, the presence of the ships in their waters was evidently keeping up a very lively apprehension on the part of the Japanese on shore. Beacon fires were lighted upon every hill-top, and along the shores on either side as far as the eye could reach, and during the whole night the watchers on deck could hear the tolling of a great bell which was at first supposed to be that of a temple, but was probably an alarum or signal of some kind. The bay was otherwise as quiet as an inland lake, and nothing occurred to disturb the tranquillity of the night. When, however, the nine o'clock gun of the flag-ship, a sixty-four-pounder, was fired, the report reverberated loudly through the hills on the western side of the bay, and apparently created something of a commotion on shore, for here and there the fires were observed to be immediately extinguished. There seemed, however, no reason to expect any interference, although every precaution had been taken ; the ships had quite a warlike aspect, with sentinels stationed fore and aft and upon the gangways at the sides, with a pile of round shot and four stands of grape at each gun, muskets stacked on the quarter-deck, and boats provided with carbines, pistols, cutlasses and other necessaries for service. An interesting meteorological phenomenon was observed in the course of the night by Lieutenant Duer, in command of the watch, who describes it as a remarkable meteor seen from midnight until four o'clock in the morning. It made its appearance in the southward and westward and illuminated the whole atmosphere. The spars, sails, and hulls of the ships reflected its glare as distinctly as though a blue light were burning from each vessel at the same time. From the southward and westward, and about fifteen degrees above the horizon, it pursued a northeastwardly course in a direct line for a long distance, when it fell gradually toward the sea and disappeared. Its form was that of a large blue sphere with a red, wedge- shaped tail, which it could easily be observed was formed of ignited particles which resembled the sparks of a rocket as they appear upon its explosion. " The ancients" remarks the Commodore "would have construed this remarkable appearance of the heavens as a favorable omen for any enterprize they had undertaken," and adds " it may be so construed by us, as we pray God that our present attempt to bring a singvdar and isolated people into the family of civilized nations may succeed without resort to bloodshed." As the sun rose next morning, gradually lifting the mist which had been spread during the night upon the surface of the bay, and still curtained, here and there, the land with its fleecy VISIT OF THE GOVERNOR OF URAGA. 237 festoons^ a beautiful view -was disclosed. A bold shore, occasionally broken by steep escarpments of bare gray rock, extended along the western or Sagami side of the bay, with an undulating surface brightly green with verdure, tufts of undergrowth, and scattered groups of trees. Fui'ther inland the earth rose in a range of gently swelling hills, the sides of which were covered with vegetation. Two miles below the anchorage, the shore was less abrupt, and seemed more cultivated. From Uraga to the entrance of the inner bay of Yedo, marked by a promontory a mile and a half distant, innumerable towns and villages were grouped along the shores on either side. Uraga embraces two of these towns, separated from each other by a cliff ; through the larger one of which a river passes and empties into the harbor, where floated a great number of small boats and several junks. As most of the vessels bound up the bay were seen to stop in their course at Uraga, that place was supposed to be an entrepot where certain custom dues had to be paid. Forts could be seen on the headlands here and there commanding the harbor, and as they were examined through the glass, some of them were found to be in an iinfinished state, and in progress of construction or alteration. Some were mounted with cannon, though apparently of no great calibre, while others were without a gun. A length of screens had been stretched for a distance of several rods upon posts in front of the breastworks, as well as inside the forts behind the embrasures, and along parts of the shore. In the distance these screens seemed to be composed of cloth, and were marked with white and black stripes. Their purpose was not very obvious, although it was surmised that they were got up with the intention of making a false show of concealed force. The Japanese probably had not calculated upon the exactness of view afforded by a Dolland's telescope or a French opera glass. Companies of soldiers, in glaring scarlet uniforms, were seen to pass from garrison to garrison, some bearing flags with various insignia, and others large lanterns upon tall poles. The shore was lined with a formidable sliow of the same sort of government boats as had surrounded the ships on their arrival. They seemed to be picketed off from the town by two red flags which had been planted on the shore between them and the houses on the land. The first approach to the Susquehanna from the shore was that of a boat at early sunrise next morning, (July 9th,) apparently containing a corps of artists, who came close to the shijD's side, but making no attempt to come on board, busied themselves in taking sketches of the strange vessels. The important visit of the day, however, came off at seven o'clock, when two large boats rowed alongside, one of which contained a half dozen officials, whose presence was indicated by the three-striped flag at the stern. The interpreter who spoke Dutch was with them, and announced that the i^ersonage of highest authority in the city was present, and desired to come on board. The arrival of Keyamon Yezaimen, (for such was his name,) who presented himself as the governor and greatest functionary of Uraga, thus plainly contradicting the declaration of the vice-governor of the day before, was then duly announced to the Commo- dore, who ordered that his highness should be received by Commanders Buchanan and Adams and Lieutenant Contee, the Commodore himself still refusing, in accordance with his policy, to receive any one but a counsellor of the Empire. The governor was attired, in character with his high position, as a noble of tlie third rank. He wore a rich silk robe of an embroidered imttern resembling the feathers of a peacock, with borders of gold and silver. He was duly received by the officers we have named, and immediately commenced with them a conference, which, how- ever, was in reality with the Commodore, though he still preserved his seclusion. The governor, after a long discussion, in which he more than once declared that the Japanese laws made it impossible that the President's letter should be received at Uraga, and that, even if it were, the 238 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. answer -would he sent to Nagai3aki, added also that the squadron must preceed thither. In answer to this he was most distinctly told that the Commodore would never consent to such an arrangement, and would persist in delivering the letter where he was ; and, moreover, that if the Japanese government did not see fit to appoint a suitable person to receive the documents in his possession addressed to the Emperor that he, the Commodore, whose duty it was to deliver them, would go on shore with a sufficient force and deliver them in person, be the consequences what they might. In answer to this, the governor said that he would return to the city and send a communi- cation to Yedo, asking for further instructions, and he added that it would take fo2ir days to obtain a reply. One hour's steaming would have taken the ships in sight of Yedo, and so the governor was informed that the Commodore would wait three days only, (until Tuesday, the 12th,) when a definite answer would be expected. A boat had been sent at daylight from each ship of the squadron to survey the bay and harbor of Uraga. The governor, on observing these boats, inquired what they were doing, and when he was told that they were surveying the harbor, he said it was against the Japanese laws to allow of such examinations ; to' which he received for reply, that the American laws command them, and that Americans were as much bound to obey the American as he was the Japanese laws. "^^ This," remarks the Commodore, " was a second and most important point gained." During all the questions and answers the interjireter had out his tablets, and was busy taking notes^ and if all the importunate inquiries of the governor had been responded to, his reporter would have enjoyed no sinecure. At the interview, the original letter of the President, together with the Commodore's letter of credence, encased in the magnificent boxes which had been prepared in Washington, were shown to his excellency, who was evidently greatly impressed with their exquisite workmanship and costliness ; and he made an offer for the first time of water and refreshments, but was told that the squadron was in no need of anything. The governor was made to understand perfectly that there would be no necessity for any further discussion until the time appointed for the delivery of the answer from the Japanese government should arrive ; and he left the ship fully impressed with this understanding. During the conference, the governor and his interpreter were requested to use the same designation in speaking of the President of the United States as that by which they distinguished the Emperor. They complied with this request, although, previous to it, they had used difl"erent terms for the two dignitaries. In a country like Japan, so governed by ceremonials of all kinds, it was necessary to guard with the strictest etiquette even the forms of speech ; and it was found that by a diligent attention to the minutest and apparently most insignificant details of word and action, the desired impression was made upon Japanese diplomacy ; which, as a smooth surface requires one equally smooth to touch it at every point, can only be fully reached and met by the nicest adjustment of the most polished formality. The surveying boats, which seemed to give so much uneasiness to the governor, had been well manned and armed, and Lieutenant Bent, of the Mississippi, who was in command, was instructed not to go beyond the range of the ships' guns, while a good look-out was kept upon the surveying party, in order that assistance might be sent to them should they be attacked. In addition to the usual boat ensigns at the stern, white flags, indicative of their peaceful intentions, were borne on the bows. They spread themselves out toward the ojiposite shore as they pulled away, sounding at every boat's length, and had reached about two miles further up SURVEY OF THE BAY OP DRAGA. 239 tlie bay than the' anchorage of the sqnadron, when they were recalled by a signal gnn. On their return they were sent out again, with orders to keep nearer to the western shore. In the afternoon all the boats returned, coming alongside at about three o'clock p. m. The hydrographic reports were of the most favorable character, as deep water was found as far up as four miles toward the head of the bay, which was the extent of the first survey. The soundings varied from twenty-nine to forty-three fathoms, and at the height of the ebb tide a current was observed running at the rate of two or three knots. The examination of the harbor of Uraga, which was carried to within a few feet of the shore, gave five fathoms at about a cable's length distance, while within that space from the land several reefs were found to extend out. As the boats approached the shores there was a good view of the fortifications, which did not seem to be of a very formidable character. Their construction did not exliibit much strength or art. Their position and armament were such as to expose them to an easy assault ; their parapets were in earthwork, while many of the buildings, the barracks and magazines, appeared to be of wood. They mounted but few guns, and those of small calibre, while their embrasures were so wide that the cannon were greatly exposed. On the first approach of the survey boats the soldiers showed themselves in considerable force, and were observed to be fully armed. They presented quite a bristling front with their spears and match-locks, while their lacquered caps and shields flashed brightly in the sun. They did not seem disposed, however, to make any very decided stand, for they retreated within the walls of the fortification as soon as the boats made in closer with the land. One of the ofiicers in command of a ship's boat approached to within a hundred yards of the shore, and observing three persons, seemingly of authority, standing out upon an embankment, levelled his glass at them, whereat they disappeared on the instant, evidently much discomposed at being sighted with an instrument which they (though not unfamiliar with the telescope) might have supposed to be a weapon unknown to them, and capable of projecting something more deadly than the glance of an eye. The Japanese soldiers in the boats along shore beckoned to our officer to keep ofi", while he, in response, made a sign to show the direction in which he was going. The Japanese then put off and approached so rajsidly that it appeared as if their intention was to intercept the ship's boat, and the officer in command accordingly gave orders to his men to rest upon their oars and adjust the caps to their carbines. There was, however, no attempt directly to interfere with this or any other of the ship's cutters, although they were followed by numbers of Japanese boats, which, however, on seeing our men well armed, did not venture to molest them. The artist who accompanied the surveying party had an excellent opportunity, which was well improved, of making sketches of the land, the forts, and various other objects on shore. Everything seemed propitious, as the action of the Commodore had so far been crowned with success. He had gained his purpose in clearing the squadron of the presence of the o-uard- boats ; he had compelled the visit of the first in authority at Uraga ; he had surveyed the harbor ; he had refused to go to Nagasaki, and kept his position in the bay of Yedo ; and this last he determined to retain until he had some definite answer as to the reception of the President's letter by a person of proper rank and authority. The weather added its smiles to the occasion, for nothing could be more propitious. The heat, which was not excessive, for tlie thermometer hardly ranged above 78°, was tempered by cool sea breezes, and the atmosphere was so clear that every object appeared with great distinctness, and there was a jiicturesque view disclosed to the eye on all sides. The peaked summit of Fusi rose, with great distinctness, above the high land on the western coast, and ten 240 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. miles aliead the bold cliff, whicli guards both sides of the entrance to the inner harbor leading to Yedo, were readily discernible. Nearer, the hovrses of Uraga could be so plainly seen that their peculiar forms and construction could be made out, and they were perceived to be built of wood, with roofs of various forms — pointed, square, and pyramidal. Most of the buildings were of the natural color of the wood, somewhat discolored, however, by time, while some few were painted white. The Japanese boats and junks, to the number of several hundreds, extending from the headland, off which the Susquehanna was anchored, to the harbor, were so distinctly visible as to be readily counted. Nearer still, the eye could minutely distinguish the parts of the unfinished forts that were in the process of construction on the heights opposite to the ship. The next day was Sunday, (July 10th,) and, as usual, divine service was held on board the ships and, in accordance with proper reverence for the day, no communication was held with the Japanese authorities. During the day, however, a boat came off with a striped flag, which indicated the high rank of the three or four Japanese sitting beneath its awning and languidly using their fans. They were evidently persons of distinction, and had the same intelligent expression and the remarkably courtly manners which were uniformly observed in all those of the better class. On coming alongside they, through their interpreter whom they had brought, requested permission to come on board. They were asked if they had any business with the Commodore, and answering that they had none, but merely wished to have a talk, were politely informed that, by his orders, they could not be received. Through the day, preparations were observed to be still proceeding on the land ; the soldiers moved busily, with their glistening shields and long spears, about the batteries in sight, and some seemed to be engaged in removing the sham forts of striped canvas, and in training more guns upon the squadron. The reverberations of the report of a cannon, fired off apparently some distance up the bay, echoed through the hills, and were distinctly heard on board the ships. At night, the beacon-fires, though fewer in number than on the previous evening, again blazed, while the deep-toned bell tolled as usual until morning. Everything, however, remained on board the ships tranquil and without interruption, as befitted the Christian day of rest. On the next morning early (Monday) the surveying boats were dispatched higher up the bay, and Commander Lee, of the steamer Mississippi, was directed to get his ship under way to protect them, if necessary. The governor of Uraga, on seeing the Mississippi going higher up, came on board, although he had been told that there would be no necessity for further communication or discussion until the reply from Yedo was received. The Commodore had sent the Mississippi and the boats on the service, in part for effect, being satisfied that the very circumstance of approaching nearer to Yedo with a powerful ship would alarm the authorities, and induce them to give a more favorable answer to his demands. It happened as was expected. The governor pretended that his visit to the ship was simply for the purpose of bringing the information that it was very probable the letters (meaning, as was then supposed, the translations of the originals) would be received on the following day, and forwarded to Yedo. His evident object in coming on board, however, was to ascertain for what purpose the Mississippi and the surveying boats had ascended the bay, and he accordingly put the question. The Commodore, anticipating the inquiry, directed that the governor should be informed that, unless the business which had brought the squadron to the bay of Y'edo was arranged SURVEY OF THE BAY OF YEDO. 241 during the present visit, lie, the Commodore, would be obliged to return in the ensuing spring with a larger force ; and, as the anchorage in front of Uraga was not convenient or safe, he was desirous of seeking a more favorable situation nearer to Yedo, which would facilitate his communication with that city. The surveying party, as on the previous occasion, was composed of boats from each ship of the squadron, under the command of Lieutenant Bent. They were sent out with general directions from the Commodore to go as far uji the bay toward Yedo as possible^ without getting out of signal distance from the squadron, and to avoid giving any occasion of conflict with the people of the country. Their departure was watched with considerable anxiety by those on board the Susquehanna. Thirty fathoms of her cable had been taken in, and the remainder was all ready to slip, while steam was got up, to be in readiness for any emergency. The movements on shore were quite lively : in the distance, on the eastern shore, large numbers of soldiers — as- many apparently as a thousand — were seen to march down from the higher ground to the beach, and there embark in boats, which put off immediately in the direction of the surveying party. And, during the whole time, the various batteries were busy with the movements of the troops, who seemed to be either preparing for hostilities, or attempting to make a formidable show of force. The boats proceeded from ten to twelve miles further toward Yedo than the anchorage of the squadron. In proceeding up the bay, numbers of government vessels appeared, waving off the intruders, and some thirty-five put off in a direction fronting the course of the surveying boats, as if intending to intercept them. Lieutenant Bent, who was in advance, ordered his men to rest on their oars, and to affix their bayonets to their muskets, but this proceeding did not seem to have the eflect he had hoped for, of stopping the Japanese boats. They still came on. The lieutenant, anxious to avoid a rupture, then changed his course somewhat, to prevent an immediate collision, and dispatched a boat for the Mississippi, which was about two miles astern. The desired effect was soon produced by the approach of the steamer, and there was no apparent disposition shown afterward to interfere with the party, which continued the exploration. Deep soundings were found the whole distance, with a soft bottom of mud. A channel seemed to exist at the furthest point reached ; in the centre the lead gave a depth of twenty fathoms, while on the sides it struck upon banks of mud at not more than five fathoms It was inferred that there were deep soundings still further, and that the squadron might readily push on with safety to within a few miles of Yedo itself. At the extreme distance of the boats' passage there was a smaller bay, cut out, as it were, from the larger, which^ it was supposed, woirld probably afford an excellent anchorage. On either side the shores were abrupt, and extended back into lofty hills, and from the position of the boats at this point a town was observed on the right side of the bay of Yedo. The Mississippi had disappeared for some time from the view of those on board the other .ships ; but, just as the signal gun was about to be fired for her recall, she shot round the promontory, some two or three miles up the bay, which had concealed her from sight, came steaming down, with the boats in tow, and was soon quietly settled at her old anchorage, passing on her way between the Susquehanna and the Uraga shore, and attracting the attention of numbers of soldiers on the latter, who came out to see her pass. The bay was covered all day, as usual, with the Japanese junks, sailing up or down, apparently carrying on a brisk commerce, and not at all disturbed by the presence of the squadron. Some of the fishing smack.s and other boats would, indeed, at times approach 31 J 242 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. pretty near to the ships, hut oljTiously merely to gratify curiosity, as their crews would stand up and gaze intently, hut gave no sign either of alarm or hostility. The trading vessels were ohserved to stop at a town on the opposite side in coming down, and at Uraga in going up, in accordance, prohahly, as has already heen intimated, with some regulation of the customs. Everything passed tranquilly, and the next day, Avhich was to bring some reply or other to the Commodore's demands, was looked forward to with deep solicitude and interest by every man on hoard the ships. In the Bay of Yedo. lal %^"*if;:^^;,-^^^tC' )f-l ^^'fl^ ~, >u£ss!i';'^ '^., '.-^-U'-^.^ EuiTOiSSn"- ^- -^ s t'nj)u*(l I'rom voii Siebohls ^ritli slight addihous Scctinvcliinis , bv tliP I'. S. Jaj^aitExpedilion and ntlier authorities, I'lnipilpdhv order of coMMODoHi'; \r. r. perry, r. s.x. by J^iiMil'^ "W. L. .Nfaurv ami Silas Bnil . 18 5 5. REPLY PROM THE COURT AT YEDO. 243 CHAPTER XIII. REPLY FROM THE COtTRT AT YEDO. EFFORTS OF THE JAPANESE TO GET THE SQUADROV OCT OF THE BAY OP YEDO. COMMODORE 8 FIRM REFUSAL TO LEAVE URAGA. AGREEMENT OF THE EMPEROR TO RECEIVE, THROUGH A COMMISSIONER, THE PRESIDENT'S LETTER. HIGH BREEDING OF THE JAPANESE GENTLEMEN; NOT ILL INFORMED. SURVEY OF THE BAY OF YEDO. — FOGS OF JAPAN. SECOND VISIT FROM THE GOVERNOR OF URAGA. HE BRINGS A LETTER FROM THE EMPEROR, AUTHORIZING A PRINCE OF THE EMPIRE TO RECEIVE, IN HIS NAME, THE PRESIDENT'S LETTER. ARRANGEMENTS MADE FOR THE COMMODORe's RECEP- TION ON SHORE TO DELIVER THE LETTER. MINUTE ATTENTION OF THE JAPANESE TO ETIQUETTE AND CEREMONIALS. PREPARATIONS IN THE SQUADRON FOR THE VISIT ON SHORE AT THE RECEPTION. SHIPS BROUGHT NEAR THE LAND, SO AS TO COMMAND THE PLACE OF MEETING. LANDING AND RECEPTION, AND DELIVERY OF THE LETTER AND OTHER DOCUMENTS. PRINCES OF IDSU AND IWAMA. CONTENTS OF PRESIDENT'S LETTER. COHMODORe's LETTER OF CREDENCE, AND HIS LETTERS TO THE EMPEROR. RECEIPT GIVEN BY THE JAPANESE FOR THE PAPERS. RETURN TO THE SHIPS. HE day appointed for the reception of a reply from Yedo (Tuesday, July 12) had now arrived. Accordingly, at about half past nine o'clock in the morning, three boats were seen to approach the steamer Susquehanna from the shores of Uraga. These were different from the usual government craft, and seemod, unlike the iithers, to be built after an European model; the rowers sat to their oars, and moved them as our boatmen do, B though somewhat awkwardly, instead of standing and i sculling at the sides, in accordance with the usual ' Japanese practice. The construction of the boats waa C" evidently very strong, and their models fair. Their masts, sails, and rigging were of the ordinary Japanese fashion. The crews were numerous, there being thirty in the largest boat, and thirteen in each of the others, and their great swarthy frames were clothed in the usual uniform of loose blue dresses slashed with white stripes. The boat in advance was distinguished, in addition to the government mark of a horizontal black stripe across her broad sail, by the black and white flag, which indicated the presence of some officers of distinction, and such in fact were now on board of her. As she approached nearer to the ship, the governor, Kayama Yezaiman, in his rich silken robes, was recognised, seated on mats spread in the centre of the deck of the vessel, and surrounded by his interpreters and suite. 244 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. The advance boat now came alongside, leaving the other two floating at some distance from the Susquehanna. His highness, Kayama Yezaiman, with his two interpreters, Hori Tatsnoske, the principal, and Fatcisko Tokushumo, his second, were admitted at once on hoard, and liaving been received with due formality, were ushered into the presence of Captains Buchanan and Adams, who were prepared to communicate with them. The Commodore had, previously to the arrival of the governor, written the following letter to the Emperor : "United States Steam Frigate Susquehanna, Uraga, July 12, 1853. "The Commander-in-chief of the United States naval forces in these seas, being invested with full powers to negotiate treaties, is desirous of conferring with one of the highest officers of the Empire of Japan, in view of making arrangements for the presentation of the original of his letter of credence, as also the original of a letter with which he is charged, addressed to his Imperial Majesty by the President of the United States. "It is hoped that an early day will be appointed for the proposed interview. "To his Imperial Majesty the Emperor op Japan." The governor's first statement was to the effect that there had been a misapprehension as to the delivery of the translations of the papers before the originals had been received. Although the Commodore was certain that there had been no such misunderstanding, nevertheless he, on the second interview in the course of the afternoon, consented, after much discussion, to deliver the translations and originals, as also a letter from himself to the Emperor^ at the same time, provided the latter should appoint a suitable officer to receive them directly from the hands of the Commodore, who repeated that he would consent to present them to no other than a Japanese dignitary of the highest rank. The governor then said that a building would be erected on shore for the reception of the Commodore and his suite, and that a high official personage, specially appointed by the Emperor, would he in attendance to receive the letters. He, however, added that no answer would he given in the bay of Yedo, but that it would be transmitted to Nagasaki, through the Dutch or Chinese superintendents. This being reported to the Commo- dore, he wrote the following memorandum and directed it to be translated into Dutch, and fully explained to the governer. • "The Commander-in-chief will not go to Nagasaki, and will receive no communication through the Dutch or Chinese. " He has a letter from the President of the United States to deliver to the Emperor of Japan, or to his secretary of foreign aifairs, and he will deliver the original to none other: — if this friendly letter of the President to the Emperor is not received and duly replied to, he will consider his country insulted, and will not hold himself accountable for the consequences. , " He expects a reply of some sort in a few days, and he will receive such reply nowhere but in this neighborhood." [Bay of Uraga.] When this was communicated to the governor, he took his departure, probably to consult some higher authority, as doubtless there was more than one high officer of the court at Uraga, secretly directing the negotiations. The interview had lasted three hours, and it was fully one o'clock before the governor left the ship. All passed in the most quiet way without any interruption to the usual courtesies of friendly negotiation. The shore showed every indication CONVERSATION WITH THE GOVERNOR OF URAGA 245 of tranquillity, and no movement was observed on the part of the fortresses, or the many government boats along the shore. The governor, in accordance with his promise on leaving in the morning, returned in the afternoon accompanied, as usual, by his interpreters and suite. He came off, however, in one of the ordinary Japanese boats, and not, as earlier in the day, in the vessel built after the European model. Captains Buchanan and Adams were in readiness to receive the party, and resumed the renewed conference witli the same form and ceremony as before ; the Commodore still preserving his seclusion and communicating with the Japanese only through others. The conversation is here given verbatim as reported. CONVERSATION. Present Captains Buchanan and Adams, Lieutenant Contee, Flag Lieutenant, and Yezaiman, governor of Uraga, and interpreters. Yezaiman. As it will take a great deal of time to send up the copies of the letters first, and the originals afterward, I propose that the originals and the copies be delivered together, when the high officer comes. The governor and the high officer will do their best to entertain the Admiral and give him a suitable reception. Copt. Buchanan. That is not the object of the Commodore : he wishes these communications to go because there is among them a letter to the Emperor from himself, which he desires to send to Yedo with the copies. The reply to the President's letter is not of so much consequence just now. We want a reply to the Commodore's letter which is in the package. Yezaiman. If you send the original letter we will reply to it as soon as possible. We are here for the purpose of receiving the letter from the President to the Emperor, but now you speak of a letter from the Admiral to the Emperor. Capt. B. The letter from the Admiral is in the package containing the copies of the President's letter. It states that he has in his possession the original letter of the President, and is empowered by the President to deliver it in person to the Emperor, or to a high officer of equal rank with himself, appointed by the Emjieror. Yezaiman. We are very sorry that you separate the two ; it would be better to send the originals at once with the copies. Capt. B. That is impossible. The letter of the Admiral states that he has the original letter of the President, and is empowered to deliver it^ either in person or to an officer of his own rank ; when the Emperor is aware of the fact that the Admiral has the letter, then he will appoint an officer of the same rank to receive the original, and the Admiral will return at some future day to receive the answer. Yezaiman. Can you not contrive to manage it in such a way that the original letter may be sept with the copies ? Capt. B. It cannot be done. Yezaiman. When the ships first came it was not mentioned that the copies must be sent first, and not the original letters ; and now you mention it. Capt. B. During the first visit you made here, you were shown the original letters, and also the copies, and the same statement was then made by us as now. — (.After a pause Captain B. resumed.) — Will the high officer who will come here be accredited by the Emperor to receive the letters from the Admiral? 246 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Yezaiman. He haa the authorization of the Emperor. Copt. B. Will he have any proof to show that he is thus authorized? Yezaiman. Yes, he can prove it. Capt. B. One of the letters is from the President, informing the Emperor of Japan that Commodore Perry is sent as a high officer appointed by himself, and Commodore Perry will expect similar credentials on the part of the officer appointed to speak with him. Yezaiman. He will receive the letter, but cannot enter into any negotiations. Capt. B. What is the rank and official title of the officer who is appointed? — {While the interpreter is toriting the title of the officer in question, in Chinese characters, Captains Buchanan and Adams retire to consult ivith the Commodore.} Lieutenant Contee. When will the high officers be ready to receive the letter? Interpreter. To-morrow or the day after. Lieut. C. Where is the house? Interpreter. On the shore. Lieut. C. Can you point it out from here? Interpreter. It cannot be seen. Lieut. C, {repealing his last question.') Can you point it out from here? Interpreter. It is on the other side of the hills — you can see it from another position. Lieut. C. What was the name of the officer who came on board on the day of our arrival? Interpreter. Nagazhima Saberoske. {Captains B^ichanan and Adains now returned.) Captain Buchanan. Captain Adams and I have just had a conversation with the Admiral.* He says that, since you appear to have wholly misunderstood the matter about the letter, if you can show proof that an officer of the proper rank is appointed to receive them, he will waive the matter in dispute, and deliver the original at the same time with the copies. But he requires strict evidence that the officer who shall meet him shall be of the necessary rank, and that he has been specially appointed for the purpose by the Emperor. Yezaiman. Nagasaki is the proper place to receive letters from foreign nations, and because Uraga is not an appropriate place, the officer will not be allowed to converse, but only to receive the letters. Capt. B. He is only desired to receive the letters. Will he come on board, or will the letters be delivered on shore? Yezaiman. He will not come on board, but will receive them on shore. Capt. B. Before the letters are delivered, the credentials of the officer must be translated into Dutch, signed with the proper signatures, and sent on board the Admiral. Yezaiman. He will be accredited to receive the letter, but cannot speak. Capt. B. He will not be desired to speak, but he must have a paper signed by the Emperor, stating that he is empowered to receive the letters. Yezaiman. He will have a document properly signed. [Captain Buchanan noiu directed Mr. Portman to write in Dutch the declaration he had made, and to give it to the interpreter. The following is the English version : " There has been a * "It is proper to remark that the title of Admiral was necessarily used at these interviews, to designate your rank, as we found Vezaiman's interpreters were familiar with it, and were entirely unacquainted with that of Commodore." — Extract from Captain Adams' official report to Commodore Perry. CONVERSATION WITH THE GOVERNOR OF URAGA. 247 great deal of misunderstanding about receiving the original letter and the translated copies, whether to be received together or separately. The Admiral now is willing to meet with a high officer of Yedo, holding rank in Japan corresponding to the rank of Admiral in the United States. This officer shall be accredited, viz: possess a writing properly signed by the Emperor, authorizing him to receive the said letters. Of this writing or letter of credence shall be made a copy, translated into Dutch, and the same copy be transmitted to the Admiral before the interview takes place. " At this interview there shall be no discussions whatever ; no more than an exchange of civilities and compliments. " The Admiral does not insist upon receiving an answer to the original letter of the President immediately, but will come back for that purpose after some months."] Yezaiman. The high officer will not be allowed to speak on the matter ; only to make and return compliments. Capt. B. That is all that is necessary. Yezaiman. The high officer will be here the day after to-morrow, to receive the letter on shore. , Capt. B. At what hour? Yezaiman. At eight o'clock in the morning. As soon as we see the flag hoisted we will come on board the ship. Capt. B. Will the high officer bring the copy of the letter empowering him to act, properly certiiied ? Yezaiman. He will bring it. Interpreter. The governor is very grateful for his kind reception on board. Capt. B. We are very happy to see him. Where is the place of reception? Interpreter. I can point out the place, but the house cannot be seen. Yezaiman. Will the Admiral await the Emperor's answer to the President's letter ? Capt. B. No ; the Admiral will not now wait for it. Yezaiman. When will he come for a reply? Capt. B. He will return in a few months to receive the Emperor's reply. Yezaiman. I would desire a statement in writing to that effect. [There being no satisfactory answer to this, Yezaiman continued.] The high officer who receives the letter of the President will give a receipt for it, as an assurance that it has been received. Capt. B. Can you not appoint a place nearer the ship ? The distance is very great for the men to pull in a boat. The Admiral will be satisfied to meet the high officer in a tent, or in one of the forts nearer the ships. The interview will not be long. Interpreter. The house is not far off ; it is less than a Japanese mile. Capt. B. Can you not arrange to have it nearer the ships ? 'Interp^-eter. The governor says he will endeavor to arrange it. Capt. B. Can you let us know to-morrow morning ? Interpreter. Yes. The conference here ended. Kayama Yezaiman and his companions seemed to be in the highest good humor, and readily availed themselves of the proffered courtesies of the officers of the Susquehanna, which were accepted and responded to in a manner indicating the most polished good breeding. In 248 EXPEDITIONTOJAPAN. receiving the hospitalities of their hosts, it may be remarked that they partook freely, and ' seemed to relish particularly the whiskey and brandy which formed part of the entertainment. The governor especially appeared to ajjpreciate the foreign liquors, particularly when mixed with sugar, and smacked his lips with great gusto, as he drained his glass to its last sweetened dregs. His interpreters, in the growing freedom of convivial enjoyment, made merry over his highness' bacchanalian proclivity, and laughingly expressing their alarm lest Yezaiman should take a drop too much, remarked, " his face is already growing red." Though always preserving a certain gentlemanly aplomb and that self-cultivated manner which bespeaks high breeding, these Japanese dignitaries were disposed to be quite social, and shared freely and gaily in conversation. Nor did their knowledge and general information fall short of their elegance of manners and amiability of disposition. They were not only well-bred, but not ill-educated, as they were jiroficients in the Dutch, Chinese, and Japanese languages, and not unacquainted with the general principles of science and of the facts of the geography of the world. When a terrestrial globe was placed before them, and their attention was called to the delineation on it of the United States^, they immediately placed their fingers on Washington and New York, as if perfectly familiar with the fact that one was the capital, and the other the commercial metropolis of our country. They also, with equal promptitude, pointed out England, France, Denmark, and other kingdoms of Europe. Their inquiries in reference to the United States showed them not to be entirely ignorant of the facts connected with the material progress of our country ; thus, when they asked if roads were not cut through our mountains, they were referring (as was supposed) to tunnels on our railroads. And this supposition was confirmed on the interpreter's asking, as they examined the ship's engine, whether it was not a similar machine, although smaller, which was used for travelling on the American roads. They also inquired whether the canal across the isthmus was yet finished, alluding probably to the Panama railroad which was then in progress of construction. They knew, at any rate, that labor was being performed to connect the two oceans, and called it by the name of something they had seen, a canal. After refreshments and conversation in the cabin, Yezaiman and his interpreters were invited to inspect the ship, an offer which they accepted with great politeness, and as they came upon deck, notwithstanding there were crowds of officers and men around who could scarce repress the manifestation of their curiosity, the Japanese never for a moment lost their self-possession, but showed the utmost composure and quiet dignity of manner. They evinced an intelligent interest in all the various arrangements of the vessel, observed the big gun and rightly styled it a "Paixhan," exhibited none of that surprise which would naturally be expected from those who were beholding for the first time the wonderful art and mechanism of a perfected steamship. The engine evidently was an object of great interest to them, but the interpreters showed that they were not entirely unacquainted with its principles. Much of this cool but not unobservant composure may have been afi'ected, in accordance with a studied policy, but yet, there can be no doubt, that however backward the Japanese themselves may be in practical science, the best educated among them are tolerably well informed of its progress among more civilized or rather cultivated nations. On leaving the cabin, the Japanese dignitaries had left their swords behind, two of which are always worn by those of certain rank in the empire. This gave an opportunity for inspection, on the part of the curious, of these badges of authority, which seemed to be, in accordance with HIGH B U E E D IN G OP THE JAPANESE GENTLEMEN. 249 their purpose, more suited for show than servicj. The blades, liowever, were apparently of good steel and temper, and highly polished, although their shape as well as that of their hilts, ■without a guard, was awkwardly constructed for use. The mountings were of pure gold, and the scabbards of shark's skin, remarkably well manufactured. The visit of the governor was prolonged into the evening, and it was seven o'clock before he took his departure, when he aiul his interpreters left the ship with their usual graceful courtesies, bowing at ever\' step, and smiling in au amiable yet dignified manner. They M'ere evidently favorably impressed with their reception and all they had seen. The studied politeness which marked their intercourse with our officers was evidently not assumed for the occasion, for it is so habitual with them that in their ordinary relations with each other they preserve the same stately courtesy ; and it was observed^ that no sooner had Yezaiman and his interpreters entered their boat alongside the Susquehanna, that they commenced saluting each other as formally as if they had met for the first time and were jiassing through the ceremonials of a personal introduction. While these scenes were in transaction on boai"d, the boats of the squadron sent out by the Cjmmodore were kept busy all day sounding and observing as on previous occasions. The next day was Wednesday, (July 13th,) and the visit of the governor was naturally expected at an early hour, in fulfilment of his promise. There was, however, no indication through the morning of his coming, and every thing remained in a state of tranquil expectation. There seemed to be some little movement on the part of the authorities, as far as could be gathered from an observation of the neighboring laud. From the opposite shores numerous vessels, loaded with soldiers, crossed to the Uraga side, and a large junk with the usual government flag and insignia put into the harbor. The brisk trade of the bay was carried on as usual^ and Japanese boats, both large and small, were moving up and down in constant circulation. The various towns and villages grouped about the bay were thus interchanging their elements of life and, stimulated into commercial activity by the throb from the busy heart of the great city, poured into Yedo their overflowing abundance. There were no less than sixty- seven junks counted as passing up the bay during the single day. The weather continued warm, with the thermometer indicating as high a point as 87°, but the heat was tempered by an agreeable sea breeze. The view of the shores was much obscured at times by the haze which is said to be so prevalent on the Japanese coast : but in the experience of the squadron the weather hitherto had been remarkably clear, and this day was the foggiest that had been seen since the ships arrived in the bay. Nothing could be seen of the great land-mark — the lofty peak of Fusi — which, by the way, was generally more plainly visible toward the evening than during the day, and was often observed beautifully distinct at sunset, when its summits would glow with a rich halo of crimson light. The expected visit of the governor occurred at last, at about four o'clock in the afternoon. His highness Kayama Yezaiman, accompanied, as usual, by his first and second interpreters, presented himself, with a thousand apologies for not having come earlier, as the high officer from Yedo had but just arrived. The apologies having been made, the governor exhibited the original order of the Emperor, addressed to the functionary who had been appointed to receive the Commodore. The Emperor's letter was short, and was certified by a large seal attached to it. This imperial epistle, which was wrapped in velvet, and enclosed in a box luade of sandal-wood, was treated by the governor with such reverence that he would allow no one to touch it. A copy of it in Dutch, and a certificate verifying the authenticity of the document. 250 EXPEDITION TOJ A PAN. and of the Emperor's seal attached thereto, given under the hand of Kayaraa Yezaiman, the governor, were also presented. The translations were as follows : Translation of letter of credence given by the Emperor of Japan to his liigJiness, Toda, Prince of Idzu. "I send you to Uraga to receive the letter of the President of the United States to me, which letter has recently been brought to Uraga by the Admiral, upon receiving wliicli you will jjroceed to Yedo, and take the same to me. [Here is the Emperor's seal.] " Sixth month in 1853." Trarvslation of certificate of Kayama Yezaiman^ governor of Uraga, verifying the authenticity of the Emperor's letter and seal. ' ' You can rest assured that the high officer who has been accredited by the Emperor of Japan himself, and who consequently comes here to Uraga from Yedo for the purpose of receiving the original and translated letters,, is cf very high rank, equal to that of the Lord Admiral. I do assure that. "KAYAMA YEZAIMAN." The governor, in tlie course of the conference, took care to state that the person appointed by the Emperor had no authority to enter into discussions with the Commodore, but was merely empowered to receive the papers and convey them to his sovereign. He also stated that he had made inquiry as to the practicability of changing the place of meeting, and said that, as a suitable building had already been erected, it would be inconvenient to change. The Commodore was prepared for this reply, and as he could not know whether any treachery was intended or not, he had determined to provide, as far as he could, against every contingency, and had therefore ordered the surveying party to examine the little bay at the head of which the building bad been erected for his reception. The officer sent upon this service promptly performed the duty, and reported that the ships could be brought within gun-shot of the place, where great numbers of the people had been observed employed in the completion of the building, in transporting furniture, and in otherwise preparing for the occasion. The governor offered to accompany a boat to the place appointed for the reception, but this was declined, and he was informed that, as it did not befit the dignity of the Commodore to proceed a long distance in a small boat, the squadron would be removed to a position nearer the building designed for the reception. It was then agreed that the Commodore and his party should leave rtie ships between eight and nine o'clock the next day, (Thursday,) although the Japanese seemed particularly anxious that the interview should take place at an earlier hour, assigning as a reason that the heat of the day might thus be avoided. The question was now asked as to how many officers would accompany the Commodore on the occasion, to which they received the answer that he would be followed by a large retinue, since it was the cu.stom of the United States that when an officer of high rank bears a communication from the President to the sovereign of another country, for him to go with such an attendance as will be respectful to the power to which he is sent. Accordingly, tlie governor was informed that all the officers who could be spared from the squadron would accompany the Commodore, as the greater number would imply the greater compliment. PREPARATIONS IN THE SQUADRON FOR THE RECEPTION. 251 In the course of the conference, the Japanese dignitaries showed their great regard for ceremony hy adverting to various minute points of etiquette in reference to the approaching reception. Tliey announced that all the Japanese officers would he clothed in full official costume, and nob in the dresses worn on ordinary occasions. They seemed to be considerably troubled because they would not be able to seat their visitors, on the morrow, in the same kind of arm chair as that then occupied by themselves in the cabin, and apologized for not having any such. They were no less anxious on the score of the wines and brandies, and begged that they might be excused for not offering tlie same as they had been regaled with, since the country did not possess them. They were told to dismiss their solicitude on these points ; that, as the practice of hospitality, and manners and customs, neces.sarily differed in different countries, it was not reasonable to expect to find American habits prevailing in Japan; and that the Commodore would be satisfied to be seated in the same manner as the dignitary appointed to meet him, wliile the other American officers would content themselves with such seats as were provided for their equals in rank among the Japanese. They then made some inquiries in regard to the minute details of the approaching ceremony, as to whether the Commodore would present the President's letter directly from his own hand into that of the Japanese commissioner, whose name and title, ])y the way, were now announced as Toda-Idzu-no-Kami, First Counsellor of the Empire. It was asked whether the Commodore would immediately return to his sliip after delivering the letter, and also when he would come back to Japan to receive an answer. The Chinese interpreter^ Mr. Williams, showed them a map or plan of Yedo, which they said must have been drawn some seventy years ago, as the capital had changed much since the plan was made, having greatly increased in size, and much improved. They, however, recognized on the plan various conspicuous places, and pointed them out very readily, as if politely willing to gratify the natural curiosity of their companj'. The wliole conference had lasted about two hours and a half, and when the Japanese functionaries rose to depart it was already evening. They left the ship with the usual polite courtesies, bowing, as usual, at every step; and the chief interpreter, Hori Tatznoske, who had evidently a great aptitude for the acquisition of foreign languages, mustered English enough to say very distinctly as he departed, "Want to go home." The Commodore, in preparation for the coming event of the next morning, summoned his captains, from the several vessels of the squadron, on board the flag-ship. Orders were then given that the vessels should be removed, early in the morning, to an anchorage in line, covering the whole bay, in front of the place of reception,* as the Commodore was resolved to be prepared against any possible treachery or duplicity on the part of the people with whom he had to deal, and as the object of the Japanese in the selection of this place of meeting was not very apparent to his mind. It was also ordered that all the officers who could possibly leave the ships .should appear in full uniform, and accompany the Commodore to the reception_, in order that he might present as imposing a retinue as practicable. The surveying boats had been kept busy during the day, completing their observations, and were allowed to proceed with their work without any molestation from the native authorities. The Japanese seemed no less busy in active preparation for the morning's ceremony than the • Marked on the chart as " Reception Bay." ■ibJ. E X P E Ti I T I N T (I J A P A N . Americans. Various government vessels sailed down the baj', and a large fleet of small boats arrived on the Uraga shore from the opposite coast, evidently preparatory to the approaching occasion. A constant sound of hammers, intermingled with the noisy, voices of Japanese laborers, arising as was supposed from the quarter where the building was in progress, disturbed the quiet of tlic night and was prolonged into the morning watches. All was busy preparation for the coming day. Thursday, (July 14) opened witli a sun that was somewhat obscured at early dawn, but which soon came out brightly and dispelled the fogs and clouds which overhung the laud and seemed to give an inauspicious aspect to the occasion. As the atmosphere cleared and the shores were disclosed to view, the steady labors of the Japanese during the night were revealed in the showy effect on the Uraga shore. Ornamental screens of cloth had been so arranged as to give a more distinct prominence, as well as the aj^pearance of greater size to the bastions and forts ; and two tents had been spread among the trees. The screens were stretched tightly in the usual way upon posts of wood, and each interval between the posts was thus distinctly marked, and had, in the distance, the appearance of panelling. Upon these seeming panels were emblazoned the imperial arms, alternating with the device of a scarlet flower bearing large heart-shaped leaves. Flags and streamers, upon which were various designs represented in gay colors, hung from the several angles of the screens, while behind them thronged crowds of soldiers, arrayed in a costume which had not been before observed, and whiclr was supposed to belong to higli occasions only. The main portion of the dress was a species of frock of a dark color, with short skirts, the waists of which were gathered in with a sash, and which was without sleeves, the arms of the wearers being bare. All on board the ships were alert from the earliest hour, making the necessary preparations. Steam was got up and the anchors were weighed that the ships might be moved to a position where their guns would command the place of reception. The sailing vessels, however, because of a calm, were unable to get into position. The oflicers, seamen, and marines who were to accompany the Commodore were selected, and as large a number of them mustered as could possibly be spared from the whole squadron. All, of course, were eager to bear a part in the ceremonies of the day, but all could not possibly go, as a sufficient number must be left to do ships' duty. Many of the oflicers and men were selected by lot, and when the full complement, which amounted to nearly three hundred, was filled up, each one busied himself in getting his person ready for the occasion. The oflicers, as had been ordered, were in full official dress, while the sailors and marines were in their naval and military uniforms of blue and white. Before eight bells in the morning watch had struck, the Susquehanna and Mississippi moved slowly down the liay. Simultaneously with this movement of our ships, six Japanese boats were observed to sail in the same direction, but more within the land. The government striped flag distinguished two of them, showing the presence of some high officials, while the others carried red banners, and were supposed to have on board a retinue or guard of soldiers. On doubling the head-land which separated tlie former anchorage from the bay below, the prepara- tions of the Japanese on the shore came suddenly into view. The land bordering the head of the bay was gay with a long stretch of painted screens of cloth, upon which was emblazoned the arms of the Emperor. Nine tall standards stood in the centre of an immense number of banners of divers lively colors, which were arranged on either side, until the whole formed a crescent of variously tinted flags, which fluttered brightly in the rays of the morning sun. From the tall SHIPS BROUGHT NEAR THE LAND. 253 standards were suspended broad pennons of rich scarlet which swept the ground -nith their- flowing length. On the beach in front of this display were ranged regiments of soldiers, who stood in fixed order, evidently arrayed to give an appearance of martial force, that the Ameri- cans might be duly impressed with tlie military power of the Japanese. As the beholder fixced the liay, he saw on the left of the village of Gori-Hama a straggling group of jieakcd-roofed houses, built between the beach and the base of the high ground which ran in green acclivities behind, and ascended from height to height to the distant mountains. A luxuriant valley or gorge, walled in with richly wooded hills, opened at the head of the bay, and breaking the uniformity of the curve of the shore gave a beautiful variety to the landscape. On the right some hundred Japanese boats, or more, were arranged in parallel lines along the margin of the shore, with a red flag flying at the stern of each. The whole effect, though not startling, was novel and cheerful, and every thing combined to give a pleasing aspect to the picture. The day was bright, with a clear stmlight wliich seemed to give fresh vitality alike to the verdant hill-sides, and the gay banners, and the glittering soldiery. Back from the beach, opposite the centre of the curved shore of the bay, the building, just constructed for the recep- tion, rose in three pyramidal shaped roofs, high above the surrounding houses. It was covered in front by striped cloth, which was extended in screens to either side. It had a new, fresh look, indicative of its recent erection, and with its peaked summits was not unlike, in the distance, a group of very large ricks of grain. Two boats approached as the steamers neared the opening of the bay, and when the anchors were dropped they came alongside the Susquehanna. Kayama Yezaiman, with his two interpreters, came on board, followed immediately by Nagazima Saboi'oske and an officer in attendance, who had come in the second boat. They were duly received at the gangway and conducted to seats on the quarter deck. All were dressed in full official costume, somewhat different from their ordinary garments. Their gowns, though of the usual shape, were much more elaborately adorned. The material was of very rich silk brocade of gay colors, turned up with yellow velvet, and the whole dress was highly embroidered with gold lace in various figures, among which was conspicuously displayed on the back, sleeves, and breast the arms of the wearer. 8aboroske, the sub-governor of Uraga, wore a pair of very broad but very short trowsers, which, when his legs (which was not often the case) stood still and together, looked very much like a slit petticoat, while below, his netlier limbs were partly naked and partly covered by Ijlack woollen socks. Saboroske, in spite of his elaborate toilette and his finery, all bedizened with gold thread, glossy silk, and gay colors, did not produce a very impressive effect; but by his comical appearance provoked mirth rather than admiration. He had, in fact, very much the appearance of an unusually brilliant knave of trumps. A signal was now hoisted from the Susquehanna as a summons for the boats from the other ships, and in the course of half an hour they had all pulled alongside with their various officers sailors, and marines, detailed for the day's ceremonies. The launches and cutters numbered no less than fifteen, and presented quite an imposing array ; and with all on board them, in proper imiform, a picturesque effect was not wanting. Captain Buchanan, having taken his place in his barge, led the way, flanked on either side by the two Japanese boats containing the governor and vice-governor of Uraga with their respective suites ; and these dignitaries acted as masters of ceremony and pointed out the course to the American flotilla. The rest of the ships' boats followed after in order, with the cutters containing the two bands of the steamers, who enlivened the occasion with their cliecrful music. 254 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. The boats skimmed briskly over the smooth waters ; for such was the skill and consequent rapidity of the Japanese scullers that our sturdy oarsmen were put to their mettle to keep up M'ith their guides. When the boats had reached halfway to the shore the thirteen guns of the Susquehanna began to boom away and re-echo among the hills. This announced the departure of the Commodore who^ stepping into his barge, was rowed off to the land. The guides in the Japanese boats pointed to the landing place toward the centre of the curved shore, where a temporary wharf had been built out from the beach by means of bags of sand and straw. The advance boat soon touched the spot, and Captain Buchanan, who commanded the party, sjirang ashore, being the first of the Americans who landed in the Kingdom of Japan. He was immediately followed by Major Zeilin, of the marines. The rest of the boats now pulled in and disembarked their respective loads. The marines (one hundred) marched up the wharf and formed into line on either side, facing the sea ; then came the hundred sailors, who were also ranged in rank and file as they advanced, while the two bands brought up the rear. The whole number of Americans, including sailors, marines, musicians, and officers, amounted to nearly three hundred ; no very formidable array, but still c^uite enough for a peaceful occasion, and composed of very vigorous, able-bodied men, who contrasted strongly with the smaller and more effeminate looking Japanese. These latter had mustered in great force, the amount of which the governor of Uraga stated to be five thousand ; but, seemingly, they far outnumbered that. Their line extended around the whole circuit of the beach, from the further extremity of the village to the abrupt acclivity of the hill which bounded the bay on the northern side ; while an immense number of the soldiers thronged in, behind and under cover of the cloth screens which stretched along the rear. The loose order of this Japanese army did not betoken any very great degree of discipline. The soldiers were tolerably well armed and equipped. Their uniform was very much like the ordinary Japanese dress. Their arms were swords, spears, and match-locks. Those in front were all infantry, archers and lancers ; but large bodies of cavalry were seen behind, somewhat in the distance, as if held in reserve. The horses of these seemed of a fine breed, hardy, of good bottom, and brisk in action ; and these troopers, with their rich caparisons, presented at least a showy cavalcade. Along the base of the rising ground which ascended behind the village, and entirely in the rear of the soldiers, was a large number of the inhabitants, among whom there was quite an assemblage of women, who gazed with intense curiosity, through the openings in the line of the military, upon the stranger visitors from another hemisi^here. On the arrival of the Commodore, his suite of officers formed a double line along the landing place, and as he passed up between, they fell into order behind him. The procession was then formed and took up its march toward the house of reception, the route to which was pointed out by Kayama Yezaiman and his interpreter, Avho preceded the party. The marines led the way, and the sailors following, the Commodore was duly escorted up the beach. The United States flag and the broad pennant were borne by two athletic seamen, who had been selected from the crews of the squadron on account of their stalwart jjroportions. Two boys, dressed for the ceremony, preceded the Commodore, bearing in an envelope of scarlet cloth the boxes which contained his credentials and the President's letter. These documents, of folio size, were beautifully written on vellum, and not folded, but bound in blue silk velvet. Each seal, attached by cords of interwoven gold and silk with pendant gold tassels, was encased in a circular box si$ inches in diameter and three in depth, wrought of pure gold. Each of the MEETING WITH THE JAPANESE COMMISSIONERS. 255 documents together with its seal, was placed in a box of rosewood about a foot long, with lock, hinges, and mountings, all of gold. On either side of the Commodore marched a tall, well-formed negro, who, armed to the teeth, acted as his personal guard. These blacks, selected for the occasion, were two of the best looking fellows of their color that the squadron could furnish. All this, of course, was but for effect. The procession was obliged to make a somewhat circular movement to reach the entrance of the house of reception. This gave a good opportunity for the display of the escort. The building, which was but a short distance from the landing, was soon reached. In front of the entrance were two small brass cannon which were old and apparently of European manufacture; on either side were grouped a rather straggling company of Japanese guards, whose costume was diflerent from that of the other soldiers. Those on the right were dressed in tunics, gathered in at the waist with broad sashes, and in full trowsers of a grey color, the capacious width of which was drawn in at the knees, while their heads were bound with a white cloth in the form of a turban. They were armed with muskets upon which bayonets and flint-locks were observed. The guards on the left were dressed in a rather dingy, brown-colored uniform turned up with yellow, and carried old-fashioned match-locks. The Commodore having been escorted to the door of the house of reception, entered with his suite. The building showed marks of hasty erection, and the timbers and boards of pine wood were numbered, as if they had been fashioned previously and brought to the spot all ready to be put together. The first portion of the structure entered was a kind of tent, principally constructed of painted canvas, upon which in various places the imperial arms were painted. Its area enclosed a space of nearly forty feet square. Beyond this entrance hall was an inner apartment to which a carpeted path led. The floor of the outer room was generally covered with white cloth, but through its centre passed a slip of red-colored carpet, which showed the direction to the interior chamber. This latter was entirely carpeted with red cloth, and was the state apartment of the building where the reception was to take place. Its floor was somewhat raised, like a dais, above the general level, and was handsomely adorned for the occasion. Violet- colored hangings of silk and fine cotton, with the imperial coat of arms embroidered in white, hung from the walls which enclosed the inner room, on three sides, while the front was left open to the antechamber or outer room. As the Commodore and his suite ascended to the reception room, the two dignitaries who were seated on the left arose and bowed, and the Commodore and suite were conducted to the arm chairs which had been provided for them on the right. The interjjreters announced the names and titles of the high Japanese functionaries as Toda-Idzu-no-hami, Toda, prince of Idzu, and Ido-Iwami-ma-kami, Ido, prince of Iwami. They were both men of advanced years, the former apparently about fifty, and the latter some ten or fifteen years older. Prince Toda was the better looking man of the two, and the intellectual expression of his large forehead and amiable look of his regular features contrasted very favorably with the more wrinkled and contracted, and less intelligent face of his associate, the prince of Iwami. They were both very richly dressed, their garments being of heavy silk brocade interwoven with elaborately wrought figures in gold and silver. From the beginning, the two princes had assumed an air of statuesque formality which they preserved during the whole interview, as they never spoke a word, and rose from their seats only at the entrance and exit of the Commodore, when they made a grave and formal bow. Yezaiman 256 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN, and his interpreters acted as masters of ceremony during the occasion. On entering, they took their positions at the upper end of the room, kneeling down beside a large lacquered box of scarlet color, supported by feet, gilt or of brass. For some time after the Commodore and his suite had taken their seats there was a pause of some minutes, not a word being uttered on either side. Tatznoske, the principal interpreter, was the first to break silence, which he did by asking Mr. Portman, the Dutch interpreter, whether the letters were ready for delivery, and stating that the prince Toda was prepared to receive them ; and that the scarlet box at the upper end of the room was prepared as the receptacle for them. The Commodore, upon this being communicated to him, beckoned to the boys who stood in the lower hall to advance, when they immediately obeyed his summons and came forward, bearing the handsome boxes which contained the President's letter and other documents. The two stalwart negroes followed immediately in rear of the boys, and marching up to tlie scarlet receptacle, received the boxes from the hands of the bearers, opened them, took out the letters and, displaying the writing and seals, laid them upon the lid of the Japanese ■box — all in perfect silence. The President's letter, the Commodore's letter of credence, and two communications from the Commodore to the Emperor, are here given. A third letter from him has already been presented on a previous page. All these, however, accompanied the letter from the President and were delivered at the same time with it. JIXLLARD FILLMORE, PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, TO HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY, THE EMPEROR OP JAPAN. Great and good Friend : I send you this public letter by Commodore Matthew C. Perry, an officer of the highest rank in the navy of the United States, and commander of the squadron now visiting your imperial majesty's dominions. I have directed Commodore Perry to assure your imperial majesty that I entertain the kindest feelings toward your majesty's person and government, and that I have no other object in sending him to Japan but to propose to your imperial majesty that the United States and Japan should live in friendship and have commercial intercourse with each other. The Constitution and laws of the United States forbid all interference with the religious or political concerns of other nations. I have particularly charged Commodore Perry to abstain from every act which could possibly disturb the tranquility of your imperial majesty's dominions. The United States of America reach from ocean to ocean, and our Territory of Oregon and State of California lie directly opposite to the dominions of your imperial majesty. Our steamships can go from California to Japan in eighteen days. Our great State of California produces about sixty millions of dollars in gold every year, besides silver, quicksilver, precious stones, and many other valuable articles. Japan is also a rich and fertile country, and produces many very valuable articles. Your imperial majesty's subjects are skilled in many of the arts. I am desirous that our two countries should trade with each other, for the benefit both of Japan and the United States. We know that the ancient laws of your imperial majesty's government do not allow of foreign trade, except with the Chinese and the Dutch ; but as the state of the world changes and new governments are formed, it seems to be wise, from time to time, to make new laws. There was a time when the ancient laws of your imperial majesty's government were first made. president's letter to the emperor. 257 About the same time America^ which is sometimes called the New World, was first discovered and settled by the Europeans. For a long time there were hut a few people, and they were poor. They have now become quite numerous ; their commerce is very extensive ; and they think that if your imperial majesty were so far to change the ancient laws as to allow a free trade between the two countries it would be extremely beneficial to both. If your imperial majesty is not satisfied that it would be safe altogether to abrogate the ancient laws which forbid foreign trade, they might be suspended for five or ten years, so as to try the exjieriment. If it does not prove as beneficial as was hoped, the ancient laws can be restored. The United States often limit their treaties with foreign States to a few years, and then renew them or not, as they please. I have directed Commodore Perry to mention another thing to your imperial majesty. Many of our ships pass every year from California to China ; and great numbers of our people pursue tlie whale fishery near the shores of Japan. It sometimes happens^ in stormy weather, that one of our ships is wrecked on your imperial majesty's shores. In all such cases we ask, and expect, that our unfortunate people should be treated with kindness, and that their property should be protected, till we can send a vessel and bring them away. We are very much in earnest in this. Commodore Perry is also directed by me to represent to your imperial majesty that we understand there is a great abundance of coal and jjrovisions in the Empire of Japan. Our steamships, in crossing the great ocean, burn a great deal of coal, and it is not convenient to bring it all the way from America. We wish that our steamships and other vessels should be allowed to stop in Japan and supply themselves with coal, provisions, and water. They will pay for them in money, or anything else your imperial majesty's subjects may prefer ; and we request your imperial majesty to apj)oint a convenient port, in the southern part of the Empire, where our vessels may stop for this purpose. We are very desirous of this. These are the only objects for which I have sent Commodore Perry^ with a powerful squadron, to pay a visit to your imperial majesty's renowned city of Tedo : friendship, commerce, a sujDply of coal and provisions, and protection for our shipwrecked people. We have directed Commodore Perry to beg your imperial majesty's acceptance of a few presents. They are of no great value in themselves ; hut some of them may serve as specimens of the articles manufactured in the United States, and they are intended as tokens of our sincere and respectful friendship. May the Almighty have your imperial majesty in His great and holy keeping ! In witness whereof, I have caused the great seal of the United States to be hereunto affixed, and have subscribed the same with my name, at the city of Washington, in America, the seat of my government, on the thirteenth day of the month of November, in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty-two. [Seal attached.] Tour good friend, MILLARD FILLMORE. By the President : EDWARD EVERETT, Secretary of State. 33 J 258 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Commodore Perry to the Emperor. United States Steam Frigate Susquehanna, Off the coast of Japan, July 1, 1853. The undersigned, commander-in-chief of all the naval forces of the United States of America stationed in the East India, China and Japan seas, has been sent by his government to this country, on a friendly mission, with ample powers to negotiate with the government of Japan, touching certain matters which have been fully set forth in the letter of the President of the United States, copies of which, together with copies of the letter of credence of the undersigned, in the English, Dutch, and Chinese languages, are herewith transmitted. The original of the President's letter, and of the letter of credence, prepared in a manner suited to the exalted station of your imperial majesty, will be presented by the undersigned in person, when it may please your majesty to appoint a day for his reception. The undersigned has been commanded to state that the President entertains the most friendly feelings toward Japan, but has been surprised and grieved to learn that when any of the people of the United States go, of their own accord, or are thrown by the perils of the sea, within the dominions of your imperial majesty, tliey are treated as if they were your worst enemies. The undersigned refers to the cases of the American ships Morrison, Lagoda, and Lawrence. With the Americans, as indeed with all Christian people, it is considered a sacred duty to receive with kindness, and to succor and protect all, of whatever nation, who may be cast upon their shores, and such has been the course of the Americans with respect to all Japanese subjects who have fallen under their protection. The government of the United States desires to obtain from that of Japan some positive assurance that persons who may hereafter be shipwrecked on the coast of Japan, or driven by stress of weather into her ports, shall be treated with humanity. The undersigned is commanded to explain to the Japanese that the United States are connected with no government in Europe, and that their laws do not interfere with the religion of their own citizens, much less with that of other nations. That they inhabit a great country which lies directly between Japan and Europe, and which was discovered by the nations of Europe about the same time that Japan herself was first visited by Europeans ; that the portion of the American continent lying nearest to Europe was first settled by emigrants from that part of the world ; that its population has rapidly spread through the country, until it has reached the shores of the Pacific ocean ; that we have now large cities, from which, with the aid of steam-vessels, we can reach Japan in eighteen or twenty days; that our commerce with all this region of the globe is rapidly increasing, and the Japan seas will soon be covered with our vessels. Therefore, as the United States and Japan are becoming every day nearer and nearer to each other, the President desires to live in peace and friendship with your imperial majesty, but no friendship can long exist, unless Japan ceases to act toward Americans as if they were her enemies. However wise this policy may originally have been, it is unwise and impracticable now that the intercourse between the two countries is so much more easy and rapid than it formerly was. The undersigned holds out all these arguments in the hope that the Japanese government commodore's letters to the emperor. 259 ■will see the necessity of averting unfriendly collision between the two nations, by responding favorably to the joropositions of amity, which are now made in all sincerity. Many of the large ships-of-war destined to visit Jajnxn have not yet arrived in these seas, though they are hourly expected; and the undersigned, as an evidence of his friendly intentions, has brought but four of the smaller ones, designing, should it become necessary, to return to Yedo in the ensuing spring with a much larger force. But it is expected that the government of your imperial majesty will render such return unnecessary, by acceding at once to the very reasonable and pacific overtures contained in the President's letter, and which will be further explained by the undersigned on the first fitting occasion. With the most profound respect for your imperial majesty, and entertaining a sincere hope that you may long live to enjoy health and happiness, the undersigned subscribes himself, M. C. PERKY, * Commander-in-cJdef of the United States Naval Forces in tJie East India, China, and Japan seas* To His Impekial Majesty, the Emperor of Japan. Commodore Perry to the Emperor. " United States Steam Frigate Susquehanna, " Uraga, Yedo Bay, July 14, 1853. "It having been represented to the undersigned that the propositions submitted through him to the government of Japan are of so much importance, and involve so many momentous questions, that much time will be required to deliberate and decide upon their several bearings : "The undersigned, in consideration thereof, declares himself willing to await a reply to these propositions until his return to Yedo Bay in the ensuing spring, when he confidently hopes that all matters will be amicably arranged, and to the satisfaction of the two nations. "With profound resjiect, "M. C. PERRY, "Commander-in-chief of the United States Naval Forces "in the East India, China, and Japan seas. "To His Imperial Majesty, "the Emperor of Japan." Letter of credence to Commodore Perry. MILLARD FILLMORE, PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, TO HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY THE EJIPEROR of JAPAN. Reposing special trust and confidence in the integrity, prudence, and ability of Matthew C. Perry, a captain in the navy of the United States, I have invested him with full power, for and in the name of the said United States, to meet and confer with any person or persons furnished with like powers on the part of your imperial majesty, and with him or them to negotiate, * It should be remarked that the Commodore framed this letter on his letter of instructions from the authorities of the United States. 260 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. conclude, and sign a convention or conventions, treaty or treaties, of and concerning tlie friend- ship, commerce, and navigation of the two countries ; and all matters and subjects connected therewith which may be interesting to the two nations, submitting the same to the President of the United States for his final ratification, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate of the United States. In testimony whereof, I have caused the seal of the United States to be hereunto affixed. Given under my hand, at the city of Washington, the thirteenth day of November, in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, and of the independence of the United States of America the seventy-seventh. MILLAED FILLMORE. By the President : EDWAED EVERETT. [Seal attached.] Secretary of State. Accompanying the letters were translations of the same into the Chinese and Dutch languages. After the documents had been laid upon the lid of the imperial box, made as their receptacle, Mr. Portman, Dutch interpreter, by the Commodore's direction, indicated to Tatznoske, the Japanese interpreter, the characters of the various documents, upon which Tatz- noske and Keyama Tezaimen, still kneeling, both bowed their heads. The latter, now rising, approaclied the Prince of Iwami, and prostrating himself on his knees before him, received from his hands a roll of papers, with which lie crossed over to the Commodore, and again falling upon his knees, delivered it to him. The Dutch interpreter now asked "what those papers were?" to which it was answered, "they are the imperial receipt." The translation of it is as follows: [Translation of receipt given uy the Princes of Idzu and Iwami to Commodore Perry.] "The letter of the President of the United States of North America, and copy, are hereby received and delivered to the Emperor. Many times it has been communicated that business relating to foreign countries cannot be transacted here in Uraga, but in Nagasaki. Now it has been observed that the Admiral, in his quality of ambassador of the President, would be insulted by it ; the justice of this has been acknowledged ; consequently, the above mentioned letter is hereby received, in opposition to the Japanese law. "Because the place is not designed to treat of anything from foreigners, so neither can con- ference nor entertainment take iilace. The letter being received you will leave here." [Here follow fac similes of signatures in Japanese.] "The nixtii of the sixth month." The above is a literal translation from the Dutch, in which language the conferences were held, and into which the receipt of the chief counsellors, the princes of Idzu and Iwami, was, doubtless, badly translated from the Japanese by their interpreter. The following would probably be the correct translation from the Japanese: "The letter of the President of the United States of North America, and copy, are hereby eceived, and will be delivered to the Emperor. ' ' It has been many times intimated that business relating to foreign countries cannot be transacted here in Uraga, but at Nagasaki ; nevertheless, as it has been observed that the Admiral, in his quality of ambassador of the President, would feel himself insulted by a refusal to receive the letter at this place, the justice of which has been acknowledged, the above mentioned letter is hereby received, in opposition to the Japanese law. TERMINATION OF THE CONFERENCE. 261 "As this is not a place wherein to negotiate with foreigners, so neither can conferences nor entertainment be held. Therefore, as the letter has been received you can depart." After a silence of some few minutes, the Commodore directed his interpreters to inform the Japanese that he would leave, with the squadron, for Lew Chew and Canton in two or three days, and to offer to the government his services, if it wished to send any dis])atches or messages to those places. The Commodore also stated that it was his intention to return to Japan in the approaching spring, jierhaps in April or May. Tatznoske then asked the Dutch interpreter to repeat what he had said about the Commodore's leaving and returniuL'', which he did, using tlie same words as before. Then the question was asked " whether the Commodore would return with all four vessels?" " All of them," answered the Commodore, " and jirobably more, as these are only a portion of the squadron." Allusion had been made to the revolution in China, and the interpreter asked its cause, without however translating to the Japanese princes, to which the Commodore dictated the reply, that " it was on account of the government." Yezaimen and Tatznoske now bowed, and, rising from their knees, drew the fastenings around the scarlet box, and informing the Commodore's interpreter that there was nothing more to be done, passed out of the apartment, bowing to those on either side as they went. The Commodore now rose to take leave, and, as he departed, the two princes, still preserving absolute silence, also arose and stood until the strangers had passed from their presence. The Commodore and his suite were detained a short time at the entrance of the building waiting for their barge, whereupon Yezaimen and his interpreter returned and asked some of the party what they were waiting for; to which they received the reply, "For the Commodore's boat." Nothing further was said. The whole interview had not occupied more than from twenty to thirty minutes, and had been conducted with the greatest formality, though with the most perfect courtesy in every respect. The procession re-formed as before, and the Commodore was escorted to his barge, and, embarking, was rowed off toward his ship, followed by the other American and the two Japanese boats which contained the governor of Uraga and his attendants, the bands meanwhile playing our national airs with great spirit as the boats pulled off to the shijis. While there was some little delay in embarking all the party, in consequence of the smallness of the landing place, which was now flanked by some sixty or seventy Japanese government boats, the soldiers took occasion to crowd in from various parts of the shore, either to satisfy their curiosity, or to show a more formidable front ; and it must be confessed that, had such been the disposition of the Japanese, there would have been no diificultyj with their large force, in completely hemming in the Americans. 262 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. CHAPTER XIV. CONCESSIONS OF THE JAPANESE. RELAXATION OF THEIR RESTRICTIVE LAWS. SATISFACTION OF BOTH JAPANESE AND AMERICANS AT THE RESULT OF THE VISIT ON SHORE AND DELIVERY OF THE PRESIDENT'S LETTER. VISIT OF KEYAMA YEZAIMEN TO TBE SHIPS. IMPUDENCE OF THE INTERPRETER 5AB0ROSKE. THE StlUADRON GOES FURTHER UP THE BAY TOWARD THE CAPITAL. — ' POLICY OF THIS MOVEMENT. ALARM OF THE JAPANESE GRADUALLY QUIETED. BEAUTIFUL SCENERY UP THE BAY. SURVEY OP THE BAY CONTINUED. CONVIVIALITY ON BOARD. SURVEYING BOATS ENTER A SMALL RIVER. CORDIAL GREETING OF TH8 INHABITANTS. — CROWD DISPERSED BY A JAPANESE OFFICIAL. COMMODORE TRANSFERS HIS PENNANT FROM THE SUSQUEHANNA TO THE MISSISSIPPI. THE LAST-NAMED VESSEL GOES UP IN SIGHT OF THE SHIPPING PLACE OF YEDO. SINAGAWA. YEDO ABOUT TEN MILES DISTANT FROM THE POINT WHERE THE SHIPS TURNED ABOUT. GOOD DEPTH OF WATER IN YEDO BAT, PROBABLY ALMOST UP TO THE CITY. THE BAY PRETTY THOROUGHLY EXPLORED AND SOUNDED BY THE SURVEYING PARTIES. INTERCHANGE OF PRESENTS WITH THE JAPANESE OFFICERS. AVOWED SORROW OF JAPANESE OFFICIALS ON BIDDING FAREWELL TO THE AMERICANS. COMMODORe's REASONS FOR NOT WAITING FOR A REPLY TO THE PRESIDENT'S LETTER. LEAVES YEDO BAY DECLARING HIS INTENTION TO RETURN IN THE ENSUING SPRING. THE SARATOGA SENT TO SHANGHAI TO LOOK AFTER AMERICAN INTERESTS. THE PLYMOUTH ORDERED TO LEW CHEW. OHO-SIMA. SHIPS ENCOUNTER A STORM. GENERAL RESULTS OF THE FIRST VISIT OF THE SQUADRON TO THE BAY OF YEDO. HE Commodore had, previous to setting out on the expedition ashore, placed his two steamers in such a position as to command the little hay, and had given orders that the decks should he cleared and everything got ready for action. Howitzers were placed in hoats [alongside, in readiness to he dispatched at a moment's I notice, in case any trouble should occur on land, and [the ship's guns were prepared to send their halls and , shells in showers upon all the line of Japanese troops ' which thronged the shore, had they commenced hostil- ities. There was, however, no serious apprehension felt of any warlike termination to the ceremonies of the day, although every precaution was properly taken to provide against the least untoward occurrence. When the reception was over, there was a general feeling of satisfaction on the part of every man in the squadron at the successful result. Judged hy the ordinary relations of civilized nations, there was not much ground for congratulation, hut when considered in refer- ence to the exclusive policy of Japan, there was every reason for a proud self-satisfaction on the part of each American who had shared in the event of the day. The justice of the Commodore's demand to he received as befitted the envoy of a great nation, was acknowledged in the remarkable document received from the imperial government, and confirmed in the most impressive manner by the proceedings of the day, when two of the chief COMMODORE PREPARES TO ASCEND THE BAT. 263 princes of the Empire, acting as the immediate representatives of the highest authority, had so far raised the iron-like mask of Japanese reserve as to show themselves face to face to the Americans, and receive from the hands of an American ambassador an urgent invitation to share in the comity of nations. "As it has been observed tliat the Admiral, in his quality of ambassador of the President, would feel himself insulted by a refusal to receive the letter at this place, the justice of which has been acknowledged, the above mentioned letter is hereby received in opposition to the Japanese laws." Such are the remarkable words of the Japanese docu- ment, and thus, in this striking phrase, " iii opijosition to the Japanese laios," has Japan herself emphatically recorded the American triumph, as slie has, perliaps, foretold her own regenera- tion. The vigorous grasp of the hand of America which was proffered in a friendly spirit, but thrust forward with an energy that jiroved the power to strike, as well as the disposition to embrace, had stirred Japanese isolation into a sensibility of its relationship to the rest of the world. Japan had broken its own code of selfish exclusiveness to obey the universal law of hospitality. The concession to the demands of the Commodore, though great for the Jaj^anese, was yet very far from all that was to be reasonably demanded on the score of the usual comity of nations. The communication from the government of Japan, remarkable as it was for its breaking through the Japanese law of exclusion, was still marked with traces of their restrictive policy, and contained these words: "Therefore, as the letter has been received, you can depart." The Commodore, to show how little he regarded the order of the princes to depart, had no sooner reached his ship, after the interview on shore, than he ordered the whole squadron to get under way. This was not to leave the bay, as the princes doubtless expected, but to go higher up. The Commodore determined to examine the channel toward Yedo, being satisfied that the employment of so large a force in surveying service, and in so near a neighborhood to the capital, would produce a decided influence upon the pride and conceit of the government, and cause a more favorable consideration of the President's letter. The Governor of Uraga, Yezaimen, and Saboroske, with the interpreters, had accompanied the party on the return to the ships, and, on going on board of the Susquehanna, were received by the captains and the Commodore's aid in the upper cabin, where the following conversation ensued : Tezaimen. We are happy to state that everything has passed off well and favorably. Captain Buchanan. We hope that Japan and the United States will always be friends. Yezaimen. When do you intend to go away? Capt. B. In the course of two or three days. The Commodore is going to take a sail up the bay to see the anchorage. He does not like his first place of anchorage. Yezaimen. Will you anchor there? Capt. B. Only for two or three days, until we get ready to go to sea. Yezaimen. We desire to take leave officially to-day, that it may not be necessary for us to return before you go. Capit. B. We hope to have the pleasure of seeing you again before many months. Commodore Perry did not bring this time with him the presents intended for the Emperor of Japan, but when he comes again he will bring them. Among them is a steara engine or locomotive, for railroads. lAeut. Contee. There is also among them a telegraph long enough to reach from Uraga to Yedo, by means of which you can speak from one place to another in a single second. 264 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. Yezaimen. How many miles can you make in an hour with your steam engine ? Lieut. C. Eight Japanese or thirteen American miles, with steam only and without wind. In the United States, there are some very light steamers on the river which can go eighteen miles an hour. Yezaimen. Where were steamers first invented ? Lieut. C. In America : an American named Fulton first invented them in New York. Yezaimen having heen urged to remain and ohserve the engine in motion, his curiosity prompted him to do so, and his hoat and that of Saboroske being taken in tow, these two officials and their interpreters, while the anchors were weighing and the steamers were proceeding to their old anchorage, partook freely of the hospitalities of the officers, and busied themselves in gratifying their natural desire of seeing all that was to be seen on board the ship. These Japanese officials, evincing as they always did a certain reserved curiosity, yet showed an intelli'^ent interest in the structure of the steamer and all that pertained to its appointments. While the engines were in motion they minutely inspected every part, but exhibited no fear, nor any of that startled surprise that would be expected of those who were entirely ignorant of its mechanism. They seemed to acquire rapidly some insight into the nature of steam, and into the mode with which it was applied to put into action the great engine and move by its power the wheels of the steamers. Tlieir questions were of the most intelligent character, and they asked ao-ain by whom steamers were first discovered, and to what speed they could be propelled through the water. They examined with marked interest various engravings which were shown them of American river and sea steam vessels, and also some views of New York, New Orleans, and San Francisco, which happened to be on board. Yezaimen^ having observed the revolvers in the belts of some of the American officers, expressed a desire to examine the construction and see one let oif. His curiosity was accordingly gratified by one of the captains, who fired off a revolver from the qiiarter deck, and he watched the repeated discharges of the six barrels with very evident astonishment but no alarm. There was a marked contrast observed between the bearing of the two officials. While Yezaimen always exhibited a modest reserve of manner, Saboroske was bold and pushing. The former evinced an intelligent curiosity, but the latter showed an importunate inquisitiveness. Yezaimen was always the quiet, courteous, and reserved gentleman, but Saboroske was perpetually bustling, rude^ and intrusive. The latter was continually peering his bold and impudent face into every nook and corner, whether invited or not, and appeared more desirous of acting the spy than of gratifying the interest of a liberal curiosity. A shrill blast of the steam whistle now announced the arrival of the steamers ofi" Uraga, and startled the Japanese to their feet, as the time of their departure had arrived. The engines were stopped for a few minutes while the Japanese boats were brought alongside from the stern, where they had been in tow. Yezaimen and his party were evidently disappointed that their visit was brought so soon to a close, and expressed some reluctance at leaving before they had fully gratified their curiosity. The whole squadron now got in position, the steamers having been joined by the two sloops- of-war, the Plymouth and Saratoga, and all four ships presented a formidable array as they stood ofi" in a line abreast of each other and advanced with running lines of soundings up the bay. The course was now directed toward the eastern shore, leaving on the west the promontory of Uraga and a beautiful bay beyond, which disclosed to the view its surrounding hills of the ASCENT OF THE BAY OF YEDO. 265 ricliest verdure with numerous villages at their base, as the squadron moved along in a diagonal line. As the land on the west was approached to within three miles, it was seen to rise gradually from the undulating slopes, near the waters of the hay, to steep mountains in the distance. Fertile fields, expanding parks, bounded with plantations, and varied here and there with carefully arranged clumps of trees of advanced but vigorous growth, terraces lifting their smooth surfaces one above the other, in the richest and greenest of verdure, and retired groves of deep shade, showed upon the acclivities of tlie nearer range of hills all the marks of a long and most perfect cultivation, and presented a beauty of landscape unrivalled even by the garden-like scenery of England when clothed in the fresh charms of a verdant spring. The distant hills were rugged and bare, and apparently witliout cultivation, but gave, by their contrasting barrenness and rudeness of aspect, a heightened beauty to the rich culture of the land which gradually undulated from their base to the waters of the bay. As the squadron advanced toward the north the shore became more level, and a stretch of sand was observed to extend for three or four miles into the bay, and to arise near its termination into two considerable elevations, upon which forts with ten guns each were erected, and there the Japanese troops had been seen to gather. The ships now directed their course toward the proposed place for anchoring, which had been surveyed by Lieutenant Bent on the previous surveying expedition. Keeping in view a bold headland, which bounded the upper part of the bay, to which the squadron was tending, the ships steered toward the western shore, and finally dropjwd their anchors in the afternoon in a place which the Commodore then named the American Anchorage. This was about ten miles distant from the first anchorage off Uraga, and a mile and a half from the shore, in a depth of water which gave full thirteen fathoms. Within the bay in which the ships were anchored were two beautiful islands, covered with a green growtli of herbage and scattered groves. The coast which bounded the anchorage was composed of a succession of steep cliffs of white rock, the summits of which were covered with a fertile soil, which produced a rich vegetation that hung over from above in heavy festoons of green shrubbery and trailing vines and plants, while the sea had washed the base of the cliffs here and there into caverns where the water flowed in and out. The headland at the north was about six miles distant and descended in green sloj^es to the bay, and from the thick growth of trees which covered them a white smoke was observed to wind through the close foliage, and was supposed to indicate the presence of some encampment. A great number of the usual government boats, distinguished by red banners, lined a long stretch of the shore of nearly a mile in length, and the fortresses had extended their usual cotton cloth batteries or screens, which were now, on longer experience, supposed to be rather military emblems, like the flag and banners, than sham exhibitions of force and intended evidences of hostility. Immediately on anchoring the Commodore ordered the boats out upon a surveying expedition, and although this seemed to bring out the soldiers in numbers about the battery which lay opposite to the ships, as well as some of the government boats which were moored along the shore, there was no direct interference with the surveying party. The Japanese boats, however, moved backward and forward, as if watching the movement of the ship's cutters, but seemed indisposed to do more than show themselves in force and on the alert. Soon, however, Tezaimen, with his interpreters, were seen to approach the Susquehanna, in their usual boat, which the Japanese oajsmen were sculling with all their might, and at once 34 J 266 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. dashed up alongside the steamer. Tezaimen and his companions hurried up the companion way, and were evidently much ruffled, and in a state of great anxiety. They were at once ushered into the cabin, where they were received as usual by the captains, who were coolly prepared to listen to what they had to say. Tatznoske at once burst out with the question, " Why do your ships anchor here ?" He was answered that as they had been already informed by the Commodore, the ships had advanced up the bay in order to obtain a more secure anchorage. The interpreter then stated that that part of the Japanese waters had always been hitherto respected by strangers, and that the squadron must not go any further. He then asted whether the Commodore intended to go beyond, and if not, how long he intended to remain where he then was ? He was told that the Commodore intended to remain three or four days longer for the purpose of finding out a good anchorage, as he was to return in the ensuing spring with many more shijis and men, and that it was desirable that the most secure place should be found for mooring his vessels, and that for this purpose it was necessary to survey the bay. Uraga had been tried, but it was found insecure, as the water was rough, and the winds occasionally blew there with great force. Upon the interpreter Tatznoske asserting that the Commodore had promised to leave the bay immediately on the reception of the President's letter by the princes, he was reminded that the Commodore had only promised to leave the shore, but had distinctly stated that it was his intention to advance further up the bay with his ships. The interpreter continued by declaring that if the surveying boats should approach any nearer to the land that there would be trouble, as the people were already under considerable excitement from observing the close neighborhood of the strangers. He was then told that there was no need for any anxiety, as the boats should not land, and the Americans would not interfere with the Japanese unless they were first disturbed by them. Yezaimen still persisted through his interpreters upon the squadron leaving, and courteously expressed his assurance that the Japanese government was favorably disposed toward the Americans, and that as the President's letter had been received it would undoubtedly be considered with a favorable disposition. He concluded by expressing the hope that on the next visit of the Commodore he would not advance any further up the bay than Uraga, as that place oifered every convenience for the proposed negotiation. Yezaimen was now assured that the Americans came as friends, and that therefore it was quite unreasonable that any opposition should be made to their ships seeking a suitable anchorage. They were moreover told that it was the custom in the United States to afford every facility to foreigners in that respect, and that if the Japanese came to the United States they would find the navigable waters of the country free to them, and that they would not be debarred even from the rich gold fields of California. Yezaimen had nothing more to say, and, whether persuaded or not, had the courtesy to refrain from pushing his demands any further. He and his companions, upon being invited to partake of some refreshments, readily complied, and were soon engaged in discussing with a vigorous appetite the collation that was spread before them. Another government boat was at this juncture announced as being alongside, when immediately the Japanese ofiicials who were on board of it were invited to share in the hospitalities of the cabin. Quite a convivial scene ensued, in the course of which abundant supplies of ham, ship's biscuit, and other stores, washed down by plentiful draughts of whiskey, quickly disappeared. The cheer seemed to be much relished, and the interpreters were so exceedingly delighted that they desired to bear away some substantial mementos of the pleasant feast, and, accordingly, not satisfied with well- INTERCOURSE WITH INHABITANTS ON SHORE. 267 filled paunches, they carried ofi"in tlieir capacious sleeves pieces of the bread and ham, where- with to refresh their memories and their future appetites. As the night approached, the Japanese took their departure, full of courteous expressions of satisfaction at the hospitality of the ships. The following morning (July 15th) a surveying party was again, at a very early hour, dispatched by the Commodore to sound further up the bay. Three of the boats pulled round to the other side of the battery which shut out a part of the country inland from the view of those on board ship. Here they found an inlet and a beautiful surrounding country watered by a stream, upon the fertile borders of which were groujied a great number of picturesque Japanese villages, while fertile fields and highly cultivated gardens stretched out beyond them. The officers ordered their boats up tlie river and were met as they advanced by crowds of the inhabitants, gathering upon the shores to satisfy their curiosity in a look at the strangers. Some of the people greeted the boats with every indication of welcome, and readily supplied those on board with water and some excelleni peaches. There were a few government boats lying near, and the officers on board gladly welcomed our people to a visit, in the course of which such a mutual friendliness sprung up that the Americans joined the Japanese in a social pipe or two of tobacco. Our officers, in returu for their hospitable entertainment, amused their newly-found hosts with an exhibition of their revolvers and fired them oft', to the intense sur- prise and delight of the Japanese. In the midst of this enjoyment of social intercourse^, where the greatest harmony prevailed, and in which the Japanese seemed remarkably genial in manner and expansive in hospitality, down came some severe official and beckoned oft' his countrymen, who rapidly scattered away, like so many children caught in the very act of some awful disobedience. On the return of the ships' boats from sounding, all the officers and men were in raptures with the kindly disposition of the Japanese and the beauty of their country. In fact, nothing could be more picturesque than the landscapes wherever the eye was directed, and even those on board ship never tired of looking at the surrounding shores. The high cultivation of the land everywhere, the deep, rich green of all the vegetation, the innumerable thrifty villages embowered in groves of trees at the heads of the inlets which broke the uniformity of the bay, and the rivulets flowing down the green slopes of the hills and calmly winding through the meadows, combined to present a scene of beauty, abundance, and happiness, which every one delighted to contemplate. In the course of the afternoon the Commodore transferred his pennant from the Susquehanna to the Mississippi. He then proceeded some ten miles further up the bay toward Yedo, and reached a point estimated to be distant twenty miles from the anchorage at Uraga. The port or shipping place of Yedo was distinctly seen on the southern side of the capital, but not the capital itself, which, being composed of low houses, like those of China, was completely hidden behind a projecting point, beyond which the bay took an easterly direction, and was bounded by a shore of low alluvial land. The town observed was probably Sinagawa, a suburb of Yedo. On the western side of the bay a view was obtained of Kanagawa and Konazaki, two populous places. Some four miles beyond the extreme point reached by the Mississippi there was a cape formed by a projecting point of land, and marked by a white tower, which resembled in appearance a light-house ; it was some three or four miles still further where the shipping and supposed port of Yedo appeared to the view. The Commodore thus supposed that he had taken his ship within ten miles of Yedo, and as the lead gave twenty fathoms where he put about he 268 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. concluded tliat lie could readily have gone still higher up. He was apprehensive, however, of causing too much alarm, and thus throwing some obstacle in the way of a favorable reception at court of the President's letter, that had only been delivered the day before, and which was probably then under consideration. The Commodore thus thinking that he had done enough, without going further, caused the ship to rejoin the squadron at the "American Anchorage." During the passage of the Mississippi, there was no show of opposition to her movements, although there was a considerable display of troops about the batteries, loosely grouped, as if gathered for curiosity and not for martial manifestation, and an occasional government boat put out from the shore with the apparent design of watching the steamer. While the Commodore was absent on his expedition up the bay, Yezaimen and his interpreters came alongside the Susquehanna, bringing some boxes containing presents, but neither they nor their presents were received, as the Commodore had given orders that no one from the shore should be admitted on board the ship without his special permission. Upon being told this, the Japanese first expressed a wish to wait, but finally pushed ofi", saying that they would return another time. All the boats which could be spared from the several ships, amounting to twelve, were busily engasred during the whole dav in surveying the western shore of the bav above Uraga. At daylight next morning (Saturday, 16th July,) the ships were moved to a bay about five miles from Uraga, which the Commodore named "Susquehanna Bay," and in the survey of which the boats were kept diligently occupied, and without interference or, in fact, any expressed objection. The squadron was now anchored much closer to the shore than before, at a distance of less than a mile, and from the ship's deck a distant view was had of the land on the west, which was singularly green with vegetation and beautiful in aspect. The present anchorage was completely land-locked. On one side was the charming little island named "Perry Island," by Lieutenant Bent, who was in command of the surveying party which first examined its neighboring waters. Out of the trees which grew to the summit of the rising land peered, with a suspicious look, a Japanese battery. Below, some miles to the south, the promontory which extends out into the bay beyond Uraga closed in the ships which were moored so far under the cover of its lofty flank, that the view of the eastern shore for a considerable extent was entirely blotted out. Two villages, of the name of Orsa and Togirasaki, nestled among the trees within the curve of the bay, and presented to the eye a charming aspect of repose and rural delight. Yezaimen, the governor of Uraga, was again alongside the Susquehanna before she had anchored. He came to renew his assurance of the favorable reception of the President's letter, and as nothing was said now of sending the answer to Nagasaki, it seemed that the nearer the Commodore approached the imperial city of the Japanese the more conciliating and friendly they became. The governor had brought with him some presents, consisting of some pieces o* silk, some fans, lacquered tea-cups and tobacco pipes. These objects were interesting as specimens of Japanese manufacture, and though not very valuable, were cr